Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - How far forward can the axle be in the dropout?

I'm just about finished with converting my old road bike to a fixie, but I've got a question. How far forward in the dropout can you safely set the axle? With my setup I'm either too far back in the drop out to get proper chain tension or if I remove a link, I feel like the axle is too far forward. The entire axle is within the drop out, but a good portion on the locknut is not touching the frame. How far is it safe to go? I've read about 1/2 links of chain and I could get a new sprocket, but I'm trying to do this bike on the cheap and I already dropped over $150 bucks on a new IRO wheel, Dura-ace sprocket, lock-ring, etc.

Thanks,

Dave

With horizontal road dropouts I'd rather be further back than towards the front opening. But with trackends (rear opening dropouts) the opposite would be true.
That half link would put you in the right spot.

You may need a new chain ring or cog to adjust this. Show a pic of it if possible. Basically if you think about it the only 'air space' you have on the tightened nuts is the space between the drop outs; the axel gap. If any more of that is exposed like if you are too far forward and the bottom drop out edge is rolled under the track nut than your living dangerously imo.

With horizontal road dropouts I'd rather be further back than towards the front opening. But with trackends (rear opening dropouts) the opposite would be true.
....

I agree. I say file/grind your dropouts just a wee bit deeper. I bet there is enough material to play with, considering you most likely have some eyelets and other extra junk back there. Hmmmm. Scope it out and report back.

Wow! Three good replies in under an hour! This forum is great. Thanks for taking care of me on my first post.

I'm convinced that my current setup is unsafe. I'll try to deepen the dropouts to give me enough room. I don't need much more tension, so I think this'll work. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

Thanks again,

Dave

actually, the half link may still be the cheapest option. Call your lbs and see if you can get one, it should be around 5 bucks.

I have a similar problem-- currently living "dangerously" with axle a little more forward than I would like.

Are there any compatibility issues with half-links?

I mean, as long as it is 3/32, it will fit any 3/32 chain right?

I just slapped a half link on a singlespeed project last night. $2.50 solution.

change cogs with +/- one tooth for fine adjustment.
One link = 1/2 inch axle travel
1/2 link = 1/4 inch
1 tooth = 1/8 inch

My next chain will be entirely half links. Manny more options. I think they are under $20.

Link to half link:
http://www.albes.com/browseproducts/ALLIANCE-HALF-LINK.HTML
Link to chain made entirely of half links:
http://www.albes.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1296

Holy shize! I've never seen one of those. I wonder which way it is supposed to wrap around your chainring. I suppose you would want the links passing from narrow to wide as you pedal forward.

They say this is *stronger*. I wonder if that is true. Has anyone used one of these?

I'm convinced that my current setup is unsafe. I've ridden with my setup as you described, axle fully in the drops but not 100% contact on the nuts. Never had it slip. One reason I think this could be is because horizontal drops aren't really horizontal, but angled. When you pull forward you are really pulling straight against the angled drop, so it's tougher to move. Combined with a good pair of tracknuts and tightened up nicely you shouldn't have a problem.

Also, if you grab a new chain (assuming yours is worn), you should be able to use the rearward position fine.

But if you use a new chain, when the chain stretches in a ride or two, your SOL, and back to sqaure 1. A very qucik fix which won't last.

But if you use a new chain, when the chain stretches in a ride or two, your SOL, and back to sqaure 1. A very qucik fix which won't last.I can stretch a chain in a ride or two, but not to the degree where it is when it's truly worn out. It takes a while for that sort of stretch to happen. When it does, it's time for a new chain anyway.

What i'm talking about is the intitial *stretch* from when you buy a new chain, and all the pins/roller/plates wear into each othr for the first time. After that intiatail stretch, chains wear out very... slowly.

What i'm talking about is the intitial *stretch* from when you buy a new chain, and all the pins/roller/plates wear into each othr for the first time. After that intiatail stretch, chains wear out very... slowly.I agree. I'm guessing that even after that initial stretch, he'll still have enough room to snug things up.

I'd give another recommendation for the half link. Certainly safer than risking having the wheel too far forward. And if/when you get chain stretch, you can take the half link out.

I've gotten up to 1/4" of stretch from a new chain in the break in period. I know because that's how much i had to re-adjust my wheel by, but luckily i had lotsa room in the dropouts...

My next chain will be entirely half links.
I saw somewhere that a BMX company just came out with one of those last year.
I think it was like $35. way less than buying all the links one by one.

tim

I have a link for it higher on the page

Holy shize! I've never seen one of those. I wonder which way it is supposed to wrap around your chainring. I suppose you would want the links passing from narrow to wide as you pedal forward.

They say this is *stronger*. I wonder if that is true. Has anyone used one of these?
They say that it reduces stress on the side plates.. and in bmx theres a trick called a sproket stall which is where you jump unto a ledge on your chainwheel and then jump off.. Photo..http://www.twoand8.com/Team/Kye_Forte/Thumbs/Thumb_BY_Derby_02.jpg
There are also sprocket grinds where you slide on ledges on your chain-wheel so bmx chains have to be stronger in the being bashed into a concrete ledge sense of the word rather than just from regular riding stress.

I'd suggest the halflink. Works as promised and expected on my fixie and on my singlespeed mtb. Prior to that I also ran my rear wheel with less than 100% of the nuts touching the dropouts. And I ran a quick release skewer too! Talk about living on the wild side....

Thanks for all the great feedback. Here's how it turned out:

After reading some other posts I realized that my chain probably had sufficient tension with the extra link. What I thought was a loose chain problem was in fact a loose lock ring and sprocket. I thought the skipping action of the sprocket loosening and tightening was chain related (forgive my noobness). I added a link back in, tightened up the sprocket and lockring good and tight and set my chain tension. It's working great! I love this bike - best $150 I've ever spent. I'll post a pic soon. Fixies take some getting used to, eh?

Thanks again,

Dave