Classic & Vintage - 1970's Nishiki International

Hello! My name's Ibarra, 16 from the bay area. I've had this nishiki international for about 2 1/2 year now. I did some small research when I first got the bike to figure out it was a 83 but thats the farthest I got. When I got the bike It had on suntour cyclone deraileurs, suntour downtube shifters (The ones that had a detatchable mount that actually bolted unto the downtube instead of the shifters attatching directly to the downtube), some 27" araya wheels, dia compe 500 brakes, dia compe brake levers and sugino gs cranks.

I rode the bike for about a year and replaced all the cables, re-packed the hubs, got some tektro brake levers with comfy rubber hoods, and koolstop salmons. There came a point when something didn't feel right with the bike and I took it to a shop, it turned out that something inside the rear hub came loose. So I decided to start a 700c conversion on it. I had the bike for a week but made a stupid mistake of not tightening the rear skewer enough and while climbing out of the saddle, the wheel popped out and bent it irreversably out of true.

Ever since its been sitting in my room due to a fixie which i've had for a year that had taken it's place out of necessity (I commute to school which is a 14mi round trip).

Well for a while I've been wanting to re-build the bike into a nice comfy tourer/city bike. My question is, Is the frame worth rebuilding and putting some fresh-er components/ better wheelset on? I was thinking an old-er shimano 600 or dura-ace 6600 components. Hopefully while still maintaining the downtube shifting system.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3277/5801759331_6a27912b2e_b.jpg
Back when it was still running

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7004/6604526885_9edc292aca_b.jpg
Current state

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7016/6604527031_84145d7fc7_b.jpg
If possible could you give me some info from this code? I remember finding some stuff
about it a while back. KC35904

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7019/6604527155_59af32d5de_b.jpg
Sticker Headbadge

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7145/6604527267_a75795d1a5_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7151/6604527369_b6dbbcd8aa_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7032/6604527483_31a3e0cae5_b.jpg
I was wondering if this was of any significance? The handcrafted thing.

So yeah, I was just wondering if it's worth rebuilding or should I look for a newer bike to use as a base. Also I would if possible like to know if there's anything significant about the frame itself. Thank you :)

Holy crap. I just realized I posted this in the wrong area. Sorry

Nishikis (a trading name) were made by Kawamura Bicycles in Japan and then by Giant in Taiwan and believe most would give the edge to Kawamura when it came to building the better frame and when it comes to vintage steel this is a very nice frame and fork with some very nice components.

The Cyclone parts are about as nice as they come and if you like friction shifting there is not reason to change things... with a new rear wheel you are probably golden.

Owning a 1983 Nishiki Int'l, I am admittedly biased, but that being said, I would not put any Shimano 600 or DA parts on it.

The frame and components are perfectly matched, and as a package, it is, IMO, the best of breed for an 80's Japanese sport tourer.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh117/auchencrow/Nishiki%20International/NishikiInternational_1983_1.jpg

How would I go about finding a new rear wheel? Lbs? Im not exactly sure what I should be looking for to find a hub that I can mount the 5spd cassette to. Any wheel set reccomendations?

How would I go about finding a new rear wheel? Lbs? Im not exactly sure what I should be looking for to find a hub that I can mount the 5spd cassette to. Any wheel set reccomendations?

It came with 27" red label Araya rims which are pretty plentiful. Ebay is a potential source. There are decent aftermarket rims as well like the Sun CR18s but you'll need to match the set.

It's a nice double butted frame, definitely worth building up again. I'd probably just use the original Cyclone components which were pretty good at the time. It looked great before, I'm sure it can be great again. Just swap out anything you weren't happy with using the parts of your choice. No need for 600 or Dura Ace (BTW Dura Ace is a 7xxx number, so like 7400, 7700, etc.)

No idea on the "handcrafted" thing, I'm not a frame expert. I'm sure someone else will know.

The Nishiki International is a very nice bicycle, however; I have seen it offered in different variations. I have had Internationals with both caliper and cantilevered brakes. Needless to say, I prefer the cantilevered...
http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/Bicycles_Table/Japanese_Bicycles/Nishiki_Bicycles/Nishiki_International_47/Nish_Inter_47_AF_Brake_F_1.jpg

The Nishiki International (http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/Feature_Bicycles/Feature_Bicycles_Japan/Nishiki_International/NISHIKI_INTER_1_Start.htm) pictured is of 1984 vintage and one of three or four that have come my way. Two had calipers and two had cantis.
http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/Bicycles_Table/Japanese_Bicycles/Nishiki_Bicycles/Nishiki_International_47/Nish_Inter_47_AF_Full_TQF_3.jpg

If you need a wheel set, or even a complete Shimano 600 group (http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/Feature_Bicycles/Feature_Bicycles_Canada/Velo_Sport_Criterium/Velo_Sport_Criterium_3_Shimano600Components.htm), including wheels, send me a private email or email me through my website, MY "TEN SPEEDS". I will do my best to assist...
http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/Components_Table/Shimano_600_Arabasque_Grouppo/ShimArabasqueGrouppo.jpg

I was wondering if this was of any significance? The handcrafted thing.

So yeah, I was just wondering if it's worth rebuilding or should I look for a newer bike to use as a base. Also I would if possible like to know if there's anything significant about the frame itself. Thank you :)

Handcrafted means nothing. Its just a way for Kawamura to advertise that they actually built the bike, not Nishiki. Nishiki was one of dozens of brands back then that did not build their bikes, they just outsourced the production. Names like Univega, Lotus, Centurion, and Nishiki (there are more) all had others build their bikes. That does not make the bikes inferior, they often used good builders. And even brands that built their own bikes outsourced some of their production back then, like Schwinn and Trek.

Is it worth rebuilding? Sure, if you have the time/tools/aptitude/interest, and ability to find parts at a reasonable price. I have built up six Nishiki Internationals in the last two years, all were nice bikes, all went on to new homes.

On the code, google is your friend, there is a thread with all of the Nishiki serial numbers. And of course, you can check component codes as well.

Personally, I would not put DA components on that bike, that is overdoing it.

+1 I would look for some good Suntour parts, they are plentiful and are very reliable. Cyclone is great, sometimes expensive depending on generation (1st generation Cyclone tends to go high).

The International frame is an excellent base for a "comfy tourer/city bike". The existing parts are perfectly good, serviceable components. However a late 1980s 600 Ultegra or Dura-Ace group has several attractive features. The biggest feature, is the most contentious, and that is indexed shifting. You either love it or hate it. There is also the 7th cog. The rear freehub is stronger and easier to service. The SLR brakes have much better modulation and stopping power. However, the most important improvement in my mind are the HyperGlide cogs and chain, which vastly improve shifting performace. Of course, it is possible to use the existing components and just purchase a HyperGlide freewheel and chain but if you're going with a 700C conversion it may be just as cheap to get good, used wheels with a freehub, as it would be to get new rims laced onto the existing hubs.

The thing is, all these upgrades are going to cost money and trying to piece everything together may cost more than seeking out a good, used bicycle that has everything you want. The cheapest route and best value would be to buy a replacement rear wheel with freehub and HyperGlide cogs and a new chain.

I would definitely keep it and build it up. You have another bike, so there seems to be no rush. Make it a project to find the "right" components for your build. You can source the needed parts on Craigslist or a local bicycle co-op if there is one near you.

The frame is gorgeous, to me at least. I love the blue color and the paint and decals look to be in excellent condition, lugwork very nice, it's a keeper.

So take T-Mar's advice and just do the minimum to get it rideable. Cyclone is good stuff, very lightweight and functional. The new freewheel and chain will improve shifting nicely.

I also like the drilled cranks. The bike has a lot of character. Clean the frame, use some gentle buffing compound and then wax the heck out of it and it will last for many years.

I also agree with T-Mar's advice, just do the minimal to get it running. They still make 27"inch rims; here's one at Nashbar: http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/ProductDisplay?storeId=10053&langId=-1&catalogId=10052&productId=174762&utm_source=Google_Product_Search&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=datafeed&CAWELAID=858052409 Or go to an LBS and see if they can get on...they should be able to. Once you have the rim you might as well have it built right but using either DT Competition dble butted spokes or Wheelsmith dble butted spokes which cost less then DT and just as good. Then use brass nipples because the last longer. Reuse your hub since you didn't mention you had any problems with it.

There are still plenty of 27" tires on the market including Continental Gatorskins, so I wouldn't bother with going to 700c, and besides if you switch to 700c you could run into a nightmarish money pit depending on the bike frame setup.

I have several older bikes and love them, their extremely dependable, and Cyclone derailleurs are bullet proof and could last longer then you will!!!

The only thing you need to watch for is rust, I noticed a small amount of rust on the frame, polish that rust off with a fine piece of emery paper till the metal shines, then touch up with paint that matches the frame color. Or leave the rust because it's not threatening the frame and probably won't for many years. Or you could also get the bike repainted if you think the bike is worth it to you and either find the decals on the internet, or have the decals copied with either a computer that will make a vinyl transfer or air brush the decals with paint. Realize that if you get the bike painted you won't be able to sell the bike and get the cost of the painting etc back out of it, so the repainting thing would just be a personal thing. I have a bike that I owned for 28 years and I retired it early this year until I can get it repainted; but I'm want to do this to that bike because it was my last racing bike I had that I race with up until 24 years ago so it has sentimental value to me, so I want it to look new again. The rest of the bikes I have don't have that sentimental value so I probably would never get those others repainted.

Welcome to C&V good to see teenagers into these classics. The INT. wont disapoint, its a great all purpose bike. just pick up a wheel of a cheap donor bike from craigslist.

If the bike fits you properly your not going to do much better. And yeah, the cyclone is as good a friction shifter as you can get. When you get everything properly adjusted that bike will ride like a dream. 27 inch rims don't get a fair shake, throw a pair on with some panaracer paselas and you will be very happy.

Thank you for all your inputs, they were very helpful! It seems that i'm going to continue the build with the original parts (Well I'm planning on rebuilding and polishing them) and finding myself a new rear wheel. I appreciate it very much :) Happy New Year!

I shall probably continue updating the build on this end of the forums.

Thank you for all your inputs, they were very helpful! It seems that i'm going to continue the build with the original parts (Well I'm planning on rebuilding and polishing them) and finding myself a new rear wheel. I appreciate it very much :) Happy New Year! I'm going to probably continue the build on the other c&v forum.

Best way (cheapest) to find a wheelset for that bike? Either a donor bike, or put a WTB wheels in your local C/L. Be sure to put that listing in the bicycles for sale section. Yes, I know it is not a bicycle for sale, but that's where everybody looks. In rehabbing a couple of hundred bikes in the last few years, I have yet to have bought a single new wheel. I guess it will happen sometime. But I continue to find nice to very nice wheels used. When you add flexibility on speeds (everyone wants the 130mm rear spacing for 8/9/10 stuff, you can get by just fine with 125mm spacing) and flexibility on size (I prefer 700c, but 27 inch wheels are just fine too), you can find wheels really cheap. And almost all of the used wheels I find come with tires, tubes, QR skewers, and a rear freewheel or cassette.

The Nishiki International is a very nice bicycle, however; I have seen it offered in different variations. I have had Internationals with both caliper and cantilevered brakes. Needless to say, I prefer the cantilevered...

The International evolved over it's production life and just got better and better... the frames with canti mounts also came with a chain hangar on the seat stay and are quite suitable as an all rounder and tourer due to their robust builds and nice ride while under load.

@Sixty Fiver, is a chain hanger a little bolt that sticks out right above the drive side dropout? What does it do? because my frame has one too.

Actually nvm, sheldon helped me with it :P

@Sixty Fiver, is a chain hanger a little bolt that sticks out right above the drive side dropout? What does it do? because my frame has one too.

When you remove the rear wheel that little hook is for the chain and keeps it from dragging on the chainstay and makes re-installation easier... tends to be something you find on better frames.

I salvaged an International last spring and re-used the rear stays, dropouts, and fork to rebuild my folder... the main frame had been snapped in half so was beyond reasonable repair.

Is there any specific hub to look for to use the 5 speed cassette on? I'm not too sure on how their mounted on.

Unfortunately, both wheels are gone so I'm quite clueless on what I should be keeping my eye out for besides the wheel being 27".
I know a 5 speed cassette was on the rear wheel. By any chance how would I be able to figure out the spacing between the rear dropouts?

Well I'm starting on cleaning up the components. Using some de-greaser, then planning on using 1000-1200 grit sandpaper to wet sand, (is wet sanding needed?) and afterwards using Mothers to polish em. Are there any things I need to watch out for when doing this?

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7014/6609277023_2f01eca388_z.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7172/6609284389_81a4ff927b_z.jpg
I did some very light cleaning on these when I first got the bike. Basically took them apart, doused them in de-greaser then wiped them down.
So this time im hoping to get rid of the pitting using the sandpaper.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7021/6609284401_2dc4c4658a_z.jpg
Unfortunately I took a spill and gashed these a while back when I was learning how to use clips :P
What should I do about this? You guys think i'll be able to save it by sanding down or should I... :
*Find period-correct brake levers?
*try and sand them down?
*Use what I have (Which im pretty sure most of you would say :P)

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7151/6609284421_47eab1cae8_z.jpg
Does M-II mean these are 2nd gen? (Common sense says so, but It wont hurt asking :P)

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7150/6609284431_29b1d61e79_z.jpg

The Mk2 Cyclones should be cleaned and polished gently as the pantographing can be removed and unless there are obvious scratches would start with the Mother's before getting into any sanding... you will be amazed at what Mother's can do all by itself.

Is there any specific hub to look for to use the 5 speed cassette on? I'm not too sure on how their mounted on.

Unfortunately, both wheels are gone so I'm quite clueless on what I should be keeping my eye out for besides the wheel being 27".
I know a 5 speed cassette was on the rear wheel. By any chance how would I be able to figure out the spacing between the rear dropouts?

Its a freewheel, not a cassette. Totally different technology.

Best way (cheapest) to find a wheelset for that bike? Either a donor bike, or put a WTB wheels in your local C/L. Be sure to put that listing in the bicycles for sale section. Yes, I know it is not a bicycle for sale, but that's where everybody looks. In rehabbing a couple of hundred bikes in the last few years, I have yet to have bought a single new wheel. I guess it will happen sometime. But I continue to find nice to very nice wheels used. When you add flexibility on speeds (everyone wants the 130mm rear spacing for 8/9/10 stuff, you can get by just fine with 125mm spacing) and flexibility on size (I prefer 700c, but 27 inch wheels are just fine too), you can find wheels really cheap. And almost all of the used wheels I find come with tires, tubes, QR skewers, and a rear freewheel or cassette.

+1 I have had great luck finding good used built up with tires and freewheels for build. It is pretty easy if your just looking for good quality and don't get hung up on details. If your willing to be a bit flexible on gearing and or size and your willing to live with use a slightly miss matched set and aren't picky about having different model brand rims or hubs front and back you can get great wheelsets $30-40 easy by advertising often times with good tires and freeweel with a little bit of looking.

Ah I never knew there was a difference. Thanks for letting me know :)

If you need to acquire wheels I would suggest looking for some 130mm spaced road wheels with a cassette hub as then you have some nice options for gearing, will have a stronger axle in the rear, and could still run an 8 speed with the Cyclone rear d.

The 126 spacing on the Nishiki will allow for a modern 130mm road hub to be used as the stays do have enough spring for this.

If you need to acquire wheels I would suggest looking for some 130mm spaced road wheels with a cassette hub as then you have some nice options for gearing, will have a stronger axle in the rear, and could still run an 8 speed with the Cyclone rear d.

The 126 spacing on the Nishiki will allow for a modern 130mm road hub to be used as the stays do have enough spring for this.

I have a similar bike that I have road about 10,000 miles 10 mils a day or more for ten years and have gone through numerous wheelsets both 27's and 700s a 1980 model. The original shifters and brakes are just fine all you really need to do is find some wheels this bike should take almost any nicer vintage wheels 27's or 700's in 126 or 130 spacing with matching freewheel or casset which gives you a lot of options.

Merged the thread from Appraisals into this one.

Thank you cbad :) Happy New year! (Although its still two hours away)

Also be careful when you polish the bike frame, don't use and abrasive cleaner or abrasive cleaner wax on it or the decals may rub off. Use a non-abrasive cleaner, followed by a non abrasive wax which most are these days due to clear coats but make sure it says that. I like Meguiars stuff the best, I use nothing but that stuff on my classic cars, but Mothers would be my only second choice because the stuff is really good.

The bike is older so they probably didn't use a clear coat and they probably use nature paint instead of today synthetic paint, so I would use this for cleaning the paint up :http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/a3016-deep-crystalreg-system-paint-cleaner/ And then real wax formula like this stuff: http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g7016-gold-classtrade-liquid-wax/ The reason you should use a real wax is because natural paint breathes and it needs to keep breathing thus wax allows that to continue, synthetic polishes will keep the paint from breathing and the paint won't last as long. It's the reason a lot of classic car owners use natural wax if they have the original paint or had it repainted with the same natural paint. HOWEVER, natural wax does not last as long, so you should reapply it about once a year on a bicycle. There is also no need to rub hard with this wax just lightly do small circles a bunch of times.

Or use Mothers like this for cleaning: http://www.mothers.com/02_products/07100.html BUT, be careful with using this stuff because it does have a mild abrasive to it, so avoid decal areas!!! But it could help reduce the appearance if fine scratches. Then use this for the wax: http://www.mothers.com/02_products/05550-05750.html If you noticed I took you from step 1 to step 3, why not step 2 you scream, because it's a sealer and will prevent natural paint from breathing!

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/2758591042.html
Just got offered for about 150-175. Kind of at the top of my budget. Comes with pasella tgs. Would you guys think its worth it?

gOT TO BUMP YOU UP. Not familiar with these hubs.If in doubt dont buy. but they look ok a little pricey.

how did you make out..

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/2758591042.html
Just got offered for about 150-175. Kind of at the top of my budget. Comes with pasella tgs. Would you guys think its worth it?

Greetings from the Bay Area!

Let me see what I have for wheels. I might be able to donate something for a good cause if you're not too picky on brand. I have a 27" x 1" wheelset that would work well and they're alloy. Let me dig around the shop a bit.

Cheers,

-Collin-

This mid seventies Shields-Nishiki International, in near mint and obviously little used condition, showed up at the Dump today. I felt compelled to bring it home...
http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=232736&d=1325957228

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=232738&d=1325957265