Classic & Vintage - Frame Wax Input

I am about to start cleaning and polishing my mixte frame. I have read a lot about how to address most of the problems I will encounter while doing this. The only thing I haven't decided on is the waxing stage. Yes, I have searched but I would like input and preferences.

I want to know what wax YOU recommend and why. I can read every thread here but first hand experience is always better.

Thanks in advance for your input. I promise to post pictures when I'm done so y'all can see the results. :D

Actually the results of how shiny it will get is not because of the wax but how sanded and polished the paint is.

The color was sanded to perfection, then cleared with 3 coats of clear and then sanded again, then polished by hand and the only extra stuff i put in there was something called tech wax from meguiars the 1st time, that pretty much is a conditioner that put oils and stuff in the clear. But that was done only once.

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j426/ultraman6970/DSCF0243.jpg

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j426/ultraman6970/DSCF0241-----.jpg

Unfortunately I am going to have to deal with rust removal during the cleaning process so touch up paint and wax are going to be the best bet to keep the frame in good shape. I wish all it took was a sand and polish.

Hmmm... if its in bad shape probably is better just paint the frame again?? Well depends of your budget too.

What paint are u going to use for the touch ups?? rustoleum stuff?

I am a fan of Meguiar's Tech Wax also.

It's not in bad enough shape to warrant a full repaint. Just needs some attention in a few spots to really make it shine. I'll most likely use nail polish and then a nice wax over the top.

Auchen - Is it safe to wax over foil stickers? I hate that this stuff is over the clear coat.

Been using this stuff for years. It cleans and protects (http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/Site%20Contents/How_To_Do_It/Cleaning/Clean_Polish_1_Introduction.htm) at the same time...

http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/HowToDoIt/HowTo_StickerRemoval/HowTo_StickerOff_StickerCleanerWax.jpg

...

Auchen - Is it safe to wax over foil stickers? I hate that this stuff is over the clear coat.


Chef - I have relatively few foil stickers on my fleet but have never encountered an issue with Meguiar's. - YMMV because the construction of stickers and decals varies, with some made with soluble paint. Meguiars' Tech wax (http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Generation-Tech-18-Ounce-Liquid/dp/B0002UQATS) is however an automotive wax so it is unlikely that any clear-coat issues would arise.

It is not cheap, but IMO it's worth it - I think I paid $21 at the auto supply store. Buying on line would not be much less after shipment.

Any quality car wax will work just fine. No need to spend a small fortune on wax, Turtle wax is fine for a bicycle.

Another vote for Mothers here, I like the way it cleans as well as the shine factor it leaves on older paint. If I have a bike that the paint is in excellent condition already I will use Colinite (SPELLING?) Insulator Wax on it, it's expensive but tough as nails and last a long time between wax jobs.

I'm also a fan of Meguiar's stuff. Several of the numbered waxes and cleaner/waxes I use on my vehicles. Available at auto body supply stores. If you are working on your Jeunet and the paint is dulled a bit, one of the treatments with a light abrasive compound to it might be in order, to rub out the paint a bit. I would keep it off foil decals though. Just use regular wax over those if needed.

I use Turtle wax as well. If the paint is tired/oxidized, I use turtle wax polishing compound first. On severe cases, I will carefully use turtle wax rubbing compound.

I am careful around decals.

Any quality car wax will work just fine. No need to spend a small fortune on wax, Turtle wax is fine for a bicycle.

Obviously you have not used Meguiar's NXT Tech wax. Turtle wax sucks in comparison.

If its oxidized or really nasty I will use Meguiars ScratchX 2.0 first. For wax I always use Mothers Carnuba wax in the tin. I don't like the liquid stuff.

I use rubbing compound on stuff that's been long unprotected or obviously oxidized,
polishing compound on stuff that's less beat up looking, and paste wax afterward
to protect both the paint and the chipped and bare spots.

The car guys have a bazillion answers to this question posted on the
interwebz, and who knows more about shiny than the car guys?:D


3m finish restorer available at Auto zone in the paint and body section. Great stuff but remember
you have to polish after to add moisture to the paint and then wax to protect. the last 2 steps
are necessary with any rubbing compound and there is a difference between polish and wax.
polish conditions, wax protects. as far as polish i prefer McGuire's no26 or no29 one is a polish
and one is a wax both are great for step 2 & 3.

Most of what I do this on does not then get ridden in the rain, which is why god
has given us beater bikes.:thumb:

i've read plenty lately regarding waxes. generally speaking, the more you pay, the better the wax.

however, there's 2 general kinds of waxes:
1. carnauba (natural).
2. synthetic.

carnauba wax is supposed to be "super hard" whatever that means. it is not hard in any appreciable way for bikes. it lasts about 30 days they say, although there's lot of variables. but, it does have an incredible shine, and it is what you want to use if you are going for looks. it is not even close.

synthetic wax (like meguiars above) is made in a lab and is probably way more advanced than carnauba. it lasts a lot longer. months longer. but it doesn't look as nice, but it still looks great. it can be slightly hazy/milky, but i doubt you'd notice.

i used carnauba (kit brand) on my bare steel frame and it looked fantastic. it also started to rust during longer rides (on the coast). if i did it again, i would use a synthetic.

After all the cleaning and polishing I do I went and splurged on a true paint sealer.It really took it up a notch. :thumb:

Works great on the Aluminun bits too.:)
-35 year old paint
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc219/walkingfloor198/motomixte007.jpg

-30 years old paint
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc219/walkingfloor198/traveler006.jpg

-60 year old paint
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc219/walkingfloor198/raleigh013.jpg

After all the cleaning and polishing I do I went and splurged on a true paint sealer.

I would like to know a bit more about this, if you don't mind. Your old paint looks great.

This slightly less expensive Meguiar's #26 worked well for me on the cars.
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M2616-Hi-Tech-Yellow-ounces/dp/B0002SQZR2/ref=sr_1_33?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1322533355&sr=1-33

Turtle wax platinum with carnuba, I was sold on this stuff when I cleaned up an old Japanese Crown road bike once , it came out like it was coated with glass, and it looked like it was made by angels lol

I use Meguire's cleaner/wax - because it's "in stock"

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.do?q=4571

any tips for powdercoat?

Also another Megularian. Tru raises a good question about powdercoat.

Mother's Cleaning Wax on my powder coated 1976 Marinoni (http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/Feature_Bicycles/Feature_Bicycles_Canada/Marinoni_Quebec_Mine/MARINONI_QUEBEC_1_Start.htm)...
http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/Bicycles_Table/Canadian_Bicycles/Marinoni_Bicycles/MarinoniQuebec/Marinoni_Quebec_2/Mar_Que2_Lug_HT_1.jpg

I use Turtle Wax with carnuba, but illwafer is correct, it doesn't last very long if you're constantly using the bike. I wax my race bike about 2x a season because it's used daily. You can see the shine slowly disappear and the paint becomes matte (well mine does anyway since it's matte black underneath). FYI the liquid stuff is a little harder to use because there aren't any large flat surfaces like on a car.

I recall reading that Nu Finish provides the longest and best protection according to Consumer Reports' tests. Nu Finish contains no wax at all.

There are lots of good products out there. I'm not loyal to any brand. I suspect that you are paying more than you should for brands that spend a lot of money on advertising.

Check out autogeek.net - tons of great info from helpful car guys. I've used their advice to detail all my own cars this summer.
The difference between what they need to do and what you need to do is the amount of paint to correct. They typically use rotary buffers and dual action polishers to get the job done. You would be doing it all by hand, and using a lot less product. I think their store has sample product kits of product, so you could probably buy 3 or 4 types of product for same price of buying a big bottle of Turtle wax at the local auto store.

Here's a flow chart of what the pro details consider when they're going to detail a car:
http://www.autogeek.net/detailingtips.html

For a bike in bad condition that you really want to pop, I would wash, clay, use swirl remover, polish, glaze, and finally wax. In the world of car detailing the wax is LSP - last step product. The paint really has to be fully prepped in all previous steps before you top with wax.

However, I don't go that far with my bikes. Here's what I do in the spring and fall:
1. Wash - not with dish soap! Use Meguiers or other car-specific wash. These have oils and conditioners in them that gently clean the paint and add some oils to the paint.Also - DON'T use regular towels you have lying around the house to dry off the bike! These will put micro swirls into the paint causing the paint to be lifeless and dull. Buy a chamois or microfiber towel and use that and only that to dry the bike.
2. Clay - this sounds odd, but this stuff is amazing. It's somewhat like silly putty. You mash it into a flat pancake, spray the bike with a clay lube and rub the clay over the paint. This will REALLY make a huge difference! All the surface contaminates, dust, pollution, etc will come off on the clay. You'll be amazed at what the wash/soap won't remove and what comes off on the clay. It'll be yellow and brown, even if you just washed. You can buy a nice little Meguiers kit of clay and clay lube at the local auto zone here in the DC area for about 15 bucks. You can reuse clay by folding it over on itself. There's enough in that kit to last you 5+ years of bike cleaning.
3. Apply Klasse (or other) AIO - AIO stands for All In One. It's a gentle cleaner, polish, and sealant - you guessed it - all in one. It goes on like wax; wax on, wax off. Klasse is just the brand I like. There are others.
4. Wax. You don't even really need this after the AIO, but I like to apply wax. I use something on my cars and bikes called Collinite 845. It would be over kill to buy a big bottle just for a bike, so you could use Turtle wax, or what ever nice auto wax you have access to.

In between the spring and fall I just wash and dry. Maybe I'll add some AIO or wax if I'm up for it.

Hope this helps - ymmmv.

Thanks for the help everybody. I'm really excited to tackle this project soon. I'll keep you all posted on how it turns out. Pretty sure this one is going to be my winter project so I can take my time and do it right.