Bicycle Mechanics - Cane Creek 10 Zero Stack Headset polymer crown race

I just received a Cane Creek 10 ZS headset and it says it includes a lightweight polymer crown race. What I think is the crown race is plastic and has a slit in it like the upper compression ring. Never seeing one of these, can I assume this is the correct race? It sure doesn't look very durable.

http://www.canecreek.com/manuals/Headset_Instructions/Forty%20&%20Ten%20Series/10%20EC%20&%20ZS%20Instructions.pdf

I just received a Cane Creek 10 ZS headset and it says it includes a lightweight polymer crown race. What I think is the crown race is plastic and has a slit in it like the upper compression ring. Never seeing one of these, can I assume this is the correct race? It sure doesn't look very durable.

Durable enough for the job. Remember that crown race is bit of a misnomer in a cartridge bearing headset like these. The real crown race is part of the cartridge bearing, and this is just a centering cone, serving a similar purpose to the one at the top. You still buy headsets according to the fork and frame like you always did.

if you wanted better materials shoulda got the 40 series or better? no?

I just received a Cane Creek 10 ZS headset and it says it includes a lightweight polymer crown race. What I think is the crown race is plastic and has a slit in it like the upper compression ring. Never seeing one of these, can I assume this is the correct race? It sure doesn't look very durable.
I've never seen a plastic "base plate" (as FBinNY noted it isn't really a crown race) but I assume it's durable enough to do the job since the demands are pretty low. As to it's being split, I've got an FSA heasdet with a metal base plate that was also made with a split and it was easy to install with just finger pressure. The split is fine since the plate just supports the lower bearing cartridge and nothing actually rolls on it.

The split is fine since the plate just supports the lower bearing cartridge and nothing actually rolls on it.

Actually the split is a pretty nice design. The lower cone (my name for this) shares the same key design feature of the upper centering cone, which is the critical patented element that made threadless headsets possible in the first place. Like the one at the top is uses the conical shape to convert vertical force to constriction against the fork.

One thing I like about the concept is that it eliminated the need for a raised crown seat, simplifying fork design and construction.

if you wanted better materials shoulda got the 40 series or better? no?

Thanks for your help.

Actually the split is a pretty nice design. The lower cone (my name for this) shares the same key design feature of the upper centering cone, which is the critical patented element that made threadless headsets possible in the first place. Like the one at the top is uses the conical shape to convert vertical force to constriction against the fork.

One thing I like about the concept is that it eliminated the need for a raised crown seat, simplifying fork design and construction.

Thanks for explaining this,the split makes sense now. No use paying extra for a 40 series for my old beater bike if a 10 series will do.

There are Engineered polymers , and then there is just plastic ..

There are Engineered polymers , and then there is just plastic ..
All plastics are polymers. Just some are stronger and more durable than others. Of course metals have the same range of quality and strength from "pot metal' to ultra high strength ferrous, aluminum and titanium alloys.

Hi. I am assembling a road bike and have the same issue as the creator of this thread. Can I assume the need for installing the crown race with the hammer and pipe (or proper tool - as I have read on other threads, but not experienced), is no longer needed?

Hi. I am assembling a road bike and have the same issue as the creator of this thread. Can I assume the need for installing the crown race with the hammer and pipe (or proper tool - as I have read on other threads, but not experienced), is no longer needed?

If your headset came with a split crown race (really a centering cone), it's a slip-on fit, and the conical bottom of the bearing cinches it to the fork the same way the centering cone works at the top.

OTOH, if it isn't split, then it's a press on and you'll need a slide hammer (faced pipe).

Wow, that fast. I was hoping that was the answer - Thanks!

Wow, that fast. I was hoping that was the answer - Thanks!

Had you read the thread you'd have the answer even sooner, since it was answered already. But you're welcome anyway.