Mountain Biking - going to a 1x9 setup...I think.

I think I may be converting to a 1x9 setup in the near future, but I am going to wait until I get new grips so I can order grips and a bashguard at the same time. Then, when my new grips come in, I can get rid of those decidedly worthless paperweights called bar ends. I think I am starting to spec my bike away from XC racing, but screw it, it'll make me happier.

it'll make me happier.Isn't that the point?

I want a 1x8 setup. I hate FRONT deraillers, since I had a zellers bike (front shifter was the most problematic) until now, my front derailler always acts up and every 5 pedal strokes or so, I would hear a click which would be the derailler ALMOST pushing one of the chain links off. The adjustments never work out.



So...to the point...how do you make a 1x8 setup and how do I find a second interior bashguard?

Isn't that the point?

Thats why I'm dong it.

Second interior bashguard.. what are you on?
It's not a bash guard if it's on the inside chainring, is it?

You can probably take off the outer 2 chainrings, and put a bashguard on the outside, and just leave the derraileur on.. but that's not the point, so probably take it off. There's most likely more to it than this..

You only need one bashguard. What would the interior one be for? If you are worried about dropping your chain, ask yourself, can you run in the biggest in the back and the middle in the front without dropping a chain?
Yes=don't worry
No=lying

how about maybe?

I think that in the scenario of your chain either A) falling off or B) not falling off (aka, staying on) leaves little room for a grey area, such as maybe.

Second interior bashguard.. what are you on?
It's not a bash guard if it's on the inside chainring, is it?

You can probably take off the outer 2 chainrings, and put a bashguard on the outside, and just leave the derraileur on.. but that's not the point, so probably take it off. There's most likely more to it than this..

Inner bashring is doable. Not the best option, but is definately doable.

I always thought a chain guide would be better for something than an actual inner bash guard so to speak.

I've got a buddy that runs a double bash guard. However, he actually chamfered the inside edges so the chain would drop easier between the two guards. About 15 mins on the grider and he was good.

I'd still prefer to run a chain guide. He occasionally will get the chain hung up on the guard, but it ends up dropping between after a half pedal stroke.

You need tensioners\ guides for these setups if doing anything other than flatland.

I run a 7 or 8 rear. The ring is a bit thicker and non ramped front.
This is an old pic >the tensioner was re-designed featuring a walled toothed sprocket and a heavier mounting. -Still on the chainstay -nice spot as you miss it when rocks jam 'tween the tire and bashring.

A tensioner run with a bashring will keep the chain on in most gears. Running your smaller cogs increases the chance of jump ( the chain may need to be shortened).
A box guide might rub on the 2 extreme outer cogs. I've not tried higher than 8.

If you are increasing the mid ring size you will not have space to mount the inner plate guard.
Also this may apply to 9 clusters as you wont be able to use a wider axle to space for inner plate (chainline issues as the 9 cogset is wider).

Depending on your cogset - increasing \decreasing the chainring teeth is a way of ballancing the drive - I wanted a speed bike and was running out of gears -so I added teeth. (12 to 28 and 38 front, 22 lb bike)
It still climbs great, 'bout 25 mph flat @ 100 rpm.

It be hard to get above 39T on a mtb mid mounted triple spyder because of the chainstay.

The packaged goods are great >$$$< - improv works too. I have not jumped the chain since going to a toothed sprocket from a roller design...I also only jump while on the large side of the cogset. I need to test and try it out a bit more.

-Dual plates work -you may want a 2'nd der tensioner to stop slap \wrap the ring for torque.

-combo systems work better.