Bicycle Mechanics - what tool ??

what tool do i need to get this BB adjusted

its on a mid 90's Hardrock

A pin spanner is the correct tool: http://www.parktool.com/product/pin-spanner-green-spa-1 but many times the adjusting cup can be turned with carefully-placed taps of a hammer on a screwdriver.

This should also help: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/adjustable-type-bottom-bracket-service

A pin spanner is the correct tool but many times the adjusting cup can be turned with carefully-placed taps of a hammer on a screwdriver.


I've used a hammer and screwdriver on lockrings before (now I have the correct lockring tool) but I've never needed a tool for the adjustable cup. Often I can move it with my hand or use a needlenose pliers as a "pin spanner."

A pin spanner would be the correct tool unless the threads are siezed on that part which they may well be due to the age of the bike. A screwdriver and hammer will work, so will a hammer and center punch. Looks like you already have the lockring off and if you plan on replacing the BB I wouldn't worry about using the 'correct' tool. If the threads are siezed you'd just break the pins off the pin spanner anyway.

Yes a pin spanner, but it won't do you any good without the locknut and a hook spanner..

Looking at the pic, it appears the movable cup is screwed in more than it should go.
Are things "garbaged" inside?

i tore into because i noticed some up and down play in the bb .... thought i might to able to adjust it but i should probaly just put in a new BB .... i have some small punches ... i'll gingerly try that 1st .... is it reverse thread ?

the crank has a touch of up and down play ... needs a new BB ... but was hoping i could try adjusting 1st

Where is the Lockring?

.. i should probaly just put in a new BB..
yes , remove both sides [or bring it into the shop,
as there are more tools to buy, just to take it apart ]
and get a new Shimano UN xx BB,of the right spindle length.

The LBS will get you the matching one for what you need.

is there any reference material on the internet to look up what BB i need .... i'd rather keep this out the LBS ... im stubborn :)

i might be wrong but the only tool i still need is the park HCW-4 .. anyone disagree?

Without seeing the other side, who knows if the HCW-4 will work?

I have one and it doesn't work as a pin spanner for everything and I know the open end doesn't work for everything.
Else I wouldn't have My HCW-5 & 11 and 12" Crescent wrench.

Edit-
Pay attention to the orientation of the spindle-
It likely has a "long" side and a "short" side.
That WILL matter when trying to determine the proper size of a BB if you need a new one.
It'll like be marked in the style of.... 3-P, 3-S, 5-T or similar.

PS- What part of Oregon are you in?

salem

salem

I'm in Albany if you get hard up and need a hand-

That HCW 4 should work however.... The "Fixed" cup is normally secured pretty tightly. since you intend to simply remove and replace this BB I recomend taking it to a shop

1 Removing a fixed cup is tough, they are called fixed for a reason. having the hcw4 is only the first part. most of us more experienced mechanincs have some tool (purchased or homemade) to assist in holding the tool in place while loosening the cup. my HCW4, well one of them, has quite a large cheater attached to it. I seldom have issue with stuck ones or ones coming loose. OH leave the BB spindle and adj cup in. the shop should have no problem just loosening the fixed cup for you

2 while at the shop they can take the measurements I bet you have a 73mm shell and 122mm spindle and be able to sell you what you need or order it for you.

3 when buyng/ordering the BB also buy the correct installation tool.

Wait! Hold on!

Why are you replacing the BB? If you want a zero maintenance system then by all means get a cartridge unit. But for a buck or two for ball bearings you can rebuild the BB you have with fresh grease, and you don't have to remove the fixed cup. The internals are most likely fine, the adjustment was probably loose. I've rebuilt some really bad cup-and-cone bottom brackets and gotten them to spin smoothly once again with no play.

Plain bearing solid slug axle BB is nothing to be attached to, over haul clean and inspect ,
If the races are not smooth , which I doubt they are, its a MTB after all, replace.
UN types are $20..

Bianchigirll

You might be having visions of removing Italian fixed cups on your Bianchis :eek:. Generally on old mountain bikes and most English BB for that matter I've never found it not to be as big of a deal as long as you have the right tools.

Bianchigirll

You might be having visions of removing Italian fixed cups on your Bianchis :eek:. Generally on old mountain bikes and most English BB for that matter I've never found it not to be as big of a deal as long as you have the right tools.

Since you only have about 3MM of purchase, the wrench can slip quite easily on stubborn cups.
I use the HCW-4 and the first time I used it, I had problems slipping on a tight cup. That rounds off the flats on the cup AND the tool.
I immediately picked up a couple different lengths of 8MM bolts, and a stack of washers.
I use one of my cartridge BB tools,a few washers and 1 of the bolts to hold the wrench snug against the cup. THEN I can give it a good rap with the 4 pound hammer if necessary.

couldn't get it to budge with the needle nose pliers .... sprayed some pb buster on the thread .. might try it late tonight after the game

my goal is to get the adjustable side off ... take out the splindle and check everything 1st .....

Wait! Hold on!

Why are you replacing the BB? If you want a zero maintenance system then by all means get a cartridge unit. But for a buck or two for ball bearings you can rebuild the BB you have with fresh grease, and you don't have to remove the fixed cup. The internals are most likely fine, the adjustment was probably loose. I've rebuilt some really bad cup-and-cone bottom brackets and gotten them to spin smoothly once again with no play.

You beat me to it.

got the adjustable cup off ... it looks good .. i'll make sure not to flip the splindle around the wrong way

What's the size code on the spindle?
It'll probably be 3-?, with the ? representing a letter. (3-P, 3-S etc.)

Try to wipe down the fixed cup, and using a light, inspect it well. IME that's the side that usually goes bad first.

You are aware the fixed cup is left hand threaded?

i haven't inspected the drive side race but if all looks good i'll probaly just repack .... i picked up this bike for 7 bucks .... kinda wanna keep it on the ultra cheap side

i haven't inspected the drive side race but if all looks good i'll probaly just repack .... i picked up this bike for 7 bucks .... kinda wanna keep it on the ultra cheap side

Repack is the best way to go if you want to be on the cheap side. One of three things will happen:

1. The bearing will work perfectly
2. The bearing will be less smooth than if it were brand new.
3. The rough surfaces will make everything self destruct.

#3 is the only bad one, and it's quite rare unless the surfaces are very pitted. I've only had it happen to me once on a pedal. IMHO, people often make too big a deal about replacing balls/cups/cones when fresh grease and proper adjustment will almost always make the bearing 100 times better than it was before. If it does go bad, all you're out is some grease and time.

what's the size code on the spindle?
It'll probably be 3-?, with the ? Representing a letter. (3-p, 3-s etc.)

try to wipe down the fixed cup, and using a light, inspect it well. Ime that's the side that usually goes bad first.

You are aware the fixed cup is left hand threaded?


3n

yea i discovered some pitting on the drive side bearing .... any BB suggestions ??... if i decide to go ahead with it

IF the short side of the spindle was toward the crank, you'll need a 116MM cartridge equivalent.
117MM is a standard size, so that should be a good fit.

IF the long side was toward the crank, you'll need a 124MM cartridge equivalent.
This is the cartridge you likely need.
They make a 122.5 & 127.5.
I'd go for the 122.5.

IF you want to go cheap, use a Shimano UN-26. (68MM shell width)
You can probably get one online for $15-17 delivered.
The UN-54 is a better quality, but costs a few bucks more.
You'll also need the proper tool.