Track Cycling: Velodrome Racing and Training Area - Dura ace BB-7700 vs. BB-7710

Which is the better BB?

I have recently bought a used Track SRM and want to fit Dura Ace Track BB's to both my bikes so I can swap it between the two.

The first bike is a Planet X Track frameset I've just had delivered and about to build up. I plan on using this bike indoors only and primarily for my A races such as States and Nationals, so I'll wire it up to have the PCV under the seat to keep the commissaires happy.

My existing bike is a 2008 Fuji Track pro, which I plan now on relegating to club racing outdoors and for training duty indoors and out. I'll wire it up to have the PCV on the bars.

Given I have already bought one of each BB model, which should I fit to the Planet X leaving the other for the Fuji. Noting also that I am a 75kg Enduro rider in case that sways the decision?

The BB-7700 is the needle bearing model. BB-7710 is the NJS sealed bearing model.

NJS racers are required to race in the rain which makes the sealed bearing model (7710) more practical.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AB0cYVQEEWY

The needle bearing model (7700) can be tuned to spin more smoothly than the sealed model using tension (or lack thereof) on the bearings and your choice of lubricant. But, this one needs the routine maintenance than all ball bearing hubs require.

So, I guess use the 7700 on the indoor / special occasion bike and use the 7710 on the outdoor / training bike.

I don't think that one is necessarily better than the other. They both have their pros and cons. I've used both. You can get the 7700 to run really, really smoothly with little resistance when turning it with the fingers. But, you have to use a fine oil/grease mixture that has a limited lifespan that needs to be replaced often. Thicker grease will last longer. Sealed bearings are "set it and forget it".

Thanks Carleton.

you can use the BB-105 or Ultegra(if you can find one)for your training bike.

Appreciate the tip Soil_Sampler. Though I already have the BB's, so will go with these for the time being.

+1 on Carleton. I've run both, I prefer the 7700, it's a thing of simplistic beauty, but I also enjoy hanging out in my garage having a beer, listen to Led Zep and working on my bikes.

If you have already bought them, then as Carleton says, 7700 on the Planet X, 7710 on the Fuji training bike. The only caveat to that, is I've seen issues on some newer carbon frames with a standard 109mm spindle and clearance between the back of the chainring/bolts and the stays. You'd need to stick it on and have a look.

GRAVEDIGGING!!!!!!1!!

Is the price difference in sealed vs. unsealed worth it? How often would a typical 7700 need to be serviced, and would it involve complete removal? Because of the sealed BB, would the 7710 require absolutely no maintenance after proper setting?

What about the 6500 Ultegra? I've read slightly heavier, but the least amount of service.

I don't ride my bike in heavy rain because of the 7600 hubs I rock.

What about the 6500 Ultegra? I've read slightly heavier, but the least amount of service.


buy the bb105.

By the way, and WAY off topic, few pro keirin guys in Japan use the 7700 cranks and bb. The vast majority are on a 7600 with a Sugino 75 bb. And yes, they ride in the rain. Useless fact of the day...

I was aware that they rode in the rain, but I choose to avoid downpour riding because I don't feel like messing with my hub bearings. The hubs only get drenched when I'm riding in hurricane weather. Otherwise, the spinning of the wheel does plenty to keep water away from the bearing seals.

Personal opinion/reasoning on the 105?

I was aware that they rode in the rain, but I choose to avoid downpour riding because I don't feel like messing with my hub bearings. The hubs only get drenched when I'm riding in hurricane weather. Otherwise, the spinning of the wheel does plenty to keep water away from the bearing seals.

Personal opinion/reasoning on the 105?

Man, you're riding a steel bike with 32 spokes front/rear and double straps. You won't notice the few extra ounces of the 105bb. Seriously.

Save yourself around $70 and buy the 105 BB. It functions the same and will last just as long.

Do you need the Dura Ace BB...or do you just want it because it's Dura Ace? If that's the case, just buy it and you don't need to ask if it's worth it because you'll still want it no matter what we say :)

You read right through me.

Honestly, I'm so far up my own fanboy arse that the extra $70 will be worth it to me. The price difference to practical difference is interesting, but I'm obstinate.

You read right through me.

Honestly, I'm so far up my own fanboy arse that the extra $70 will be worth it to me. The price difference to practical difference is interesting, but I'm obstinate.

The differences between 105, Ultegra, and Dura Ace are generally weight savings. They are all very high quality groups.

Shimano also does this sort of hand-me-down thing with the technology of each group. Today's Dura Ace will be the next generation's Ultegra...and so on. Same quality, just a little older.

So, don't stress over it.

If you are trying to find the best bang for your buck, go with 105 or Ultegra. If you want an all Dura-Ace bike, then go for it. But, don't think that you have to buy Dura Ace to get quality.

Yeah I realize I can't go wrong with just about anything Shimano puts out, I just don't want to run into any hypothetical situation down the road where I find myself thinking, "Should have went with what I really wanted.." or "Should have bought the Dura Ace.." Its the same reason why I opted to buy new cranks instead of the much better deal with used.

I'd like to think that all my bikes that I will ever own will rock new 7710 drivetrains, but thats delusional at best. I'll probably move this crankset over once I build a dedicated track rig, and in that case, I could see the weight savings being an issue that I would care about.

But I've also read that Shimano are big fans of not fixing what is not broken, so does that mean that when it comes to track components, they're pretty steady in quality denominations (what is Dura Ace is actually Dura Ace)?

Yeah I realize I can't go wrong with just about anything Shimano puts out, I just don't want to run into any hypothetical situation down the road where I find myself thinking, "Should have went with what I really wanted.." or "Should have bought the Dura Ace.." Its the same reason why I opted to buy new cranks instead of the much better deal with used.

I'd like to think that all my bikes that I will ever own will rock new 7710 drivetrains, but thats delusional at best. I'll probably move this crankset over once I build a dedicated track rig, and in that case, I could see the weight savings being an issue that I would care about.

But I've also read that Shimano is big fans of not fixing what is not broken, so does that mean that when it comes to track components, they're pretty steady in quality denominations (what is Dura Ace is actually Dura Ace)?

Stop thinking.

This conversation is going to come down to: Buy what you want. If you can't afford what you want, buy what you can afford.

Dura Ace components are still used on bikes from your neighborhood to the highest levels of the sport every day.

http://farm1.staticflickr.com/132/363792441_8c0e8bdb1f_z.jpg

Remember weight on track bikes means zero. You never go up a hill.

You never go up a hill.

Sure feels like it though riding to the top of the bends at our local indoor velodrome... ;)