Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Picking up first fixy tomorrow, any advice?

What's up everyone,


New to the FG world, but am tired of getting everywhere on foot. I was thinking about buying a used car and decided to go with this option instead (gas prices, insurance, environment, health, etc.) I went to a local shop today before I found this forum and i was looking at a 2011 model of a Fuji Declaration. If I go with that option it's gonna be $445 out the door, but being that I'm still relatively new to this area your advice would be awesome :D

I'm open to other bikes, but this one was a complete which I can start off with and upgrade as I get more and more involved in the fixed community. I figure if I start with a complete I'll figure out pretty quickly what I do and don't like and then I can start saving up to build my next bike from scratch.

I really want to hear your input, good or bad, just let it be constructive. I also checked out the newby sticky on the top of the threads before posting this. The link for finding the bike that works for me seems cool, but the last thing that was posted in there was from 2010.

So all advice is welcome:thumb:

-djsfix

Good call on the Fuji. Not a bad rig. First bits of advice: Get a helmet, and wear it. Mine has saved my life many times. Get a better lock than you think you'll need. Learn how to change/patch a flat, and get all necessary tools. Stop calling them "fixy"s.

Welcome.

It looks like an overpriced hiten "fixie" that I wouldn't spend half that much on it. Not worth upgrading. If you can spend that much you can do much better.

It's double butted CroMo. I say worth it, but worth is subjective.

Kilo TT.

It's double butted CroMo. I say worth it, but worth is subjective.

Where do you find that. What I saw is that it's a Fuji Feather and weighs about 24 1/2 pounds, which is pretty heavy for a DB frame. Are we talking about the same bike ? Maybe Scrod will know.

get a road bike

Like jimmytango said, whatever bike you get, be sure you use a sturdy U-lock (here (http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Mini-Bike-U-Lock/dp/B000AMPRG0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1326262559&sr=8-1)'s a popular one) so your bike doesn't get stolen when you're away from it.

Where do you find that. What I saw is that it's a Fuji Feather and weighs about 24 1/2 pounds, which is pretty heavy for a DB frame. Are we talking about the same bike ? Maybe Scrod will know.

http://www.fujibikes.com/bike/details/declaration-usa

Good call on the Fuji. Not a bad rig. First bits of advice: Get a helmet, and wear it. Mine has saved my life many times. Get a better lock than you think you'll need. Learn how to change/patch a flat, and get all necessary tools. Stop calling them "fixy"s.

Welcome.
What's up Jimmy, yeah I'm probably going to pick the Declaration up unless someone can explain why it would be a bad option. I'll be commuting, 30 miles round trip minimum, five to six days a week so the opportunity to get hit is pretty high (helmet will be a must) Any recommendations on locks and tool kits? Haha, the only reason I call it a "fixy" is because that's what I know them as. Would road bike be a less newb label? Thanks again Tango, I appreciate the input.

It looks like an overpriced hiten "fixie" that I wouldn't spend half that much on it. Not worth upgrading. If you can spend that much you can do much better.
Hey Tejano, thanks for the reply, but can you explain why you wouldn't spend half as much on the Fuji and why it isn't worth upgrading so I have a better understanding of why I should avoid buying it tomorrow? Also, can you recommend something that you would spend that much on and why?

Kilo TT.
Striknein do you have a Kilo TT yourself?

Where do you find that. What I saw is that it's a Fuji Feather and weighs about 24 1/2 pounds, which is pretty heavy for a DB frame. Are we talking about the same bike ? Maybe Scrod will know.
From the background work I've done your saying that the Declaration is just the "Feather" with a different name, correct? Pleaaaaaase follow up with your posts so I can actually learn from what you're saying. Like I said I'm new to this scene and I would like to have a solid foundation to build off of.

Thank you everyone for responding to my post, I value all your input,

-djsfix

Like jimmytango said, whatever bike you get, be sure you use a sturdy U-lock (here (http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Mini-Bike-U-Lock/dp/B000AMPRG0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1326262559&sr=8-1)'s a popular one) so your bike doesn't get stolen when you're away from it.

Thanks for the recommendation Pink!

-djsfix

I have the Motobecane Messenger, which is equivalent to the Fuji for $300 mail order from bikesdirect >>> http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/messenger_x.htm It weighs less than the Fuji.

If you're going to ride 30 miles, then drop bars with hooded levers make more sense than fixie riser bars. I think the Fuji is overpriced. You can buy a Kilo TT Pro for $400, which has a much better quality frame and wheelset, or better yet for $440 get a Kilo WT with wide tires and room for fenders and a rack.

I have the Motobecane Messenger, which is equivalent to the Fuji for $300 mail order from bikesdirect >>> http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/messenger_x.htm It weighs less than the Fuji.

If you're going to ride 30 miles, then drop bars with hooded levers make more sense than fixie riser bars. I think the Fuji is overpriced. You can buy a Kilo TT Pro for $400, which has a much better quality frame and wheelset, or better yet for $440 get a Kilo WT with wide tires and room for fenders and a rack.

Awesome Tejano,

Well I checked with bikesdirect and unfortunately for me they're sold out of the 56cm that I would need, so that blows. Thank you for the input on the bars, levers, bikes, etc. amigo it's nice hearing peoples advice when they have experience. On the Kilo TT and WT both look good, but they don't have the bike in my size (56cm).

I'm noticing the label "track" and "road" what's the biggest difference between the two?

-djsfix

Careful on the sizing. The Kilo TT is sized center to center, so if you ride 56cm center to top, then you need 53cm center to center. The Kilo WT is sized center to top, however. How did you decide you need a 56cm frame ? Don't pay any attention to the track .vs. road labels. They have no meaning in this discussion.

Careful on the sizing. The Kilo TT is sized center to center, so if you ride 56cm center to top, then you need 53cm center to center. The Kilo WT is sized center to top, however. How did you decide you need a 56cm frame ? Don't pay any attention to the track .vs. road labels. They have no meaning in this discussion.

I'm still picking up on all the terms (center to center/center to top), I decided on the 56cm frame today when i was riding a few different size frames at the shop I was referred to. At first I tested a 54, but I felt to crammed on the bike, when I rode the Declaration it was a 56 and it felt good. Okay, I'll ignore the track/road part. Actually if I'm avoiding the track vs road labels how would this bike compare http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/track.htm ?

-djsfix

Yes, 56cm on that bike is the same as what you test rode. Basicially, the frame size is normally the length of the seat tube from the center of the cranks to the top where the seatpost is clamped. That is refered to as c-t (center to top). Rarely, a few bikes like the Kilo TT are measure from the center of the cranks to the intersection with the top tube, and that is referred to as c-c (center to center). As to the Moto Track, I don't recommend it as it only comes with a rear brake, and you want a front brake when riding fixed on the road. Like I said, if you want to pay less, consider the Moto Messenger, which is available in blue in 56cm. and costs $300. You will have to buy a fixed cog and lockring, as it is supplied only with a freewheel standard. Understand that with the cheaper bikes you get cheaper wheels with cheaper hubs that require adjustment and maintenance and aren't very smooth.

Yes, 56cm on that bike is the same as what you test rode. Basicially, the frame size is normally the length of the seat tube from the center of the cranks to the top where the seatpost is clamped. That is refered to as c-t (center to top). Rarely, a few bikes like the Kilo TT are measure from the center of the cranks to the intersection with the top tube, and that is referred to as c-c (center to center). As to the Moto Track, I don't recommend it as it only comes with a rear brake, and you want a front brake when riding fixed on the road. Like I said, if you want to pay less, consider the Moto Messenger, which is available in blue in 56cm. and costs $300. You will have to buy a fixed cog and lockring, as it is supplied only with a freewheel standard. Understand that with the cheaper bikes you get cheaper wheels with cheaper hubs that require adjustment and maintenance and aren't very smooth.

Thanks for breaking it down the c-t and c-c for me Tejano. I really want to pick up that Moto Messenger, but in Black (unfortunately blue isn't a color that you want to be rolling around with in my area) gotta stay safe. Well this is a crappy situation cause I want to get a bike tomorrow, but I don't want to waste my money on a subpar product that I will be using daily. What do I do Tejano?!?!?

-djsfix

You can get a Windsor Clockwork in 56cm black for $300 >>> http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/clockwork.htm Similar bike to the Messenger, and same quality.

You can get a Windsor Clockwork in 56cm black for $300 >>> http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/clockwork.htm Similar bike to the Messenger, and same quality.
Yeah I was looking at the clockwork, but wasn't sure since you hadn't brought it up prior. I figured since it was made of steel that an aluminum option would be more efficient. When it says it has a flip/flop hub that means I won't need to pick up the fixed cog and lockring, right? Since I'm saving money by picking up one of these is there any upgrade parts I should pick up as well to start off with?

-djsfix

You will still need to buy a cog and lockring. Flip flop hub just means the hub is threaded on both sides for a freewheel on one side and a fixed cog / lockring on the other. Those models only include a freewheel, but the bike will be rideable until you can get a fixed cog and flip the rear wheel. About the only upgrade you'll probably want is better pedals with clips and straps. The stock ones totally suck. Since you'll be buying the cog anyway, I'd recommend getting a 17 or 18 tooth so you won't have trouble with hills and headwinds. I found the saddle to be ok on mine, but that's just a personal thing.

You will still need to buy a cog and lockring. Flip flop hub just means the hub is threaded on both sides for a freewheel on one side and a fixed cog / lockring on the other. Those models only include a freewheel, but the bike will be rideable until you can get a fixed cog and flip the rear wheel. About the only upgrade you'll probably want is better pedals with clips and straps. The stock ones totally suck. Since you'll be buying the cog anyway, I'd recommend getting a 17 or 18 tooth so you won't have trouble with hills and headwinds. I found the saddle to be ok on mine, but that's just a personal thing.

So I was looking at the Clockwork and then I came across The Hour, what's your take on those two side by side? I like the cleaner look to The Hour and it is cheaper then the Clockwork while they look like they both have the same quality parts on them. The Hour already comes with the fixed cog although it doesn't have brakes. I could just pick up a front break set and mount it myself.

All this aside, I feel like a little kid running around toys-r-us, lol.

-djsfix

The difference is only $20 and a front brakeset will cost more than that. Also, the stock cog is 16T, which is going to be very high gearing for city riding, stop and go. Anyway, gotta go to bed now.

The difference is only $20 and a front brakeset will cost more than that. Also, the stock cog is 16T, which is going to be very high gearing for city riding, stop and go. Anyway, gotta go to bed now.

True, have a good night Tejano.

Thanks for the insight,

-djsfix

From the background work I've done your saying that the Declaration is just the "Feather" with a different name, correct?

The Feather and Declaration frames are similar in construction but have slightly different geometry. The Declaration can barspin and is set up more for "urban" riding, while the Feather can not bar spin and looks more like a track bike.

@djsfix...i sincerely hope you enjoy whichever bike you end up buying. but before you decide against that fuji, which apparently you could assure your correct size on & pickup at a local shop & be riding today along with creating a relationship with a place in your town to help you when you need it, you should know that TejanoTrackie was absolutely incorrect in telling you it is hi-ten.

according to fuji's website, the declaration (& the feather as well) is built with:
MAIN FRAME - Elios 2 custom-butted CrMo w/ outer butted seat tube, single water bottle mount
REAR TRIANGLE - Elios 2 custom-tapered CrMo w/ track dropout, bridge drilled for rear brake
FORK- Fuji 1 1/8" custom triple-butted CrMo, crown drilled for front brake

i am not commenting whether the declaration is a better or worse buy than the bikes TT recommended to you but you should at least have accurate information to help you make your decision.

but sometimes i do wonder at the overwhelming zeal around here to sell for bikedirect. i sure hope bfssfg gets some commision on all the bikes they move for bd ;)

have fun & good luck...

The high claimed weight from the Declaration is probably from the wheelset. It's a solid frame with mediocre components pretty much just like the bikes from BD. IMO if you are that new to bikes I would consider just going with your LBS. You'll have the bike fully assembled & ready to ride, know you get a bike that fits you, and have someone to service/maintain it for you. Some shops will also offer discounts on gear with a bike purchase. One LBS here throws in a tool kit, spare tubes, lever, and a pair of water bottles. Don't hesitate to ask if you choose a bike there as they are things you will probably need in the near future and are part of the overall cost.

BD bikes come mostly assembled and require some setup/tuning out of the box. For FG it isn't too much mostly just install seat, handlebars, wheels & brakes. The biggest problem I had from the BD bike I bought was the wheel set. Both were horribly out of true and quite a few spokes were only hand tight o_O. Granted easy fixes for somebody knowledgeable but I did have to pay an lbs ~40 to get both wheels trued. My first bike I bought from the LBS and sure I paid a little more but I wouldn't have changed a thing.

Possibly-unhelpful advice: if you aren't biking already, and you are commuting 30 miles a day, a fixie is NOT the right bike. They are great for errand-running, but they require more strength and skill and attention than a freewheel bike, and on a 15-mile run you will be glad of gears unless you are in incredible shape.

There's a lot of hate here for Fuji entry level frames for some reason, but I love love love my Classic Track. I think if you're brand new to bikes, it may be worth the markup to buy from an LBS where you can 1.) try the bike before you buy; 2.) get the year's worth of free tuneups or whatever typically comes with buying a complete bike from a shop; and 3.) establish a relationship with your LBS for future needs/questions/repairs. I don't for a minute regret getting my Fuji over whatever BFSSFG says is the BikesDirect "equivalent."

30 miles a day is on the high side for any kind of commuting, let alone fixed. I say that as someone that commutes 20 miles a day. I agree with SamChevre that 30 miles may be a bit much, at least to start, although the need for gears depends on the terrain. Here in Chicago for example, gears are essentially unnecessary. You might consider starting with a freewheel so you can coast until you get in shape. Also consider multi-modal for a while to build up your miles (take the bus/train halfway or whatever) if that's a possibility.

The Feather and Declaration frames are similar in construction but have slightly different geometry. The Declaration can barspin and is set up more for "urban" riding, while the Feather can not bar spin and looks more like a track bike.
Okay cool, would so would you recommend the Declaration for the 30 mile round trip I'd be riding almost daily? From what you're saying the Feather sounds like a better option, but I could just take the brakes off the feather and it would spin right? Oh never mind, the feather would have the drop style handle bars, right?

@djsfix...i sincerely hope you enjoy whichever bike you end up buying. but before you decide against that fuji, which apparently you could assure your correct size on & pickup at a local shop & be riding today along with creating a relationship with a place in your town to help you when you need it, you should know that TejanoTrackie was absolutely incorrect in telling you it is hi-ten.

according to fuji's website, the declaration (& the feather as well) is built with:
MAIN FRAME - Elios 2 custom-butted CrMo w/ outer butted seat tube, single water bottle mount
REAR TRIANGLE - Elios 2 custom-tapered CrMo w/ track dropout, bridge drilled for rear brake
FORK- Fuji 1 1/8" custom triple-butted CrMo, crown drilled for front brake

i am not commenting whether the declaration is a better or worse buy than the bikes TT recommended to you but you should at least have accurate information to help you make your decision.

but sometimes i do wonder at the overwhelming zeal around here to sell for bikedirect. i sure hope bfssfg gets some commision on all the bikes they move for bd ;)

have fun & good luck...
Thanks for correcting him Mark, can you tell me the difference between "hi-ten" and "CrMo"? I noticed that as well, but have no idea what it means. Also, yes it would be nice to pick up that Fuji today, but in your opinion, what would be a better choice for my first FG? I already know I like the Fuji, but if I can get the same exact thing for $200 less I'd be willing to wait, but only if the quality is exactly the same or better then the fuji. The bikes I was looking at are the Kilo TT and WT as well as the Windsor Clockwork and The Hour.

Thanks amigos,

-djsfix

The high claimed weight from the Declaration is probably from the wheelset. It's a solid frame with mediocre components pretty much just like the bikes from BD. IMO if you are that new to bikes I would consider just going with your LBS. You'll have the bike fully assembled & ready to ride, know you get a bike that fits you, and have someone to service/maintain it for you. Some shops will also offer discounts on gear with a bike purchase. One LBS here throws in a tool kit, spare tubes, lever, and a pair of water bottles. Don't hesitate to ask if you choose a bike there as they are things you will probably need in the near future and are part of the overall cost.

BD bikes come mostly assembled and require some setup/tuning out of the box. For FG it isn't too much mostly just install seat, handlebars, wheels & brakes. The biggest problem I had from the BD bike I bought was the wheel set. Both were horribly out of true and quite a few spokes were only hand tight o_O. Granted easy fixes for somebody knowledgeable but I did have to pay an lbs ~40 to get both wheels trued. My first bike I bought from the LBS and sure I paid a little more but I wouldn't have changed a thing.
Thanks Jason, yea I like the idea of having a bike ready to ride right off the bat and learn to work on it as I go. I'm the kind of person that will want to maintain it myself though.

Possibly-unhelpful advice: if you aren't biking already, and you are commuting 30 miles a day, a fixie is NOT the right bike. They are great for errand-running, but they require more strength and skill and attention than a freewheel bike, and on a 15-mile run you will be glad of gears unless you are in incredible shape.
Unless you're being a dick, I value your input Sam. Yea 30 miles total for the day, so 15 miles in and 15 miles back. For the most part it's all flat except for a little bit of a climb halfway in. I figure with the gear I should be okay? What do you think?

There's a lot of hate here for Fuji entry level frames for some reason, but I love love love my Classic Track. I think if you're brand new to bikes, it may be worth the markup to buy from an LBS where you can 1.) try the bike before you buy; 2.) get the year's worth of free tuneups or whatever typically comes with buying a complete bike from a shop; and 3.) establish a relationship with your LBS for future needs/questions/repairs. I don't for a minute regret getting my Fuji over whatever BFSSFG says is the BikesDirect "equivalent."

30 miles a day is on the high side for any kind of commuting, let alone fixed. I say that as someone that commutes 20 miles a day. I agree with SamChevre that 30 miles may be a bit much, at least to start, although the need for gears depends on the terrain. Here in Chicago for example, gears are essentially unnecessary. You might consider starting with a freewheel so you can coast until you get in shape. Also consider multi-modal for a while to build up your miles (take the bus/train halfway or whatever) if that's a possibility.
Now I'm really stuck cause the 2012 Classic Track on CG.com looks super clean! Yea 30 miles sounds like a lot to me, but I have a few friends that ride it regularly and they seem to be able to handle it no problem. I'll definitely have to work up to the whole ride, probably like what you said already (bike, lightrail, bike the rest).

Thanks again everyone,

-djsfix

Thanks for correcting him Mark, can you tell me the difference between "hi-ten" and "CrMo"? I noticed that as well, but have no idea what it means.

I jumped the gun on the hiten thing, because the weight seemed too high for a fully butted cromo frame. Once jt posted the specs, I realized my mistake, and should have posted this to avoid confusion. I still have to wonder if the frame on the Fuji is fully butted, due to its weight being significantly higher than the Messenger or Clockwork, despite the wheels and other components being similar. The thing about hiten is that it is lower strength steel that is typically straight gage, making it heavier, and it is usually only seen on cheap bikes. A hiten frame will have a dead feeling compared to a fully butted cromo frame. Still, even with the Fuji being cromo and even assuming it is fully butted, its not worth $145 more than the bd bikes, and even if you have to pay your lbs to assemble and adjust it you will be ahead. You can take everything else markaitch says with a grain of salt. He's got a hard one for overpriced Surly bikes and gets a fat commission for shilling them. ;)

I jumped the gun on the hiten thing, because the weight seemed too high for a fully butted cromo frame. Once jt posted the specs, I realized my mistake, and should have posted this to avoid confusion. I still have to wonder if the frame on the Fuji is fully butted, due to its weight being significantly higher than the Messenger or Clockwork, despite the wheels and other components being similar. The thing about hiten is that it is lower strength steel that is typically straight gage, making it heavier, and it is usually only seen on cheap bikes. A hiten frame will have a dead feeling compared to a fully butted cromo frame. Still, even with the Fuji being cromo and even assuming it is fully butted, its not worth $145 more than the bd bikes, and even if you have to pay your lbs to assemble and adjust it you will be ahead. You can take everything else markaitch says with a grain of salt. He's got a hard one for overpriced Surly bikes and gets a fat commission for shilling them. ;)
This blows, now I'm completely torn, I've never had this big of a problem getting straight answers on a forum. Having to deal with people pushing certain brands is somethin I'm used to, but in this instance I don't know as much as I wish I did to see through the bull****.

Thanks Tejano,

-djsfix

Hey guys what's everyone's thoughts on the Kilo stripper. Also is it measured c-c or c-t?

-djsfix

This blows, now I'm completely torn, I've never had this big of a problem getting straight answers on a forum. Having to deal with people pushing certain brands is somethin I'm used to, but in this instance I don't know as much as I wish I did to see through the bull****.

Thanks Tejano,

-djsfix

The thing is, there is no objectively correct answer as to whether you should buy from BD or similar or your local shop. Really. It's subjective. I'll say it again, for me it was worth the LBS/"name brand" markup. I'm not on a tight budget, it was important for me to be able to test ride the bike (I'm super short and bikes that fit me are few and far between) and I didn't want to deal with assembly and truing wheels and whatnot right away. Even though I now am pretty comfortable doing basic work on my bikes.

You won't get a "straight answer" because there isn't one. Some people here are really principled about not spending a dime more than they have to... others (like me) see money as something that exists to be spent, and if a few extra bucks makes you happier or makes your life easier or whatever and you can afford it, why not? Just the other day I got a flat and didn't have a tube with me. Luckily I was near an LBS and was able to limp over there to get one. When they asked if I wanted them to put it on, it was a pretty easy decision to pay a few extra bucks to have it done more quickly and not have to get all dirty. Even though I've changed dozens of tubes in my day and can do it myself no problem. Same reason I pay to get my car's oil changed - sure I could do it myself in my cramped garage (city living = no driveway) and get all dirty and have to deal with taking the oil somewhere to be disposed of properly. Or I can spend $30 and not have to deal with any of that.

For a while this forum made me feel really stupid and embarrassed to have purchased my Classic Track instead of a BikesDirect bike. But then I fell in love with my bike and got over it.

I will emphatically state that I am not a shill, I have no vested interest in whether you order a bike online or get one through your LBS. I'm just a chick who rides bikes.

It's measured c-c as well

EDIT

Just saw misskaz's post and I agree pretty much 100% with she said. I joined the forum and lurked a long time before finally buying my first bike. I ended up going to the local LBS and buying a SE Lager brand new from them. I spent probably $100 more than a "BD equivalent" but to me it was worth it. The shop was extremely helpful and talked me out of a few more expensive bikes to find one that fit what I needed. I got sized and test rode a few while they answered any questions I had. When I left my bike fit, it was adjusted properly and my wheels were true. To me that was worth the $100 I spent. Not having much knowledge at the time this $100 possibly saved me $300 or more from inadvertently purchasing a bike that did not fit or I was not comfortable with.

Couple years later I was more comfortable in knowing what I liked/wanted so I bought a road bike off BD and was happy with that transaction as well. I talked with a lady over the phone there and she was helpful in answering questions and my bike arrived very quickly and was packed well. It did however require setting up and several adjustments but they explain that during the purchase process.

the fuji isn't a bad idea. a butted CrMo frame is worth keeping for the rest of your life and upgrading components as they wear out, you are new to riding so the relationship with a local shop will be extremely helpful. since you're getting a bike for primary transportation you're right to get fixed gear, it will be much less expensive and less complicated to maintain. sure riding fixed is hard physically and theres a slightly different skillset involved, but that doesn't mean you can't start out on fixed. fixed gear is the original bike and people have done just fine riding them for the last hundred years.

Hey guys what's everyone's thoughts on the Kilo stripper. Also is it measured c-c or c-t?

All the Kilo TT models are c-c. All the rest, including Kilo WT are c-t. IMO if you are going to get a Kilo TT model, pay a few bucks more for the Pro models, which have much better wheels with sealed cartridge bearing hubs. The caged bearing hubs on the cheaper models require adjustment and are not as smooth. The Kilo WT also has the better cartridge bearing wheels.

Go to your local shop. While I was researching my purchase, I stopped in about once a week and just hung out, chatting with the people there about the different bikes. When it came time to buy, I did end up spending about $200 at the shop than I would have online. However, for the $200, I got:

1) They threw in a free kryptonite lock
2) Free pair of knog blinky lights
3) 10% my next purchase in the shop
4) One free flat fix
5) Free 3 month tune-up

Additionally, they remembered me afterward, and on all my subsequent visits to the shop I got great and friendly service.

Disclaimer: not all bike shops are this cool; while all are overpriced, some are close to downright robbery, and many are--to put it mildly--lacking in customer service.

P.S. If you do end up buying online, then don't come whining when your local shop charges you $20 in labor to change a flat. As more and more customers do their shopping online, I'd imagine that maintenance revenue becomes a larger percentage of the shop's total income.

If it's a first bike, I'd definitely buy something you can test ride. Sizing and fit varies between brands, even with comparable measurements.

And I'd test ride several bikes, and over a decent distance--a lot of things are great for the first 5 miles and then not so great.

Also, come over to the commuter forum--there's a lot of us who commute there and lots of tips/suggestions/etc.

The thing is, there is no objectively correct answer as to whether you should buy from BD or similar or your local shop. Really. It's subjective. I'll say it again, for me it was worth the LBS/"name brand" markup. I'm not on a tight budget, it was important for me to be able to test ride the bike (I'm super short and bikes that fit me are few and far between) and I didn't want to deal with assembly and truing wheels and whatnot right away. Even though I now am pretty comfortable doing basic work on my bikes.

You won't get a "straight answer" because there isn't one. Some people here are really principled about not spending a dime more than they have to... others (like me) see money as something that exists to be spent, and if a few extra bucks makes you happier or makes your life easier or whatever and you can afford it, why not? Just the other day I got a flat and didn't have a tube with me. Luckily I was near an LBS and was able to limp over there to get one. When they asked if I wanted them to put it on, it was a pretty easy decision to pay a few extra bucks to have it done more quickly and not have to get all dirty. Even though I've changed dozens of tubes in my day and can do it myself no problem. Same reason I pay to get my car's oil changed - sure I could do it myself in my cramped garage (city living = no driveway) and get all dirty and have to deal with taking the oil somewhere to be disposed of properly. Or I can spend $30 and not have to deal with any of that.

For a while this forum made me feel really stupid and embarrassed to have purchased my Classic Track instead of a BikesDirect bike. But then I fell in love with my bike and got over it.

I will emphatically state that I am not a shill, I have no vested interest in whether you order a bike online or get one through your LBS. I'm just a chick who rides bikes.
Yeah, definitely a good point, everyone has their own perspective and standards.

It's measured c-c as well

EDIT

Just saw misskaz's post and I agree pretty much 100% with she said. I joined the forum and lurked a long time before finally buying my first bike. I ended up going to the local LBS and buying a SE Lager brand new from them. I spent probably $100 more than a "BD equivalent" but to me it was worth it. The shop was extremely helpful and talked me out of a few more expensive bikes to find one that fit what I needed. I got sized and test rode a few while they answered any questions I had. When I left my bike fit, it was adjusted properly and my wheels were true. To me that was worth the $100 I spent. Not having much knowledge at the time this $100 possibly saved me $300 or more from inadvertently purchasing a bike that did not fit or I was not comfortable with.

Couple years later I was more comfortable in knowing what I liked/wanted so I bought a road bike off BD and was happy with that transaction as well. I talked with a lady over the phone there and she was helpful in answering questions and my bike arrived very quickly and was packed well. It did however require setting up and several adjustments but they explain that during the purchase process.
Yea I like the idea of my own shop, I wish there was one closer to my house, but I'm going to keep stopping through the one I went into yesterday. Everyone seemed pretty cool, tried to start bull**** me and then I asked him to be real and he did. Problem solved, honest answers.

the fuji isn't a bad idea. a butted CrMo frame is worth keeping for the rest of your life and upgrading components as they wear out, you are new to riding so the relationship with a local shop will be extremely helpful. since you're getting a bike for primary transportation you're right to get fixed gear, it will be much less expensive and less complicated to maintain. sure riding fixed is hard physically and theres a slightly different skillset involved, but that doesn't mean you can't start out on fixed. fixed gear is the original bike and people have done just fine riding them for the last hundred years.
Agreed, I'm not too worried about the ride, more just going to have to get into the pattern of the FG since I grew up on bmx and mountain bikes.

All the Kilo TT models are c-c. All the rest, including Kilo WT are c-t. IMO if you are going to get a Kilo TT model, pay a few bucks more for the Pro models, which have much better wheels with sealed cartridge bearing hubs. The caged bearing hubs on the cheaper models require adjustment and are not as smooth. The Kilo WT also has the better cartridge bearing wheels.
I was looking more into the pro models, just was wondering what everyone thought about the stripper. The Kilo TT Pro is still high up on my list of possibilities.

Go to your local shop. While I was researching my purchase, I stopped in about once a week and just hung out, chatting with the people there about the different bikes. When it came time to buy, I did end up spending about $200 at the shop than I would have online. However, for the $200, I got:

1) They threw in a free kryptonite lock
2) Free pair of knog blinky lights
3) 10% my next purchase in the shop
4) One free flat fix
5) Free 3 month tune-up

Additionally, they remembered me afterward, and on all my subsequent visits to the shop I got great and friendly service.

Disclaimer: not all bike shops are this cool; while all are overpriced, some are close to downright robbery, and many are--to put it mildly--lacking in customer service.

P.S. If you do end up buying online, then don't come whining when your local shop charges you $20 in labor to change a flat. As more and more customers do their shopping online, I'd imagine that maintenance revenue becomes a larger percentage of the shop's total income.

Thanks for the input, no whining necessary. That's why I'm doing my background work before dropping cash, my friend.


Really digging the amount and quickness of responses on BF.net, good community so far :)

-djsfix

If it's a first bike, I'd definitely buy something you can test ride. Sizing and fit varies between brands, even with comparable measurements.

And I'd test ride several bikes, and over a decent distance--a lot of things are great for the first 5 miles and then not so great.

Also, come over to the commuter forum--there's a lot of us who commute there and lots of tips/suggestions/etc.

Thanks Sam, I'm gonna go check out the commuter section now.

-djsfix