Bicycle Mechanics - Bottom Bracket Tool for Shimano Alivio/SLX/XT

I'm going to replace my Alivio crankset with either an SLX or XT. What bottom bracket tool(s) will I need?

Are you replacing just the crank or the crank AND the bottom bracket?

5mm allen wrench and something with a thin flat end.

BBT-19 for the cups

Are you replacing just the crank or the crank AND the bottom bracket?

5mm allen wrench and something with a thin flat end.

BBT-19 for the cups

From what I understand, the SLX and XT cranksets have their own BB that you have to use. I've got a crank puller so getting the cranks off won't be a problem.

Will the BBT-19 fit both the Alivio cups and the SLX/XT cups?

current alivio is octalink i believe older one was sq taper. for either you need the 20 spline cartridge bb tool

current alivio is octalink i believe older one was sq taper. for either you need the 20 spline cartridge bb tool

OK, so I'll probably need two different tools. I was just reading that I might also need a BBT-10 for something internal on the Hollowtech, but couldn't quite figure out what it was for.

BTW, I have this:

224011

I read that it can be used to remove some bottom bracket cups. Would it work with any of the ones I'd be dealing with?

Which is the BBT-22 for the N-54, UN-56 type deals. . .

There's also the BT-18 which is the 8 notch for XTR. . .

BTW, I have this:

224011

I read that it can be used to remove some bottom bracket cups. Would it work with any of the ones I'd be dealing with?No.

I'm going to replace my Alivio crankset with either an SLX or XT. What bottom bracket tool(s) will I need?
Meh.

Why listen to me anyway?

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/external-bearing-crank-systems-hollowtech-ii-megaexo-giga-x-pipe-x-type-campagnolo-ultra-torque

Shouldn't have to worry about chasing and facing usually unless there's reason to suspect thread damage (like nothing will thread properly). Not as important for external bearing BB anymore

Why listen to me anyway?



Because I don't know what I'm doing =) Only bottom bracket I messed with before was the Phil Wood on one of my old roadies.

So I'll need a BBT-22 to remove whatever BB is used with the Alivio and I'll need a BBT-19 to install the Hollowtech SLX or XT. What about the BBT-10...will I need that?

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SLX/SI_6PZFA_002/SI-6PZFA-002-En_v1_m56577569830647029.pdf

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SLX/SI_6PZFA_002/SI-6PZFA-002-En_v1_m56577569830647029.pdf

See, this just adds more questions than answers. Now it's telling me to use some tool called a TC-FC32. Morever, I haven't found any mention of a BBT-10 on Shimano's instructions or on Park Tool's page for the installation of the Hollowtech. Yet there's a BBT-10 for use with Hollowtech.

You can understand why I want to ask a lot of questions and get a lot of opinions before I spend money on tools.

Thanks for the replies everyone. This gives me some pieces of the puzzle. I started a new thread which, if answered, should give me a complete picture.

See, this just adds more questions than answers. Now it's telling me to use some tool called a TC-FC32.
Focus on what the tools actually do, and this will be simple. Installing the new cranks and BB requires 1) fastening the BB cups into the frame, and 2) installing and snugging the plastic cap on the left end of the crank spindle. So you can pick any company's tool for each of those two tasks. A Park Tool BBT-9 combines both in one tool, if you want something basic.

If you'll be doing a lot of this, a socket-type tool is nice for task #1. I like my Pedros 1/2"-drive socket combined with a long 1/2"-drive ratchet for leverage.

By the way, it's also recommended that you use a torque wrench on the pinch bolts on the left crankarm.

Because I don't know what I'm doing =) Only bottom bracket I messed with before was the Phil Wood on one of my old roadies.

So I'll need a BBT-22 to remove whatever BB is used with the Alivio and I'll need a BBT-19 to install the Hollowtech SLX or XT. What about the BBT-10...will I need that?Probably. but please note the drive side of these things can be stuck in there pretty good. And the splines are shallow so the BBT-22 kind of flops around if you can't secure it. Also the drive side cup is reverse threaded.

One other remark: I've encountered a few Octalink bottom brackets whose spindles are long enough that the BBT-22 can't reach. It bottoms out on the spindle before it reaches the cup. IntoTheWild, if yours is Octalink, post back and I'll get you a measurement of how deep the BBT-22's core is.

Yeah, it's Octalink.

Yeah, it's Octalink.

The depth of the BBT-22's center is 4cm. You'd want about 5mm of spline engagement, so let's subtract 5mm from that. If your spindle end is protruding from the face of the bottom bracket more than 35mm, a BBT-22 won't be able to swallow it, unless they've changed the design since I got mine.

In that situation I reach for my Shimano TL-UN52, which has an open core and the spindle passes right through it. The downside is that it can't be driven by a ratchet, but it gets the job done.

By the way, if you haven't extracted Octalink arms before, it's easy to overlook the very thin ring-shaped washer that goes between the bolt head and the crankarm. So keep an eye open for it.

The depth of the BBT-22's center is 4cm. You'd want about 5mm of spline engagement, so let's subtract 5mm from that. If your spindle end is protruding from the face of the bottom bracket more than 35mm, a BBT-22 won't be able to swallow it, unless they've changed the design since I got mine.

In that situation I reach for my Shimano TL-UN52, which has an open core and the spindle passes right through it. The downside is that it can't be driven by a ratchet, but it gets the job done.

By the way, if you haven't extracted Octalink arms before, it's easy to overlook the very thin ring-shaped washer that goes between the bolt head and the crankarm. So keep an eye open for it.

The BBT-2 was origionally designed for square taper but Park revised it for ISIS and Octalink BBs. The BBT-22 always had clearance for ISIS and Octalink .

The BBT-2 was origionally designed for square taper but Park revised it for ISIS and Octalink BBs. The BBT-22 always had clearance for ISIS and Octalink .

From daily experience, I know that there are some Octalink spindles that are too long for a BBT-22 (or the similar model from Lifu-of-many-rebadgings), and some of the Alivio cranksets do use them (123mm spindle lengths, if I recall correctly), so it's a possible "gotcha" for the OP. Can't hurt to check.

Well I hope it's not a problem because it looks like the TL-UN52 is a discontinued tool.

Well I hope it's not a problem because it looks like the TL-UN52 is a discontinued tool.

The Park BBT-32 has a simular design.

OK, so BBT-32, BBT-19, and BBT-10. I will need about $40 worth of weird sockets to do this swap.

You can also get a BBT-9 instead of the BBT-10 and BBT-19.

OK, so BBT-32, BBT-19, and BBT-10. I will need about $40 worth of weird sockets to do this swap.

On the bright side, these designs have become de facto standards, so you'll be equipped for the long haul :)

You can also get a BBT-9 instead of the BBT-10 and BBT-19.

Yeah, I looked at that one, but I think I prefer the socket design of the 19.


On the bright side, these designs have become de facto standards, so you'll be equipped for the long haul :)

True. And I'd probably spend at least $40 to pay a bike shop to do the swap for me.

Yes and if you go SRAM need a 16mm hex. . .