Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - schwinn varsity - worth building to SS?

so I came across an abandonned carcass of a schwinn varsity today. I assume some of you are probably familiar with these old bikes. I'd guess this particular one might date back to the easly 70s (just a guess). It looked like someone had stolen it (it still has a kryptonite U lock on it) and then left it for dead. The wheels, stem, bars, seatpost, BB and cranks were all gone. It looked like about my saize, so I grabbed it.
Once I got it home, I took the brakes and cables off, got the kickstand off (though there is still a big housing welded to the chainstays just behind the BB shell), took off the old chain and derailleur and gave it a quick wipe down.
This is by no means a light bike. Nor does it have remotely tight geometry (the rear triangle is pretty long), but it has a certain potential. I think it might make a decent SS cruiser. it may be too heavy to rided fixed... i dont know.
I'm debating whether or not to use this as my first build-up project... is it worthwhile?
if I do decide to have a go at it, I need to figure out a few things:

1. The BB shell is larger than my 2 bikes. It seems to be roughly 45mm wide (diameter) What sort of BB do I need to install? Actually, I just looked again and it there are no threads inside the BB shell... I'm confused by this. Do I need to install a threaded BB shell AND actual BB inside this wide housing?

2. How do I get the cable guides off? Do I have to torch them or can I get them off with a hacksaw/file? And if I DO need to torch them, can I use a regular (butane?) torch that I can buy at a hardware store? (pardon my ignorance - I've obviously never done this before)

3. How do I get this u lock off the frame? I tried a bic pen, but I"ve never been able to get that to work. what are the other methods?

4. the paint on this beast was once a cool, metallic green but it is scratched, chipped and rusted to hell. Should I strip the paint and sand it and then repaint it? what do I need to use to strip the paint?

if I decide to follow through, I'll post some pics of my progress. thanks in advance.

Matt

Yuck. Sounds like it's going to be more effort (and expense) than it's worth. But in order:

1. It may take a 1-piece American-style crank. Harris Cyclery has them (and associated BB parts) or you can get a kit that turns it into a standard 3-piece English compatible setup.

2. You can file or hack them off. Probably torch too since they're just brazed on, but I stay away from fire to avoid burning my hand off.

3. I would try to get cozy with the Bic again. Failing that, buy or rent an angle grinder. Be sure to grind it off outside or in a designated shop area as it will leave little metal filings EVERYWHERE and they'll find their way into your feet.

4. You can sand it down, sandblast it, or use naval jelly or airplane stripper (I don't know what the Army uses).

But after buying a new front wheel, cranks, BB, stem, bars, seatpost, saddle, pedals, stripping agent of choice, paint, and angle grinder, you'll probably be in the hole versus if you'd just ditched that (hey, sell it on Craig's List for $20 and count that towards a complete) and bought an old quality "10-speed".

I concur with my learned brother (above). Unless you already have most of the parts lying around, this baby sounds like too much work for too little payoff. However, if you have a little bit of storage space, keep it in reserve and if you stumble on some coaster brake wheels and a few other parts, you could have a nice junker in no time.

...but I stay away from fire to avoid burning my hand off.



what's left of your hand! :eek:

For about a year I rode a single speed conversion 73 Schwinn Conti. (which I believe to be very similar to the Varsity). The main trouble with riding this bike fixed is the front wheel sticks out way in front of you which makes it difficult to un-weight the rear wheel well enough to get a decent skid going. The main pleasure is that the Conti. - as well as the Varsity - is that they are beautiful bikes that offer a nice, stiff ride.

The one piece crank is a bit of a drag because it reduces your choices for pedals - at least on mine, the hole where you screw in the pedals is very small so i got stuck with some dorky looking BMX things. On the plus side, a good quality one piece crank is almost indestructible - see Sheldon Brown's article on this. You can get an adapter which will make it possible to use a three piece crank system but I am not convinced that this is worth it ... but I am thinking about it.

Something that is worth the expense is a good set of wheels. I had initially left the original wheels on the bike and shortened the chain – I didn't even remove the superfluous parts of the cassette. I got used to this and didn't think much about it. Then I decided to build up a proper wheel – Surly hub, Salsa rim – and it was like riding a whole new bike. I cannot overstate the difference a good rear wheel can make.

As for the cable stops, you should be able to get these off with a hack saw and a little elbow grease. Make sure you have a new blade on that saw - it will make a world of difference. A pair of bolt cutters and the remaining elbow grease should get the U-Lock off ... do this outside, far away from any thing of value - the last time I had to cut a U-Lock, when I finally popped it, bits of the lock flew everywhere nearly smashing a car window and terrifying my neighbor's cat.

I also recently painted a bike and found that a little sanding and a lot of patience with the paint (and a clear coat when I was finished) resulted in a fine rattle can job. My Univega is now Chevrolet orange - think Dukes of Hazard minus the creepy flag ... and the engine.

So, my advice is to take your time and build this up as a single speed/free wheel cruiser with mustache bars and a front brake (the geometry makes it hard to go over the handlebars as well ... but not impossible). If the frame is in good shape and you like the size of it then this might be a fun project.

Its not worth it. Ebay an old frame, or get a better beater frame.

I'm converting a Schwinn Traveler. It is heavy (but lighter than a varsity), but it has half-decent cranks and other parts.

Aaah. Ashtabula cranks. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/opc.html

It's probably not worth buying all the parts needed to build it up. You can try Bike Kitchen, Pedal Revolution, or that shop on 14th at Guerrero (if it's still there) for old cheap parts. It still may cost a bit once you get all the parts together. Check Craigslist for older complete bikes to strip down and rebuild.

what's left of your hand! :eek:

My point exactly! If I can't be trusted with blunt objects what chance do I stand with fire?

Re the pedals, you can also get an adapter that threads into the one-piecers and provides a standard 9/16 hole.

Whoops ... I missed the part about how the frame had no cranks etc. This may make it not worth it ... and this coming from a hopeless romantic when it comes to old bikes - esp. Schwinns.


Its not worth it. Ebay an old frame, or get a better beater frame.

I'm converting a Schwinn Traveler. It is heavy (but lighter than a varsity), but it has half-decent cranks and other parts.

What's up with the Traveller? I have a pair of Traveller IIIs, one men's, one women's - Made in Japan and I can't figure out when they were made. The serial number system seems different for the ones built in Japan. I wouldn't really care but I am trying to sell them for charity and I would like to be able to tell people as much as I can about them.

re: pedals,
I also have 1-pc cranks on an old Schwinn (79 conti) and an old Iverson 3-speed. I have been using Wellgo BMX pedals w/ clips and straps, but recently discovered that airbomb.com sells 1/2" thread quill pedals for something around $15. Heckuva deal. Of course, this only helps if you are going with clips and straps, obviously you need to get an adapter for clipless pedals.
IIRC the 1 to 3-pc conversion thingy only costs between 30 and 40 bucks, can't remember the amount. For that much though, you could just buy a better frame with a 3-piece crank and in better condition.

The varsity is also electro plate welded and not fillet brazed like its more expensive versions (Le Tour, Sports Tourer) I am bothering with one of the brazed ones but I wouldn't with an electro.

Milo

Whoops ... I missed the part about how the frame had no cranks etc. This may make it not worth it ... and this coming from a hopeless romantic when it comes to old bikes - esp. Schwinns.

What's up with the Traveller? I have a pair of Traveller IIIs, one men's, one women's - Made in Japan and I can't figure out when they were made. The serial number system seems different for the ones built in Japan. I wouldn't really care but I am trying to sell them for charity and I would like to be able to tell people as much as I can about them.


I don't know much about them other than they were popular in the early to mid 80's. They are heavy but the frame is durable. A nice beater when upgraded with aero brakes and alloy wheels. Before I started the SS convert, I had bar-end shifters on it. I originally pulled it from a dumpster in 1992.