Classic & Vintage - 1970? Raleigh Grand Prix (Pics)

Hello all,

Just acquired a Raleigh Grand Prix yesterday. I had been looking for a semi decent vintage road bike that gave me a good fit and this seems to fit the bill. I really just have some small questions about the bike and generally would like to know how you guys feel about it. From the research I have done it looks as though a lot of these parts are original. I have noticed the fenders on another Raleigh while lurking on these forums. I also am happy to see the wheel nuts and seatpost bolt have a nice R stamped in. I am very curious about the speedometer and the stamping underneath the bottom bracket which just appears to be an X. It looks as though the seat is original as well. Tell me what you think. Thanks.

Scott

http://i.imgur.com/qhmqr.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Sp0oE.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/bmXHC.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/7iyOP.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/NmVTk.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/VsBle.jpg

You have a beauty there - and (apart from the aftermarket shorties and speedo) it looks original to me. (Probably the the original grease too! Better service all of the bearings before riding it or you'll risk damage.)

It looks like a c. 1971-1972, with a Heron headbadge. (I think the '70 model still had the anniversary badge)

Kurt's Headbadge website has a wealth of information, including serial number detail (http://www.theheadbadge.com/)that may help you pin down the date more precisely.
There are a bunch of catalogs too - well worth exploring for the Raleigh fan!

BTW - Many of us think pretty highly of the GP - It is one of the better rides in high-ten. However - there are a couple of upgrades that you should consider
1) Make sure the plastic Simplex Prestige plastic derailleurs are not cracked. The front one especially, as it most frequently cracks and can give you a nasty if it hangs in your chain wheel.
2) Consider replacing the rims (along with the tires and brake shoes that are probably all hardenened). Alloy rims will make the ride noticeably better and improve braking.


PS - Always take photos from the Drive side - It makes identification easier.

You have a beauty there - and (apart from the aftermarket shorties and speedo) it looks original to me. (Probably the the original grease too! Better service all of the bearings before riding it or you'll risk damage.)

It looks like a c. 1971-1972, with a Heron headbadge. (I think the '70 model still had the anniversary badge)

Kurt's Headbadge website has a wealth of information, including serial number detail (http://www.theheadbadge.com/)that may help you pin down the date more precisely.
There are a bunch of catalogs too - well worth exploring for the Raleigh fan!

BTW - Many of us think pretty highly of the GP - It is one of the better rides in high-ten. However - there are a couple of upgrades that you should consider
1) Make sure the plastic Simplex Prestige plastic derailleurs are not cracked. The front one especially, as it most frequently cracks and can give you a nasty if it hangs in your chain wheel.
2) Consider replacing the rims (along with the tires and brake shoes that are probably all hardenened). Alloy rims will make the ride noticeably better and improve braking.


PS - Always take photos from the Drive side - It makes identification easier.

I am pretty sure the front derailleur is cracked. It has a separation in the middle and I was riding about 30 minutes ago, went to shift into the big gear up front It did and then I couldn't shift back. The derailleur is not moving at all while shifting. I am still new at bikes so working on them is a day to day process.

I am pretty sure the front derailleur is cracked. It has a separation in the middle and I was riding about 30 minutes ago, went to shift into the big gear up front It did and then I couldn't shift back. The derailleur is not moving at all while shifting. I am still new at bikes so working on them is a day to day process.

Probably it's best just to take it off for now and find yourself a replacement - preferably something with an integral cable stop, like a Suntour AR (or a Spirt if you don't mind a top-normal DR).
Again you ought to desist from riding the bike anyway, until the crank, wheel and head bearings have been serviced.
You'll need some bike-specific tools to do this, but they'll pay for themselves the second time you use them, considering bike shop costs are what they are.
You do have a cottered crank by the way: Refer to Sheldon Brown's site f (http://sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html)or info on servicing these.

Beauty of a bike, looks like a real comfy ride, and I'm happy to say the fork looks like it isn't bent!

Thanks, included is a picture of the front derailleur. I am guessing the separation in the middle should not exist.

Scott

http://i.imgur.com/X2jqM.jpg

I have a Mixte version I used for a city bike for a couple of years. I really like it, and am rebuilding it into a roadie for my son. They ride nicely, for an entry level frame, you can't beat them.

Marc

I am guessing the separation in the middle should not exist.




Affirmative on that!

It was the first X-tra-cycle
I have a Super Grand Prix all Sachs Malliard and Malliard Hubs the steel rims are going away soon

Beauty. If you ever decide to sell it, let me know.

Yeah- you want a parallelegram derailleur- with a rectangular cage that moves and not the "push-rod" type that came on the bike-

I'd have to agree with the very early 70s dating- I was selling them in a shop by the summer of 1974 and they'd changed that Brooks saddle for a vinyl one- unless of course someone else changed it since.

Scott,

You may want to visit this GP tread:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/376744-The-Ultimate-(hopefully)-Raleigh-Grand-Prix-thread

also check out this site:

http://www.kurtkaminer.com/bikecollection.html

I'd venture a guess, not much of a guess actiually, that the shortie fenders are Bluemels that were added by some previous owner. Nice GP though.

Gary