Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Change gearing.. Need advice

Hey Guys,

So I have been searching through old threads about some good gear ratios but I can't understand some of things the posters were saying!

My current gearing is 47/16. It is great when I am home from college because there are zero hills where I live. That makes it very easy for me to really spin. However, I have a hard time slowing down mainly because I am a girl and my legs are not as strong. I also have a problem at school. When I am biking on flat land we are good but there is also a lot of hills by me. I don't have a problem going up, it becomes a problem going down the hills. I just am not strong enough to slow down without standing up or using my front brake!

Do you guys have any suggestions on what I should do? Can I fix my problem with stopping by changing my cog?

Thanks!

It's fine to backpedal while standing.

My suggestion is just to ride more. Eventually it wil get easier.
You can try and gear down by getting a larger cog, but sometimes this can make it tricky to backpedal when spinning very fast.

Since cogs are inexpensive, it doesn't hurt to try and gear down.

Also, having good, solid foot retention helps slowing down quite a bit. What are you using right now?

It sounds as though your gearing fits your needs in every respect except during decelleration. If everything else is working well for you, why not just use your front brake? I can understand no brakes on the track, but on the road where traffic and terrain can introduce unpredictable conditions, a front brake is invaluable, and changing your present gearing from what works to something less than optimal just for braking purposes seem counter-productive to me.

leg strength is pretty comparable between ordinary men and women, actually.

you can always work on your backpedaling technique or you can install a rear brake and use that.
there's no shame in using brakes when going down hill. That's what they are there for.

In fact, one can argue that back pedaling actually does more harm than good in your leg muscles and joints.

use your brake?

What are you using right now?

I use those steel clips with leather straps..maybe I should look into getting those like larger fabric straps? Any recommendations?

Since cogs are inexpensive, it doesn't hurt to try and gear down.


Also if I was to do how many teeth would you recommend?

That is a pretty high gearing, so the difficulty is understandable. Try an 18t cog.

Also if I was to do how many teeth would you recommend?

I have 47 x 17 or equivalent on my bikes, and it's plenty of gear to average 20 mph and spin over 30 mph down hills. If I'm going down a long or steep hill and find myself spinning too fast, I just ride my front brake to keep the speed steady. If I need to slow down, I'll use the brake to assist my legs backpedalling as necessary. As to foot retention, if you're serious about it then go clipless with SPD style walkable shoes. Otherwise clips and straps are the next best option.

47x16 is pretty high, 77 gear inches. 70 gear inches is a good all around gear, you could go down to 66 gi if you like to spin. Check our all city's gear gear calculator: http://allcitycycles.com/

Try an 18t cog.

The more teeth on the cog the easier it is? so a 47/18 would be easier than a 47/16? Oh the joys of trying to understand gears!

http://rideyourbike.com/images/skidspots.jpg

The more teeth on the cog the easier it is? so a 47/18 would be easier than a 47/16? Oh the joys of trying to understand gears!

Yes, and the opposite is true in the front. Less chainring teeth is easier. Personally, I'd try 17T first. Going from 16T to 18T is a very big jump.

Can anyone recommend a good brand for a cog? I have a Velocity rear hub... are the cogs pretty standard?

P.s. Thank for the help so far everyone :)

Cogs are pretty standard. Soma is a good value. I use one. EAI and DA are better, but more expensive.

Anyone recommend a Surly cog? And what is the difference between 3/32" and 1/8" tooth thickness?

I've heard that Surly cogs are noisy, but I've never had one.

3/32" is the thinner road standard, 1/8" is the beefier track/single speed standard. The important thing when choosing a cog is to match whichever your chain and chainring is.

Anyone recommend a Surly cog? And what is the difference between 3/32" and 1/8" tooth thickness?

No I don't recommend a Surly cog. Expensive and noisy. Soma is just as good quality, cheaper and quieter. 3/32" will work with any chain, but 1/8" is thicker and will only work with a 1/8" chain.

My chainring is a 3/32" is ill be going with a 3/32" tooth thickness?

Cogs are pretty standard. Soma is a good value. I use one. EAI and DA are better, but more expensive.

Largest size for DA is 16T.

If your chainring is 3/32" your chain is probably 3/32", so your cog should be 3/32"

Views on a EAI Deluxe cog?

Also very good. Better, but more expensive. If you can find one for a good price or it doesn't bother you to spend an extra few bucks I'd shell it out. Otherwise, a Soma cog is just fine.

if you buy several cheaper...errr...less expensive cogs you can experiment with different ratios for a smaller investment

redline, gusset & avenir make machined steel cogs in 3/32" that you can easily find online for less than $10

i have ridden a gusset 332 cog for thousands of trouble free miles...but once you find the size you like best you can switch to something like a soma or eai that will get you more cred here, if that is what you crave...

Get a formula cog. fer serious. don't spend a butt load of cash on a cog when you are still figuring out what gearing is. also formula cogs will do just fine. no probs. done. /thread

Yeah man you just need a bigger cog more teeth equals easier to pedal/slow down. Usually anywhere from 64-71 is comfortable for commuting.

How big of a difference is it between a 17t and 18t? or even 19t

if you buy several cheaper...errr...less expensive cogs you can experiment with different ratios for a smaller investment

redline, gusset & avenir make machined steel cogs in 3/32" that you can easily find online for less than $10

i have ridden a gusset 332 cog for thousands of trouble free miles...but once you find the size you like best you can switch to something like a soma or eai that will get you more cred here, if that is what you crave...

I rode a seven dollar avenir for about a hundred miles. Without I doubt I could have ridden it for hundreds more. But to me, it was worth putting in 15 dollars for a quieter drivetrain. You certainly aren't paying just for 'cred.'

having lots of cheap cogs around so I can test what I look on each bike I have to say I'm very impressed with the quality in these soma cogs. I've used several all-city cogs without any issues, but the craftsmanship on this soma cog is quite nice

Check out Ben's Cycle Cogs....

How big of a difference is it between a 17t and 18t? or even 19t
For every three chainring teeth, substitute one cog tooth. Basically, the less drastic your ratio, the easier it will be to slow down with leg power. For instance, a 3:1 ratio (i.e. 48-16, etc.) will be harder to resist with your legs than a 48-18 (~2.7). I think if you just make sure your foot retention is adequate (make sure your straps and snug and not just there), ride more, and then ride even more, you should be good. Doesn't hurt to experiment with other gearings though!

No "htfu" to the original question? Just cause it's a SQRL?

Get a 18t and call it a day. You'll notice the difference going from 16 to 18.

Can anyone recommend a good brand for a cog? I have a Velocity rear hub... are the cogs pretty standard?

These days all standard threaded track type hubs and cogs use ISO threading. Shimano makes very good and relatively inexpensive track cogs.

My chainring is a 3/32" is ill be going with a 3/32" tooth thickness?

What width is your chain? 3/32" (road) chain will only work on cogs and chainrings designed for 3/32" chain. 1/8" chain can work with either 3/32" or 1/8" cogs and rings in any permutation.

if you buy several cheaper...errr...less expensive cogs you can experiment with different ratios for a smaller investment

Don't go too cheap, though. Some cheap stamped cogs have poor threads and can permanently damage your hub.

http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/stamped.jpg

Would you guys recommend a Milwaukee Bicycle Co cog or a EAI Deluxe cog? Both are around the same price. Would either fit a formula hub?

seriously? didn't you have that questioned answered already?
Weren't you getting the EAI deluxe?

Great cog by the way, can't go wrong.

seriously? didn't you have that questioned answered already?


Yes, the EAI question was answered. I just stumbled upon the Milwaukee brand and wanted opinions.:thumb:

Don't go too cheap, though. Some cheap stamped cogs have poor threads and can permanently damage your hub.


@JohnDThompson i agree with you wholeheartedly but if you are going to quote me to prove your point, please do not leave out pertinent parts of my post


if you buy several cheaper...errr...less expensive cogs you can experiment with different ratios for a smaller investment

redline, gusset & avenir make machined steel cogs in 3/32" that you can easily find online for less than $10...


@kate2...EAI & Milwaukee are both nice cogs & either can serve you well

at some point if you decided on the size, you have to go ahead & pull the trigger. cogs are not a such huge investment that you need to research unendingly before buying one. don't you want to get riding?

good luck & have fun...

"I just am not strong enough to slow down without standing up or using my front brake!"

Is this not the crux of Kate2's original post? Then the best replay was to just use her brake.

For me, one advantage of a taller gear is the ability to pedal longer without spinning out on a downhill. She's not having problems getting up the hill, the problem is stopping on the downhill side. Is using easier gearing going to help her with that?

Yes.