Bicycle Mechanics - Chain replacement

Well my chain is overdue for a replacement. At the LBS, the prices for a chain ranges from 10bucks to 40 bucks. The most expensive probably being ultegra or dura-ace. But is it worth it to go for the most expensive? what are the advantages other than little weight savings? I am planning to replace a chain on my Trek 520 that I use mostly commuting.

Well my chain is overdue for a replacement. At the LBS, the prices for a chain ranges from 10bucks to 40 bucks. The most expensive probably being ultegra or dura-ace. But is it worth it to go for the most expensive? what are the advantages other than little weight savings? I am planning to replace a chain on my Trek 520 that I use mostly commuting. Buy a mid level Sram.

PC-69 is the best buy if you ask me. I am happy with it

I second the Sram. Ive had too many shimanos break.

I agree with the PC-69 for both bikes.

PC-69 is the best buy if you ask me. I am happy with it

I concur 100%. Basically, SRAM chains work. The outstanding feature is the "powerlink", which comes with every new chain. The link permits the chain to be assembled or disassembled with your fingers. It makes removal for cleaning and maintenance a snap.

A PC-69 (mail order) sells for $18-$20.

... The outstanding feature is the "powerlink", which comes with every new chain. The link permits the chain to be assembled or disassembled with your fingers. It makes removal for cleaning and maintenance a snap.

A PC-69 (mail order) sells for $18-$20.
Wicked!! thanks a lot! ill get this chain! I had a hella hard time with removal and cleaning. and i am sure i didn't put it back on properly or in good condition.

That is definantly the best thing about the PC69, I use the powerlink all the time, it takes a little getting used to if you have never done it. Dont use tools to do it!!! its easier to remove when the plates are lubricated also. Anyways dont bother with the PC99 its just a waste of extra money, there is no other features except 20 grams of weight shavings.
http://www.supergo.com/profile.cfm?LPROD_ID=25472&srccode=1749
under 20 bucks,

I just replaced the chain on my commuter, the first time I've removed or installed a chain. The old one was a Shimano HG93 and I replaced it with a SRAM PC89. The Shimano lasted more than 5,000 miles (with lots of climbing) with weekly cleaning and lubricating. I chose the SRAM as a replacement after reading mostly favorable reviews on RBR (http://www.roadbikereview.com/Chains/SRAM/PRD_104009_2486crx.aspx) and because it was on sale at the local Performance Bike for US$23.

Removing the old chain was simple with a Park CT-3. The SRAM includes an assembly link that doesn't require any tools. I was suspicious at first, but getting it on was easy. I can't comment on durability, but there's no difference in shifting. It's an easy repair that will keep the rest of your drive train running well for many miles.

By the way, the Park chain checker tool CC-2 is also a good idea if you put heavy mileage on your bike. That 5,000 miles on the HG93 led to excessive stretching that may have damaged the cassette...unexpected shifts under heavy strain. The CC-2 was US$23 which is cheap if it saves replacing even one $40+ cassette.

Love the PC-69, especially the "power link" or whatever for doing maintenance on the bike.

I also use the 69 but recently found a wipperman for the same price. I prefer its attachment linkage but the regular price wouldn't convince me to switch permanently (although its strength is up there, I do break chains sometimes and wipperman is handling some decent abuse)

The powerlink is one of my fav features as well, but do keep in mind I have had one fly apart at a jump park(im still not a smooth jumper ;( ). So if you are a freerider/jumper, just fasten it together, otherwise the link is a godsend for maintenance. THe only comparable one is the Taya super chain. But those are extremely rare anymore. Their powerlink was permanently affixed to one end so it couldnt fly off. A bugger to pop apart without tools though, nothins free.
THe think with shimano chains is the joints where the ends are joined are prone to impropper attachment, thus failure. If done propperly they are fine, hence the other companie's snap link variants.

Most dhillers and freeriders I know run SRAM. Never having issues, it could have just been a loose link (heck I can't break one of my chains no matter what I do)

I know for a fact it was the chain slap dismantling the link. When i picked it up off the ground there was no powerlink in sight and the chain was new. But on the other hand that was one incident out of 4 yrs of race seasons on Sram, so I still love them.

Get an SRAM drive train, no chain slap...:D...(you might have one, just kidding, and yes I am bored)

Cool...I guess that is where wipperman might be better. It doesn't use a horizontal locking system, you lock it vertically..

I have a full SRAM drivetrain now :). Far more affordable than shimano and it performs flawless :). I think its funny how on mtbr.com the rating of the link is not as high as it should be (5/5) because these people cannot remove it. haha