Classic and Vintage Bicycles: What's it Worth? Appraisals and Inquiries - Identify These Campagnolo Hubs? What Wheelset To Build With?

Guys, can you tell me what model and maybe what year of Campagnolo hubs these are? I am a noob at identifying components, sorry if this is screamingly obvious.

http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy282/jylmks/d151df87.jpg

Both 36 holes. Freehub body says "9 SPEED", the rear hub's QR end and the clip covering the oil port say "Campagnolo BREV INT". Front hub's QR has a teardrop hole in the lever end, the QR end says "Campagnolo BREV INT", black plastic ends of hub body say "Campagnolo Made In Italy", the clip over the oil port says nothing. Front hub is designed to have all spokes' heads on the outside of the flange. I don't have any reason to think the hubs were originally a set or that these are their original QRs. They have been laced but don't seem to have been ridden much, and spin smoothly.

And, can you advise me how you'd build them up, if you were me? I want to build a clincher wheelset for my project Vitus 992. I'm 185 lb, easy on gear, will ride unloaded for fun, no racing. I want light wheels, but I also want trouble-free wheels - its worth a few extra ounces to me.

I'd thought of 36 spokes rear, and 32 front. I could go looking for a 32 hole front hub, or just use this one. What pattern, how many crosses? And what rims? Mavic Open Pros seem like a pretty standard choice, would you use something else? What spokes?

Money is something of an object, but I don't need to be entirely wallet-driven.

Oh, yes, I've never built a wheel before - but I'm taking a class and will build a couple other wheels first. Still, maybe sticking to a simpler pattern would be best.

3x straight gauge spokes on open pros, you'll have them for a lifetime. Follow the lacing instructions on sheldon's site get them to a base tension (some number of threads showing) then work your away around tightening each spoke an even amount (half turn?) around and around. Nearly impossible to get them round otherwise.

Oh, and build the front first. Symmetry is a great teaching tool.

Okay, I looked at Velobase (duh) and I think the front hub may be a Record Titanium from mid 1990s to 1998. Both ends of the hub have black plastic caps.

* If * Velobase is correct then the axle is titanium, which I guess is easy to check.

The rear hub, I don't know. I am thinking Record because of the oil port, and 9 speed obviously. From the non-drive end w/ locknut, I'm guessing an earlier one, pre 1999? Can one tell from the freehub splines what era (1990s? 2000s?) it is from?

It looks just like the one in eBay auction 330692665442 which is described as "Record Titanium era late 1990s" but I have no idea if the eBay seller is correct.

So, 3 cross, brass nipples I assume, why straight spokes instead of butted?

Front hub is 1997-1998 Record. Rear hub appears to be same but has Chorus skewer.

So, 3 cross, brass nipples I assume, why straight spokes instead of butted?

Butted spokes are better and lighter, but they are about twice as expensive and "wind-up" as you bring them up to tension making it more tricky if this is your first wheel build.

3x and brass nipples is really your best bet. Open Pro is a good rim but realize it's still a lightweight 435g racing rim. If you are willing to sacrifice a few grams for more durability I'd look at the Mavic CXP-33. A bit heavier at 470g but a little more aero and sturdy.

I have these hubs laced to Open Pros and they have been to hell and back and have never had a problem....and mine are 32 holes. With 36 holes, you will be fine for a long long time. I would go with the Couche Dure option just because they look so cool :)

I worry about the CD wearing and eventually looking icky. How does it hold up?

It will wear down but it takes awhile. Once it does wear down, it looks machined, like any other rim. I took this photo of my Ciocc today, it has Ultegra hubs laced to Open Pros with the Couche Dure option and I have been riding them for about 5 years.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j103/jetsanchEz/sunnyday.jpg

I brake mostly with the front but you can see that it is more worn down on the rear. I think this is because the forward momentum means the rear brake moves across the rim more than the front brake does. The front is not worn down at all.

Stopped by the bike shop and rode home w/ a pair of Open Pros around my shoulders. Excited! Thanks, everyone!

That is a very pretty bike.