Bicycle Mechanics - So, I basically did nothing now the brakes are messed up

I un-did the back cantilever brake my Tricross, installed a fender, re-attached the brakes and now they rub. Seriously? FML. Is not the fender. It's the left pad. What did indent screw this up and how do I fix it?


Also, I can't get front cross cable to disengage to take the wheel off. Any tips on that?

On the front cross cable, as you're trying to maneuver the head out of the arm, turn it 90° from its usual orientation.

On the rear, start by confirming the return springs are resting against the pegs on the arms as intended, and that the wheel is fully seated in both dropouts. If that's all good, look to see if the fender is interfering with the cross cable. If everything still seems to be correct, it was probably aliens, but most cantilever brakes have spring-adjuster screws on each arm to compensate for alien interference, so try those next :thumb:

I walked away for a while and went back. FULLY searing the wheel helped 90% but not perfect. Close enough for tonight. I tried the 90° thing with the front wheel but no dice. I tried to dislodge the cable on two other similarly equipped bikes: smooth as silk. Never mind putting on fenders. How the heck can I even fix a flat is I cant get the wheel off?

I walked away for a while and went back. FULLY searing the wheel helped 90% but not perfect. Close enough for tonight. I tried the 90° thing with the front wheel but no dice. I tried to dislodge the cable on two other similarly equipped bikes: smooth as silk. Never mind putting on fenders. How the heck can I even fix a flat is I cant get the wheel off?

One option is to let the air out of the tire so it can fit between the brake pads without disengaging the brakes, and remembering not to fill it beyond the marshmallow stage until after reinserting it past the brake pads.

Another option is to unclamp the straddle wire and fasten it down with sufficient looseness that you can remove the cable. Now use the adjuster barrel to remove that slack until the time comes when you need it. If there's no adjuster barrel present, install an inline barrel adjuster; they're useful anyway since your brake pads wear.

The brakes are designed so that you can dis-engage the yoke (straddle) cable and reconnect it easily to remove the wheel. Here are a few hints so you can do it reliably and confidently without problems.

1- get in the habit of always setting your wheels with the bike standing vertical on the ground. This lets gravity set the frame squarely on the axle, and gravity being so reliable, will ensure the wheel always returns to the same position.

2- there are two types of yoke systems. Some run the main cable past the yoke carrier to one brake arm, with a fixed length link running to the other. the more classic arrangement has the main cable end at the carrier, and the yoke running between the arms. The classic system allows the carrier to slide along the arms to slightly change centering, but don't count on this to much as they tend to find their home position over time.

3- pivot friction can affect the brakes centering, so take it out of the equation by putting a drop of oil on each pivot, letting it soak in and wiping off the excess.

4- Odds are your brakes were never centered perfectly in the first place, and the wheel's position set to the brake rather than the other way around. Now's the time to correct the centering using the balancing screws. First mount the wheel on the floor to find it's natural position, next, trial and error move the carrier sideways either way a bit to see where it naturally wants to float to, and now recenter the brakes by the balancing screw(s). Once you've done the job right you'll find it stays that way every time you replace the wheel.

Also, I occasionally run into bikes where the conical springs on the quick-release skewer are big-end-inwards on one side, or both sides. This prevents the axle from sitting properly in the dropout and can have a surprisingly large effect for such a tiny piece of wire. If you had your skewer springs off, make sure they're small-end-inwards.

Also, I occasionally run into bikes where the conical springs on the quick-release skewer are big-end-inwards on one side, or both sides. This prevents the axle from sitting properly in the dropout and can have a surprisingly large effect for such a tiny piece of wire. If you had your skewer springs off, make sure they're small-end-inwards.

Good point, and reinforces the importance of properly seating the axle onto the dropouts, or my way, seating the frame onto the wheels. Small variations in wheel position will move the rim across by roughly 5 times the error at the axle.

While I'm at it, let me add that the enemy of consistent wheel position is a bent axle. This will change the position depending on the orientation of the axle and can make you think you're going crazy. If you cannot get consistent wheel position check for a bent axle before you take up drinking.

Thank you for all the tips. I tried rotating the cable-end but it still didn't work. I am lax to "adjust" any thing on this bike,as it is basically brand new and is "supposed to" work as it's designed. Sad to say, I am open to the idea that it is operator era is to blame before the manufacturer. I won't get to look at it again until tomorrow. I have to try to figure out how to mount the front fender too!

If it looks like this one (http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=45903&eid=4670), is there a cable adjuster on the top of the fork-mount cable stop? Adjust it all the way in to give you the slack you need to unhook the brake; re-set it back to where it was after you're done. Failing that, if it's slotted, you may be able to squeeze the brakes together to the rim and remove the housing from the stop. That will also give you the slack you need.