Classic & Vintage - Raleigh Dl-1

Rescued this yesterday 28" inch wheels the date code on the SA Sturmey Archer 3sp three speed is 78. A quick lube job and I aired up the tires and rode it this morning...hmm no brakes but I was amazed how smooth the ride was on those 28"'s


http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/1678/1000986q.jpg

http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/1198/1000987.jpg

They have a majestic ride--smooth, not quick by a longshot. I enjoyed mine, even did the 13.5 mile each way commute on one occassionally. They were not my ideal size, so I ended up selling one and trading the other. Glad I had a chance to try them out.

Watch out with those brakes. Riding down a hill in the rain with a stop sign at the bottom of the hill--start braking early.

After tightening up the rear seat stays it rides a lot better what an interesting design

I'm pretty sure Raleigh used to make a mounting bracket for a Coleman lantern.... ;)

There is actually a lantern bracket I don't fancy acetylene however
http://www.re-buy-cycle.co.uk/uploads/209/0.jpg

Rod brakes are an odd duck. Not cables, just linkage. The braking friction is created by pulling a yolk with brake shoes against the inside surface of the rim instead of the sides like with caliper brakes. If your rims are radially out of true, the braking will pulse badly. I have a DL-1 and am looking into trying to pull the rims back to radial true with a little jig I've built.

Pictures?
Rims are true I am not sure about radially I will check tomorrow. and that yolk/linkage is very good on the rust spots it is polishing the rim slowly, lol.
Would re-tensioning the spokes not true the rim radially? Or is the steel been damaged?

Rod brakes are an odd duck. Not cables, just linkage. The braking friction is created by pulling a yolk with brake shoes against the inside surface of the rim instead of the sides like with caliper brakes. If your rims are radially out of true, the braking will pulse badly. I have a DL-1 and am looking into trying to pull the rims back to radial true with a little jig I've built.

They are great bikes and a really fun change of pace. The slack angles and large wheels give a unique and comfortable ride. I believe the crank arms are longer than normal too, somthing like 180. It's a slow bike to start, but you really can get these things moving pretty fast... stopping is another issue. I'd double check that the stem is not past the minimum insertion mark, mine is extended to the max and yours looks a little taller.

Here is my DL-1, you can see one of the lamps that fits the bracket. Mine is a pifco that I modified to work with C batteries, it was very easy to do.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6066/6077231038_9426714a10_b.jpg

Thanks the rims seem radially good I am loving this bike more and more it reminds me of all the time I spent in Europe especially Amsterdam and Holland

Shots of the last one I traded away:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj303/KeithAM_photo/DL-1rodbrakes.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj303/KeithAM_photo/DL-1.jpg

If I ever come across one with a 24" frame at a fair price, I'll definitely go for it.

So I found a Chain Guard, and a rear reflector... and a vinyl brooks springer seat the Jerry Springer Brooks saddle? pics tomorrow

Gotta love the DL-1, they are a beast and are a bit quirky. Several ways to improve braking, one quick way is to get Koolstop Salmon pads (http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html#rodbrake) also set them up properly. I have the OEM style pads on mine, but can skid the rear wheel. These bikes are supposedly the single most produced bike design in the world. Great ride and will last forever with minimal care.

Aaron :)