Touring - Surly Trucker Deluxe: Share your dreams with me :D

I've learned a great deal from these forums including how strong my urge to tour has become. I commute ~100 miles/wk with a Trek FX 7.3 and am ready to build up a Trucker Deluxe 62cm for the big trips! 130 mile weekenders through mountains will be very common, a 400mile-or-so tour's being planned for this summer, and I intend to take it for 3-week tours abroad in the coming years.

My question to y'all: What sort of components would you recommend to a bike-building newbie with the goal of keeping prices under or near $3000? Would you rather ride XT's or 105s? STIs or Bar-ends? Anyone get stuck walking up an incline for lack of 11t? Will I be laughed out of my LBS for understanding aesthetics more than cranksets?

My ideal kit so far includes
-62cm frame ( I'm 6'5" 215 lbs)
-Drop bars (wide or standard??)
-Red Grand Bois tires - 650b's fit apparently, and BEAUTIFULLY (http://www.flickr.com/photos/bluelug/6775639949/in/set-72157624214818224/)
-Honjo fenders
-grey Ortlieb front/rear/handlebar packs
-Dynohub
-Brooks Honey Flyer Saddle and matching tape
-Cantilever brakes

What do you think? Thanks!

Here is the touring bike build list


Handle bar: Salsa 42mm woodchipper

Stem: Forte MTB 120mm

Bar tape: Profile Design

STI Brifter: Tiagra 3x9

Seat post: Thomson Elite

Seat post clamp: Surly

Front derailleur: Tiagra for triple

Crankset: Shimano Deore FC-M590 48-36-22t

Bottom bracket: Shimano Deore external

Rear derailleur: Shimano Deore SGS RD-M591

Cassette: 12-27 Shimano 9 speed

Brakes: Tektro CR720

Headset: Cane Creek

Chain: Shimano 9 speed

Wheelset: 36 spoke Velocity Dyad/Shimano/DT Alpina

Cables: Jagwire

Was this pulled from the Surly website? The Deluxe only takes 26" wheels to accommodate ease of airline travel and international availability. I've also heard the dependable touring groups start at 105 or XT, but that may have just been an upsell. I know I'll be spending enough on this thing already.

I think 26" is still the way to go for a touring bike.

I think I would skip the Honjos and go with Berthoud. A tiny bit more weight, but much more robust

Thanks, great suggestion. So sleek, too!

SLX is cheaper than XT and still nicer than is "needed" actually, it is extremely nice. I would run mountain bike gearing, or at the least a 36 tooth cassette if you plan to use road cranks.

Nice wheels (36 spoke, strong rims, nice hubs like king/phil wood, DT, etc) if the budget allows. I would avoid 650b wheels, much smaller choice in rims/tires and less likely to find any of that at a bike shop, even spokes that fit might be tough to find and not all shops can cut spokes. In all my reading, 26in wheels really are the only way to go if you plan to tour outside the US.

This is a can of worms waiting to be opened but I would run v-brakes over canti's unless you really just like the style of them, v-brakes are easier to set up, less prone to fork chatter, and tend to be more powerful.

Make sure to post plenty of pics when finished btw, sounds like it will be a very nice build.

I agree with the advice so far: avoid 650B (they're not bad, but you better bring spare tires) and V-brakes would be my choice over canti's... I have 26" tires and v-brakes on my LHT, I wouldn't change it. Definitely not road gears, I'd stick with XT stuff. Maybe a Sugino or Velo Orange triple crank... they're much better looking than the Shimano stuff, and nearly as light.

I can't help with shifters... I have downtube ones on mine. :)

Was this pulled from the Surly website? The Deluxe only takes 26" wheels to accommodate ease of airline travel and international availability. I've also heard the dependable touring groups start at 105 or XT, but that may have just been an upsell. I know I'll be spending enough on this thing already.

I don't need to copy any website or list to create a build list for touring or road bikes. I don't just dream, I do.

The current build list is for 26" wheels. Only consider a 3x9 drivetrain for heavy, long-distance touring. 3x10 is less durable. Current 105 is 2x10 or 3x10. You will need to find a mixture of NOS and current parts to complete your build. eBay is a good source for NOS cycling parts.

Research cranksets here: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/796325-Crankset-and-bottom-bracket-for-touring

Unless you are unusually narrow, I'd go with the wide bars. I am 6'2" with broad shoulders. One of the things I like about my LHT is that it came with pretty wide bars. 44cm I think. Very comfortable. I have the same on my IF road bike. I got a retrofitting a few years ago at a good shop and they actually suggested that I go with 46cm bars.

Salsa woodchipper handlebars are measured at the center of the bend, just under the brake lever

42cm woodchipper

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll210/wildcat-bucket/Windsor006-1.jpg

46cm woodchipper


http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll210/wildcat-bucket/CX700011.jpg

The Salsa Woodchippers are interesting, but you might give the 46 cm. Nitto Noodle bars a look. I'm 6-4, and I find them very comfortable.

You might have a look at these components:

VO aheadset (sealed bearing, very nice finish)
Cafam cantis
VO stem
Silver shifters (friction bar ends; none better)
XT hubs
Velocity rims, offset rear
Phil bottom bracket
XT derailleurs
Nitto seatpost
Brooks saddle of choice (you specified the Flyer -- nice pick)
Sugino XD cranks
SRAM chain. It's not mentioned earlier in this string, but I much prefer it to Shimano, and it shifts great with the Shimano derailleurs. I like that it doesn't take a chain breaker to remove and replace, and should it break, a spare gold link can effect the fix on the roadside with a minimum of trouble. I run Honjo fluted fenders, and I like them fine. If you're looking for something a little different, have a look at Woody's fenders.

I'd forget building the "ultimate" touring bike, because your idea of "ultimate" is likely to evolve. Buy a stock LHT, change the saddle and pedals if you wish, and go ride it. Change stuff as it wears out or you want something different.

Tires and bar tape are consumables; don't worry about them, except for wheel size. And stick with what you can get at an LBS when there's only one in the next 150 miles and you notice your tire's wearing through -- 700C or 26".

Dyno hubs are great if you're commuting through the winter. Why do you think you want to tour at night?

Ortliebs are great. I'd suggest you go with the orange or yellow though, to give you a bit more visibility in heavy overcast, rain, or fog. Start with handlebar bag and Sportspacker for your shorter trips; you can buy the bigger bags later, if you want them.

All IMHO, of course!

This is my latest "ultimate" touring bike build. It did not include 26" wheels. I don't plan on cycling through Mongolia any time soon; and if I do, I'll build up a suitable bike.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy112/Doug64_photos/IMG_1934-1.jpg

Great advice all, thanks so very much! The reason I'm going for a build rather than stock is I definitely want something easy to pack. I plan on taking trips over mountains and enjoying train rides back for quick weekend rides, but the ultimate goal is each year taking three-week tours through Europe, S. America, Australia, and the like. The Deluxe would be ideal for packing and it helps that it comes in a pretty color :D Unfortunately for me, they're sold as framesets only, which is why I'm entertaining the notion of starting my list with the best and adjusting accordingly to match my budget. It's a shame 650b's aren't as popular yet, as they sound like the ideal middle ground for a larger touring bike (at least according to Sheldon Brown)

Doug64, how do you like your Rollers? Any complaints trying to access gear in the back, or is it just a paltry inconvenience?

Don't want to go disc brake?

Doug64, how do you like your Rollers? Any complaints trying to access gear in the back, or is it just a paltry inconvenience?

They are great. I would not even call them inconvenient to use. However, my wife has a set of Packer Pluses, and swears by them. The rear ones have almost 8,000 miles on them, and they are still in great shape. The other Ortlieb gear was acquired incrementally over the last 4 years to replace worn out or unsatisfactory gear. Ortliebs tend to spoil a guy.:)

Have you considered going to a 11/12-34 cassette? That will give you a really nice range.

I'm currently building a Trucker Deluxe also, expedition style, here's my specs:

Frame: Surly Trucker Deluxe, midnight blue, 2011
Size: 54cm, 26" wheels
Fork: Surly uncut steer tube, lugged and brazed
Headset: Ritchey Logic Comp, 1-1/8" threadless, black
Front Derailleur: Shimano Tiagra FD-4403 triple
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore LX, RD-M581, SGS, long cage
Shifters: Shimano SL-BS64 Bar-end, 8-speed
Crankset: Sugino XD600, 46-36-24t, 170mm arms
Bottom Bracket: Shimano UN54, 68x113mm
Seatpost: Kalloy Uno, 27.2, 350mm, black
Seatpost Clamp: Salsa, black
Handlebars: Nitto North Road, 25.4mm clamp, 550mm width, CroMoly
Brake Levers: Tektro RL520 Ergo, black
Brakes: Shimano Deore XT, BR-M770, V-brakes
Brake Pads: Kool Stop
Saddle: Brooks B67, honey
Hubs: Shimano XT, HU-M770, 36h, silver
Spokes: DT Swiss, stainless, silver
Rims: 26", Mavic XM719 , 36h, black
Cassette SRAM PG850 8-speed, 11-32t
Chain: SRAM PC-870, 8-speed
Cables: Jagwire
Cable Separators: Easy-Split In-Line
Tires: Schwalbe Marathon Extreme, 26x2.0
Fenders: SKS, P65mm, Chromoplastic, black

himespau, I originally wanted to go with disc brakes but talked myself out of them when considering the difficulty of road repair and replacement. A more experienced cyclist may not be as wary as I :) Doug64, a 11-34 cassette does sound great for some of the bigger loads I'll be hauling up into the Sierras! I only worry with 26" tires and MTB gearing I'll feel clunky. Not trying to set landspeed records, but I've ridden 700c's since getting into cycling so the change will take some getting used to. BigAura, looks great! What do you suppose it'll cost in the end? How did you decide on a Tiagra vs Deore front derailleur?

I only worry with 26" tires and MTB gearing I'll feel clunky.

Wait to you see what a 62cm frame looks like with 26" wheels;)

The cassette/derailleur combination won't feel at all clunky.

I run a full mountain drive train and it does not add anything to the "clunkiness" of a LHT.

When it comes to touring bikes, I think function wins out over form.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy112/Doug64_photos/CoMo%20and%20LHT/DSC_0064-2-2.jpg

Wait to you see what a 62cm frame looks like with 26" wheels;)

Ha ha, yes. I'm trying to grow accustomed to the look already by staring at this picture obsessively: http://www.flickr.com/photos/45715354@N06/6472618479/in/photostream/

Here is the touring bike build list



Almost but I'd suggest some changes:

Handle bar: Salsa Bell Lap in the proper width for your shoulders. Bell Laps have a bit of flare but not as much as the Wood Chipper. Riding on the hoods of the Wood Chipper could be uncomfortable after a while. Compare this flare with that of the Wood Chipper.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r181/cyccommute/IMG_0172.jpg

Stem: The Forte' is an okay choice but a RaceFace Deus or Salsa Moto isn't all the much more and are nicer units.

Bar tape: I prefer Cinelli or Deda

STI Brifter: Tiagra 3x9

Seat post: A Race Face Evolve or Turbine is easier to adjust. Level and saddle clamping are independent of one another.

Seat post clamp: Surly

Front derailleur: Tiagra for triple. No argument here. Best triple front derailer around.

Crankset: Shimano Deore FC-M590 48-36-22t. Third best choice. First best is a tie between an XT trekking crank and a old 5-arm ISIS RaceFace Turbine with a 58mm inner bolt ring diameter. The 58mm lets you run a 20 tooth inner.

Bottom bracket: Shimano Deore external. Okay but if you have the money, you can't go wrong with Phil or King.

Rear derailleur: Shimano Deore SGS RD-M591. I'd go normal rise XT or XTR. Derailers are fairly cheap and the higher end stuff gives the bike a 'Wow!' factor

Cassette: 11-34 9 speed or, if you can find one, an 11-36.

Brakes: Tektro CR720. Okay but if you can swing it, go with Paul's touring.

Headset: Chris King. Yea, it's expensive but it's an American product (as are the Paul brakes and the Phil bottom bracket) and it comes in purty colors. It'll outlast a dozen bikes too.

Chain: Shimano 9 speed Only if you ditch the stupid replacement pin and go with a master link. Or just buy a Sram chain to begin with.

Wheelset: 36 spoke Velocity Dyad/Shimano/DT Alpin[e III]. I corrected it. The Dyad is okay and I like the idea of a shorter spoke with the higher center ridge but I'd probably choose a Synergy with an O/C for the rear to take advantage of the decreased dishing. I'd go with a set of Phil Wood hubs too. Easiest hubs to tear down in the middle of no where if you have to.

Cables: Jagwire Just as long as the inner wire is teflon coated.

I'll add

Racks: Tubus front and rear

Brake pads: Kool Stop dual compound MTB pads

Bags: Ortlieb. Front, rear and handlebar bag

Water bottle cages: King cages (out of Durango)

Pump: Topeak Road Morph, of course:thumb:

And for a bit of color: Purely Custom bar ends, stem cap, spacers, valve stem cover and other shiny bits.

Almost.

Almost..? Almost what?

I'm glad you have an opinion, but I'll stick with mine.

If a component change makes a bike significantly more comfortable, faster or more reliable, great.

If a build if driven by name-brand preference and the cost is higher, why the disrespect?

Almost? Almost what?

I'm glad you have an opinion, but I'll stick with mine.

If a a component change makes a bike significantly more comfortable, faster or more reliable, great.

If a build if driven by name-brand preference and the cost is higher, why the disrespect?

Sorry but no disrespect intended nor offered. Should have read something like "Almost a good list but I'd suggest some changes". I thought you were offering a 'dream' bike ...not necessarily your own build list. You did cut out the rest of my sentence in your quote.

The suggestions that I made for components are based on a number of factors of which name-brand isn't the most important. Examples: I've found Cinelli and Deda tape to be more durable than Profile Design. A Race Face seatpost is easier to setup than any post on the market...and I noticed you dropped a name there in your list. Paul cantilever brakes are easier to set up than just about anything I've ever used. Phil Wood hubs are, deservedly, legendary. Being able to take the hubs apart with a 5 mm allen wrench makes them superior to any other hub on the market. The whole cassette body comes off making spoke changes a snap and much easier than trying to remove the cassette with a Hypercracker. A Chris King headset will last for decades without any maintenance.

My list is basically how my touring bike is set up and I used components based on durability, ease of service and, yes, a little bling factor. But meileiblvd's thread is titled "Surly Trucker Deluxe: Share your dreams with me" and he has a budget of $3000. My bike's cost is right at that price point and it include the original purchase price ($900) of the Cannondale T800 that I stripped the parts off of to pimp my ride;)

If you are going to dream, dream big:thumb:

I've learned a great deal from these forums including how strong my urge to tour has become. I commute ~100 miles/wk with a Trek FX 7.3 and am ready to build up a Trucker Deluxe 62cm for the big trips! 130 mile weekenders through mountains will be very common, a 400mile-or-so tour's being planned for this summer, and I intend to take it for 3-week tours abroad in the coming years.

My question to y'all: What sort of components would you recommend to a bike-building newbie with the goal of keeping prices under or near $3000? Would you rather ride XT's or 105s? STIs or Bar-ends? Anyone get stuck walking up an incline for lack of 11t? Will I be laughed out of my LBS for understanding aesthetics more than cranksets?

My ideal kit so far includes
-62cm frame ( I'm 6'5" 215 lbs)
-Drop bars (wide or standard??)
-Red Grand Bois tires - 650b's fit apparently, and BEAUTIFULLY (http://www.flickr.com/photos/bluelug/6775639949/in/set-72157624214818224/)
-Honjo fenders
-grey Ortlieb front/rear/handlebar packs
-Dynohub
-Brooks Honey Flyer Saddle and matching tape
-Cantilever brakes

What do you think? Thanks!

Go with yellow or, at least red, panniers. Gray, black, blue, etc tend to get lost in the world. They look nice and all but if you don't have a third dimension* to appreciate them, they aren't of much use.



*I.e. you get squished:eek:

Sorry but no disrespect intended nor offered. Should have read something like "Almost a good list but I'd suggest some changes". I thought you were offering a 'dream' bike ...not necessarily your own build list. You did cut out the rest of my sentence in your quote.

The suggestions that I made for components are based on a number of factors of which name-brand isn't the most important. Examples: I've found Cinelli and Deda tape to be more durable than Profile Design. A Race Face seatpost is easier to setup than any post on the market...and I noticed you dropped a name there in your list. Paul cantilever brakes are easier to set up than just about anything I've ever used. Phil Wood hubs are, deservedly, legendary. Being able to take the hubs apart with a 5 mm allen wrench makes them superior to any other hub on the market. The whole cassette body comes off making spoke changes a snap and much easier than trying to remove the cassette with a Hypercracker. A Chris King headset will last for decades without any maintenance.

My list is basically how my touring bike is set up and I used components based on durability, ease of service and, yes, a little bling factor. But meileiblvd's thread is titled "Surly Trucker Deluxe: Share your dreams with me" and he has a budget of $3000. My bike's cost is right at that price point and it include the original purchase price ($900) of the Cannondale T800 that I stripped the parts off of to pimp my ride;)

If you are going to dream, dream big:thumb:

It's always fun to read a quasi-explanation. Are you in Marketing?

Build lists are very individualized and usually evolve over time. A lot of the choices are based on personal preference, potential use, economics, bad advice, good advice, experience, lack of experience, and mechanical limitations. My build list that has worked on 3 bikes so far, still works very well for me; but it may not even be an "almost" list for someone else. It is not even perfect for me, but I feel that it is a good blend of reliability and economics. Yes, there is a little bling thrown in too. I believe the OP was looking for ideas, not the "perfect" list.

My advice is to take any advice on this forum (including mine) with a grain of salt.

I saw this the other day. It describes a lot of the issues and discussions that take place in many forums.


"Narcissism of small differences: The need to distinguish oneself by minute shadings and to insist with outsized militancy on the importance of those shadings." (New Yorker, Jan 2--attributed to Freud)

If I were going to build my LHT from scratch with a $3000 budget (mine was $800) I would definitely use a much different parts list.

I really like C&V bikes, and I'm not a huge fan of the high-end Shimano road group. The tiny differences you get going from 105 to Ultegra just aren't worth the money, in my opinion. I'd use the money for small parts and wheels, tires, saddle, etc. instead.

I'd start with a 700C trucker frame (I used a 26" for a few reasons, but mostly for cost... as I said in another thread, you can get lower gearing, strong wheels, and wider tires with 700C, just costs more). I'd get nice shiny bits, seatpost, stem, etc.

The main parts would be Shimano Deore derailers, a VO or Sugino triple crank, top-quality cables, chain, etc. I'd use more comfortable bars. I liked the V-brakes, I would stick with those. I would try to find some more comfortable brake levers, and I would use whatever shifters came with the comfortable brakes... when I'm riding, I'm fine with barcons, downtubes, STI, doesn't matter. Comfort would be most important.

I'd build the wheels with proven, solid parts... I'd spend the extra money on the best set of wheels I could build. Rholoff? Schmidt dynohub? 40 holes? Sun rims? Hard to say, but I would have no problems using any of the high-end hubs like Phil Wood, Chris King, White Industries, even the VO hubs that disassemble. Laced to a good set of rims and a quality drivetrain, you can't go wrong. I'd spend top money on tires, tubes, and the best racks and panniers.

Now... who's gonna give me $3000 to build this? :)

It's always fun to read a quasi-explanation. Are you in Marketing?

Nope. Couldn't sell water to a thirsty man in the desert. Just have lots of experience with upgraditis. I even have a bike that I bought new in 1999 (orange Stumpjumper Pro) that, with a wheel change this winter finally has no original parts left...not even the frame (replaced in 2003).

Nope. Couldn't sell water to a thirsty man in the desert. Just have lots of experience with upgraditis. I even have a bike that I bought new in 1999 (orange Stumpjumper Pro) that, with a wheel change this winter finally has no original parts left...not even the frame (replaced in 2003).

[snicker] Getting there myself. Fork, seatpost, and brakes are left on my 1998 (bought new in 1999) Fuji Touring. Maybe the front skewer, too, come to think of it.

[snicker] Getting there myself. Fork, seatpost, and brakes are left on my 1998 (bought new in 1999) Fuji Touring. Maybe the front skewer, too, come to think of it.

In the guitar world we call it GAS - Gear Acquisition Syndrome.

It hurts...but it hurts so good.

[snicker] Getting there myself. Fork, seatpost, and brakes are left on my 1998 (bought new in 1999) Fuji Touring. Maybe the front skewer, too, come to think of it.

Same with me, my LHT started off as a Schwinn hardtail MTB... only original parts left are the stem and rims. Stem will get replaced soon, rims I will use till they wear out.

edit: Oh yeah, the Tektro brakes are original, too. :)

Nope. Couldn't sell water to a thirsty man in the desert. Just have lots of experience with upgraditis. I even have a bike that I bought new in 1999 (orange Stumpjumper Pro) that, with a wheel change this winter finally has no original parts left...not even the frame (replaced in 2003).

almost there for me. my commuter (bought used) after the upgrades planned (and parts already purchased) in the next month will have frame and fork only original and the only other thing still there from when I purchased it will be fenders. I'm going to replace the headset just because I want the experience and happen to have found a very nice one super cheap.

Phil Wood hubs are, deservedly, legendary. Being able to take the hubs apart with a 5 mm allen wrench makes them superior to any other hub on the market. The whole cassette body comes off making spoke changes a snap and much easier than trying to remove the cassette with a Hypercracker. A Chris King headset will last for decades without any maintenance.
:
Phil hubs are damn nice but if ease of maintenance is the biggest factor, with DT hubs you can remove the freehub and service them with NO TOOLS and they are incredibly durable as well. With that being said, I have worked on and tried almost every hub out there and I will be sold on Kings for a long long time. You can do most service with basic tools found on a multi tool and they last about as long as their headsets. I have never had to replace a single part inside a King hub in the 10 or so neglected hubs I have serviced, just had to clean and re-grease them and they were good to go for a few more years.

My "dream" build would include my Troll frame with Shimano SLX drivetrain. King BB, headset, and hubs laced to a beefy rim. Thompson seatpost/stem, Brooks b17 saddle, Ergon grips. V-brakes or disc (I could be happy with either but leaning toward discs) and Marathon tires.

Phil hubs are damn nice but if ease of maintenance is the biggest factor, with DT hubs you can remove the freehub and service them with NO TOOLS and they are incredibly durable as well.

For a hub that uses 'NO TOOLS', DT has 14 pages of instructions and a list of 12 tools...some that seem quite specialized...for assembly and disassembly. You may be able to take the freehub body off without tools but that's only a small part of the procedure.

I've taken my rear Phils apart and they take a 5mm allen wrench (two is easier). Once the end caps came off everything pulled out without any further tools. The front hubs seem to require a hammer, although a shoe would probably work.

For a hub that uses 'NO TOOLS', DT has 14 pages of instructions and a list of 12 tools...some that seem quite specialized...for assembly and disassembly. You may be able to take the freehub body off without tools but that's only a small part of the procedure.

I've taken my rear Phils apart and they take a 5mm allen wrench (two is easier). Once the end caps came off everything pulled out without any further tools. The front hubs seem to require a hammer, although a shoe would probably work.

I serviced just about every hub DT makes and none of them "required" special tools, most manufactures sell those tools as a way to get a little more profit. With the DT 240, 340 hubs you can service the freehub without any tools at all and replace the bearings with nothing more than a hammer and punch to replace the bearings if it comes to that. I also like how the DT hub uses their "start ratchet" instead of pawls so you have a full 360deg of engagement to transfer power instead of 3 or 6 points with hubs that rely on pawls. It is somewhat similar to the way the kings engage except kings "ring drive" is much larger so you have even more surface area transferring power.

I serviced just about every hub DT makes and none of them "required" special tools, most manufactures sell those tools as a way to get a little more profit. With the DT 240, 340 hubs you can service the freehub without any tools at all and replace the bearings with nothing more than a hammer and punch to replace the bearings if it comes to that.

Just going by what the tech manuals say on the DT. For a procedure that doesn't need any tools, they sure go through a complicated process. Compare the DT procedure...and maintenance novela... (http://www.dtswiss.com/getdoc/1219c0b7-776d-46ea-8625-dedf5ec2de19/Datasheet.aspx) to the Phil Wood procedures for the rear wheel (http://www.philwood.com/philpdfs/FSCinstructions.pdf) and the front wheel (http://www.philwood.com/philpdfs/FSAinstructions.pdf). The Phil procedure sure looks a lot easier and can easily be done in a muddy field if necessary. Like I mentioned before, removal of the end caps on the Phil FSC lets the whole thing fall apart including the bearings.

The third and fourth picture in the FSC instructions demonstrate an important feature for tourists, too. The freehub body comes out with the axle. You don't even need to remove the cassette to remove the freehub. This means that you can replace drive side spokes without removing the lockring or the cassette. I've not seen any other hub that offers that advantage.

I know I'll overhaul everything and repack my old-fashioned ball and cone bearings about once a year, and I've never had a problem. Maybe if I were riding up the Alaska Highway or across Tibet I'd be looking for hubs I could rebuild on the fly. How many people need to service a hub on tour?

Yep...Anyone have a bearing failure on tour? If I leave L.A. and head east,I'll need to servive my hubs when I get to China on my world tour,chances are I'll need a break by then anyways,it'll keep me from roaming the streets at night.

And you sure don't need to spend $350 on a rear hub so you can repair a broken spoke,you can do that for a $1.50 without removing anything,even the wheel if you have too.

All of the bling stuff is great if you want it,but it's not really needed to have a trustworthy touring bike.

In 35 years and Lord knows how many miles,I've had one major failure,I broke a rear hub in half.This was in the days of freewheels and before I knew about bending axles.Hubs can only take so much bending.....Even with a broken hub I rode it about 20 miles to get to the next town to buy a new hub.

Just get what you like,make sure it is of decent quality and you'll be fine.

You can assemble a REALLY NICE bicycle for $3000! ,a couple of them.Go for it and have fun.

I know I'll overhaul everything and repack my old-fashioned ball and cone bearings about once a year, and I've never had a problem. Maybe if I were riding up the Alaska Highway or across Tibet I'd be looking for hubs I could rebuild on the fly. How many people need to service a hub on tour?

It happens. Cartridge bearings like the Phils or DT or King are just one less thing you have to worry about. And a few less tools you might need to carry.

I also ride my bike around home more than I do on tour. Not having to take the hubs apart once a year to service them is a plus. They also run smoother with less fiddling than cone and cup hubs do for much longer.

I like the Bruce Gordon racks I got in the 80's,
I'd buy one of his 'rock and road' bikes .
instead of an off the peg TW import QBP bike.
then I'd spec a Kickstand mount , packing is so much easier
on a freestanding stable bike.

.. but really like my Bike Friday I Got last year , Rohloff Hub,
going abroad involves a lot more hassle than it did in the 90's,
and their travel bikes reduces that hassle significantly.

Just going by what the tech manuals say on the DT. For a procedure that doesn't need any tools, they sure go through a complicated process. Compare the DT procedure...and maintenance novela... (http://www.dtswiss.com/getdoc/1219c0b7-776d-46ea-8625-dedf5ec2de19/Datasheet.aspx) to the Phil Wood procedures for the rear wheel (http://www.philwood.com/philpdfs/FSCinstructions.pdf) and the front wheel (http://www.philwood.com/philpdfs/FSAinstructions.pdf). The Phil procedure sure looks a lot easier and can easily be done in a muddy field if necessary. Like I mentioned before, removal of the end caps on the Phil FSC lets the whole thing fall apart including the bearings.

The third and fourth picture in the FSC instructions demonstrate an important feature for tourists, too. The freehub body comes out with the axle. You don't even need to remove the cassette to remove the freehub. This means that you can replace drive side spokes without removing the lockring or the cassette. I've not seen any other hub that offers that advantage.

No tools for anything except replacing bearings and that is basic tools there... DT Hub service (http://youtu.be/g8ZQJS0IQM0)

You are right, it is rare that you have to work on a hub during a tour but it does happen and when that does come up, it is nice to have it be a simple process. I also like cartridge bearings as well because if you accidentally let it go too far your hub is not ruined and bearings are very cheap.

High zoot hubs certainly not necessary but they are a nice addition if you have the money to spend, quality ones will generally last as long as you want them to because all the wear items are replaceable.

No tools for anything except replacing bearings and that is basic tools there... DT Hub service (http://youtu.be/g8ZQJS0IQM0)

You are right, it is rare that you have to work on a hub during a tour but it does happen and when that does come up, it is nice to have it be a simple process. I also like cartridge bearings as well because if you accidentally let it go too far your hub is not ruined and bearings are very cheap.

High zoot hubs certainly not necessary but they are a nice addition if you have the money to spend, quality ones will generally last as long as you want them to because all the wear items are replaceable.

I think you are missing my point. Taking the freehub body off does seem to be easy but how often do you really need to service the freehub body? The DT service manual details a complicated situation for the removal and replacement of the wheel bearings which are probably going to be the part that you would need to replace if a problem developed.

Additionally, they are starting with a wheel where the cassette has already been removed. That's 90% of the battle in any spoke replacement situation. The fact that the Phil Wood freehub comes out of the hub without having to remove the cassette makes that fix far easier than any hub I've ever used. And you're likely to have to replace spokes on a touring bike much more often than you'll replace bearings.

You can assemble a REALLY NICE bicycle for $3000! ,a couple of them.Go for it and have fun.

Thanks! I'm heading to the shop tomorrow to order and finalize the plans. Bling would be great but really I just want to invest in the most dependable stuff, which sounds like not much of an issue for the budget. Part of that is going towards a Gopro for ride videos, so it's not all going directly on the bike :) Anyone use solar chargers for their phones and the like? I've been looking at this Fuse Solar Charger (http://www.amazon.com/Fuse-Solar-Charger-Bag-Color/dp/B0042B314K/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I11LYFFTD7GJ2F&colid=3JBO2PPIGUGI2).

I'm 6'5 215 as well and went with the 60cm. You'd know your size better than me, but just a reminder to make sure you take not being so "aero" into consideration.

Have any pictures? I'd love to see them! I ride a 25" Trek FX 7.3 comfortably and the Trucker 62cm is almost the exact same size, top tube and stand-over included.

I think you are missing my point. Taking the freehub body off does seem to be easy but how often do you really need to service the freehub body? The DT service manual details a complicated situation for the removal and replacement of the wheel bearings which are probably going to be the part that you would need to replace if a problem developed.

Additionally, they are starting with a wheel where the cassette has already been removed. That's 90% of the battle in any spoke replacement situation. The fact that the Phil Wood freehub comes out of the hub without having to remove the cassette makes that fix far easier than any hub I've ever used. And you're likely to have to replace spokes on a touring bike much more often than you'll replace bearings.

Keeping the cassette on actually makes it even easier to remove the freehub, you have more leverage. You can replace the bearings like most any other sealed cartridge bearing hub with a hammer and a punch if needed in the field even though they sell special tools. King is the same, they sell special tools for their hubs but you can do quite a lot without it, including the bearings. Many manufacturers sell these tools as a way to be able to make a little more money off shops, they do make the job easier for sure but I would rarely call them needed.

I have personally seen a lot more issues with freewheels than actual bearings. Freehub issues stop you, bearings going bad just slow you down, I have never actually seen a bearing failure so bad that the bike was not rideable, not to mention, the only part in sealed cartridge bearing hubs that needs "servicing" is the freehub

Thanks! I'm heading to the shop tomorrow to order and finalize the plans. Bling would be great but really I just want to invest in the most dependable stuff, which sounds like not much of an issue for the budget. Part of that is going towards a Gopro for ride videos, so it's not all going directly on the bike :) Anyone use solar chargers for their phones and the like? I've been looking at this Fuse Solar Charger (http://www.amazon.com/Fuse-Solar-Charger-Bag-Color/dp/B0042B314K/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I11LYFFTD7GJ2F&colid=3JBO2PPIGUGI2).

Always remember, when you get the bike finished, Pics or it didn't happen :thumb:

Well, at the last minute I decided to scale back my budget a bit to make room for camping supplies, so here's what I lifted from the advice in this forum as well as the LHT complete parts list!

Frame/fork: Surly Trucker Deluxe 62cm
Headset: Cane Creek 110 ex cup 1-1/8" threadless 34mm silver
Stem: Dimension threadless 120mm 107* 26.0 silver
Handlebar: Nitto Noodle 177 Silver Alloy 26.0 46cm
Wrap: Brooks Leather honey
Brake Levers: Tektro RL340 black/silver
Brakes: Tektro CR720 Canti silver
Shifters: Shimano 9sp Triple Bar end SL-BS77
Front Derailleur: Shimano Tiagra FD4503 9spd Triple 31.8/28.6mm
Rear Derailleur: Shimano XT Shadow M772
Crankset: Shimano Deore FC-M590 175mm x 48-36-26t
BB: Shimano UN54 68x118
Seatpost: Kalloy 27.2 x 300mm Silver
Saddle: Brooks Flyer honey
Cassette: Shimano Deore HG50 9 Speed 11-32t
Chain: SRAM PC971 9-sp silver
Hubs: Shimano XT M770 36H silver
Spokes: DT Swiss 14g stainless, silver
Rims: Alex DM24 26" 36h Silver
Tires: Schwalbe Marathon HS420 26 x 1.5" Greenguard
Berthoud stainless steel fenders (26x?) (maybe)
Tubus Nova/Cosmo SS front/rear racks (also maybe)

I'm only unsure of the headset's compatibility and the stem's quality, but it's what I could find in silver...

That sounds like a very solid build. The headset you picked out is one of the few rare ones that rival a King headset, actually it is debatable that it is actually nicer than a King. Not to mention the 110 year warranty it comes with!