Classic & Vintage - Raleigh Sport upgrade suggestions, ideas HELP!

Hi, I was given a raleigh sports-late 60's or early 70's bronze green. I thought I was the luckiest girl in the world as I have wanted one for most of my life! The brakes are toast so it does not stop and have only gone on cautious rides. It's in pretty good shape, but not a museum collectors item. I would like to make it a rider as I already have a shiny vintage raleigh in mostly original condition that only comes out on nice days. I commute rather long distances and have hills to deal with.
The wheels are in poor shape with rust, broken spokes and a damaged front hub. I would like to build new alloy wheels with drum brakes and an internal hub with drum brake like the sturmey archer 5 or 8 speed hubs. As much as I'd like to keep the 3 speed which works well, I have tested it on roads I ride daily and it does not have the range needed. I test road a bike with a 5 speed hub and had no problem flying up hills.
Aside from stretching the frame and fork a bit to fit the modern hubs are there other issues to give me nightmares and question doing this project? I read on a little vintage raleigh blog that somebody put a new fork on because the original fork drop outs cannot take modern hubs. Is this true or false? It is possible to put a modern drum brake hub on the fork?

I know there are endless threads on the forum about raleigh sports and wheels. I am trying to decide whether to go up to 700 or down to 650b. I want to keep the fenders and have read that one can fit 32 or 35 width wheels on with fenders.
Are the new 26x 1 3/8 rims strong enough for internal and drum brake hubs?
Thanks.

You're familiar with Sheldon, right?
http://sheldonbrown.com/raleigh26.html

Personal opinion...

I would go with the modern SA dyno drum in the front (90mm) and the 5 speed drum in the rear. I would stay with the original 590 rim size and use Sun CR-18 rims. You should be able to reuse the original fork with some slight modifications. Spreading it and filing the slots to widen them up. I believe you will have to cold set the rear frame a bit too. IIRC about 10mm.

I just built up a set of wheels using CR-18 rims and the hubs I suggested. They happen to be 700c because of the bike they are going on.

I see nothing wrong with what you are doing, and would probably do the same. I love my old Raleigh Sports/Superbes and the way they ride, upgrading the wheels only makes them better.

Aaron :)

I'm in the process of redoing the cables on a winter bike and I use the SA drum brakes... the 5 speed drum needs 130mm dropouts in the rear... personally I think with a 90mm drum in the front, caliper brakes would be all that is needed in the rear, the 90mm 5 speed hub weigh ~1800g on its own. I was running a 70mm drum on a fixed as the only brake and it stopped my 250lbs without any concern. This depends on the terrain and speed you ride though, I plod along rolling hills mostly. I recently build up some cr-18s in the 590 size and they were nice rims at a great price. I think they might be available polished in that size.

I'm in the process of redoing the cables on a winter bike and I use the SA drum brakes... the 5 speed drum needs 130mm dropouts in the rear... personally I think with a 90mm drum in the front, caliper brakes would be all that is needed in the rear, the 90mm 5 speed hub weigh ~1800g on its own. I was running a 70mm drum on a fixed as the only brake and it stopped my 250lbs without any concern. This depends on the terrain and speed you ride though, I plod along rolling hills mostly. I recently build up some cr-18s in the 590 size and they were nice rims at a great price. I think they might be available polished in that size.

CR-18's are available polished in several sizes. The 700C's that I just built are polished. I want the 90mm drum on the front, the rear I used 70mm because I could not source a 90mm 5speed hub. I have a tendency to over size the brakes on my city bike builds. Fully loaded with groceries I can top 350#. I also shy away from rim brakes on city/utility bikes as a general rule. I prefer the roller/drums for that application, nearly maintenance free and weather proof.

Aaron :)

@clasher: where did you source CR18s in 590 in this area (SW Ontario) at a great price? I've been using Alex rims as they are decent enough and under $25 each...but would prefer polished CR18s if I could get them inexpensively....(I'm "frugal" enough to not want to put $200+ worth of wheels on a $60 bike).

Actually, same with more modern IGH and drum brakes.....I calculated building up a decent wheel set with new parts would be around $400...which is more than I paid for any of my C&V bikes....

@clasher: where did you source CR18s in 590 in this area (SW Ontario) at a great price? I've been using Alex rims as they are decent enough and under $25 each...but would prefer polished CR18s if I could get them inexpensively....(I'm "frugal" enough to not want to put $200+ worth of wheels on a $60 bike).

Actually, same with more modern IGH and drum brakes.....I calculated building up a decent wheel set with new parts would be around $400...which is more than I paid for any of my C&V bikes....

I am in US I typically pay ~$35-40usd for polished CR-18's a bit less for the satin finish. My average wheel builds cost $160 a wheel, but I use IG hubs, roller brakes, dyno hubs or drum brakes, all of which run the costs up. But when done they are solid wheels that will last for years of daily use. I also am not afraid to tear a wheel down and reuse hubs on different bikes if the need arises.

I am building up spare wheels for our Raleigh Superbe and Colt with hubs I got off ebay. I am going back with the correct period hubs, just new rims and stainless spokes. Another odd thing to keep in mind if you are using the steel shell vintage hubs, use spoke washers to help keep the spokes from fatiguing.

Aaron :)

Oh yes I know about Sheldon sailorbenjamin. I have not seen that page, or not read it in a very long time, so Thanks! Very helpful!
Thanks for your imput. I would like polished rims. Are there enough tire options for the 590 size? I like the tread of the grand bois hetres for example which is what my raleighs have. I would also like to hear from people who have gone with 700 wheels.
I live in the pacific northwest and do have killer hills, but on work commutes and rides into the nearest town, there are flatter routes and would stick to those. So, still undecided about 5 or 8 speeds.

I just looked at the SUN ringle site and they do not list a CR-18 in the 590 size. Do I have to ask around for them?

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/rims/590.html

I have a Schwinn LeTour that I am fixing up in the manner Aaron suggests. Can't tell you much yet about this combo, because I've only taken it for one test ride before grad school took over ... 8 months ago. Sigh. This spring. I promise.

Wheels sure are beautiful, heavy, and cost something that I don't remember on purpose.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5148/5590540454_d56e1d5945_z.jpg

Wheels were made by the good people (person?) at Ypsilanti Cycle. Fast, friendly service and a cool free t-shirt with wheel purchase.

@clasher: where did you source CR18s in 590 in this area (SW Ontario) at a great price? I've been using Alex rims as they are decent enough and under $25 each...but would prefer polished CR18s if I could get them inexpensively....(I'm "frugal" enough to not want to put $200+ worth of wheels on a $60 bike).


I think I snagged one pair at niagara cycle in person a while back while I was in the states... I've been meaning to enquire at the LBS about them as they seem to be sold from a few different sources online so I imagine norco or one of the other bigger distributers in Canada could list them too. Locally I've bought generic rims that look like CR18s but they don't have any labels, the distributor was babac so any LBS that can order from them could get them, I think they were 20$ a hoop and they seemed true, used them to rebuild an old 3 speed wheelset and was pleased with the outcome. Spoke lengths were the same as the original so that's why I think it's a generic version of the cr-18.

British 26" rims are 590mm also known as 650A. 650B are 584mm rims which will fit your current frame with more clearance for wider tires. 700c rims are 622mm which likely won't fit your frame if it was designed for 26"/650A/590mm rims.

British 26" rims are 590mm also known as 650A. 650B are 584mm rims which will fit your current frame with more clearance for wider tires. 700c rims are 622mm which likely won't fit your frame if it was designed for 26"/650A/590mm rims.

700c rims will fit the Raleigh Sports frame. Tis a very tight fit with stock fenders, though. With Planet Bike fenders, not so much.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/bikamper/P9170212.jpg

I have a Raleigh Sports that I will be needing a new set of wheels for. I think I will stay with stock 26-1-3/8" but I would like to re-do the shifting cable setup with brazed on cable stops verse clamps.

I have a Raleigh Sports that I will be needing a new set of wheels for. I think I will stick with stock 26-1-3/8" but I would like to re-do the shifting cable setup with brazed on cable stops verse clamps.

Curious as to why a brazed on fulcrum. Going for a cleaner look?

Yes, I saw that the cr-18 650a rims are out there(so cheap!) and quite a few tires to choose from. There is a shop in Vancouver specializing in vintage bikes and upgrading them, so can get some help there. Might as well stick to the size the frame was meant for, plus the fenders are part of the fantasy I've been having for so many years. My other vintage raleigh has the 26x1/4th wheels and I dread to think what's out there to replace the tires. I'd rather not go down to 650b as I fear there may be pedal strike. I am still deciding whether to go with a 5 or 8 speed hub. I got a 5 speed SA hub on ebay, but still not sure. The 3 speed hub on the bike is great, but not enough range, I recently test rode a bike with the SA 5 speed hub and a bike with the nexus 8 speed. I must say I really like the internal geared hubs, had never ridden one before the past few weeks and am now threatening to throw them on all my bikes.
I know that I will probably want to ride this bike everywhere so I want it to handle the terrain reasonably. I am also considering a chaincase to further weather proof the bike.
The filing bit won't be fun.

Yes, I saw that the cr-18 650a rims are out there(so cheap!) and quite a few tires to choose from. There is a shop in Vancouver specializing in vintage bikes and upgrading them, so can get some help there. Might as well stick to the size the frame was meant for, plus the fenders are part of the fantasy I've been having for so many years. My other vintage raleigh has the 26x1/4th wheels and I dread to think what's out there to replace the tires. I'd rather not go down to 650b as I fear there may be pedal strike. I am still deciding whether to go with a 5 or 8 speed hub. I got a 5 speed SA hub on ebay, but still not sure. The 3 speed hub on the bike is great, but not enough range, I recently test rode a bike with the SA 5 speed hub and a bike with the nexus 8 speed. I must say I really like the internal geared hubs, had never ridden one before the past few weeks and am now threatening to throw them on all my bikes.
I know that I will probably want to ride this bike everywhere so I want it to handle the terrain reasonably. I am also considering a chaincase to further weather proof the bike.
The filing bit won't be fun.

Heatherbikes, I think you've got a nice, easily attainable project on your hands. I am of the opinion, as others have responded, that CR-18 rims are your best choice for the bike. Regarding tires here is a list of available 650A tires (http://emptybits.com/650a) that I reference quite often. I think you'll find it useful too.

Yes, I saw that the cr-18 650a rims are out there(so cheap!) and quite a few tires to choose from. There is a shop in Vancouver specializing in vintage bikes and upgrading them, so can get some help there. Might as well stick to the size the frame was meant for, plus the fenders are part of the fantasy I've been having for so many years. My other vintage raleigh has the 26x1/4th wheels and I dread to think what's out there to replace the tires. I'd rather not go down to 650b as I fear there may be pedal strike. I am still deciding whether to go with a 5 or 8 speed hub. I got a 5 speed SA hub on ebay, but still not sure. The 3 speed hub on the bike is great, but not enough range, I recently test rode a bike with the SA 5 speed hub and a bike with the nexus 8 speed. I must say I really like the internal geared hubs, had never ridden one before the past few weeks and am now threatening to throw them on all my bikes.
I know that I will probably want to ride this bike everywhere so I want it to handle the terrain reasonably. I am also considering a chaincase to further weather proof the bike.
The filing bit won't be fun.

Sounds like a plan to me! :thumb:

I am mildly changing things around on our Superbe/Colt and Tourist. The Superbe is getting CR-18 rims, stainless spokes and a 4 speed hub. The Colt is getting a CR 18 rims, stainless spokes, coaster brake 3 speed and a dyno hub. The Tourist is getting 5 speed dyno hub, stainless spokes, chain case, rack/stand and a proper white tail and fender reflector....and the torture never stops...:D

Aaron :)

Curious as to why a brazed on fulcrum. Going for a cleaner look?

Yes, I was looking for a cleaner look. Although I'm sure I would be better off leaving the cable setup stock. I also would rather use correct period hubs, just new rims and stainless spokes. I don't know enough about the Raleigh Sports yet to decide which hubs to use. I do like the idea of a built-in generator for lights. As far as the tires, I would perfer stock 1-3/8" but a good quality tire.

I do like the looks of these rims and hubs but I think I want 36 spokes. Do these hubs have built-in brakes? Is that why the are so large?

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i19/cutacroshorty/Raleigh%20Sport/5590540454_d56e1d5945_z.jpg

I do not suggest brazing on the fulcrum unless you have the ability to either build your own cables or have a huge stash of nos cables in the proper length.

I do not suggest brazing on the fulcrum unless you have the ability to either build your own cables or have a huge stash of nos cables in the proper length.

You are correct. I would just like a cleaner look but I don't think I want to tackle that sort of change. I use a nice set of clamps.

Yes, I was looking for a cleaner look. Although I'm sure I would be better off leaving the cable setup stock. I also would rather use correct period hubs, just new rims and stainless spokes. I don't know enough about the Raleigh Sports yet to decide which hubs to use. I do like the idea of a built-in generator for lights. As far as the tires, I would perfer stock 1-3/8" but a good quality tire.

I do like the looks of these rims and hubs but I think I want 36 spokes. Do these hubs have built-in brakes? Is that why the are so large?


IIRC that is a 5 speed hub with drum brake and the front is a dyno drum. I have a similar set of wheels built up. Those wheels are 27", mine are 700c. You can buy the CR-18 polished in the 590 (26x1-3/8") in several different drillings. I just ordered up 3@36 and one @40.

Aaron :)

I think I will stay with 36 spokes front and back.

Is the only difference between a Sturmey Archer X-FD Front 70mm Drum brake and a XL-FDD is that the X-FD is a 36 spoke setup?

The model designation has nothing to do with spoke count but with features of the hub.

The X-FD is a 70mm drum brake only, whereas the XL-FDD is a 90mm drum brake with a dynamo.

I think I will stay with 36 spokes front and back.

If you are using new hubs that is about all that is available. I haven't seen a 40 spoke new IGH hub, there are some NOS out there though.

Aaron :)

heatherbikes, welcome, and this is a nice project.

Those brakes really should work. I've worked on countless Sportses, and they are good brakes, especially with Kool Stop pads, and even better with alu rims, such as the rims you'll be putting on. I've rebuilt some 3-speed wheels with CR18's, and it went well. I'm in the middle of a pair right now, for a friend.

You may want to consider switching to 700c wheels. If you do this, you may have to change fenders, as noted above. There's a huge variety of 700c tires available. Most 650a tires aren't very good. The key exception is the Panaracer Col De La Vie tire. It gets excellent reviews. I happen to like Panaracer tires best.

There's a lot of 3-speed enthusiasm here, so stick around.

Now what do I do? Stripping the Raleigh Sports getting it ready to send out for paint I proceeded to remove the BB. Everything came out ok except one cup. I don't have the special tool for this cup but I don't think it would come out even if I did have it. I used a punch and hammer and it wouldn't budge. If the cup bearing surface is in decent shape can I just have it painted leaving the cup where it is?

I'm letting it soak in penetrating oil for a couple of days and see what happen then.

Now what do I do? Stripping the Raleigh Sports getting it ready to send out for paint I proceeded to remove the BB. Everything came out ok except one cup. I don't have the special tool for this cup but I don't think it would come out even if I did have it. I used a punch and hammer and it wouldn't budge. If the cup bearing surface is in decent shape can I just have it painted leaving the cup where it is?

I'm letting it soak in penetrating oil for a couple of days and see what happen then.

Without the right tool, you may never get it out. Most likely, you'll need this (http://bikesmithdesign.com/BBTool/index.html). I have one and it is the bees knees atmo!

Now what do I do? Stripping the Raleigh Sports getting it ready to send out for paint I proceeded to remove the BB. Everything came out ok except one cup. I don't have the special tool for this cup but I don't think it would come out even if I did have it. I used a punch and hammer and it wouldn't budge. If the cup bearing surface is in decent shape can I just have it painted leaving the cup where it is?

I'm letting it soak in penetrating oil for a couple of days and see what happen then.

Forgive me if my question offends. But it can't hurt to cover all the bases. Are you sure you're turning it in the right direction? The fixed cup is has a left handed thread.

Without the right tool, you may never get it out. Most likely, you'll need this (http://bikesmithdesign.com/BBTool/index.html). I have one and it is the bees knees atmo!

That looks like exactly what I need. Thanks a lot for the help. I just got through talking to Mark and ordering his Fixed Cup Tool for English 3 Speeds.

Heatherbikes,

I'd stick with 650A rims, really I would. The CR18 is a fine rim, and the Panaracer col-de-la-vie is a very nice tire. Really can't go wrong there.

Forgive me if my question offends. But it can't hurt to cover all the bases. Are you sure you're turning it in the right direction? The fixed cup is has a left handed thread.

Good point Rudi. The first time I removed a freewheel in my vise, I was actually tightening it! Eventually I figured it out, but still...

Heatherbikes,

I'd stick with 650A rims, really I would. The CR18 is a fine rim, and the Panaracer col-de-la-vie is a very nice tire. Really can't go wrong there.

There are a couple of other brands of tires out there too. I have a set of Michelin World Tours that aren't bad an Schwalbe makes the Delta Cruiser. FWIW I run Col de Vie on my Superbe but run Kenda or Bell on my Sports beer run bike. I ran the cheapest tires I could find for years on my Sports when I was using it as a commuter and it rode just fine. While the nice tires do help the ride a fair bit they aren't the deal breaker, having a running bike is IMHO.

Aaron :)

While I wouldn't discourage anyone from building upgraded wheels/hubs for a daily rider, you might also look into just changing the rear sprocket on the existing rear hub. My Sprite became a much more ridable bike after I but a 21t rear sprocket on it.

That looks like exactly what I need. Thanks a lot for the help. I just got through talking to Mark and ordering his Fixed Cup Tool for English 3 Speeds.

Did you tell Mark I sent you? I get a kickback if you mention my name! :p

Hi, I was given a raleigh sports-late 60's or early 70's bronze green. I thought I was the luckiest girl in the world as I have wanted one for most of my life! The brakes are toast so it does not stop and have only gone on cautious rides. It's in pretty good shape, but not a museum collectors item. I would like to make it a rider as I already have a shiny vintage raleigh in mostly original condition that only comes out on nice days. I commute rather long distances and have hills to deal with.
The wheels are in poor shape with rust, broken spokes and a damaged front hub. I would like to build new alloy wheels with drum brakes and an internal hub with drum brake like the sturmey archer 5 or 8 speed hubs. As much as I'd like to keep the 3 speed which works well, I have tested it on roads I ride daily and it does not have the range needed. I test road a bike with a 5 speed hub and had no problem flying up hills.
Aside from stretching the frame and fork a bit to fit the modern hubs are there other issues to give me nightmares and question doing this project? I read on a little vintage raleigh blog that somebody put a new fork on because the original fork drop outs cannot take modern hubs. Is this true or false? It is possible to put a modern drum brake hub on the fork?

I know there are endless threads on the forum about raleigh sports and wheels. I am trying to decide whether to go up to 700 or down to 650b. I want to keep the fenders and have read that one can fit 32 or 35 width wheels on with fenders.
Are the new 26x 1 3/8 rims strong enough for internal and drum brake hubs?
Thanks.

First, and I think foremost, the standard AW Sturmey hub that was
original on most of these has a pretty wide range between highest
and lowest gears. About as wide as a lot of 5 speed IG hubs, they
just have more choices in between.

So are you certain that the "flying uphill" was not due to the fact
that the bike you tested the modern hub on had alloy rims and
decent tires?

Here are pictures of my own beast of burden here in Sacratomato, CA.

236666236667236668

The wheels are stock Raleigh hubs (the rear is an AW) laced to
readily available 26"(ISO 559) MTB alloy rims with 14G DT Swiss spokes.

I wouldn't say it "flies" uphill, but it does about as good a job as
most of my crit cogged road bikes. Schwalbe Marathon tires help
a great deal. You do have to find some brakes with enough reach
to make the switch, but you are talking new brakes anyway.

The advantages are pretty obvious...wide range of high quality
tires are easily available, you can mount tires big enough to
deal with urban road conditions, and the resulting wheels are
about as bombproof as I could make them. The smaller wheel
radius also changes the trail a little, making the bike steer a
little quicker.....which I like, but YMMV.:p


There are a couple of things you ought to know before you
lace a wheel using an AW hub in terms of the flange/spoke
junction, and you probably ought to modify your front hub
so it is locknutted on both sides. Otherwise, you will probably
do OK with something similar. But there are certainly other
options as described.:thumb:

I know there are endless threads on the forum about raleigh sports and wheels. I am trying to decide whether to go up to 700 or down to 650b. I want to keep the fenders and have read that one can fit 32 or 35 width wheels on with fenders. Are the new 26x 1 3/8 rims strong enough for internal and drum brake hubs? Thanks.

You're referring to the 3-speed Sports model, yes? I'd use Sun CR-18 26" x 1-3/8" rims. They're a drop-in replacement for the OEM rims, but made out of aluminum so your brakes will actually work in the rain. Hub brakes will work fine with the Sun rims, otherwise Tektro makes a long-reach dual-pivot brake caliper that doesn't look out of place on a vintage bike.

HTH & have fun...

While I wouldn't discourage anyone from building upgraded wheels/hubs for a daily rider, you might also look into just changing the rear sprocket on the existing rear hub. My Sprite became a much more ridable bike after I but a 21t rear sprocket on it.

I'm have a supply of 24t cogs I purchased of German eBay and am putting on my bikes as I have the opportunity. Mark Stonich (http://bikesmithdesign.com/cogs/index.html) has them for sale too. That made my bikes far more usable than previously since I have lots of hills where I live.

Forgive me if my question offends. But it can't hurt to cover all the bases. Are you sure you're turning it in the right direction? The fixed cup is has a left handed thread.

I'm not offended at all. After a while I did in fact realize it could be a left-handed thread. Thank you for bringing that to my attention. I can use all of the help I can get.

Did you tell Mark I sent you? I get a kickback if you mention my name! :p

I did mention that someone on the Bike Forums recommended him but I didn't mention your username. Sorry!

I did mention that someone on the Bike Forums recommended him but I didn't mention your username. Sorry!

No problem silvercreek!! And, btw since I don't want anyone to think it is really true, I do NOT get kickbacks from Mark. His stuff just caters to various bicycling needs that intersect with mine. Oh, and he's a helluva nice guy too!

Heatherbikes,

I'd stick with 650A rims, really I would. The CR18 is a fine rim, and the Panaracer col-de-la-vie is a very nice tire. Really can't go wrong there.

+1 A Raleigh Sports is not a lightweight, racing bike. Makes sense to me that it shouldn't get a narrow tire. With 700c you're going to be limited in tire size.

+1 A Raleigh Sports is not a lightweight, racing bike. Makes sense to me that it shouldn't get a narrow tire. With 700c you're going to be limited in tire size.

Think of it as a poor man's (or woman's) 650B (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/536222-650A-vs-650B-trying-to-make-sense-of-it-all) and you'll be on the right track.

Thanks, I found that 650A tire site and decided to stick with 650A. The panaracer col de la vie sound like the best bet. The schwalbe delta cruisers are said to be pretty good, but I have never liked the look of them. I wish they offered the 650a size in brown.
I know if I changed the rear cog, I might get a bit more range out of the 3 speed hub, but I do want to be able to ride the bike without too much limitation of where I can go. I have tried getting up some of the hills on my property with much huffing and puffing. As for the brakes, I want drum brakes to avoid the issue of constantly wearing down brake pads in the gritty salty mucky grime which I ride in much of the year. My other raleigh has a 5 speed derailleur drivetrain and I had to put a mega range to get up any of the hills I ride. I will keep the hub and hopefully use it someday.
All the small details will probably cause headaches. I will leave the bottom bracket alone and keep the heron cottered crank for now.
The frame needs a good scrub down etc..
I am trying to convince my husband to get a raleigh sport/superb or similar bike to turn into a commuter, but he wants something new and already working like a linus.

Thanks, I found that 650A tire site and decided to stick with 650A. The panaracer col de la vie sound like the best bet. The schwalbe delta cruisers are said to be pretty good, but I have never liked the look of them. I wish they offered the 650a size in brown.
I know if I changed the rear cog, I might get a bit more range out of the 3 speed hub, but I do want to be able to ride the bike without too much limitation of where I can go. I have tried getting up some of the hills on my property with much huffing and puffing. As for the brakes, I want drum brakes to avoid the issue of constantly wearing down brake pads in the gritty salty mucky grime which I ride in much of the year. My other raleigh has a 5 speed derailleur drivetrain and I had to put a mega range to get up any of the hills I ride. I will keep the hub and hopefully use it someday.
All the small details will probably cause headaches. I will leave the bottom bracket alone and keep the heron cottered crank for now.
The frame needs a good scrub down etc..
I am trying to convince my husband to get a raleigh sport/superb or similar bike to turn into a commuter, but he wants something new and already working like a linus.

Pffft! "Already working." What fun is that?

No problem silvercreek!! And, btw since I don't want anyone to think it is really true, I do NOT get kickbacks from Mark. His stuff just caters to various bicycling needs that intersect with mine. Oh, and he's a helluva nice guy too!

Mark sounds like a real nice guy.

Will a 1953 Rudge Sports Caliper Brake Set and Handlebars Levers mount and work on my '76 Raleigh Sports? I suspect they will but I thought I should ask first.

Thanks, I found that 650A tire site and decided to stick with 650A. The panaracer col de la vie sound like the best bet. The schwalbe delta cruisers are said to be pretty good, but I have never liked the look of them. I wish they offered the 650a size in brown.
I know if I changed the rear cog, I might get a bit more range out of the 3 speed hub, but I do want to be able to ride the bike without too much limitation of where I can go. I have tried getting up some of the hills on my property with much huffing and puffing. As for the brakes, I want drum brakes to avoid the issue of constantly wearing down brake pads in the gritty salty mucky grime which I ride in much of the year. My other raleigh has a 5 speed derailleur drivetrain and I had to put a mega range to get up any of the hills I ride. I will keep the hub and hopefully use it someday.
All the small details will probably cause headaches. I will leave the bottom bracket alone and keep the heron cottered crank for now.
The frame needs a good scrub down etc..
I am trying to convince my husband to get a raleigh sport/superb or similar bike to turn into a commuter, but he wants something new and already working like a linus.

He'll be sorry!! The Linus is not a particularly weather proof bike, they are not nearly as well built as the Raleigh was. There are multiple reports of the Linus starting to rust after just a few months of typical daily rider exposure. The Raleighs rust...eventually but they are built like tanks so a bit of surface rust is nothing to worry about. FWIW my 1972 Sports spent the better part of 10 years outside being used as a daily commuter and a college bike. Only maintenance was a bit of oil on the chain when needed and a wipe down with an oily rag a once every month or so. Wear out parts were replaced on an as needed basis. That bike has over 30,000 miles on it and is still chugging along.

Aaron :)