Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - New member/rider looking for advice

Hello BikeForums.net!

I've been riding my fixed gear for about a month now (on and off). The bike I have is a Retrospec Beta (frowned upon in the bike community?)

I've got a few questions that I hope experienced riders may give a little insight on:

I want to change my chain ring and cog. I feel that my 48T/16T gearing is too tall and difficult to go up hills and perform wheelies with. What cogs and chain rings are recommended? I've been reading around, and Shimano and Dura-Ace seem like good brands, but quite pricy.

Is my factory hub of bad quality? You can find the specs of my bike @ http://www.retrospecbicycles.com/el-diablo-beta-fixie/

If the information matters, I'm about 5'8", 155lbs and my bike frame size is 49cm.

You're 5'8" and riding a 49cm frame ? I'm 5'3" and ride a 49cm frame. That frame is tiny for you. As to gearing, don't bother changing the chainring and just get a larger 18T cog, which will lower your gearing a bunch and cost a lot less. A good brand is Soma, which you can find for under $20.

I felt comfortable getting a 49cm, as a 52cm felt different and awkward. The seller that I bought the bike from said I'm able to maneuver around in a smaller framed bike, as I will be mainly cruising and doing tricks on the bike.

And also, isn't it better to get a prime number tooth cog? so like a 19T? I figure I'd pick up skidding eventually.

49cm is tiny..

anyway, anything branded "fixie" is pretty much the "tribal" tattoo of this bike community. So yeah, not too many people are going to say you made the best decision (if you purchased the bike yourself.. and didn't get it used for extremely cheap)

In any case, it's your bike, it works I imagine and I'm going to assume you enjoy riding it. There's no good reason why you shouldn't. As far as changing the chainring and cog that is exactly what you need to change no matter what you feel about the gearing so good choice. Neighborhood admin Scrodzilla owns Retrogression and has a quality inexpensive cog and lockring you could use.

http://www.retro-gression.com/category/components-cogs-lockrings

Is it wise to use 1/8" tooth cogs on a 3/32" chain drive?

Is it wise to use 1/8" tooth cogs on a 3/32" chain drive?

No. You can use 1/8" chain on 3/32" a cog/chainring, but not the reverse, it simply won't fit. If all your hardware(including the chain) is 3/32", you'll need 3/32" parts or if you buy 1/8" parts, you'll need to buy a 1/8" chain as well.

And also, isn't it better to get a prime number tooth cog? so like a 19T? I figure I'd pick up skidding eventually.

Yes, 48T x 19T will give you 19 skid patches, whereas 48T x 18T will only give you 3. More importantly, it will give you lower gearing, which is what you want if you're doing a lot of tricks.

49cm is tiny. I'm 5"10 and ride 53cm. It's a teeny bit on the small side for me. If your feet are flat on the ground and you have more than 2cm clearance between your junk and the top tube, the frame's generally tiny. That's assuming that your bike doesn't have a weird bike geometry.

49cm with your stature means it's more maneuverable, yes, but it's the same argument I can use to buy a 19" TT BMX bike.
48 / 19 is a high ratio IMO if you can spin well / don't go fast that often, by all means. I ride 47 / 17 and I can skid fine (rode three weeks on fixie, can do seated skids when roads are wet)

Calculate your skid patches. Google Sheldon Brown if you don't know what this means.
If you want to pop wheelies, I suppose you can go really high like 46 / 19; I don't know what those guys use for their gearings.

If you can't skid on your gearing, get stronger. Or gear up. But really, get stronger. :D

Great. How much of a difference would it be if I switched to a 46T crank and a 17T cog? Do you recommend I keep the 48T crank and just change the cog? I was browsing that site, and it they don't have anything about 16T in 3/32".

They have it in the dura ace if you're willing to spend 4 more bucks

Sorry, I meant 17T. :x

Do you recommend I keep the 48T crank and just change the cog?


don't bother changing the chainring and just get a larger 18T cog, which will lower your gearing a bunch and cost a lot less. A good brand is Soma, which you can find for under $20.

What do you think? ;)

Then there it is, haha. I want to order from Retrogression; however they do not have 17T or 19T in 3/32". It appears Amazon has many made by brands I have not commonly seen.

Great. How much of a difference would it be if I switched to a 46T crank and a 17T cog? Do you recommend I keep the 48T crank and just change the cog? I was browsing that site, and it they don't have anything about 16T in 3/32".

It would make a decent difference to switch from 48/16 to 46/17. 46/17 is close to what *most* people like to ride on the street. If you're doing tricks you'll probably want it even higher. 46/19 would make you have lots of torque and skid patches. It wouldn't be that fast but it would be a lot better for tricks. I rode 32/18 (extremely low) on my single speed mountian bike and it was great for popping wheelies and stuff.

You might want to ask this question in a Fixed gear free style forum since there are very few of us here who deal with the tricking side of fg bikes. Not that we wouldn't love to have more, I just think we might not be the best at recommending trick track setups

Then there it is, haha. I want to order from Retrogression; however they do not have 17T or 19T in 3/32". It appears Amazon has many made by brands I have not commonly seen.
I got a 17t All City cog from a vendor on Amazon and it is significantly quieter than my 15t Dura Ace. There are other good brands.

How much did you get it for? http://www.amazon.com/All-City-Stainless-Track-Cog-17T/dp/B002VEKVRK/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1322632291&sr=1-2 It's 34 shipped for me.

Oh, as a side note - If i'm not mistaken most FGFS guys run an entire 1/8" drive train for strength.

Btw, you should post what JDM car you're driving :)

You might want to ask this question in a Fixed gear free style forum since there are very few of us here who deal with the tricking side of fg bikes. Not that we wouldn't love to have more, I just think we might not be the best at recommending trick track setups

Where's Michael Chacon's sweet edits when you need them.



Btw, you should post what JDM car you're driving :)

I have a retired Mazda RX-7 :)

How much did you get it for? http://www.amazon.com/All-City-Stainless-Track-Cog-17T/dp/B002VEKVRK/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1322632291&sr=1-2 It's 34 shipped for me.

http://www.amazon.com/All-City-17T-Standard-Track-Black/dp/B003RLK0LS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1

I was browsing that site, and it they don't have anything about 16T in 3/32".

If you're going to get a new cog that you'll most likely be using for a while I think it would be worth it to go ahead and get the 1/8th and pick up a 1/8th in. chain. They're a little more stout, stronger, etc.

Oh, as a side note - If i'm not mistaken most FGFS guys run an entire 1/8" drive train for strength.

Btw, you should post what JDM car you're driving :)

Wow, it would cost some bit to convert my drivetrain to 1/8", no? More than 200, haha.

And sadly right now, my ride is stock with window visors. I'm driving a pretty damn clean DEP CG6 Accord.

Wow, it would cost some bit to convert my drivetrain to 1/8", no? More than 200, haha.

And sadly right now, my ride is stock with window visors. I'm driving a pretty damn clean DEP CG6 Accord.

It'd be very cheap to convert to 1/8". Just buy the cog listed above(either silver or black), and a 1/8" chain. No big deal.

Come to think of it... since my frame size is "tiny" and an 1/8th in. drivetrain sounds stronger, I might as well sell my bike and build one from the ground up. But it's going to be hard to sell my fixie... I paid MSRP for it because I wanted red v-rims. Lol. It's hard enough for me to sell my 2 pairs of WeSC headphones.

It'd be very cheap to convert to 1/8". Just buy the cog listed above(either silver or black), and a 1/8" chain. No big deal.


The 1/8" chain will work alright the the stock 48T crank?

The 1/8" chain will work alright the the stock 48T crank?

Yes. There are plenty of people running 3/32" chainrings with 1/8" chains.

Yes. There are plenty of people running 3/32" chainrings with 1/8" chains.


I kinda don't want to customize this bike too much because I heard bad things about the hubs. Can you provide some insight on the kind of hub I have?

If you're up for it then yes sell and buy another bike. I'm sure most of us were thinking that but usually when anyone mentions it the new guy will get pissed off.

Getting most of what you paid would be worth it in the long run but of course it depends on how much you're willing to put into a new bike. There are a few threads devoted to affordable bikes because many of us aren't ballers. There are also a few threads for the ballers amongst us.

If you're up for it then yes sell and buy another bike. I'm sure most of us were thinking that but usually when anyone mentions it the new guy will get pissed off.

Getting most of what you paid would be worth it in the long run but of course it depends on how much you're willing to put into a new bike. There are a few threads devoted to affordable bikes because many of us aren't ballers. There are also a few threads for the ballers amongst us.


I myself am not a baller. I do like the concept of getting the most bang for buck. However, I do like the concept of building my own bike with the parts that I picked, so I know the in's and out's of my bicycle.

If I do sell my bike, I'll think I'll get about 200 for it... if I'm lucky. I'll look for some threads about the affordable bikes.

I kinda don't want to customize this bike too much because I heard bad things about the hubs. Can you provide some insight on the kind of hub I have?

I couldn't tell you what kind of hubs you have, but replacing the cog and chain is really not intense work, and is definitely reversible if you do and then decide you want to sell it. Just swap the stock cog/chain back on and sell it, throw your new stuff in the parts bin for another bike. Having extra cogs is always nice.

If you just want to sell it and start over it something else, go for it.

I couldn't tell you what kind of hubs you have, but replacing the cog and chain is really not intense work, and is definitely reversible if you do and then decide you want to sell it. Just swap the stock cog/chain back on and sell it, throw your new stuff in the parts bin for another bike. Having extra cogs is always nice.

If you just want to sell it and start over it something else, go for it.


Thanks for all the info, guys. I think I'm going to sell it...

Good idea. You'll have a lot more fun and be a lot happier with a bike you build yourself. While it may be expensive, we can help you steer you in the right direction.

Are you allowed to mention if you're selling frame in the forums, I couldn't find anything in the rules regarding so unless I'm blind. If it is against it, I will delete this post or just disregard it.

Can't sell things or offer trades anywhere but the marketplace.

OP: Might I suggest just purchasing a new frameset, and recycling your existing parts? EightInch (http://www.cyclingcloseouts.com/Products/EighthInch-Scrambler-V3-Frameset__scrambler_v3_frameset.aspx) has a nice deal on a frameset right now which would be suitable for someone looking to do some light tricking.

Slight derail, but are there any disadvantages to using a 3/32 cog on an otherwise 1/8 drivetrain setup?

Slight derail, but are there any disadvantages to using a 3/32 cog on an otherwise 1/8 drivetrain setup?

Possibly noisier, but it's not something that you're likely to notice.

we can help you steer you in the right direction.

pun intended?

Slight derail, but are there any disadvantages to using a 3/32 cog on an otherwise 1/8 drivetrain setup?

I feel like somebody asks this question every day.

I couldn't tell you what kind of hubs you have, but replacing the cog and chain is really not intense work, and is definitely reversible if you do and then decide you want to sell it. Just swap the stock cog/chain back on and sell it, throw your new stuff in the parts bin for another bike. Having extra cogs is always nice.

If you just want to sell it and start over it something else, go for it.


I was suggested that I ride the crap out of my bike and get the best of it, so I think I'm going to postpone the sale and do a 1/8th conversion. I'm stuck between picking the KMC Z710 and the Z710SL... are there any cons to the SL version? And do you know of any promo codes for Retrogression?:D

I was suggested that I ride the crap out of my bike and get the best of it, so I think I'm going to postpone the sale and do a 1/8th conversion. Do you know of any promo codes for Retrogression?:D

It's not a bad idea. I don't know of any codes, but his prices are generally lower than other retailers to begin with.

I edited my previous post, adding "I'm stuck between picking the KMC Z710 and the Z710SL... are there any cons to the SL version?" What can you say about it?

Slight derail, but are there any disadvantages to using a 3/32 cog on an otherwise 1/8 drivetrain setup?

I have 3/32 chain ring. The bike feels/sounds no different than when I had a 1/8 ring


I edited my previous post, adding "I'm stuck between picking the KMC Z710 and the Z710SL... are there any cons to the SL version?" What can you say about it?

I ride a Z710 and Scrod rides the SL, we had a short conversation about it when I got the chain. The SL is the "road" version because they made it lighter. You see the same cut outs in many other chains

I edited my previous post, adding "I'm stuck between picking the KMC Z710 and the Z710SL... are there any cons to the SL version?" What can you say about it?

I run the KMC710SL and I like it; it works like a chain should. I'm not sure what the non-SL version is, other than the plates not having the same cutouts in them as the 710SL.

I run the KMC710SL and I like it; it works like a chain should. I'm not sure what the non-SL version is, other than the plates not having the same cutouts in them as the 710SL.

48/21T 1/8" ring and cog setup- massive torque? Lol. The setup is going to cost me 30 for the cog and chain via Retrogression.

Should I pick this up while I'm at it? http://www.retro-gression.com/product/used-fsa-pro-track-chainring-47t

48/21 will give you about 60 gear inches. 47/21 will give you about 62 gear inches. Probably not worth the extra $45 by buying the 47t chainring.

I'm not into tricking, but I rode my friends Origin 8 Brutus, which has 36/16 gearing (about 59 gear inches) and it's intended to be a freestyle bike. I'd say(without guarantee) that 48/21 would be good for what you want to do, just be aware that you're going to spin out pretty quickly. Going down large hills is going to have your legs moving frighteningly fast, and you'll have a hard time keeping up with someone on a higher gear ratio without a real high cadence.

48/21 will give you about 60 gear inches. 47/21 will give you about 62 gear inches. Probably not worth the extra $45 by buying the 47t chainring.

I'm not into tricking, but I rode my friends Origin 8 Brutus, which has 36/16 gearing (about 59 gear inches) and it's intended to be a freestyle bike. I'd say(without guarantee) that 48/21 would be good for what you want to do, just be aware that you're going to spin out pretty quickly. Going down large hills is going to have your legs moving frighteningly fast, and you'll have a hard time keeping up with someone on a higher gear ratio without a real high cadence.
I think I'm going for a 47/19. At my current setup, I am almost able to do wheelies. With my current setup, I get 78.8gear inches, and 1 skid patch. With a 47/19, I get 65 gear inches and 19 skid patches. Plus, hills won't be as difficult as the 48/21 setup. What are your thoughts?

Should I pick this up while I'm at it? http://www.retro-gression.com/product/used-fsa-pro-track-chainring-47t

If you do, you'll need a crankset with a 144mm bcd (bolt circle diameter (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html)) to put it on.

If you do, you'll need a crankset with a 144mm bcd (bolt circle diameter (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html)) to put it on.

Oh. I don't think I'd want to invest in a new crankset. You're out of 19T Cro-mo track cogs that are on sale for $14?

That must be a mistake. We have a pile of them. I'll make sure it gets fixed.

That must be a mistake. We have a pile of them. I'll make sure it gets fixed.


GREAT. I've wanted the cog in chrome, and the price is attractive. The gear inches sound like the setup would work for me. Let me know when you update it so I may purchase the 1/8" chain and 19T cog. :)

Are there any current discount codes that are out? Just wondering before I place the order.

Done!

48/19 is a great all-around gear ratio. Coming from 78.8gi, I think you'll be stoked.