Foo - Removing Wood Stove: How Do I Cap the Pipe in the Wall?

I know that if I knew what terms to search for, then I could help myself, but I don't know what words to use, so FOOniverse it is!

We have a wood-burning stove in our basement. Previous owners had used it, but we are never going to use it (not to mention it is stamped as needing 21 1/8" of clearance while there is only 7" of clearance, and the wallboard is normal drywall, and I could go on and on). So, I am going to start taking apart to remove it and make the space a closet.

The only question is: How do I "cap-off" where the pipe from the stove goes into the wall?

Do I simply get a cap the size of the hole/pipe and stick it on there?

Do I seal it in any way?

Do I need to do anything to the chimney on the roof?

It can't be that hard to do, whatever the solution is.

Thank, y'alls!

I would say you can cap it, top and bottom. Should be a common size and you should be able to get caps at the hardware store. Secure the caps with self tapping screws if the pipe is just sheet metal.

You could buy caps at the hardware store, but you could also be eco-friendly and recycle that nasty fruitcake Aunt Martha gave you by shoving it in both ends of the pipe.

ask Ruben to come up and do it for you.

You could buy caps at the hardware store, but you could also be eco-friendly and recycle that nasty fruitcake Aunt Martha gave you by shoving it in both ends of the pipe.

Where I lived in WV it really was tin pie plates that people used to cap their stovepipes. With wires soldered on to make kind of a grabbing framework. Often they would paint decorative whatevers onto it, like a needlepoint (but painted on a pie plate and not stitched into a frame)

ask Ruben to come up and do it for you.

If you want to do it right, remove the vent, repair the outer wall, insulate, vapor barrier, repair inner wall. Just capping it will leave a great conductor of cold in to your basement.

If you want to do it right, remove the vent, repair the outer wall, insulate, vapor barrier, repair inner wall. Just capping it will leave a great conductor of cold in to your basement.

This is true. What if you capped the bottom, then filled the pipe with insulation and capped the top? He is looking for the easiest route.

... it will leave a great conductor of cold in to your basement.

So, no need to add a 220v outlet for the A/C. Or buy a 220v extension cord, for that matter.

This is true. What if you capped the bottom, then filled the pipe with insulation and capped the top? He is looking for the easiest route.

Correct; I just want to take the stove out and cap the pipe off.

I don't care about the temp in the basement. It's already so cold...

I would say you can cap it, top and bottom. Should be a common size and you should be able to get caps at the hardware store. Secure the caps with self tapping screws if the pipe is just sheet metal.

So, no need to seal it up around the cap or anything?

I guess it is easier than I thought after all.

Grid of duct tape over the hole, smear spackle over the whole thing.

Oh! Put a time capsule inside! The next time someone does work in that area, they can see what life was like seven months ago!

So, no need to seal it up around the cap or anything?

I guess it is easier than I thought after all.

You could seal it easily with some caulk when you apply the cap. To be fair though, as others have said, the best practice would be to remove the pipe and restore that vapor barrier as much as possible.

I don't care about the temp in the basement. It's already so cold...
but is it cold because of the large heat sink/stove pipe?

If you really don't care, just cap it and forget it but a building inspector will want it removed if you eventuallly sell the home. Locally, there is no building code that addresses this, just for installation and removal but not just removing the stove and capping a vent. Probably because it is considered a temporary repair. I would check in your building codes.

You could seal it easily with some caulk when you apply the cap. To be fair though, as others have said, the best practice would be to remove the pipe and restore that vapor barrier as much as possible.


but is it cold because of the large heat sink/stove pipe?
I dunno. The house was built in 1939. Did they have vapor barriers back then? :D

I dunno. The house was built in 1939. Did they have vapor barriers back then? :D

Back then insulation was wadded up newspapers in the wall. I've seen lots of older houses that had the wood stove taken out and it's just a pie plate covering the hole.

Nobody suggested stuffing it with dead cats?

Come on, people.

Nobody suggested stuffing it with dead cats?

Come on, people.

That is just a given.

Nobody suggested stuffing it with dead cats?

Come on, people.

Yes that would work if you gut them first of smelly entrails and this would cost less than foam/fiberglass.

Why would anyone remove a woodburner and devaluate the house instead of keeping it in working order?This guy lives in the Artic Circle for Christs sake,it's not that difficult to fix.

I'd cap it, then if you ever go to sell the place, list it as a "feature".

"The work is already done if you wish to add a woodburner in the basement" (In best sleazebag realtor voice) :D

I'd stuff an old Nerf ball in it!

Move the whole house, leaving the stove pipe behind.

Why would anyone remove a woodburner and devaluate the house instead of keeping it in working order?This guy lives in the Artic Circle for Christs sake,it's not that difficult to fix.
Despite the age of the house, this isn't the original woodstove. It's some thing a previous owner added when they put up walls in the basement to "finish" it. The regular drywall'd walls around the stove are only 7 1/2" away from the stove when the stove is clearly stamped as needing 21 1/8" of clearance, so we can't use the stove anyway (although it's clearly been used), and we can't move the walls to give it more clearance. So, we are taking it out to make it a closet, thus having a 4th bedroom (door, ceiling, floor, egress already there).

Get a 15" extension to the elbow.

You can't play your music if the "instrument" is frozen.

ask Ruben to come up and do it for you.

Unless you want to use the existing pipe to run some cat5 cable, the standard puertorican method of choice is to caulk the bottom part and pour concrete from the top until you can pour no more. We really no likey creating habitats for creepy critters and small mammals. But given you live in gringoland, where every wall is hollow, caulking both ends should suffice.

Also, an alternate idea:

http://static.ddmcdn.com/gif/photonic-mast-periscope2.jpg