Electronics, Lighting, & Gadgets - Can I power this Led Flashlight w/ 12v or 14.4 v It uses one 26650 w/ 3 Cree xm-l ?

Can I power this Led Flashlight w/ 12v or 14.4 v It uses one 26650 w/ 3 Cree xm-l ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4000Lm-Lumens-3T6-CREE-XM-L-XML-T6-LED-Flashlight-Torch?item=200730724432&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7520290049384878520

http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/ubuygift/88007396-8.jpg
http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/ubuygift/88007396-19.jpg


This is a handy size, VERY bright...I'm buying another for $43.
I am powering a bank of flashing led's plus a bar of 4 Luxeon lights (no driver) with a pack of 12 1.2v NMIH cells.(14.4volts)

The light uses a 26650 battery and has 3 Cree XM-L leds....plenty of light...I am tempted to mod the flashlight with an insert to deliver my on-board 14.4 nimh or 12 v Sealed lead acid power to the innards of the handlebar mounted flashlight.

Question is:

Will it take that much voltage with out a driver / reducer?

Thanks

These are the leds I'm using as marker lights...they run on 12v.
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/6/3/3/4/5/8/webimg/534206408_o.jpg

According to the description listed, the maximum voltage is 4.2v.

Sorry, but there's no way a 3 XM-L flashlight will put out 4000 lumens. More realistically it will be 2000 lumens. On maximum, the run time isn't going to be all that great, even with the 26650. It looks like a nice light, though. There's a lot of info on budgetlightforum.com about cheap lights. The three bulb lights are pretty popular. You can probably find a relatively cheap, semi-reliable, budget light that will meet your needs. This one is rather large, with a 2.5" head.

Yeah I was thinking that if I got 1300 lumens from it I'd be happy ...It puts out a lot of light....I will be content to change out batts.

The Magic shine lights are about $75 w/ power pack...this one when off the bike is BY FAR the brightest light I own....I can see fine details that normal house light doesn't show.

I am suprised that the head doesn't heat up even when on high power for a while.

Sure. Use a dummy cell to make the electrical connection inside the flashlight and use a DC-DC converter to drop the voltage from the 12V supply...

Yeah I was thinking that if I got 1300 lumens from it I'd be happy ...It puts out a lot of light....I will be content to change out batts.I would think 1300 is an accurate guess.

If you allow much more than 4amps (@4.2V) to the light head - I think it will overheat and burn out. Using a higher voltage battery with many cells in series will give unpredictable results.

I guess i could look around the CP forums to find out what a 3 led torch will draw with the manufacturers recommended batteries. Then you could predict true brightness. But for bicycling - this is a bit of overkill.

Sure. Use a dummy cell to make the electrical connection inside the flashlight and use a DC-DC converter to drop the voltage from the 12V supply...

Yes, that would be one method. It probably need to be beefy enough to handle at least 4 to 5 amp load (I am guessing). The original product described it being 18w but I highly doubt that rating being true. I would think a single 26650 battery can handle a 1C load for a short duration before sagging therfore making a 4 amp converter may work.

Option 2: open the head of the flashlight. See if there is room for rewiring the Emitter and swapping the driver. Wire them in series and change the driver to a 11.1v driver. You will need to find a driver that has the mode you like and the appropriate output for the three LED in series. I suspect those led are just thermal pasted down to a heatsink and the driver is behind the heatsink. This might make it easier to mod it if so.

Yeah I was thinking that if I got 1300 lumens from it I'd be happy ...It puts out a lot of light....I will be content to change out batts.

The Magic shine lights are about $75 w/ power pack...this one when off the bike is BY FAR the brightest light I own....I can see fine details that normal house light doesn't show.

I am suprised that the head doesn't heat up even when on high power for a while.

I have been looking at that same light for quite a while. I mentioned it on the flashllight forums too. Like you said, most likely it is not going to be 4000 lums, but even if you only get half, you still up there.. I had read some reviews about the seller, they were so so. Also, on Ebay, they have the same light listed for different prices. Some of the prices are as high as $95 for the same light. I would love to see you get it and write a review. :D Because if it is hot, I am on it too.

She is fat, like UFT70 but for half the price..

There is another one call the DRY, and that is up there too in price. They are all 1 x 26650 3x cree lights. The one you listed is the cheapest.
It will mount, I saw where somebody mounted a DRY, a JM 07, and another light all on one bike.

Waiting for a review from you.. ;)

BTW, that seller also has "make offer" which I did a couple weeks ago. The seller went from $42.99 to $42.00 So, if you do get it make an offer!! ;)

I have been looking at that same light for quite a while. I mentioned it on the flashllight forums too. Like you said, most likely it is not going to be 4000 lums, but even if you only get half, you still up there.. I had read some reviews about the seller, they were so so. Also, on Ebay, they have the same light listed for different prices. Some of the prices are as high as $95 for the same light. I would love to see you get it and write a review. :D Because if it is hot, I am on it too.

She is fat, like UFT70 but for half the price..

There is another one call the DRY, and that is up there too in price. They are all 1 x 26650 3x cree lights. The one you listed is the cheapest.
It will mount, I saw where somebody mounted a DRY, a JM 07, and another light all on one bike.

Waiting for a review from you.. ;)

BTW, that seller also has "make offer" which I did a couple weeks ago. The seller went from $42.99 to $42.00 So, if you do get it make an offer!! ;)

It's interesting that you've been watching the same light.

I did buy it and will buy another today. the vendor is called 'Campingsurvivals' from Brooklyn NY. Arrived quickly but without bubble wrap. the box that held it was tossed into a tyvek envelop and mailed.

I thought it was weird that the same light (w/ cheapo battery and cheapo charger) varied in price from $52 to $95 to $133. That bothered me a little but for 'made in China' the hardware is working well.

I just bought 2 of these chargers
http://www.bugoutgearusa.com/i4charger.html
for $50 W free shipping.
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/blackforce_2202_7233
The Sysmax / Nitecore intellicharger i4 version 2 ...well reviewed and I have high expectations.

I will order 4 4seven 26650 batts from Amazon today and we'll see how it goes.

2 of the 3x Cree XM-L lights on the front of the bike...it should be all I need ...97% of my riding is on Minneapolis bike trails (some of the best in the US considering it's winter for 6 months)

The light fits nicely in the hand when it's off the bike and will even go into a jacket pocket...the 18650 lights that use 2-3 cells seem akward in that regard.

Haven't dropped it yet... I 'made offer' on Ebay for $37.99 and it was rejected (that was for the $42.99 version without the charger and battery.

I plan to run 2 of these in addition to my home made 4x Luxeon light (running on 12v) and I have high expectations....will need to be mindful of oncoming cyclists :)

$42.99 for this light w/ 3 Cree XM-L LED's in a reflector vs buying components (the Cree's on a star are about $10) and I decided to buy the lights instead of building from scratch.

One thing you can't really get from the illustrations is how nicely it fits in the hand. It does come with an adaptor sleeve to use 18650 batts.

I expect 4 26650 batteries will do for this season especially if I click down to medium power which I think triples the runtime..

I'm now looking for just the right 'Flashlight to Handlebar' holder...did a google search for that term and found SEARCHING THE IMAGE RESULTS INSTEAD OF THE WEB RESULTS to be very useful....I would click on an interesting picture of a mount and it would lead me to a webpage.

My summation would be for $43 you can't go wrong. 'Campingsurvivals' got it to me quickly and I think it compares well to lights costing 3-4x as much.

Hope that helps.

I'd like to see a mod that uses this head and an external battery pack.

Eddie

It's interesting that you've been watching the same light.

I did buy it and will buy another today. the vendor is called 'Campingsurvivals' from Brooklyn NY. Arrived quickly but without bubble wrap. the box that held it was tossed into a tyvek envelop and mailed.

I thought it was weird that the same light (w/ cheapo battery and cheapo charger) varied in price from $52 to $95 to $133. That bothered me a little but for 'made in China' the hardware is working well.

I just bought 2 of these chargers
http://www.bugoutgearusa.com/i4charger.html
for $50 W free shipping.
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/blackforce_2202_7233
The Sysmax / Nitecore intellicharger i4 version 2 ...well reviewed and I have high expectations.

I will order 4 4seven 26650 batts from Amazon today and we'll see how it goes.

2 of the 3x Cree XM-L lights on the front of the bike...it should be all I need ...97% of my riding is on Minneapolis bike trails (some of the best in the US considering it's winter for 6 months)

The light fits nicely in the hand when it's off the bike and will even go into a jacket pocket...the 18650 lights that use 2-3 cells seem akward in that regard.

Haven't dropped it yet... I 'made offer' on Ebay for $37.99 and it was rejected (that was for the $42.99 version without the charger and battery.

I plan to run 2 of these in addition to my home made 4x Luxeon light (running on 12v) and I have high expectations....will need to be mindful of oncoming cyclists :)

$42.99 for this light w/ 3 Cree XM-L LED's in a reflector vs buying components (the Cree's on a star are about $10) and I decided to buy the lights instead of building from scratch.

One thing you can't really get from the illustrations is how nicely it fits in the hand. It does come with an adaptor sleeve to use 18650 batts.

I expect 4 26650 batteries will do for this season especially if I click down to medium power which I think triples the runtime..

I'm now looking for just the right 'Flashlight to Handlebar' holder...did a google search for that term and found SEARCHING THE IMAGE RESULTS INSTEAD OF THE WEB RESULTS to be very useful....I would click on an interesting picture of a mount and it would lead me to a webpage.

My summation would be for $43 you can't go wrong. 'Campingsurvivals' got it to me quickly and I think it compares well to lights costing 3-4x as much.

Hope that helps.

I'd like to see a mod that uses this head and an external battery pack.

Eddie

Eddie, thanks for a SUPER REPORT/REVIEW. :beer:

Also, I think the sellers are all the same.. They are all in Brooklyn NY.. The one I was going to deal with was hi-tech. The "make offer" is always rejected, and they come back with 1 dollar off. Dam, this flashlight beenz done hit me. I got 3 flashlight on the way and thinking about ordering this one. Judging from the amount of light I am getting from two 18650 torches up front, if you put two of these 3x cree babies up front, that is going to be a "muther" of a light pattern..I seen this on BLF, and they have the badazz Dry along with another 26650 light, and an 18650 light. On the top two lights, they are using the two fish mount, I think they are using that same mount to mout the dry underneath..
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-prWFnhx3V1Q/Tx6GHvxzeaI/AAAAAAAACLM/gzV-CaENtXo/s576/IMG_20120124_111856.jpg

You really push me close to pulling the trigger on this light. I was leary, and I wrote them and asked about their return policy. They stated, if something is wrong, they will make it right.

Post up some pictures when you get them mounted.

BTW, I ordered some TF 26650s from DX. I already have a 26650 charger, but might get the one you got listed too.

Again, thanks for the super report/review... :thumb:

If you email 'Campingsurvivals' before your order you might ask them to toss a piece of new (or used) bubble wrap (or even yesterdays newspaper) into your package...Mine had no cushioning protection and could have wound up w/ broken glass as the lightweight white box it came in had dis-combobulated itself.
244197244198

In addition to the Cree's and Luxeon (homemade) lights I'm planning a 'light bar'
http://www.ebay.com/itm/220920715189?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

These 44 led panels cost about $12 each and I plan to mount 4 together in the front and 3 (red to the back / 2x amber to the side) all running on 12 / 14.4 volt.

In the front the top two panels will be white and the bottom two red / blue. Cheaply made but working so far. The light you see in the panels is the reflection of the Android led flash. I will wire it to use the included switcher's strobe function OR to be 'always on'. The dimensions of the resulting light bar will be 5 inches high / 14.5 inches wide and about 1 inch thick.

When finished it should be quite the conversation piece :)

If you email 'Campingsurvivals' before your order you might ask them to toss a piece of new (or used) bubble wrap (or even yesterdays newspaper) into your package...Mine had no cushioning protection and could have wound up w/ broken glass as the lightweight white box it came in had dis-combobulated itself.
244197244198

In addition to the Cree's and Luxeon (homemade) lights I'm planning a 'light bar'
http://www.ebay.com/itm/220920715189?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

These 44 led panels cost about $12 each and I plan to mount 4 together in the front and 3 (red to the back / 2x amber to the side) all running on 12 / 14.4 volt.

In the front the top two panels will be white and the bottom two red / blue. Cheaply made but working so far. The light you see in the panels is the reflection of the Android led flash. I will wire it to use the included switcher's strobe function OR to be 'always on'. The dimensions of the resulting light bar will be 5 inches high / 14.5 inches wide and about 1 inch thick.

When finished it should be quite the conversation piece :)

Well, I am going to tell you like somebody told me when I passed them with my lights. They said "you are not going to be hit"... :D.. Meaning, you are SEEN BIG TIME. I think it would be safe to say, that 95% of the bicyclist that get hit by cars, the reason is "I didn't see them".. With the way you and I go about lights, I don't think we have a problem... ;)

Your light bar is awesome, and will go well with your application. However, I ride road bikes, and to top that off, I THINK I am cool looking!! ;) With that said, I got to have lights that blend in with the bike and not to many obtrusions. On my rear, I have been using a Planet Bike SuperFlash Turbo, along with two $2.50 wonder rear lights off Ebay. The reason I call them "wonder rear lights" is because they rival my PBSF Turbo rear light for 1/10th the cost. I put these on the back of my helmet, and on the frame stays of my bike. Check out the helmet on the ground, it has one on the back, and on the bike is the PBSF Turbo.

http://www.cehoward.net/ke5-647x.jpg

If I get the light, I will be getting it here, but will tell them to make sure they pack the light.
I put in another offer for that light.. $41.00 ;)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4000lm-Lumen-3x-CREE-XML-XM-L-T6-LED-Flashlight-Torch-5-Mode-18650-26650-Black?item=170783151572&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7554133049496038277
Have you picked the mount for that light yet? IMO, I would go with this.. A two fish knock off..

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/universal-adjustable-bicycle-mount-for-flashlights-2cm-4cm-diameter-31871

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/quick-release-water-bottle-holder-clamp-for-bicycle-black-69273

I'm attracted to this clamp. $6.00 at Deal Extreme it's a 'quick release thumbscrew style clamp for a Bottle Bracket'

I would use 2 joined together for $12...I like it because it's similar to a photographers studio clamp called 'The super Clamp' I've used 2 paired 'Super Clamps' to hold the light but it's too big / heavy / bulky / overkill.

You can crank it nice and tight as opposed to begging the Velcro to grip.

The other bonus is that it could help me use the flash light 'Off-Bike' My previous favorite flashlight was my Makita 12 Volt light with an articulating head that used the 12 v NiMH battery pack from the drill kit.

It was so useful for mundane tasks like locating the usb port on the back of the computer in a dimly lit area...you could just stand the light up and aim it and then work with both hands.....I envision being able to use the Cree 26650 light in a similar fashion.

http://img.dxcdn.com/productimages/sku_69273_1.jpg
http://img.dxcdn.com/productimages/sku_69273_3.jpg
http://img.dxcdn.com/productimages/sku_69273_2.jpg

I'm also toying with the idea of buying a 14.4 Volt based Drill set and using the battery packs to power the bike's lights as well as the drill.

Go for it Eddie!! ;) That mount seems like just the ticket for your needs..

On the light again, found it for $37.75 and coming out of New York too. This was posted on the BLF forum, the sale ends in 2 days..

http://www.tmart.com/BeamTech-BT4000-CREE-XMT6-18W-2700LM-5-Mode-Flashlight-Black_p136641.html

I checked, and it is the same light. Also, from what you suggested, I will make sure I tell them to pack it securely. I made another offer on ebay for $41, most likely they will reject that, and most likely I will get this one. Can't think it on too long, after all, the sale is just for two more days! If I do ordered this one, I will have FOUR flashlights enroute to me all at one time..;)

Now, I thought I would be badazz busting two 26650 1x cree light us front, busting two of these 3x cree lights, they might just give me the highway just like they do for emergency vehicles.. :D I am loving this chit!! ;)

Look, I want to see beam shots and shots of that bad boy mounted, you hear?? :D :D

Is there a standard for manual settings on a camera for beam shot comparison???
somewhere I heard

6 seconds F/4 Iso 200

I guess whatever you do just keep in on manual and the same settings for each shot.

Is there a standard for manual settings on a camera for beam shot comparison???
somewhere I heard

6 seconds F/4 Iso 200

I guess whatever you do just keep in on manual and the same settings for each shot.


MTBR has a standard they use. Since they have a lots of beamshot photo, I think it would be benefial to use their settings.

F 4.0
Shutter 4 seconds
ISO 100
White balance daylight
Manual focus

Shots should include a control shot as reference to the existing ambient surrounding lights. What I notice is that many sample of beamshot (here and elsewhere, except at MTBR) are over exposed making their lights appear much brighter than what it should be. Evident of over expose shot will hint surrounding building being lit up and cloud also being brighter in appearance. The control shot helps in reavealing how much light were readily there and if exposure were set to high.

OP, not to rain on your flashlight parade, but if I did the math right, you've got $220 in this 2 flashlight, 2 charger, 4 cell, 4 clamp headlight system.

These 2 lights probably will run 1 hour on 4 cells on high, or perhaps 2 hours on 50% medium, at which point you'd have perhaps 1000-1500 lumens total.

For another $30-40 you could have a Gemini Olympia or Dinotte XML3 headlight, either of which will match the output of the 2 flashlights on medium, with more run-time and no interruption to swap cells mid-ride, in a smaller package, with a real 1 or 2 year warranty. Plus no fuss pulling batteries out, charging, replacing, repeat.

OP, not to rain on your flashlight parade, but if I did the math right, you've got $220 in this 2 flashlight, 2 charger, 4 cell, 4 clamp headlight system.

These 2 lights probably will run 1 hour on 4 cells on high, or perhaps 2 hours on 50% medium, at which point you'd have perhaps 1000-1500 lumens total.

For another $30-40 you could have a Gemini Olympia or Dinotte XML3 headlight, either of which will match the output of the 2 flashlights on medium, with more run-time and no interruption to swap cells mid-ride, in a smaller package, with a real 1 or 2 year warranty. Plus no fuss pulling batteries out, charging, replacing, repeat.

I gotta agree, those battery pack bike lights are the king of runtime. :thumb:

On the $220. If that is correct, IMO, didn't need to go that high. Four quality cells can be had for $40, one charger $15, mounts, about $25(if that much) and $86 for two lights. I think the OP is pushing around $180. I addition, and correct me if I am wrong, the OP had other duties for the flashlights which come into play too. Something that quality battery-pack lights you mentioned can't serve..

Also, and only speaking for myself, because I am running road bikes, and I try to keep them smooth looking like my sport motorcycles. Nothing hanging out!! :D. One other thing on the price, in the next couple days, those same flashlights, a pair (2) can be had for about $75. ;)

Yeah I was thinking that if I got 1300 lumens from it I'd be happy ...It puts out a lot of light....I will be content to change out batts.

The Magic shine lights are about $75 w/ power pack...this one when off the bike is BY FAR the brightest light I own....I can see fine details that normal house light doesn't show.

I am suprised that the head doesn't heat up even when on high power for a while.

I just pulled the trigger on one too..;) They have in on sale for $37.75 with free shipping.. ;)

http://www.tmart.com/BeamTech-BT4000-CREE-XMT6-18W-2700LM-5-Mode-Flashlight-Black_p136641.html

The sale will be over in 2 hours..

The SYSMAX NITECORE JETBEAM INTELLICHARGER i4 VERSION 2 arrived and it wildly exceeds expections:

Build quality
Price
Good English Directions !!!
$25 for the first one, buy two get free shipping on Both making #2 only $20.

From the quality of the cardboard and printing of the Box to the quality of the plastic and injection moulding of the plastic it is A grade quality.

One reviewer complained about the quality of the spring loaded contacts and they are wrong.

You'd never in any regard think that this is "made in China'

Detailed review to follow,

This is a definate buy.

Nicely suprised :)

Dam, you going to make me spring for one of those too... ;)

The SYSMAX NITECORE JETBEAM INTELLICHARGER i4 VERSION 2 arrived and it wildly exceeds expections:

Build quality
Price
Good English Directions !!!
$25 for the first one, buy two get free shipping on Both making #2 only $20.

From the quality of the cardboard and printing of the Box to the quality of the plastic and injection moulding of the plastic it is A grade quality.

One reviewer complained about the quality of the spring loaded contacts and they are wrong.

You'd never in any regard think that this is "made in China'

Detailed review to follow,

This is a definate buy.

Nicely suprised :)

We are rolling together..:beer:

I got the light and just ordered the charger here!! $25.00 Free shipping..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SYSMAX-Intellicharge-i4-JETBeam-Nitecore-Li-ion-NiMH-Battery-Charger-V-2-/120889646867?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c25959f13&autorefresh=true

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/SYSMAX-Intellicharge-i4-JETBeam-Nitecore-Li-ion-NiMH-Battery-Charger-V-2-/00/s/NjAwWDgwMA==/$(KGrHqZ,!p4E9eM!Gt0WBPegK,eD8!~~60_3.JPG

Got the light too, but, it must have rolled around in shipping, because something seems loose. It worked when I took it out the box and put in a Keygos 26650 battery. Then I slipped the adapter and put in a Hi Max 18650 battery.. Worked great. Came back 20 minutes later, and it wouldn't come on. Shook it, it still wouldn't come on. I am dealing with Tmart, and they got super customer service. I emailed them told them the problem, and they apologized and sent me a mailer to send it back for exchange. When I picked it back up 30 minutes later, it started working again. It did that on and off thing 3 or 4 times. IMO, that points to something being loose. Since it is a new light, I am not fishing for the loosenees.

It is a flooder, more than a beamer. It should be a perfect bicycle light. Also, it fits like a glove in the two fish knock off mounts..

I got it on sale here, for $37.75 with free shipping. Since then, it has went back up to $50

http://www.tmart.com/BeamTech-BT4000-CREE-XMT6-18W-2700LM-5-Mode-Flashlight-Black_p136641.html

http://cdn3.image-tmart.com/prodimgs/8/88007395/BeamTech-BT4000-CREE-XMT6-18W-2700LM-5-Mode-Flashlight-Gray_320x320.jpg?1323417557

MTBR has a standard they use. Since they have a lots of beamshot photo, I think it would be benefial to use their settings.

F 4.0
Shutter 4 seconds
ISO 100
White balance daylight
Manual focus

Shots should include a control shot as reference to the existing ambient surrounding lights. What I notice is that many sample of beamshot (here and elsewhere, except at MTBR) are over exposed making their lights appear much brighter than what it should be. Evident of over expose shot will hint surrounding building being lit up and cloud also being brighter in appearance. The control shot helps in reavealing how much light were readily there and if exposure were set to high.

Please correct me if I missed something - I believe that is / was the standard for 'regular' lighting systems. With the introduction of newer, higher output systems I think a second reference was adopted for 'high powered' bike lights. Last time I checked (and it may have changed), it was:F 4.0
Shutter speed 1 second
ISO 100
White balance daylight
Manual focus

About 1/4 the exposure time and an indication that the newer lights can be ridiculously bright compared to ten years back.

Please correct me if I missed something - I believe that is / was the standard for 'regular' lighting systems. With the introduction of newer, higher output systems I think a second reference was adopted for 'high powered' bike lights. Last time I checked (and it may have changed), it was:F 4.0
Shutter speed 1 second
ISO 100
White balance daylight
Manual focus

About 1/4 the exposure time and an indication that the newer lights can be ridiculously bright compared to ten years back.

That was also my impression early on as the light shootouts thread got started at MTBR. I thought they were going to decrease the exposure time. However when the backyard beamsot ( http://reviews.mtbr.com/2012-bike-lights-shootout-backyard-beam-pattern-photos) and the trail beam shot ( http://reviews.mtbr.com/2012-bike-lights-shootout-trail-beam-pattern-photos) was posted, I noticed those shots were listed as 4 seconds of exposure time.

Got my second '4000 Lumen' light. and I did notice that neither worked when I took them out of the package....I had to unscrew them, jiggle the spring inside and generally torque them around a bit....and they've been working fine since.....if yours starts working properly you may just want to keep it ???

Also did first full charge of 4sevens 26650 Batteries. Note that the 4 bay charger will charge 2 of those at a time.

Again, the fit and finish and quality of materials and assembly is Grade A...even the smooth running of the negative contact that is spring loaded and runs in a channel...it's travels smoothly and I'm not worried about it crapping out.
I've bought some 'Crap from China' and this is not 'Crap from China' :)

there are 3 flashing leds for each of the 4 independent charging channels and they will give you a 1-3 level of charge indication and glow steady when done.

There are 4 independent channels but there seems to be TWO INDEPENDENT CHARGE CHANNELS....

SLOT 1 AND 3 AND SLOT 2 AND 4 ARE 'LINKED'

I charged 4 batteries in 2 chargers on one charger I placed the batteries in slots 1 and 3 (slots 2 and 4 would have given the same result) and these cells charged SLOWER THAN THE CELLS IN THE SECOND CHARGER WHICH WERE PLACED IN SLOTS 1 AND 4.

THE CELLS IN SLOTS 1 AND 4 WERE DONE CHARGING SIGNIFICANTLY FASTER THAN THE CELLS IN THE FIRST CHARGER (1/3 OR 2/4)

note you can't place the 26650 cells in slot 2 AND slot 3 because of the diameter of the cells.

So .....you have 4 independent charging channels AND 2 'CHARGING CHANNELS'

For a slower charge use 1/3 or 2/4

For a faster charge use slots 1 and 4

For $25 W free shipping this charger IS A STEAL.

Got my second '4000 Lumen' light. and I did notice that neither worked when I took them out of the package....I had to unscrew them, jiggle the spring inside and generally torque them around a bit....and they've been working fine since.....if yours starts working properly you may just want to keep it ???

Also did first full charge of 4sevens 26650 Batteries. Note that the 4 bay charger will charge 2 of those at a time.

Again, the fit and finish and quality of materials and assembly is Grade A...even the smooth running of the negative contact that is spring loaded and runs in a channel...it's travels smoothly and I'm not worried about it crapping out.
I've bought some 'Crap from China' and this is not 'Crap from China' :)

there are 3 flashing leds for each of the 4 independent charging channels and they will give you a 1-3 level of charge indication and glow steady when done.

There are 4 independent channels but there seems to be TWO INDEPENDENT CHARGE CHANNELS....

SLOT 1 AND 3 AND SLOT 2 AND 4 ARE 'LINKED'

I charged 4 batteries in 2 chargers on one charger I placed the batteries in slots 1 and 3 (slots 2 and 4 would have given the same result) and these cells charged SLOWER THAN THE CELLS IN THE SECOND CHARGER WHICH WERE PLACED IN SLOTS 1 AND 4.

THE CELLS IN SLOTS 1 AND 4 WERE DONE CHARGING SIGNIFICANTLY FASTER THAN THE CELLS IN THE FIRST CHARGER (1/3 OR 2/4)

note you can't place the 26650 cells in slot 2 AND slot 3 because of the diameter of the cells.

So .....you have 4 independent charging channels AND 2 'CHARGING CHANNELS'

For a slower charge use 1/3 or 2/4

For a faster charge use slots 1 and 4

For $25 W free shipping this charger IS A STEAL.

First, on the 4000 lum 3 cree light, I figured it was something loose. But, I really am a newbie, and not too sharp on taking these things apart. When I opened the package the light was wrap with one layer of bubblewrap, but the top of the box was half open. That means the light was bouncing around in transit. Most likely what caused the looseness. Anyway, they sent me a mailer and I sent it back the next day. I should have the replacemnt in a week. Also, with instructions to pack it better.

On the charger, ha, I went with your praise along with reading some threads on the flashlight forums. I made sure I got the latest version, then I searched for the best price. Ebay had it for $27.99 with best offer and free shipping. My first two offers were declined, but the seller took my offer of $25.. From what you are posting, I am will be a happy camper with this too.

I noticed you talked about camera settings on beam shots. Well, I am below newbie on camera. :D I have been using a Nikon D5100 set on A, and using a tripod. The camera selects the shutter and ISO setttings.. I did noticed the shutter speeds were something like 2 to 3 seconds.. I have been getting some acceptable shots. Anyway, I am novice there too, but it is fun. When I get my light back, going to take some beam shots. When it was working. I took it out front along with one of my socalled 1300 lum 18650 lights. Gotta tell you, the 1300 lum light had a stronger center beam. Still I think I am going to like it..

Post of some pics of your beam shots with the 4000. Not only that, I want to see your mounting setup too. With two of them boys up front, that will be a mean sight!! :D

You also want to avoid looking directly into these light....you will see 3 blue dots for a long time.

You say it's a perfect fit into the double fish clone...that's good to hear. I ordered 2 of those $6 screw down clamps and they are at 'prepship' at Dealextreme.

There's 2 flat spots on the battery barrel and I thought of tapping 1/4 20 threaded hole there....that would open it up to photo tripod mounting devices nicely...and not compromise it's utility as a pocketable flashlight.

Do you agree it's a good choice over the 'Trustfire 18650 style' lights with the longer handles?

I droped this light into my jeans front pocket last night....don't see doing that with the 18650 style lights.

Do post your evaluation of your charger...this is a sleeper that I think more people should know about...haven't compared it to my Maha 9000 for Nimh yet.

You also want to avoid looking directly into these light....you will see 3 blue dots for a long time.

Even though I am a newbie, I know the above is a no-no. I don't even dare look directly at any flashlight, let alone these powerful torches. ;)



You say it's a perfect fit into the double fish clone...that's good to hear. I ordered 2 of those $6 screw down clamps and they are at 'prepship' at Dealextreme.

There's 2 flat spots on the battery barrel and I thought of tapping 1/4 20 threaded hole there....that would open it up to photo tripod mounting devices nicely...and not compromise it's utility as a pocketable flashlight.

Do you agree it's a good choice over the 'Trustfire 18650 style' lights with the longer handles?

I droped this light into my jeans front pocket last night....don't see doing that with the 18650 style lights.

Do post your evaluation of your charger...this is a sleeper that I think more people should know about...haven't compared it to my Maha 9000 for Nimh yet.

Yup, it fits snug and secure in the two-fish clone.

I got one of those cheap tripods and I was thinking about mounting the light on that, with the one of those two fish mounts. Going to see how that works out.

I don't go for the longer lights with the longer handles. I don't think they would work out well for bicycles. All my lights are of this length. I got the Keygos M10, a 26650 single cell, and JMO5 Clone, another single cell 26650 coming.

On the charger, I know that is going to be a winner. For what it does at that price, it can't miss. I should have that in about 5 days.

:beer:

Well, these two babies came today in the mail. They are Keygos M10, 26650 powered and supposed to be 1600 lums! :D
Going to see how they look in the dark, I already know they will hook up nicely with the two fish like mounts.. My Nikon died on me after I took this shot. And I can't find the dam charger!! :(

http://www.cehoward.net/M1096.jpg

So, it will be a couple days before I get any beam shots. Also, when my 3x Beamtech comes back, I am quite sure one of these will out shine it..IMO, that one 26650 can drive those 3x crees like it needs to be. Just my opinion, and I could be wrong.. ;)

http://photoextremist.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/LED-Lenser-X21-Tripod-Gorillapod.jpg
http://gizwizbiz.squarespace.com/storage/GorillaTorch.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1252878791899
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-3275490461959_2205_751325268
http://flipvideoaccessories.com/wp-content/uploads/products_img/gorillapod.jpg
http://c745.r45.cf2.rackcdn.com/img/2009/gerber_steady.jpg

once I find a way to provide a 1/4-20 threaded mounting area on the light I can do something like this to use it off bike.



Gorilla Torch, made by Joby, the folks who brought you the Gorilla Pod. (In case you don’t remember, the Gorilla Pod is a flexible mini tripod. You can bend the legs in any direction, like around poles, benches, branches, etc. It's a quick and easy way to hold your point ‘n shoot camera in place for self-portraits when no one's around. Gorilla Torch is similar, expect a flashlight replaces your camera. The Torch, however does not unscrew, or come off. So now you can wrap this flashlight (or: “torch”) around anything to hold it in place with the beam facing the way you want it. (This is assuming you don’t have a Giz Wiz LED baseball cap!) The “Torch” is a super-bright LED light with a built in dimmer. Joby says it’s weatherproof and shockproof. The adjustable intensity light can be turned up full to 65 lumens, which is really bright! The average battery life is 20-80 hours depending on how bright a light you use. Another neat feature are the magnetic footpads. That means you can hook it on to a refrigerator or car door. And if you drop something metallic you can use one of the feet to retrieve it! It’s powered by 3 AA batteries, which are included. $29.99. It will be available mid-September 2009.

I mounted a Keygos M10 torch with a two fish type mount on a cheapo tripod I had hanging around. It works..

http://www.cehoward.net/M10-03.jpg

I mounted a Keygos M10 torch with a two fish type mount on a cheapo tripod I had hanging around. It works..

http://www.cehoward.net/M10-03.jpg

That light is going to be useful :0

I started thread on 26650 4x holders..

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/812619-26650-Battery-holder...I-m-giving-up-on-finding-one-Help

Got any ideas?

Eddie

Eddie, on my second light it worked the first night. The second day, it stopped working. But before I send this one back, I came back and re-read this thread and the part where you went in an jingled with the springs and it started working again. Well, it did the same for me. I took it apart, wiped the threads, move the spring around a little, and screwed it back together nice and tight. It started working again. From reading what you have stated, it will keep on working. I am not looking for the moon on this light, after all, I only paid $37.75 for it. I like the way it works. It has a big spill and lets me see a broad area. I also coupled it with a thrower.. That makes it even better.. :)

Eddie, on my second light it worked the first night. The second day, it stopped working. But before I send this one back, I came back and re-read this thread and the part where you went in an jingled with the springs and it started working again. Well, it did the same for me. I took it apart, wiped the threads, move the spring around a little, and screwed it back together nice and tight. It started working again. From reading what you have stated, it will keep on working. I am not looking for the moon on this light, after all, I only paid $37.75 for it. I like the way it works. It has a big spill and lets me see a broad area. I also coupled it with a thrower.. That makes it even better.. :)
Just used the 3x Cree XM-L 26650 for the first time as a work light doing some quick roof repair...it really needs a tripod of some kind and at the very least something to keep it from rolling around.

Nice a bright....it seems to ??? up the resolution in what you can see at a distance. I have no idea at what the run time on one 26650 will turn out to bee .....expect a bike ride this week w/ both the 3x lights.

Just used the 3x Cree XM-L 26650 for the first time as a work light doing some quick roof repair...it really needs a tripod of some kind and at the very least something to keep it from rolling around.

Nice a bright....it seems to ??? up the resolution in what you can see at a distance. I have no idea at what the run time on one 26650 will turn out to bee .....expect a bike ride this week w/ both the 3x lights.

Last night I messed around with the spring that one near the pill. It seems when it is in a certain position the light works. Anyway, the light worked last night. I was overjoyed. I switched back and forth with 26650 and 18650 cells everything worked. Nice and bright inside the house. Come this morning around 5am, it is raining. No problem, I eased out beater #1, put a two fish type mount on it, and put on the 3x cree light. Flick it a couple times, it works. Geared up with rainjacket, and helmet.

I did about 8 miles in the dark before I reached the train, however, the light stopped working right as I pulled into the station. I get on the train, take the light apart, still no work. I change batteries, same thing no work again. Dam, I am pissed at this on and off crap. Anyway, I have a bright 18650 light on my helmet which was more than enough to carry on my commute in the dark. Finally when I get to work, and get settled, I pull out the light. .Guess what? It now works again!! WTF!!!! It is got one more time to do this to me, and back it goes. I really like this light too. But, I don't want that on and off stuff when I am out riding in the dark.

Also, I am going to take a picture of that spring I think we are talking about. Maybe you can show me where it goes and how. I am really interested in seeing how your lights work out too..

That was also my impression early on as the light shootouts thread got started at MTBR. I thought they were going to decrease the exposure time. However when the backyard beamsot (http://reviews.mtbr.com/2012-bike-lights-shootout-backyard-beam-pattern-photos) and the trail beam shot (http://reviews.mtbr.com/2012-bike-lights-shootout-trail-beam-pattern-photos) was posted, I noticed those shots were listed as 4 seconds of exposure time.

I checked your link back and you're absolutely right of course! I'm a little disappointed as there was talk about updating the standards some five years ago.

I know some people are thrilled with their lights and thats probably more of an indication to how well our eyes can adapt to low light conditions than to the actual light output from any of the best lights being reviewed. An exposure of F4 at 4 seconds at ISO 100 is actually 32x as long as is needed to take a photograph in deep shade or at sunset (F4, ISO 100, 1/100 second), and 150x as long as required to take a photograph in bright sunlight (F16, ISO 100, 1/100 second). So any photographs depicting backyards lit up like daylight are more than a little exaggerated.

But I'd be interested in some feedback from some users: When you ride under streetlights do the streetlights still cast shadows? Or is your headlight putting more light on the ground than the streetlight and completely killing all shadows from any and all other light sources including cars and overhead lighting?

The only light I've ever personally seen that literally turned night into day over a large area was a 5ft, 5,000watt tungston TV floodlight being used to shoot a scene in the street. Kinda made automobile headlights seem insignificant.

I checked your link back and you're absolutely right of course! I'm a little disappointed as there was talk about updating the standards some five years ago.

I know some people are thrilled with their lights and thats probably more of an indication to how well our eyes can adapt to low light conditions than to the actual light output from any of the best lights being reviewed. An exposure of F4 at 4 seconds at ISO 100 is actually 32x as long as is needed to take a photograph in deep shade or at sunset (F4, ISO 100, 1/100 second), so any photographs depicting backyards lit up like daylight are more than a little exagerated.

But I'd be interested in some feedback from some users: When you ride under streetlights do the streetlights still cast shadows? Or is your headlight putting more light on the ground than the streetlight and completely killing all shadows from any and all other light sorces including cars and overhead lighting?

Ha, to be on the safe side, I copied, yours and Colleen's camera settings.. ;) Being such a noob with a dslr, anything is better than what I have been doing.. ;)

I checked your link back and you're absolutely right of course! I'm a little disappointed as there was talk about updating the standards some five years ago.

I know some people are thrilled with their lights and thats probably more of an indication to how well our eyes can adapt to low light conditions than to the actual light output from any of the best lights being reviewed. An exposure of F4 at 4 seconds at ISO 100 is actually 32x as long as is needed to take a photograph in deep shade or at sunset (F4, ISO 100, 1/100 second), and 150x as long as required to take a photograph in bright sunlight (F16, ISO 100, 1/100 second). So any photographs depicting backyards lit up like daylight are more than a little exagerated.

But I'd be interested in some feedback from some users: When you ride under streetlights do the streetlights still cast shadows? Or is your headlight putting more light on the ground than the streetlight and completely killing all shadows from any and all other light sorces including cars and overhead lighting?

The only light I've ever personally seen that literally turned night into day over a large area was a 5ft, 5,000watt tungston TV floodlight being used to shoot a scene in the street. Kinda made automobile headlights seem insignificant.

Here is the tricky part. Older light like the MJ808 P7 running 450 to 500 OTF lumens looks normal with F4, 4sec, iso100. What we see in life with ur own eyes is about what we see as on a digital picture. Higher lumens like the Gemini Olympia rated at 1700 OTF lumens will look wash out using the same setting. I tried to used less shutter speed until a picture using a high powered light on digital looks like what I saw with my eyes, but under that same setting, the digital picture makes a 300 to 800 lumens appears darker than what we see.

What is happening is that our eyes and pupil is constricting with the higher lumens light while the camera is set as absolute. The camera is recording more of the true overall brightness of a high power light and producing a washout effect on digital picture. In the meantime, our eyes is being constricted and we perceive less overall lumens while the camera was not tricked.

I think there should be at least two different camera setting to be use as standard. Each setting should correlate to the amount our eyes adjust to the brightness of the light. Problems is finding that spot since it also differs from one individual to another.

Here is the tricky part. Older light like the MJ808 P7 running 450 to 500 OTF lumens looks normal with F4, 4sec, iso100. What we see in life with ur own eyes is about what we see as on a digital picture. Higher lumens like the Gemini Olympia rated at 1700 OTF lumens will look wash out using the same setting. I tried to used less shutter speed until a picture using a high powered light on digital looks like what I saw with my eyes, but under that same setting, the digital picture makes a 300 to 800 lumens appears darker than what we see.

What is happening is that our eyes and pupil is constricting with the higher lumens light while the camera is set as absolute. The camera is recording more of the true overall brightness of a high power light and producing a washout effect on digital picture. In the meantime, our eyes is being constricted and we perceive less overall lumens while the camera was not tricked.

I think there should be at least two different camera setting to be use as standard. Each setting should correlate to the amount our eyes adjust to the brightness of the light. Problems is finding that spot since it also differs from one individual to another. Hi Colleen! Really nice to run into yet another camera fan here on the forums, particularly another one interested in lighting! Noted your post regarding your homemade lumen measuring device and have to say I'm impressed! Great inginuity!

I agree that a camera has a hard time depicting what our eyes see, but personally feel it probably has more to do with it measuring dynamic range differently. A camera uses a linear scale and has a narrower dynamic range than our eyes which use a logarithmic system over a broader range.

The challenge is really trying to communicate how effective and usefull any one light really is, and this thread should get pretty interesting between your posts and my friend cehowardGS' contributions! If we all use identical settings and similar targets (I'm thinking street environment shots with STOP signs, overhead lighting, automobile headlights etc) we should be able to come up with some interesting info a little different from what is being published by MTBR which has an off road focus.

My own challenge has been coming up with an acceptable beam spread. I'm currently running 15/45 degree eliptical beams and the wide spread results in the light output being distributed over a larger area. Net result was that I needed to double up the lights to achieve the same intensity as a 20degree spot would give, so needed more power. But the result is nice and not surprisingly, has about the same output and power requirements as the JW Speaker SAE approved LED headlights for automobiles. OK - they are a bit smaller, but still bigger than most bicycle lights. What I like myself besides tge light output is that they're completely waterproof and will last forever.

Ha, to be on the safe side, I copied, yours and Colleen's camera settings.. ;) Being such a noob with a dslr, anything is better than what I have been doing.. ;)
How are things? I'm thinking that if you pick up photography as fast as you picked up motorcycle racing you'll be ahead of me in no time! :lol:
Am currently working on a wiring harness to feed the latest light array for the mtb. Probably looking at about about 80 watts and 6,000 effective lumens split between a high/low beam combination. Just trying to keep up to you! :innocent: :beer:

Last night I messed around with the spring that one near the pill. It seems when it is in a certain position the light works. Anyway, the light worked last night. I was overjoyed. I switched back and forth with 26650 and 18650 cells everything worked. Nice and bright inside the house. Come this morning around 5am, it is raining. No problem, I eased out beater #1, put a two fish type mount on it, and put on the 3x cree light. Flick it a couple times, it works. Geared up with rainjacket, and helmet.

I did about 8 miles in the dark before I reached the train, however, the light stopped working right as I pulled into the station. I get on the train, take the light apart, still no work. I change batteries, same thing no work again. Dam, I am pissed at this on and off crap. Anyway, I have a bright 18650 light on my helmet which was more than enough to carry on my commute in the dark. Finally when I get to work, and get settled, I pull out the light. .Guess what? It now works again!! WTF!!!! It is got one more time to do this to me, and back it goes. I really like this light too. But, I don't want that on and off stuff when I am out riding in the dark.

Also, I am going to take a picture of that spring I think we are talking about. Maybe you can show me where it goes and how. I am really interested in seeing how your lights work out too..

Just bought a chinese washing maching..Haier apartment sized from Walmart.
The lack of documentation is shocking to an American...

There is an un documented process with these lights ....there is a "20 second issue"...if you click through the modes,
High, Med, low, flash, sos. the chip is still counting the 20 seconds if you:

Put the light down and turn it off,

and then

Pick it up and turn it on within 20 secs.

it will come on but at the NEXT SETTING......if you were on high it will turn on at medium and so on.

I think sometimes YOU NEED TO RE BOOT THE BRAIN OF THE FLASHLIGHT...

I'm thinking remove the tailcap and let it be un powered for an interval (20 seconds????) and then reassemble.

so.....I don't think it's the speific brand or the build of the specific light but the Brain / chip may need 'rebooting'

Somebody in China knows (the designer / manufacturer) ....it's just that his English isn't good and he can't get to this forum to explain.

ANY CHINESE GUYS WHO KNOW WHAT'S UP WITH THESE LIGHTS?

Please speak up.

So...I think the grounding of the spring surrounding the head can be sensitive

Plus

"Re-setting / Re-Booting" the brain may be touchy and that's independent of your specific copy of the light or your specific supplier.

So far so good on mine.

Hi Colleen! Really nice to run into yet another camera fan here on the forums, particularly another one interested in lighting! Noted your post regarding your homemade lumen measuring device and have to say I'm impressed! Great inginuity!

Thank you, but my pet poodle was not impress with my Home made Integrating Sphere. I purchase the 14 inch Jolly Ball from Amazon. I was not sure if it will work or not, but I figured I can give it to my dog if it won't since the Jolly Ball was a toy for dogs anyway.

When I first open the box, my poodle was all joyful and started rolling and pushing it around with his nose. After some visual examination, I made a decision the Jolly Ball will work as a sphere. I took it away from my poodle and you should have seen the expression on his face when I started cutting it in half to gain access to the inside of the ball. Needless to say, he was not too happy about that. Ha ha.

Now I have to order another Jolly Ball to replace the one I "borrow" from him. The things I do for the love of my pet.......

So...I think the grounding of the spring surrounding the head can be sensitive

Plus

"Re-setting / Re-Booting" the brain may be touchy and that's independent of your specific copy of the light or your specific supplier.

So far so good on mine.

Is that spring surrounding the head, supposed to be attached/connected or just loose? Mine is loose.

I am waiting for your ride report. I rode with mine this morning, and she cut off right at the end of the first leg of my commute. At work, it came back on..
On the way back home, not dark out, so I am on blinky. However, when I hit a bump, it changed modes on its own.. I dunno!! :(

Is that spring surrounding the head, supposed to be attached/connected or just loose? Mine is loose.

I am waiting for your ride report. I rode with mine this morning, and she cut off right at the end of the first leg of my commute. At work, it came back on..
On the way back home, not dark out, so I am on blinky. However, when I hit a bump, it changed modes on its own.. I dunno!! :(
Mine's been working flawlessly, but upon reading your post I took it apart...my large outer spring surrounding the 'drop-in' has a nice snug fit on it's inner/smaller end.

After reassembly it was working intermittently.

I futzed with it and it's fine now.

OBSERVATION:

This may be an area of 'Hand-Fitting'....where the tension and actual shape of that spring needs...final fine tuning by the owner....kind of like Gunsmithing.

I own several guns which have required 'Fluff & Buff' procedures and a 'Break in period' where the final fitting of parts is perfected.

CONCLUSION:

You may have the same issue with any of these lights but ultimately you should be able to tweak it so it works 100% of the time...I will not be happy if performance is flaky and I do not think I will have to put up with that.

Futz with it untill it's 100%

Mine's been working flawlessly, but upon reading your post I took it apart...my large outer spring surrounding the 'drop-in' has a nice snug fit on it's inner/smaller end.

After reassembly it was working intermittently.

I futzed with it and it's fine now.

OBSERVATION:

This may be an area of 'Hand-Fitting'....where the tension and actual shape of that spring needs...final fine tuning by the owner....kind of like Gunsmithing.

I own several guns which have required 'Fluff & Buff' procedures and a 'Break in period' where the final fitting of parts is perfected.

CONCLUSION:

You may have the same issue with any of these lights but ultimately you should be able to tweak it so it works 100% of the time...I will not be happy if performance is flaky and I do not think I will have to put up with that.

Futz with it untill it's 100%

You are RIGHT ON THE MONEY!! :thumb:

To make a long story short, I was on the verge of sending this back. In fact, the seller has already sent me a Return Label to return it for a refund. However, before I sent it back, I took some DETAILED pictures of the light and posted in on flashlight forum. The feedback I got was great. Just what you have suggested, seemed to be the problem. However, I didn't catch on until one of the forum members directed me to a thread where a user had the light disassembled, and pointed to the same spring. My spring was LOOSE. That was the cause of the on and off, and the changing of modes when I hit a bump.

Here are the before and after pictures..

Before, when it was not working and changing modes on its own.. You see that loose spring, that was just setting around the pill!
http://www.cehoward.net/beam35.jpg

http://www.cehoward.net/beam36.jpg


Now, I opened up the light and took the spring, and squeezed it so it would fit tight around the pill, no movement. In fact, I could pick the front assembly of the light up by the spring.

Like this (after)
http://www.cehoward.net/beam48.jpg

Here I am picking the unit up by the spring..

http://www.cehoward.net/beam50.jpg

Now, the lights works. I took the light in my hand and shook it hard, it work. The other day, it was changing modes when I rolled over a bump or the street was rough. Going to do that test tonight.

If that passes, I will not be sending this light back.. ;)

Good, it sounds like you'll get it to 100%.

My light project has jelled considerably...it's 2:45 am and I'm headed back to the garage for a final tweak of the design.

Bought 6 DPDT switches and some aluminum today....It's good I'm taking my time...the fine tuning of an inch here and an inch there is going to make a difference....still waiting on my DX light clamps.

I will document this w/ Well lit DSLR PIX During assembly and use.

Gorilla taped 4 26650 cells in series to test output and one of the cells ????? triggered it's safety circuit???? don't know...I'm going to make a holder from off the shelf C cell holders.


More later.

Good, it sounds like you'll get it to 100%.

My light project has jelled considerably...it's 2:45 am and I'm headed back to the garage for a final tweak of the design.

Bought 6 DPDT switches and some aluminum today....It's good I'm taking my time...the fine tuning of an inch here and an inch there is going to make a difference....still waiting on my DX light clamps.

I will document this w/ Well lit DSLR PIX During assembly and use.

Gorilla taped 4 26650 cells in series to test output and one of the cells ????? triggered it's safety circuit???? don't know...I'm going to make a holder from off the shelf C cell holders.


More later.


How is it working out???

The light is working great now. It is a flooder too. I am running it with my Keygos M10 which has a good throw. Together those two are killers in the dark.


http://www.cehoward.net/beam17.jpg

Your mounting looks convenient and functional.

The big news is the Cardboard prototype is done...the finished Light Panel / control box will look 90 some percent like this.

I have Aluminum Diamond Plate sufficient to build it but may want to buy something a little nicer....like dull aluminum.

The top area will feature a lid that opens into a dry compartment holding a 4x 26650 battery holder and 3 of the little controller boxes that came with the flashing LED light panels.

That dry box will be a cube of about 5-6 inches.
On the front it will attach to a plate of Aluminum 5" x 14.5" and the top panel of the box will attach to a larger plate that will be bolted to the handle bars on one end and have an area cut out to be the door to the dry compartment.

On the bottom the box is supported by a pipe attached to the center of the bottom of the box and clamped to the fork tube on the other end. If you look closely you can see that I adapted a seat tube and joined it to a bar clamp. It will be plenty sturdy.

I just need to make it now...Design and assessing the needs are done.

I will have 3 panels in the rear (2.5 x 7.25 " each) red to the rear and amber on either side. In front the top 2 bars will be white (quite bright) and a red and blue underneath.

I will be able to choose always on or one of the 3 strobing / flashing patterns built into the electronic controller. The strobing gets your attention. The other two are 'Wig/Wag' patterns that alternate the panels.

There will definately be a YouTube Vid :)

This is 'Over the Top' after much fiddling I now know how much 'Over the top' and it's reasonable...I anticipate abundant conversations on the bike trails.

I'll have to document it here: http://minneapolisbikelights.wordpress.com/
It's a wordpress blog I've been using to collect info regarding the Legalities etc...I can just refer people there.

Still waiting on my DXExtreme order of the 2 light clamps....waiting a month for something from China isn't working for me :)

More Pix to follow.

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Yup, this is youtube action all the way. Looks dam exciting and functional. :thumb: One thing for sure, when you come down the road, they (everybody) is going to know you are there !! That's a goody!!! :)

Waiting on the rest!! ;)

Your mounting looks convenient and functional.

Still waiting on my DXExtreme order of the 2 light clamps....waiting a month for something from China isn't working for me :)

More Pix to follow.



Update on the two fish type mount and the BeamTech 4000.

For the last two days, I have been riding with the BeamTech 4000 and the Keygos M10. The Keygos M10 is a 26650 light too, however, it is lighter. The Beamtech 4000, on short rides stays still. However, as I get into the ride, because of the weight of the BeamTech, the whole mount tilts forward. I had to keep pulling it back up. Whereas, on the other side, the Keygos stayed still. I can only attibute this to the big head, on the BeamTech. Again, the mount wholes the light securely, the light doesn't move around in the mount. The connection of the mount and the handlebar is where the weight of the Beamtech makes it slip. Maybe there is a fix, will look into it..



Update on the two fish mounts and the BeamTech 4000. As you can see the BeamTech