Commuting - solid axle dynamo hubs

Hey guys,
So I am looking for a good solid axle disc compatible dynamo hub. I see a lot of high end hubs made only for quick releases but was wondering if there were any good ones that used a solid axle? I have a front rack that I use often that attaches to a solid front axle. I would love to keep the rack and disc brake but want a dynamo light. Is it possible to swap the axles on an alfine hub to a solid axle? Thanks a lot.

We have Shimano DH-3N30 on a couple of bikes, that I believe come both in solid-axle and QR versions, and they ride great.

And the DH-3D30 if you need discs, also available with both QR and solid axle.

Sanyo makes one that looks good. And the old Sturmey Archers are bombproof.

My wife's breezer has a shimano generator hub w/ solid axle. I have swapped out solid for hollow and vice versa on surly hubs, I don't know why specific dynamo hubs wouldn't allow that.

Don't you have any mudguard eyelets on your fork tips?
just because the hole in that Wald basket strut, is bigger
than the diameter of a QR skewer, does not mean modifications cannot be made
to get, say a non QR skewer, theft-resistant, for example, to work for you.

Schmidt hubs that are made now in both ISO and centerlock,
come with an allen bolt skewer.

Hey guys,
So I am looking for a good solid axle disc compatible dynamo hub. I see a lot of high end hubs made only for quick releases but was wondering if there were any good ones that used a solid axle? I have a front rack that I use often that attaches to a solid front axle. I would love to keep the rack and disc brake but want a dynamo light. Is it possible to swap the axles on an alfine hub to a solid axle? Thanks a lot.

The axle on all Shimano's hub dynamos are special slotted ones (the wire runs through this slot), so one cannot just exchange it for a regular solid axle. Even if a suitable axle could be found, it would be a tricky exchange best avoided. The problem is the internal wire since it break very easily.

Shimano makes a solid axle disc hub called "DH-3N30-NT". It is a low end model however, with much higher resistance and lower efficiency than the "Sport" line of Shimano hubs.

Perhaps you could use p-clamps for the front rack and a regular QR dynamo hub? That would also make it easier to take the wheel off.

--
Regards

If you wanted to go drum brake, there's always the Sturmey Archer XF-DD... that's got solid axles.

The SRAM catalog claims to have bolt-on and QR versions of their dynohub, I've never seen the bolt-on offered for sale. Sturmey is a nice option, the 90mm version brake works great.

My wife's breezer has a shimano generator hub w/ solid axle. I have swapped out solid for hollow and vice versa on surly hubs, I don't know why specific dynamo hubs wouldn't allow that.replacing the axle on any dynohub is either difficult or impossible. There are instructions floating around on how to do it for shimano hubs, but the procedure is quite involved and you risk breaking the wire that carries the current for the lights rendering the hub unusable for lighting

Thanks for all the suggestions! :) I'll look into the Shimano and Sram ones. I know solid axle applications are not considered high-end but I was holding out hope there would be a high-quality one available. Here is my front rack setup: http://www.flickr.com/photos/23473772@N07/4684938549/
As you can see, this rack was made to be attached to a solid axle. I am using a Salsa Cro-moto fork and it only has eyelets for fenders, not a rack mount. I want a light set-up that I can use as my primary light during my year round commuting so a hub that can put out the juice for a bright light is what I want. I'm tired of battery lights.
I guess modifying the rack to mount in an alternative fashion might be in order. I carry a lot of weight up front sometimes and I worry P-clamps wont be strong enough.

I've considered p-clamps, I don't trust them in this application, esp since failure has the chance to lock up the front wheel. I've elected to use a local framebuilder to braze on some extra rack mounts near the dropouts like on a Surly Pugsley frame.

I've considered p-clamps, I don't trust them in this application, esp since failure has the chance to lock up the front wheel. I've elected to use a local framebuilder to braze on some extra rack mounts near the dropouts like on a Surly Pugsley frame.

I'm going to have the local framebuilder do this too, as soon as he gets his lazy butt off the couch and turns off the football on tv. Extra eyelets would probably work, but there isn't any real reason not to use rack mount braze ons. Not sure how much the powder coat guy will charge me just for the fork, I think it's less if I strip the paint myself.

I've been running a Sturmey Archer xl-fdd dyno/drum front hub for about a year now and couldn't be happier. It's solid axle and I think it would be up to your task.

How is the braking power? I have never used a front drum brake.

I have run the 70mm version for years in steel, recently in aluminum, it works as well as a rim brake when dry, in the wet it's much better than any rim brake. I recently built a wheel with the newest 90mm drum, it works as well as a 160mm disc, I am impressed. The cost of the SA drum/dyno is very reasonable compared to an SRAM/Shimano disc/dyno, esp if your fork isn't set up for a disc.

Did you reach any conclusions hubwise? I have a TCB rack, too, and am on the prowl for the highest-end solid-axle dynohub I can find. Curious to know what you figured out!