Fifty Plus (50+) - Considering MTB...what to look for?

I'm thinking of doing some winter trail riding to supplement my winter gym training. This will be trail riding and I have very little experience on anything but a road bike. Just wondering what to look for in a bike and what price range I should expect to be shopping in.

Should have mentioned that I have no idea how to size a MTB. I'm now 5'9" (down from 5'10") and have a 32.5" inseam measured crotch to floor in bare feet.

A few questions before I answer. What size is your road bike? What model bike is it? What kind of trails will you be riding? How rough is the terrain? How hilly? What condition is your back in?

From the Road forum. http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/781285-Help-a-rodie-buy-a-mountain-bike

A few questions before I answer. What size is your road bike? What model bike is it? What kind of trails will you be riding? How rough is the terrain? How hilly? What condition is your back in?

I ride a Masi Gran Criterium S (2007 model). Perfect road bike size for me is 56-57 cm C to C. The trails are basically wider, grassy trails kind of like a logging road. Moderate hills and my back is fine. Not the same I know, but I've done 1,000 mi. days on my Ducati and can easily do 50 mi. days on the Masi. My back is not an issue.

From the Road forum. http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/781285-Help-a-rodie-buy-a-mountain-bike

Read this but most of it is about higher priced bikes compared to what I'm looking for. I expect to use this bike just to be out in the woods and in no particular hurry. If I go out 12 times during the winter it will be a lot.

A Hardtail with LX groupset as a minimum-Discs are not necessary but are nice providing they are a known make that works- Rebuildable fork- and preferably wheels that will take the punishment you are going to give it.

Or for your trails- a 29er with basically the same as above.

Sizing and you will probably need a smaller frame in comparison to a road bike- but that top tube will be looooong

I ride a 51 road bike and a 15" MTB. Direct comparison on sizing is not possible between road and MTB but the 15" mtb is the comfort bike for long rides. I also ride a 19" Kona that is faster- more agile and being steel is smoother-but I can't do the milage on it. 40 miles XC is enough on the Kona.

I ride a Masi Gran Criterium S (2007 model). Perfect road bike size for me is 56-57 cm C to C. The trails are basically wider, grassy trails kind of like a logging road. Moderate hills and my back is fine. Not the same I know, but I've done 1,000 mi. days on my Ducati and can easily do 50 mi. days on the Masi. My back is not an issue.


YOu probably would do fine with a hardtail, either 26" or 29er, your preference. The more you spend, the better quality. Try to get something with a decent fork, hydraulic disc brakes and SLX or X.9 components if you can, but mechanical discs and Deore are not bad. I am most familiar with Specialized, so I would look at a Stumpumper Comp or down to a mid level Rockhopper.

YOu probably would do fine with a hardtail, either 26" or 29er, your preference. The more you spend, the better quality. Try to get something with a decent fork, hydraulic disc brakes and SLX or X.9 components if you can, but mechanical discs and Deore are not bad. I am most familiar with Specialized, so I would look at a Stumpumper Comp or down to a mid level Rockhopper.

I have a 2011 Rockhopper and the drivetrain has issues. I've read reviews where others have had similar problems. Something to keep in mind.

I have a 2011 Rockhopper and the drivetrain has issues. I've read reviews where others have had similar problems. Something to keep in mind.

What kind of issues. Drivetrains are made by Shimano and SRAM, not bike manufacturers.

Read this but most of it is about higher priced bikes compared to what I'm looking for. I expect to use this bike just to be out in the woods and in no particular hurry. If I go out 12 times during the winter it will be a lot.

The op in that thread has a budget of $1500, what's yours? If you just want something cheap to thrash around on maybe check Bikes Direct or Performance or Nashbar for a sale.
I have a KHS I paid $1k for in 2008 and it doesn't owe me a dime. Takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin'.

I agree with the others that a hardtail is probably fine. I would make sure it has disc brakes. Mountain bike frames are typically sized in inches, but it's hard to make direct comparisons - you usually have to get on the bike and see how it feels.

I agree with most that by far the best mountain bike ever created was the GT Xizang, a hardtail titanium-frame mountain bike. Exceptionally strong, light weight and durable. Corrosion proof, if you're considering rides along the sea shore. GT went broke (probably from putting too much quality into their products for the price) and so the only titanium Xizangs you will find are resale market. There's on on ebay right now...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250933877767&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123#ht_500wt_1284

I'm NOT the seller, and don't have a clue who the hell he/she is. I just follow Xizangs as they come around. If an 18-inch (average size) would work for you, this is the bike that will last you the rest of your life. And your children's, and your grandchildren's...

I ride a Masi Gran Criterium S (2007 model). Perfect road bike size for me is 56-57 cm C to C.


Should have mentioned that I have no idea how to size a MTB. I'm now 5'9" (down from 5'10") and have a 32.5" inseam measured crotch to floor in bare feet.

My guess would be you would fit best on a MTB somewhere around 17". I am 6' with a 34.5" inseam (pbh) and I fit best on 18-19" MTBs.

I agree with most that by far the best mountain bike ever created was the GT Xizang, a hardtail titanium-frame mountain bike...

I never knew there was such a consensus about this. ;)

bruce19, If I were looking for a mountain bike that was only used a dozen or so times a year I wouldn't go too upmarket with it, also factoring in that it'll also be a winter bike.

Besides a mountain bike you can also look at CX bikes, city bikes and hybrids if the trails are generally smooth. Hybrids and city bikes often have provisions for mounting a carrier if you ride your bike to the gym and use a bag.

Brad

This is one heck of deal right here, especially with all the nice components.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/5ht_new_xi.htm#specs

This is one heck of deal right here, especially with all the nice components, and it's made in the U.S.A.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/5ht_new_xi.htm#specs

Not saying it's not a deal, but from Wikipedia:

"The name Motobécane is also used for bikes of Taiwanese manufacture distributed through bikesdirect.com.

This is one heck of deal right here, especially with all the nice components, and it's made in the U.S.A.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/5ht_new_xi.htm#specs

From wiki.."It has no relation to Motobecane USA, which imports bicycles from Taiwan (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taiwan) manufactured to their specification by Kinesis Industry Co. Ltd. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kinesis_Industry_Co._Ltd.) under the Motobécane trademark (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trademark)."

Considering MTB...what to look for?

I would be looking for elbow pads, knee pads, shoulder pads, a full coverage helmet, and above all a good bone doctor, and osteopath.

What's with the Wikepedia links? It's not exactly news that Motobecane is a brand name used by Bikes Direct and not the old French company. And the only moderate priced bikes not made in Taiwan nowadays are the ones made in China, no matter who is selling them.

EDIT: I see now that the post above had originally incorrectly claimed the bike was made in USA.

hard to replicate test rides virtually. cruise the shops, ride stuff.

$500 gets you disc brakes, and a decent Sus fork, and components.

Considering MTB...what to look for?

I would be looking for elbow pads, knee pads, shoulder pads, a full coverage helmet, and above all a good bone doctor, and osteopath.

It doesn't have to be a crash fest, Phil. Get some instruction, find some tame terrain, and stay within yourself.
When I try to talk roadies into trying mtb riding, they picture flying off cliffs and such.

It doesn't have to be a crash fest, Phil. Get some instruction, find some tame terrain, and stay within yourself.
When I try to talk roadies into trying mtb riding, they picture flying off cliffs and such.

20 years ago, when I was a bit younger and stronger, I used to crash pretty good on my bike while riding near my home in the Colorado mountains. Now that I'm one of those guys who qualifies for Medicare, I've slowed down and am taking the surfaced roads. And my mountain bike, though she's proven herself in the mountains, is happy with road tires on pavement. So a mountain bike and its rider don't really have to act like an 18-year old hammerhead.

20 years ago, when I was a bit younger and stronger, I used to crash pretty good on my bike while riding near my home in the Colorado mountains. Now that I'm one of those guys who qualifies for Medicare, I've slowed down and am taking the surfaced roads. And my mountain bike, though she's proven herself in the mountains, is happy with road tires on pavement. So a mountain bike and its rider don't really have to act like an 18-year old hammerhead.

I am this only substitute the word Texas in place of Colorado without so many mountains. I have found lately though that I like any type of "racing" bike that's somewhat used but maybe not much, simply because the ride is so much better. Frame, wheels and components of racing bikes are most likely to work much better than most bikes (especially MTB's) and you can get a multithousand dollar bike in titanium or carbon for a few hundred if you shop EBAY or CL persistently until you find what you want. I have two current bikes that I found this way.

MTB's are just like any other bike--All the first one is for is to tell you what the 2nd one will be. Main thing is the fit. Offroad and you will need better control so although the frame will be a smaller size- The comfort issue does not always mean an upright position. I have two that I regularly ride--3 if you count the Tandem. The main ride is short and high bars but that is a bike that I can ride all day if I have the energy.

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This was my first experience with Suspension forks and was set up to relieve the chest after the bypass in 2000. It is comfortable but I would call it the Endurance setup for XC.

The Kona now has a set of Manitou forks from the era of the bike and are almost rock solid. It used to have Project ll's fitted and with a steel frame. It gave all the comfort needed for long rides and did the 100 mile Offroad 5 times on rigid forks so must have been comfy but that was 14 years and pre-bypass. Still rides well and feels great but tires me out after 40 miles or so now.

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I'm 62 and on my second MTB. First was a Trek 4300 and second purchased this Spring is a Jamis Durango 3 with X7 shifters and disc brakes. At 30lbs, it was also about 12-13 lbs lighter than my Trek. I've put over 1600 miles on it and have had absolutely no problems or issues. My neighbor has a Durango 2 and has had no problems either. My other bike is a Cannondale Synapse Carbon 5. Naples is a great city and either road or MTB should be fine.

I never knew there was such a consensus about this. ;)

Yup. Sure is. And they're bringing out a brand NEW Xizang for 2012. Triple-triangle. Titanium hardtail. In 26 in. and 29er...

http://www.gtbicycles.com/2012/bikes/mountain/xc-race/2012-xixang