Fifty Plus (50+) - At what point do you replace tires?

I seem to be hard on rear tires. Below is a picture of a Conti Gator Hardshell with about 2100 miles, the contact area has been worn flat, no longer round in profile. The front still looks pretty much like the day it went on.

It's not like we have tread wear indicators on these tires to tell us when to replace so the question is: when is it time to replace?

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x229/TomD77/post%20from/DSC8357.jpg

That does not look worn yet as no cord showing and no tears or rips. May have plenty of life in it or not much. My sure sign that a tyre is getting worn is when I start getting punctures on a frequent basis. So when you get a tyre this worn and you get a puncture- Feel how much rubber is left on the tread area. If it feels thin- change it.

I move worn tires to one of the older bikes that gets ridden less and mostly on paved trails. On the older bikes they have to be really worn before replacement.

Do you use the bike a lot on a trainer? The OEM Kenda Kryterium tires that came on my Defy lasted 3,100 flat free miles. I had a lot of trainer miles on the rear tire so I got some new Ultra-Gatorskins (now called Hardshells) and they are right at 1,700 flat free miles. I haven't had the bike on the trainer with the Gatorskins and they both look like new.

About two days ago.

My stock Kenda Qwest tires have flatted twice now (back tire) because of a puncture through the tire, where I can see little white threads. When I inflate the tire there's a tiny bulge at that spot.

So I ordered Schwalbe Marathons to replace them. They should arrive today. I just hate having to change flats.

BTW, I agree with the others. They don't look like yours need replacing yet.

Here is one. The rider had three flats on our ride today.

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About two days ago.

My stock Kenda Qwest tires have flatted twice now (back tire) because of a puncture through the tire, where I can see little white threads. When I inflate the tire there's a tiny bulge at that spot.

So I ordered Schwalbe Marathons to replace them. They should arrive today. I just hate having to change flats.

BTW, I agree with the others. They don't look like yours need replacing yet.

You will have much fun installing the Schwalbe Marathons. My friend had to use metal levers.

Here is one. The rider had three flats on our ride today.

244164

I'm surprised that he didn't have more. Looks like they're a little past calling them "slicks."

I'll always replace mine when I get a flat and can see tube rubber through the cord. Sometimes, just when pieces of cord are sticking out.

Replace them when you no longer have complete faith in them.

I would start checking them regularly at this point looking for signs of threads showing. When the rear looks shot, put the front tire on back and replace the front with a new tire. Or if you have a lot of big rides coming up, go ahead and change them now or move them to another bike.

Waiting for flats can be deceiving. I rode my first rear Roubaix Pro tire to the point that the belts were separating without a flat or any non visual sign of wear. I check them more often now. :)

Is it just me or am I seeing a little "whoopdie" in the tire alignment, so to speak? That flatspot is making the rim look out of true.

I keep ridding mine till the cord shows or I get multiple flats for no good reason.
Then there was the time I had a gator skin I threw away because I had so much radial tire wire pieces in it I was getting at least one flat per ride, and one time I had 4 flats on one ride. Thats when the tire went into the dumpster and a new one went on.

Probably 1/3 or maybe a bit more of my mileage is on the local bike path which runs alongside Narragansett Bay. Seagulls opening clams by dropping them on the paved path has that path littered with shards of clam shells. This results in my tires dieing the death of a thousand cuts. Well before the tread is worn, the rubber begins to look suspect. The bike path is dead flat so my speed is somewhat steady. On other rides where there is some downhill riding and speeds get up to 30 mph or so, I worry about a catastrophic failure. The result is that I check my tires for cuts frequently and when the fear factor is high enough, well before the rubber is worn, I replace. This is much cheaper than a hospital stay. I still get 2500 to 4000 miles on tires.

I seem to be hard on rear tires. Below is a picture of a Conti Gator Hardshell with about 2100 miles, the contact area has been worn flat, no longer round in profile. The front still looks pretty much like the day it went on.

It's not like we have tread wear indicators on these tires to tell us when to replace so the question is: when is it time to replace?

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x229/TomD77/post%20from/DSC8357.jpg

That's what my Gatorskins look like at 2000 miles. I can get another 1000 miles from them, IF they hold together! I find Gatorskins start to pick-up small cuts and tiny rips in the sidewall well before they wear out. Once I see that kind of damage, I change them out.

I've started using Vittoria and Schwalbe tires on my touring bikes. Even the speed-oriented Vittoria Rando Hyper is holding up far better than the Gatorskins.

I replace mine when the chord starts to show, if the sidewalls start to display threads coming away, if there is any other damage to the tire such as large tears or cuts that can't be fixed without a boot on the inside. The rear tire getting a flat profile is pretty typical. Like others have said, I'd start paying attention more often - check before each ride.

Being extremely adverse to flats is pretty much a given for anyone who selects Gator Hardshells, especially considering that flat resistance is the supposed principle characteristic and reason for being for the tire. I did get a flat (the 1st) on this tire about 2 weeks back, the cause was what I thought to be a very small stone chip. The next tire I get I think I'll use a micrometer to see the tire thickness new and again a couple of thousand miles later.

I replace mine when the chord starts to show, if the sidewalls start to display threads coming away, if there is any other damage to the tire such as large tears or cuts...

Me too. I replace with any cut through the cords that's more than 2mm or that shows some bulging. I don't worry about cuts that are only in the rubber and don't go through the cords. I'll add that I put the new tire on the front and move the used front to the rear if it was the rear that needed replacement.

1. Most of the time I cut a slash in caseing sidewall before the tread wears out.
2. If I start getting frequent punctures, I take it as a sign from my tire that it's time for a replacement.
3. If my karma is good, I'll eventually see a line start to form all the way around the centerline of the tire. When I see that, I know there's no use trying to get the last few miles out of that tire.

You will have much fun installing the Schwalbe Marathons. My friend had to use metal levers.

Ain't it the truth! I got them on without resorting to that, but my hands are sure sore now. My initial impression is that they're harsh, but I'll see tomorrow.

Ain't it the truth! I got them on without resorting to that, but my hands are sure sore now. My initial impression is that they're harsh, but I'll see tomorrow.

You did good.

I bought a Continental GP 4000s as a trial. This tire is highly regarded for its ride qualities, traction in the wet and durability. The ride qualities I can confirm - nice silky smooth ride as well as good traction. My principal interest is in a light tire that also has good durability. too soon to tell about durability.

My usual tire is the Serfas Seca which for the price is a fine tire with good traction, low cost and low weight but poor durability. The folder is a mere 210 grams in a 28mm.

My bike, a Specialized Secteur, came with 25 mm All Condition tires which are pretty good, good traction and general durability but they get cut up over clam shells on the bike path but are fine over the road. Looking at one of these tires right now with 3000 miles on it, there is probably another 1000 miles or more of life so this is a tire.

For more money, Specialized has a folding Roubaix Armadillo Elite I've been riding over the clam shells with no cuts to speak of or flats for about 1000 miles so far and only on the bike path so I'm well satisfied with this tire. On longer rides over the road I swap out the rear wheel for a Velocity A23 rim and Serfas Seca RS folder. Here the Serfas works great.

Not a surprise really but the tire should be matched to the road surface. I should mention that these tires are all 25mm or 28mm.

Ain't it the truth! I got them on without resorting to that, but my hands are sure sore now. My initial impression is that they're harsh, but I'll see tomorrow.

Those are not lightweight delicate namby-pamby tires - at 580 grams (559 size) they should be plenty durable.

You will have much fun installing the Schwalbe Marathons. My friend had to use metal levers.

Maybe... maybe not. This video has circulated a few times on the forums. Good technique for any tire:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4

Regarding the Gatorskins, I have about 2900 on my rear tire right now, a regular Gatorskin, and it looks like yours. I'll be watching it carefully to see what's happening. The threads on the sidewall (perhaps mainly cosmetic?) are starting to come out here and there. But under close inspection, the tire looks OK, particularly the sidewalls. No cracks. Sorry, no pictures.

When tires, as the rear in the photo, get squared off as such, they might be ridden for more miles but they lose their cornering feel. My rear looked just like the one shown and I could tell on descents especially there was a more defined edge. I replaced them yesterday. Now I would normally move the front tire to the rear and put a new tire on the front but my LBS gave me a pair of Specialized Turbo Pro 25s to try so off came the Spec. Turbo Sworks 23s. I rode them today and they felt quite nice. I'll know more after tomorrow's 70 miler.

Maybe... maybe not. This video has circulated a few times on the forums. Good technique for any tire:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4



Generally a good video, but I would disagree with the guy's assertion, when he starts mounting the final edge of the tire at the valve, that "you can start anywhere." Not true, for two reasons, which become quite apparent as he works away at completing the tire mounting. You should ALWAYS start opposite the valve, and finish mounting at the valve because:

1. If you start at the valve, you cannot put the tire bead adjacent to the valve into "the well." This loses you precious tire circumference. I'm amazed that this guy cannot see that! If you start opposite the valve, you can put the entire tire circumference into the well. The one place you don't need to put the bead into the well is at the valve, but that's OK, because that's where you finish!

2. You notice that the guy keeps having to push the inner tube into the tire to make sure it doesn't get caught under the bead as he nears completion. If you finish at the valve, this is not an issue, as the tube stays put because the valve is in the valve hole. And at the point where you push on the final section of the bead, you merely push the valve up so the bead can clear it, pop on the bead, then pull the valve back down to seat it in the valve hole.

Finishing at the valve I learned from John Forester early in my cycling career. The first time I tried it, I was amazed at how much easier it was.

Luis

I change mine when the air starts showing through.

I Start at the valve and once I have the tyre almost at the point it gets difficult to mount- I push the valve stem up inside the tyre to allow the bead to locate. The bead fully locates on the rim as it is being pulled into the well. That's my theory but the other way will have just as good a reason.

Those are not lightweight delicate namby-pamby tires - at 580 grams (559 size) they should be plenty durable.

Well, I don't intend to ride them over to Namby-Pamby Land.
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x40/TWLBA/46151895.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x229/TomD77/post%20from/DSC8357.jpg

Don't forget to close your brake quick release...

I change mine when the air starts showing through.

That's always my temptation.:lol:

you could use that squared tire for drag racing ... don't know about its cornering capabilities. just move that front tire back there when the rear starts showing too much wear, and get a new front. front tire flats at speed are no fun. ask my dislocated shoulder, from a front puncture doing a wind-aided 25 mph in the flats, Duck, NC. better now, after surgery.

I seem to be hard on rear tires. Below is a picture of a Conti Gator Hardshell with about 2100 miles, the contact area has been worn flat, no longer round in profile. The front still looks pretty much like the day it went on.

It's not like we have tread wear indicators on these tires to tell us when to replace so the question is: when is it time to replace?

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x229/TomD77/post%20from/DSC8357.jpg

I replace them when I get the third flat in the same year, or I see a defect in the tire. A defect would be cords showing through, a bulge or separation. Usually the rear wears out first, so you put the front on the rear and put a new one on the front.

I change mine when the air starts showing through.

Probably the Winter air trying to get out--Replace immediately with fresh stuff.

When tires, as the rear in the photo, get squared off as such, they might be ridden for more miles but they lose their cornering feel. My rear looked just like the one shown and I could tell on descents especially there was a more defined edge. I replaced them yesterday. Now I would normally move the front tire to the rear and put a new tire on the front but my LBS gave me a pair of Specialized Turbo Pro 25s to try so off came the Spec. Turbo Sworks 23s. I rode them today and they felt quite nice. I'll know more after tomorrow's 70 miler.

^^this.

J.

Maybe because of this thread I went ahead and switched out a Primo Comet Kevlar 26x1.5" tire with a Forte Metro K(evlar) 26x1.25" on the rear of my V3. Moderate tread wear and a few cuts on the comet - I'll keep it as a backup - but I wanted to again try the smaller Forte - lost around 100 grams which is a plus.
I've found that both tires are dirt easy to install/remove on Velocity Aeroheat rims. Used one plastic lever to start the removal of the Comet and the rest of the removal plus install of the Forte with fingers/thumbs.

The local Performance store had the prices for Forte Metro kevlar- and non-kevlar versions of the tires switched. Pointed that out to the sales guy and he sold me the kevlar tire for $9.99. The Comet Kevlars run in the $50-$60 range theses days.

BTW, my impression of the Schwalbes, if I might have an opinion from limited experience and knowledge (and why not? Everyone else has one) is that they are like so many things in my life: harsh but dependable.

I put 71 miles on the new Specialized Turbo Pro 25s and they were great. Unless I find a reason over the next few weeks that they don't work in certain conditions, I can't see switching to something else. I rode them at 90psi +/- and they sucked up most all road chatter, cornered well and were generally confidence inspiring. I'll need to take them out on wet roads to see how they handle that condition as today was a perfect bluebird day. They rolled great, I felt no increase in aero resistance and they were comfortable.

Continental GP4000 tires have wear indicators. When these two holes are worn off, the tread rubber is almost completely gone, so the tire is ready to be replaced. Maybe other Continental tires have these, too?

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_kHTMqWbsCgc/SSdezGatxqI/AAAAAAAAE1I/_-R1aznOXhI/004.JPG

I did a 100 mile ride on the Blue Ridge Parkway on Saturday, that finished with a 13-mile downhill stretch where I got up over 40MPH.

When I was putting the bike in the car, I saw that the rear tire was down to the cords in a big 4-inch patch, and the cords were showing through most of the rest of the way around the tire.

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii159/JimF22003/IMG_01791.jpg

I guess I should have replaced the tire before I took that downhill :eek:

Sundays ride is out, I guess, unless I can find a bike shop here in Blacksburg that opens early on an Easter Sunday...

I agree with the guys that think about downhill speeds when discussing worn tires. The thought of a worn back tire at speeds over 40 MPH is something I try to avoid, therefore, I probably replace tires TOO soon. Continental Attack/Force has become my tire of choice.

Replace them when you no longer have complete faith in them.
+1. If you're riding in Florida I might wait until I could see cord, but if your hitting 45+ mph on downhills as we easily to on the tandem I use the above approach.

You will need to experiment. We lowered tire pressure on the tandem because we were wearing out rear tires very quickly. At high pressure (and depending on your weight) the tire you picture could be just on the verge or showing cord. At lower pressure, where the patch is wider, you may have reasonable miles left. .

You will have much fun installing the Schwalbe Marathons. My friend had to use metal levers.
Not necessarily. I run Marathons and Marathon plus on most of my bikes, and I don't find them difficult to mount at all. I just finished a build with 700x25c Marathon plus on Velocity Deep V rims, and was able to put them on without tools .

I just did my first 70 mile ride of the season last weekend on a bike with Gatorskins. Just a few miles from home I was cruising along at a brisk pace on a busy road, and suddenly saw the bike lane was *covered* in broken glass. Imagine a gravel path, but the gravel is entirely crushed glass. There was too much traffic to swing out of the lane, and I was going to fast to brake before running into it, and I really didn't want to brake hard on a loose surface, so I plowed right through it. It extended for perhaps 20 yards. By the end, I slowed down, pulled over, and checked the tires for embedded glass, and...YIKES! I had cords showing through the rear tire, but no embedded glass.

The bike got a new tire as soon as I got home.

Continental GP4000 tires have wear indicators. When these two holes are worn off, the tread rubber is almost completely gone, so the tire is ready to be replaced. Maybe other Continental tires have these, too?

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_kHTMqWbsCgc/SSdezGatxqI/AAAAAAAAE1I/_-R1aznOXhI/004.JPG

Oh, that's what that is,
I thought it was decorative .
Dang

I just did my first 70 mile ride of the season last weekend on a bike with Gatorskins. Just a few miles from home I was cruising along at a brisk pace on a busy road, and suddenly saw the bike lane was *covered* in broken glass. Imagine a gravel path, but the gravel is entirely crushed glass. There was too much traffic to swing out of the lane, and I was going to fast to brake before running into it, and I really didn't want to brake hard on a loose surface, so I plowed right through it. It extended for perhaps 20 yards. By the end, I slowed down, pulled over, and checked the tires for embedded glass, and...YIKES! I had cords showing through the rear tire, but no embedded glass.

The bike got a new tire as soon as I got home.
Now, if you could just catch the reprobates that scattered all that glass, huh?

Continental GP4000 tires have wear indicators. When these two holes are worn off, the tread rubber is almost completely gone, so the tire is ready to be replaced. Maybe other Continental tires have these, too?

I just bought a new Gatorskin and they still don't have them.

I agree with the guys that think about downhill speeds when discussing worn tires. The thought of a worn back tire at speeds over 40 MPH is something I try to avoid, therefore, I probably replace tires TOO soon. Continental Attack/Force has become my tire of choice.

I probably wouldn't trust a back tire that was worn at 40MPH, I sure as heck wouldn't trust a worn front tire at that speed, a front tire blow out at 40MPH would most likely be fatal.

I probably wouldn't trust a back tire that was worn at 40MPH, I sure as heck wouldn't trust a worn front tire at that speed, a front tire blow out at 40MPH would most likely be fatal.

Your take on the front tire issue is similar to my thoughts until a couple of events. First, my brother, who is much faster (and younger) had a front tire blowout at 45 MPH on a downhill. He said he held it straight and stopped with very little problem. Surprised him and me. A short while later I had a front wheel blowout on a flat at 21 MPH. Not similar to a downhill 40+ MPH blowout, but still I had no handling problems. Besides, I very seldom have much wear on the front tire. The back is the one that wears and flats the most.

Continental GP4000 tires have wear indicators. When these two holes are worn off, the tread rubber is almost completely gone, so the tire is ready to be replaced. Maybe other Continental tires have these, too?

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_kHTMqWbsCgc/SSdezGatxqI/AAAAAAAAE1I/_-R1aznOXhI/004.JPG

And one of the holes is deeper than the other. By the time the first hole is level, I will likely have started getting flats, and the tire will have squared off a bit. I replace if I get a couple of flats that weren't from major debris.