Bicycle Mechanics - Disc Brakes

will disk brakes fit on a GT Aggressor 3.0?

And any comments on disc brakes?

Thanks

Disc Brakes will fit on an Agressor if:

1) the suspension fork has the disc tabs to accept a disc brake

2) the rear triangle has the disc tabs that makes it disc compatible.

Of course if the rear does not have the tabs, you can always mount a front disc brake, and keep the rear a v-brake, or use Magura's hyrdualic v brake (whats the correct term?).

Funko

Another important consideration is whether or not the hubs are disc ready - don't underestimate this expense.

Disc Brakes are good because you can ride with a wheel that is somewhat out of true. Also disc brakes are self cleaning meaning that as you use the brake, any dirt or water is cleaned away by the rotar. The downsides are that they are harder to set up, you need disc hubs and disc mounts(hence your question), and they cost alot more than most rim brakes. :beer:

Originally posted by trialsin
Disc Brakes are good because you can ride with a wheel that is somewhat out of true.


That's the one of the main reasons I want it.

Thanks,

And yes the gt has all of those requirements, but Im not sure about the hubs being disc ready.

As it seems, my bike does not come fitted with the hubs.

The Rear tire has space for a disc brake, but I don't understand how a hub/disc can fit in with the fron tire.

Anyways, How hard is it to string a hub?

Originally posted by kzochert
As it seems, my bike does not come fitted with the hubs.

If you're brave you could try these new gadgets:

http://www.firstprinciples.ca/

I can't imagine that they will work well but who knows?


The Rear tire has space for a disc brake, but I don't understand how a hub/disc can fit in with the fron tire.

Front disc hubs are not symmetrical, they are dished to accomodate the rotor.


Anyways, How hard is it to string a hub?

To get an overview of what is involved see:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

I wouldn't suggest building a wheel until you are familiar with truing a wheel. Find an old wheel to practice on if neccessary. By the time you budget for the new hubs and spokes, it may be a better idea to keep your existing wheels as they are and buy a new set of disc compatible wheels.

After looking at what I want/need, all of the hubs I found were 8/9 speed, and my bike is a 7 speed, does this mean that I would have to upgrade my bike to a 8 or 9 speed bike?

Thanks,

Originally posted by kzochert
After looking at what I want/need, all of the hubs I found were 8/9 speed, and my bike is a 7 speed, does this mean that I would have to upgrade my bike to a 8 or 9 speed bike?
Thanks,

As you found out, you won't find disc hubs in 7-speed. You can run a 7-speed cassette on an 8/9 speed rear hub - you just need a spacer so you're OK there. Unfortunately, some 7-speed MTBs have 130mm (approx 5-1/8")spacing between the rear dropouts whereas all the 8/9 speed MTB stuff is 135 (approx 5-5/16"). If your dropout measures 130mm and the rear triangle is aluminum then you might be out of luck.

As for comments on the brakes, there EXTREMELY LOUD! they make the most horrible squealing sound ive ever heard!

Funko - they're called Magura HS33 hydraulic rim brakes. I'm getting a full set for my bike and I can't wait :D.

Seems how i am somewhat poor what do you guys think about these:

http://pricepoint.com/product1161.html

Spend the extra $20 and get the Avids. I heard people say they're as good if not better than hydraulics, Is that right KevingG? He's got some and swears by em!

BTW. Loud squeaking sound = improper setup or contaminated pads!

Actually for both the avids it would be an extra $110.

Perhaps I should only get a front avid disk brake.

Suggestions.

I don't know about the Shimano's, but I've had the Avid's for over a year now and they are fantastic brakes. Easy to set up too. You might check MTB review and see what everyone has to say about the Shimano's, but I'd go with the Avid's.

I have Avids on my GT and I love them. Very easy to set up and easy to dial in for your preference. I have never heard any bad comments on Avids from all the people I know that have them.

As far as hydraulics go...I hear the Hayes are the best.

Hayes are good, so are the Hope Mini's, but they can be expensive. My LBS recommended me the Shimano XT Hydraulics...besides the fact that they use steel hoses that can't be cut, but have been prebled, the LBS worker said that he has a friend that uses them and that they were awesome. Oh, you can prevent the steel cables from eating your paint by wraping them with electrical tape, or some other hosing, if possible. I've heard that Shimano is going to put a plastic hose on top of the steel braided cables to prevent paint wear. :beer:

Funko

Does anyone know how to tell if your hub is compatible? I have formula quick releases, and i'm almost posative they aren't, but how do you tell?

I'm reading a lot of, "Is my hub compatable?" on this thread. I'm new to this board so I hope I don't come across as a total arse hole here.

Generally a disk compatable hub will have six bolt holes on the left (or non-drive side) of the hub. The bolt holes are there to accomodate the bolts which hold on your rotor for the dick braks.

Below is an example of a non-compatable hub. (I apologize for using Chirs King, but I just love the stuff!!!)

http://www.chrisking.com/hubs/classic_images/230W/silverroadB.jpg

and here is an example of a disk compatable hub. Notice the six bolt holes...

http://www.chrisking.com/hubs/ISO_disc_images/230W/navyisosetB.jpg

Further disc hubs usually have a taller spoke flange to account for the attitional rotating stress a disc brake puts on the hub. Which is the only reason I question that adapter I've seen posted on another message baord.

So if your current hubs don't have the six bolt holes you're either looking at new hubs or if your wheel set is old, you might consider buying a new set of wheels. Which is part of what making the upgrade to disc brakes sooo expensive.

Further for a cheap and economical disc brake go with the Avid Mechanical discs hands down. They work the best, better then some hydraulics, are a snap to set up and are stupid easy to maintain. I run a set on my freeride hardtail and love them.

Hayes I wouldn't recommend. I've talked to enough shop mechanics who hate the plastic internals in Hayes lever body. If you're gonna spend the dough on Hayes buy Hopes instead. XT discs are a hit and miss. I've heard some people say they're great and some people say they're shyte!

IMHO Avids make the best brakes on the market overall. Including thier rim brakes.

thanx alot.:beer:
oh and what kind of bike do you ride?

For freeriding I have a 15" black Cove Stiffee FR 2002, spec'd w/ Manitou Black Elite 100/120 fork, Chris King Steel Set, Kona Buldge Cranks, 8 spd Shimano XT drivetrain, Avid Discs, Mavic 321 rims laced to XT disc hubs, Thompson stem, Race Face XY seat post, Titec Berzerker saddle. For tires I'm currently running a set of 2.35 inch Maxxis MoFo DH.

For XC I have a totally tricked out 17" 1999 Rocky Mountain Thin Air, spec'd w/ 2000 Rock Shox SID, Shimano XTR/XT 9 spd Drivetrain, Avid Mag rim brakes and levers, Chris King headset, Mavic 517 rims, Race Face System, Easton CT2 handlebars, Thompson seat post, Selle Italia Flite saddle.

I use SRAM chains (w/o the power link) and ODI lock-on grips on both of my bikes.

Both bikes I built up as frame only buys so I could spec them howevr I wanted too.

Maybe next year I'll be ditching the Rocky for a full suspension XC rig. As funny as it may sound, I like a laid back hardtail for freeriding however a full squish for XC riding I think will work out better for me. Just need something to take the edge off.

That's funny. I prefer a hardtail for freeriding too. But as for XC I would rather a hardtail too. Unless there is a nice stiff, and low travel hardtail, but i haven't tried one yet...