Bicycle Mechanics - Taping Bullhorns

OK searching the internet I got 4 different answers,
Start at end go inside to ourside
Start at end go outside to in
Start midddle....

SO what is the right answer? And why?

Just the way you ' shingle', an overlap in one way to keep the rain out,
you wrap a road bar starting at the bottom
so the most common hand position shift , around the top curve..
as you reach to the brake lever hood to stop/slow .
wont peel up the edge of the tape.

think it thru ..

Or maybe just go get foam sleeves or sew on leather ,, sewn in a tube.

:popcorn

When speaking of normal road bars (drop bars)
starting at the center has the advantage of giving the bar tape a clean look as you will use the the overlap of the the tape to secure the starting end and the finishing end of the tape will be tucked into the end of the bar and held in place by the end plug/end cap. The disadvantage of this is the free edge of the tape will be in a position that will tend to curl due to the pressure of the hand. Another disadvantage to this with regular drop bars is that if one wants to mount clip on aero bars you run into the problem of not being able to conveniently unwrap the top portion of the bar tape.

Starting at the bottom has the advantage of having a clean starting end which will be held in by the end plug/cap and then finishing towards the center of the bar with tape that can be unwrapped to mount clip on bars, and the free edge of the tape is at the trailing edge which does not catch on the hand of the rider and so is not likely to curl.

The barnetts manual recommends taping outside to inside or if taping the right side of the bar taping in a counter-clockwise direction and if taping the left side a clockwise direction. This is so the pressure of the riders hands acts to tighten the spiral of tape instead of loosening it.

With bull horn bars though it may be better to start at the middle and tape towards the end of the bar as the forward direction of the bars will cause the free edge of the tape to be the trailing edge.

-j

:popcorn

Okay, made it to the top of my pedestal - angels await deliverance on my command for any heretics who dare to question...

On my bullhorns as I do with regular road bars I went from top to bottom - using 1/4" extra as fold-in material at the bottom so the plugs when malletted in ain't gonna come out on their own.

1. At the top (stem side) I started out by cutting a right triangle into the start of the tape to reduce overlap "bulk" on the first wrap.
2. I wrap over and back - under and forward.
3. I tension the tape as I am wrapping.
4. In the straights my overlap is 1/2.
5. In the bends my overlap is 3/4 inside and 1/4 outside - you lose a lot of tape in the bends - that's just the way it is.
6. At the ends I maintain my wrap as though I have a 1/4" more bar than I really have.
7. Cut - fold into the bar opening.
8. Position the plug - mallet the sucker in - or force the damn bullhorn brake levers in if you have those. (I used Dia Compe's)

=8-)

Okay, made it to the top of my pedestal - angels await deliverance on my command for any heretics who dare to question...=8-)

Apostasy! You promote schisms among the faithful! Be gone, and cast your worthless self into the firey depths of hell.

OK searching the internet I got 4 different answers,
Start at end go inside to ourside
Start at end go outside to in
Start midddle....

SO what is the right answer? And why?

This may have been over thought a little, sometimes you just have to do and mess up to learn.

I did it tonight as soon as I get some break cable, I thought I had some, I'll test it...tomorrow hopefully