Fifty Plus (50+) - What Should I expect to pay?

Hi. I am a "newbie", having ridden a lot as a teenager into my early 20's. Now at age 59, I am contemplating a new bike and a new morning regimen of riding. Concerning the bike to buy, what would I expect to pay for a bike with a good frame, Shimano Ultegra D12 electronic drivetrain, carbon fiber framework, FSA brakes,(front and rear)Ksyrium wheels, Ritchy pro bar and stem? I have doing some research but there is such an abundance of information, some of it obviously planted by interested parties, that it is hard to know what such a combination should cost. Any info would be appreciated. We are talking about a new bike. Thanks.

I will be the first to venture a guess. With the electronic shifters and higher quality wheels than comes normal I would guess you are in the $6000.00 range.

No personal attacks please, this is just a guess. Thanks

Someone is going to have to say it, and because there's nothing good on TV I guess I have to do it.

Why would you want a pro level bike if you're a noob?

You risk being branded as a poseur riding a dentist's bike (apologies to the dentists) at any group ride.

Your bike will resent you, especially if you're more than 25 pounds overweight.

If you don't get into cycling, it will be hard to resell.

Then again, if you're the wealthy 1%.....

First, welcome.

If you're buying at a local shop I would expect to pay around $4000+. You can get Ultegra Di2 equipped bike for less on-line, but not much, and it might not meet all of your specifications.

Someone is going to have to say it, and because there's nothing good on TV I guess I have to do it.

Why would you want a pro level bike if you're a noob?

You risk being branded as a poseur riding a dentist's bike (apologies to the dentists) at any group ride.

Your bike will resent you, especially if you're more than 25 pounds overweight.

If you don't get into cycling, it will be hard to resell.

Then again, if you're the wealthy 1%.....

Why would you possibly care what he spends on a bike? Give him a break.

Why would you possibly care what he spends on a bike? Give him a break.

Why would you care if I cared what he spends on a bike?

Yikes. I did not realize this was a pro bike. It did not occur to me that a better bike would present problems. I better damn well use it after I get it. The truth is, I have been riding motorcycles for years. I have ridden extensively in different parts of the world including the Alps, and Alaska and the Yukon. I have always felt vaguely guilty passing bicycles...the riders are after all getting in better shape while I am just coursing along letting the engine do the hard work. I did some research into what bike to buy and those components were highly rated, so I figured at my age, what the hell, get a good bike because if I don't, I will always think about a better bike and end up buying two and spending more money. I hope I am not making a mistake. I must say the logic escapes me, though. Why would a better bike be unsuited to a new rider? If I ride a lot, I will grow into the bike very quickly. If I don't ride it, then it makes no difference at all what bike I get. I still don't understand why a better bike would be a negative for any reason.

After careful consideration I withdraw my previous comment. I say go for it. I'm just jealous and a bit out of sorts that I didn't ride today.

I just don't bend that far over to ride far any more..

Be aware that no matter what quality bike you get, there is always, always a better one, likely riding in front of you.

However, one has to start somewhere, and I would sure like to be able (to afford) to start where you are planning to start.

Also, be aware that one can be perfectly happy on a $2,000 bike, and it won't be a whole lot different than a $4-6,000 bike, especially for a newbie. In any event, GO FOR IT!! And, mainly, have fun.

When it comes to bicycles, more expensive is not always better, but more likely lighter. Lighter is not always the most durable. If you have a few pounds to drop, start with a more durable bike and save weight by dropping some off the engine. Best bet is to go to your local bike shop (LBS), talk with them and ride some bikes. I think you'll find a couple of grand can get you a really nice bike.

Lighter is not always the most durable.

Heavier is not always the most durable either.

Get the cool bike and go ride it.

Hey, I ride a pro level bike and can go off the back as well as anyone. But, I look good doing it so I'm cool. lol

I'll throw my 2 cents in. At the price point you are considering you could buy some of the most sought after vintage bikes and ride what a lot of cycling aficionados consider cycling art. Look up Constructeur, Alex Singer, Rene Hearse and oogle some truly beautiful bikes. Might as well look at Cinelli, Eisentraut, Behringer.

Also check out hilarystone.com

I would never discourage somebody from buying a high end bicycle if their budget allows. I suspect that although many may not derive the ultimate performance that the bicycle can deliver, having a bicycle that evokes a passion will get ridden more often and for greater distance.

My bicycle is better than I need and many can get better performance from much less expensive bicycles than I can obtain from mine. I am passionate about riding it, however. Although it is a better bicycle than I need, I am strongly considering Ultegra Di2. I saw a new Specialized Roubaix SL3 Pro frame go for about $1300 on Ebay. My Roubaix Expert is a 2010 SL2. The weight difference is only 100 grams, and I could never justify the upgrade. I surely was tempted. I am saving enough for my retirement and although I would consider it extravagant, I have spent more on other things that have provided less pleasure than a new frame built with Di2. I could have probably build the bicycle for about $4000 if I re-used my Roval Fusee SL wheels. As an engineer practicality overcame my emotions. I may wait until the 2013 models come out and see whet kind of a discount I can get on a 2012 Roubaix Pro with Di2. My emotions may eventually win.

White Gold rims will be kinda heavy to match your watch.

Price doesn't matter in the OP's situation.

These do:

Friendly Bike Shop
Perfect fit to the bike.
The Color.

Get one and have fun.

Yikes. I did not realize this was a pro bike. It did not occur to me that a better bike would present problems. I better damn well use it after I get it. The truth is, I have been riding motorcycles for years. I have ridden extensively in different parts of the world including the Alps, and Alaska and the Yukon. I have always felt vaguely guilty passing bicycles...the riders are after all getting in better shape while I am just coursing along letting the engine do the hard work. I did some research into what bike to buy and those components were highly rated, so I figured at my age, what the hell, get a good bike because if I don't, I will always think about a better bike and end up buying two and spending more money. I hope I am not making a mistake. I must say the logic escapes me, though. Why would a better bike be unsuited to a new rider? If I ride a lot, I will grow into the bike very quickly. If I don't ride it, then it makes no difference at all what bike I get. I still don't understand why a better bike would be a negative for any reason.

Buy whatever you like. Higher end road bikes are lighter, easier to pedal, and the components work well. They are aimed at racing or going fast. You may have to lean over more than you want. You also may need to learn about small saddles and bike shorts. But seats and stems and handlebars can be changed. They are also bumpier. Often favoring light weight over being durable. The wheels and tires will not be up to big holes or bumps. However, myself going from decades of motorcycling, to high end bicycles, I was used to scanning the ground and looking at traffic far ahead. I was used to the speed of motorcycles and dirt bikes. It made going around holes and riding in traffic extremely easy. Almost too easy. One only needs to learn the limits of more fragile tires and wheels. And not being able to absorb big bumps like a motorcycle. Also the braking is limited by the small tires. Very easy to learn, after going 50mph down foot paths in the woods. Probably much easier for you than any non motorcyclist due to the speed. Stopping fast on 23mm tires with 120 lbs in them is nothing like a motorcycle. NOTHING!

If you are reasonably mechanically proficient, $2799.95 seems about right. :)

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/lechamp_cf_ultegra_di2.htm

I would be very surprised if you could walk out the door of your LBS with a CF frame, Di2, Ksyrium wheels, etc. for less than $6000.

I bought a (much less expensive) BD bike, and was delighted. I might be more hesitant to buy cutting edge technology that way. On the other hand, Di2 seems like it's more inherently self-adjusting than mechanical shifters and derailleurs.

Did you maintain your own motorcycles?

You work hard for your money. Spend it how you like. If it's not your wife or financial planner coaxing you to buy less expensive, let it fall on deaf ears my friend.
What ever you decide, ride it, report it and post photos here!!!
Good luck!!!

A Bianchi Infinito Ultegra Di2 (in celeste -- gorgeous) or Sempre Ultegra Di2 are in the $5k range. Very nice. If you're one of those guys who knows they are really going to like something, then I'd say go for it. If your garage is full of spendy items you only used once or twice, then maybe you should think twice about spending $5k to start, but it's your money. If you like the sport, I don't see waiting 5 or 10 years to get a nice bike -- go for it while you're (relatively) young.

PatekCalatrava,

I am a long time motorcyclist having owned Guzzi, Ducati, Norton, Triumph, Honda & Kawasikis. I am sure that you have seen newbies to motorcycling that went right out and bought a 1800 Gold Wing or a Hayabusa as their first bike. These are the best or near the best bikes in their particular niches, so they must be the ones for a rookie to buy, right? The result is usually a lot of problems, disillusionment and sometimes major accidents. A lot of these guys would have been better off buying something like a GS550 or a 650 Nighthawk and possibly used. Now major accidents are much less common with newbs on bicycles but adjustment problems are.

Like with motorcycles you need some seat time. If you haven't spent a lot of time on a bicycle before your muscles will settle in and develop in the ways that bicycling demands. Yes there is a learning curve for the level of cycling that the kind of bike you are looking at is made for.

Do you want to go touring, race, club rides, casual rides or just exercise. It's sort of the same difference between touring, cafe, musclebikes, motocross, trials, or cruiser motorcycles.

Personally I would decide what kind of bicycling you are wanting to do and then head for the local bike shop. Personally I would even consider a good used bike. Explain what you want to do to the local bike shop owner and see what he shows you. Don't blow your wad on your first bike. Just get a good serviceable starter bike that matches what you want to do. Have the bike shop fit the bike to you. This is very important as a badly fit bike can cause you a lot of needless problems and will not be very enjoyable.

After you have a quality starter bike then try to use it up. Find your local bike club and go on some rides with them. At first they will probably drop you like a GSXR1100 leaving a CB360. Still you should be able to find someone who will ride with you. Look at the bikes that some of the riders have. As with motorcycles once the owners get to know you, you can probably bum some rides on some of the high end bikes. The more you learn the more your ideas about what you want will change!

I would ride the first bike for at least a year before you go hunting for your dream bike.

In short think about how you would instruct a novice motorcyclist about getting into cycling and then take your own advice with your bicycle.

Lastly, when you get ready to upgrade the local bike shop where you bought the bicycle should give you a large percentage of what you spent as a trade-in. While bicycles do depreciate they don't do it on the same rate as motor vehicles. Many shops will give you even more trade-in if you bought the original bike at their store so save your receipt.

By all means come back here as you progress and ask questions. There are a lot of folks in this forum who have spent a lot of years peddling down roads and trails.

I did some research into what bike to buy and those components were highly rated, so I figured at my age, what the hell, get a good bike because if I don't, I will always think about a better bike and end up buying two and spending more money. I hope I am not making a mistake.

Actually I think it is a mistake to think you can get your "bike for life" on the first try. You may benefit from getting beginner's bike and then graduating to better bike after a while. Your fitness, flexibility and riding style will evolve and the bike may have to be changed to accomodate that.


Buy whatever you like.
He doesn't know what he likes.

That's a pretty detailed list of specifications indicating you must have done a fair amount of research. Kind of surprising you didn't stumble across any pricing information during all that research. If you are really prepared to spend that kind of $ on a starter bike, you should go to a high end bike shop and let them show you what they have. I'm sure they'll be happy to help you. Happy riding. :)

I started riding again at age 54 and bought my first road bike since college at age 57. I spent nearly $6K on a custom fitted ti frame with an ultegra triple. In the 5 years I've owned the bike I've ridden over 10k miles on it. I really enjoy riding the bike. It was well worth the money I spent on it. You can't take it with you. If the Di2 was available 5 years ago I might have splurged the price difference for the electronic shifters. Heck I might even upgrade my bike to one this year or next. You might as well spend it on something you enjoy that will keep you fit than give it to the doctors later.

Hi. I am a "newbie", having ridden a lot as a teenager into my early 20's. Now at age 59, I am contemplating a new bike and a new morning regimen of riding. Concerning the bike to buy, what would I expect to pay for a bike with a good frame, Shimano Ultegra D12 electronic drivetrain, carbon fiber framework, FSA brakes,(front and rear)Ksyrium wheels, Ritchy pro bar and stem? I have doing some research but there is such an abundance of information, some of it obviously planted by interested parties, that it is hard to know what such a combination should cost. Any info would be appreciated. We are talking about a new bike. Thanks.


A simple answer would be 4 to 7k. You would be getting a great bike and because of that you might ride more. It will be a bike you more than likely will not grow out of. But an important issue is finding a "good" bike shop and getting measured and have a fit tossed in with the purchase. If the bike fits and you like it who cares what others think? It is like having a top of the line motorcycle, some will tell you that all you need is a 250 but if you get a superbike you will never outgrow it. It is just that most of us aren't used to seeing someone go all in on a first bike. If I had the money and were doing it all over again I would look at a Guru Proton: http://www.gurubikes.com/enUS/products/photon/

Not sure it can be had with DI2 but it sure would be a cool ride.

PatekCalatrava,

I am a long time motorcyclist having ...+1
I am glad someone beat me to writing this long post.

I started riding again at age 53 on my 30-year-old schwinn 10-speed. Found that it was too big and couldn't adjust it to be comfortable.
Within 6 months I bought a "new" bike, never used and a 3-year-old model. It was that year's top-of-the-line model, carbon fiber monocoque frame, full Dura-Ace components, etc. I loved how the bike fit.
The next 3 years I was the slowest in the bike club then finally found some speed. The bike never held me back and I've never wished I spent more on better components. I've put almost 12,000 miles on it in 3-1/2 years. It has been money very well spent given the health benefits and enjoyment I've received.
The LBS and I are best friends. They give lifetime free checkups, a decent shop fit, helped me find a comfortable saddle at no extra charge, and have gone to bat when a wheel developed a crack within warrantee. They sold the bike to me for 1/2 price since it was an old model year. I am sure I have spent the difference buying bike clothes, gloves, locks, and all the other "stuff" for year-round cycling. I don't think I would ever buy a bike online.

The reason for getting the first bike--Is to find out what you should have bought in the first place.

There are so many variables on bike specs now that they are confusing. DI2 is well proven now so no problem there but to lay down what you want without experience is a bit risky. C.F. are good but What grade and style of frame? C.F. frames can give you a good compliant ride or knock your fillings out. Frame geometry can differ greatly so can you take riding with your head between your knees- or would your back prefer a more upright stance? Ritchey are only one manufacturer amongst many good ones so why tie yourself down to just one? Nothing wrong with Shimano Brakes so why so set on FSA? And Krysium wheels come in a variety of forms and cost and ride will differ greatly amongst them.

Looks like the OP has tried to sort the highest spec on a bike without realising that there is only one thing that matters on a bike and that is the rider. You may be a very fit person right now but are you bike fit? There is a difference. Similarly- I realise you can probably ride a bike but can you "Ride" one? Know how and where to change gear? how to brake in differing road conditions? How to ease the hand- butt and back problems that can come in after a few miles into those early rides.

I am not suggesting you go for a Basic bike to start off with but I do suggest that you find an LBS that can advise you on that first bike. Then once you know what you NEED rather than WANT- Then sort the bike that you should have bought in the first place.

OK, I'm 58. Not rich, but not a poor 20 year old any more.

I say, buy as expensive a bike as you want.

The Ultegra DI2: there is no reason NOT to buy it except for price. It's the latest and greatest and gets great reviews. It will give you functionality you can't get with non-electronic stuff, and if it intrigues you, go for it. It is not the highest end of electronic, so no stigma there.

Get a frame with "comfort" features: longer wheel base, higher head tube. Then get the material you desire: steel, aluminum, titanium or carbon fiber. There is no reason to skimp as long as you get a frame that suits your comfort level. The Specialized Roubaixes and Felt Z's of the world are high end bikes, but will not cause you the discomfort that a full-on racing frame will. So no stigma w/ high quality/$$ here as long as you get a geometry sensible for you.

The brakes and other stuff, just get what comes with the bike, but then don't be afraid to spend some more money getting the perfect saddle and handlebars for your comfort.

Short version: there is no reason not to get the electronic Ultegra and the highest quality frame you can afford. I think the electronic shifting will actually be a boon for a relative newby and as long as yu get a frame sensible for your use, why not get a high end version if you can afford it?

Nice bicycling gear is loads of fun regardless of your performance level.

Like others, I'd say there is absolutely nothing wrong with having the best bike you can afford, irrespective of your level of fitness or competence.

The only note of caution I would have sounded if money might be a problem is to ask if you are sure you know what sort of riding you want to do. It sounds as if it's a long time since you rode bicycles, it's just possible you might prefer tooling around on a top-class tourer, for example, than hammering along on an out-and-out road bike. This isn't necessarily the cheap option, there are plenty of very expensive tourers out there - I have yet to hear of anyone touring on Di2, but it is bound to happen.

However, at the price points you seem to be considering it sounds as if having more than one bike might eventually be an affordable option for you. Deciding after a while that you want a different bike is not always a recognition that you have made the wrong choice, it may simply be that you want to ride in different styles at different times. Personally I cruise around on a singlespeed, go for long rides -some fast, most slow - on a CF road bike, and go on vacation on a heavy-duty steel touring bike. Oh, and there's another slightly less aggressive CF road bike in bits in a bedroom. I am, of course, slightly nuts; but I can assure you mine is a mild case compared with some of the people in here.

Get the best damn bike you can afford. But do it only after finding a good, knowledgable shop that can help you better define the kind of riding you want to do, and any physical issues you may (or may not) have as a 50+er (limited back or neck flexibility, arthritic wrists, etc.). You may find that you're more comfortable on a high quality "endurance" type geometry than a full-bore high-end race bike. Or you may even decide touring geometry is more suitable to your needs. Then there's the whole issue of frame material. It kind of goes on and on. Get someone who can help you, in person, with a range of bikes you can ride, preferably for longer tests than just around a parking lot. My LBS has "unlimited" test rides - they've let people take bikes out for 50-60 mile rides. I test rode mine on a 30-mile club ride.

My point, I guess, is money isn't the issue - it's awareness and education about how and where you want to ride. Once that's decided, spend as much money as you want, regardless of what anyone else has to say about it.

Friendly Bike Shop
Perfect fit to the bike.
The Color.

Get one and have fun.

No S**T, hands down, the best advise, ever!

But since I'm at it, IMHO you seem to have spec'd your dream bike. I'd say start with a lesser bike, and upgrade parts as you want\need to. Take some time and see what works best for you, then when you get you likes and dislikes and size position sorted out, then pull the trigger on the dream bike. Shop for a shops first, try a few. Some are better than others(trust me on this). Some are good for a few thing, some are good for other things. Find one that listens to YOU, and what you think you want. They may offer a better solution, or just sell you what you asked for(which may be completly wrong, again trust me). You want a bike that you enjoy riding, it fits good and works well, and is dependable. Do you have a full time mechanic on staff? Your bike shouldn't be so delicate it needs a rebuild once a week(you get the idea). If you don't enjoy riding it, you won't. Money wasted, and nobody wants to do that. Take you time, do your research, and go to as many shops as you can. Find the bike that's right for you, not just a list of parts you want.
Then ride it and enjoy it.

Be aware that no matter what quality bike you get, there is always, always a better one, likely riding in front of you.

However, one has to start somewhere, and I would sure like to be able (to afford) to start where you are planning to start.

Also, be aware that one can be perfectly happy on a $2,000 bike, and it won't be a whole lot different than a $4-6,000 bike, especially for a newbie. In any event, GO FOR IT!! And, mainly, have fun.

+1

I have seven bikes, all but one of which was bought or built brand new, my favorite is the single used one - an old 80ish Bianchi that I pulled out of the trash and rebuilt.

My best advice...test ride as many off-the-shelf bikes as you can and buy the one that fits and feels the best. Once you get some miles under your belt again, you'll have a much better idea of what you both want and need in a bike, and may end up buying another one...so keep that in mind when determining the price you want to pay for the first one. ;)

Depends..on who you buy form and the frame material mostly.
Buy thru someplace like Bikesdirect (and expect to shell out about $60 to have the LBS mechanic set it up )and you'll pay $2400 for a full CF with DI2 Ultegra/FSA Crank/decent wheels
Buy the DI2 on an aluminum frame/carbon forked setup and it'll probably run you about $2200 thru the LBS (who's probably discounting those '11s about now)
Go top line CF ,Dura Ace,DI2 and you'll be in the $4K and up range.
None of the above are gonna keep you on pace with the hammers in the club if you arn't in top shape.
Fellow rider once observed it's the engine that makes the bike go not the other way around.

Well, after reading all this advice and also soliciting advice from friends on Facebook, I have decided to not go ahead with the bike. The main reason is that it became increasingly clear as I read the comments that the more expensive bike with the components I had in mind were not necessarily the best bike for me. I had the mistaken notion that the better components would necessarily mean a more enjoyable ride, and from what I have read, the expensive bike I had in mind was built for speed. Speed is not my main aim here.

I am more interested in getting out in the morning, enjoying the fresh air and sunshine and getting some exercise before heading to the office. It seems, and correct me if I am wrong, that the bike I had in mind is designed for serious racer types and that for my purposes would not be more satisfying to ride than a more modest machine.

My feeling is that if it is not going to be, at the outset, a "great" experience to be riding a high end bike, I really should not spend the money. A high end stereo will sound better than a cheap set up, but it seems like a high end bike will not necessarily "ride" better than a more humble model. I don't see myself riding with highly accomplished athletes or anything of that sort....

So, I have an old ten speed "Sutton" sitting in my garage...a Japanese bike, apparently. I will take to a dealer and see if it can be rehabilitated. One dealer already told me it is too far gone, but I am skeptical...thanks for all your advice!

Old gas pipe ten speeds tend to end up discouraging people just getting back into riding. If it fits you and how you want to ride, go for it, otherwise, test ride, test ride, test ride...all kinds of bikes. Find what fits you and feels best to you, physically, emotionally and financially. You simply don't have the miles and experience to know what kind of riding you're going to be doing, let alone what equipment is best suited to it. The goal at present should be to get a bike that feels right now and adapt as you get those miles and experience.

Bike shopping and test riding is fun! Indulge your feminine shopping side! :D

sutton could be a pretty nice bike

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/424263-Ever-heard-of-A-SUTTON-RACER

If you're buying at a local shop I would expect to pay around $4000+. You can get Ultegra Di2 equipped bike for less on-line, but not much, and it might not meet all of your specifications.

This sounds about right. I would caution you about an on-line bikes. At this price point, you really need to test ride the bike before purchasing. That could be difficult with an on-line purchase, unless you went to a LBS and rode their bikes, then ordered on-line. I'll leave the moral argument about doing that to others. A lot of bikes today have a very aggressive geometry and you may not be comfortable riding a bike your on-line purchased based on specifications alone.

Also, do you really need to go electronic? You can save quite a bit my going mechanical. That's a question for you to answer.

Again, I highly recommend that you test ride a purchase before laying your money on the counter. Make sure the test ride includes some climbing and descending. I speak from experience. Got a screaming deal last year on a Dura-Ace bike, but the thing scares the hell out of me on descents. Almost put me in the hospital on the first high-speed downhill run. On the flats, it's a jack rabbit. Acceleration is instantaneous and effortless. Climbs like a mountain goat. It is just extremely unstable on descents. Tried to mitigate the unstableness. Got a pro fit. Swapped out components. Changed wheels. Nothing worked. The frame now sits naked in the spare bedroom upstairs, the components stripped and moved to a frame that instills confidence while riding in just about every situation or terrain. It is a bike I wanted to love - but can't because it is so temperamental.

- - - - -

Sorry. I should have read the whole thread before replying. For your purposes, consider a hybrid bike. It sounds like it would serve well for what you want.

Well, after reading all this advice and also soliciting advice from friends on Facebook, I have decided to not go ahead with the bike. The main reason is that it became increasingly clear as I read the comments that the more expensive bike with the components I had in mind were not necessarily the best bike for me. I had the mistaken notion that the better components would necessarily mean a more enjoyable ride, and from what I have read, the expensive bike I had in mind was built for speed. Speed is not my main aim here.

I am more interested in getting out in the morning, enjoying the fresh air and sunshine and getting some exercise before heading to the office. It seems, and correct me if I am wrong, that the bike I had in mind is designed for serious racer types and that for my purposes would not be more satisfying to ride than a more modest machine.

My feeling is that if it is not going to be, at the outset, a "great" experience to be riding a high end bike, I really should not spend the money. A high end stereo will sound better than a cheap set up, but it seems like a high end bike will not necessarily "ride" better than a more humble model. I don't see myself riding with highly accomplished athletes or anything of that sort....

So, I have an old ten speed "Sutton" sitting in my garage...a Japanese bike, apparently. I will take to a dealer and see if it can be rehabilitated. One dealer already told me it is too far gone, but I am skeptical...thanks for all your advice!

I'd like to respond to several things you've said. First, having a bike that will go fast doesn't mean that you must be a serious racer type. Five of my seven bikes were designed to "go fast" and three of the models I ride have been used by professionals in major international races. And trust me, I'm about as far away from being a racer as you can get. Yet, the "go fast" bikes are the ones I like best. I tend to think about it this way. I can drive a modest, no frills car, or I can drive a top of the line car that is also capable of going 212 MPH. AND, the really fast car handles better in that it is more responsive. Interestingly enough the fast car can also go slow. Trying to make the modest no frills car go fast...well that's a whole lot harder. The same holds true, as you well know, for most motorcycles. Yes, my Honda 360 Scrambler was fun, but I was much happier on the Suzuki VX800. The thing is, for me at least, is that I can't afford an Aston Martin 1. I can afford some pretty decent bikes. So, I go with the best I can afford. Having ridden electronic shifting, I know that it will be one of my next upgrades, once the price comes down.

In any event, given you had indicated you did some research, I assumed that included some test rides. What I would STRONGLY recommend is finding a reliable bike shop and test riding as many bikes as they'll let you take out. I liked the advice given above that identified a good LBS as one that will also help you make the right decision for you. I can honestly say, I've never over purchased when it comes to bikes. The better the bike, the more I've enjoyed it. It is true, however, that you may find you don't like this sport. In which case lots of tests rides make sense. Finally, keep in mind the N+1 rule for those that do get hooked on this sport. Whatever you have now will always need to be increased by....just one more. Happy searching.

PatekCalatrava,

I am a long time motorcyclist having owned Guzzi, Ducati, Norton, Triumph, Honda & Kawasikis. I am sure that you have seen newbies to motorcycling that went right out and bought a 1800 Gold Wing or a Hayabusa as their first bike. These are the best or near the best bikes in their particular niches, so they must be the ones for a rookie to buy, right? The result is usually a lot of problems, disillusionment and sometimes major accidents. A lot of these guys would have been better off buying something like a GS550 or a 650 Nighthawk and possibly used. Now major accidents are much less common with newbs on bicycles but adjustment problems are.

Like with motorcycles you need some seat time. If you haven't spent a lot of time on a bicycle before your muscles will settle in and develop in the ways that bicycling demands. Yes there is a learning curve for the level of cycling that the kind of bike you are looking at is made for.

Do you want to go touring, race, club rides, casual rides or just exercise. It's sort of the same difference between touring, cafe, musclebikes, motocross, trials, or cruiser motorcycles.

Personally I would decide what kind of bicycling you are wanting to do and then head for the local bike shop. Personally I would even consider a good used bike. Explain what you want to do to the local bike shop owner and see what he shows you. Don't blow your wad on your first bike. Just get a good serviceable starter bike that matches what you want to do. Have the bike shop fit the bike to you. This is very important as a badly fit bike can cause you a lot of needless problems and will not be very enjoyable.

After you have a quality starter bike then try to use it up. Find your local bike club and go on some rides with them. At first they will probably drop you like a GSXR1100 leaving a CB360. Still you should be able to find someone who will ride with you. Look at the bikes that some of the riders have. As with motorcycles once the owners get to know you, you can probably bum some rides on some of the high end bikes. The more you learn the more your ideas about what you want will change!

I would ride the first bike for at least a year before you go hunting for your dream bike.

In short think about how you would instruct a novice motorcyclist about getting into cycling and then take your own advice with your bicycle.

Lastly, when you get ready to upgrade the local bike shop where you bought the bicycle should give you a large percentage of what you spent as a trade-in. While bicycles do depreciate they don't do it on the same rate as motor vehicles. Many shops will give you even more trade-in if you bought the original bike at their store so save your receipt.

By all means come back here as you progress and ask questions. There are a lot of folks in this forum who have spent a lot of years peddling down roads and trails.

I sure wish you hadn't gone there. Now I REALLY miss my '88 Honda Hawk GT. What a great bike...especially in the twisties. I love pedaling and I love my Miata....but neither are a motorcycle.

Well, after reading all this advice and also soliciting advice from friends on Facebook, I have decided to not go ahead with the bike. The main reason is that it became increasingly clear as I read the comments that the more expensive bike with the components I had in mind were not necessarily the best bike for me. I had the mistaken notion that the better components would necessarily mean a more enjoyable ride, and from what I have read, the expensive bike I had in mind was built for speed. Speed is not my main aim here.

I am more interested in getting out in the morning, enjoying the fresh air and sunshine and getting some exercise before heading to the office. It seems, and correct me if I am wrong, that the bike I had in mind is designed for serious racer types and that for my purposes would not be more satisfying to ride than a more modest machine.

My feeling is that if it is not going to be, at the outset, a "great" experience to be riding a high end bike, I really should not spend the money. A high end stereo will sound better than a cheap set up, but it seems like a high end bike will not necessarily "ride" better than a more humble model. I don't see myself riding with highly accomplished athletes or anything of that sort....

So, I have an old ten speed "Sutton" sitting in my garage...a Japanese bike, apparently. I will take to a dealer and see if it can be rehabilitated. One dealer already told me it is too far gone, but I am skeptical...thanks for all your advice!

I wish you wouldn't let a bunch of jealous morons derail you from getting the bike you want. Fact is that better components and wheels will ride better than lesser components and wheels. Also the fact is that if you want to buy an expensive bike it is nobody's business. Get the best bike you can afford and don't pay any attention to losers who can't afford a fancy bike.

I wish you wouldn't let a bunch of jealous morons derail you from getting the bike you want. Fact is that better components and wheels will ride better than lesser components and wheels. Also the fact is that if you want to buy an expensive bike it is nobody's business. Get the best bike you can afford and don't pay any attention to losers who can't afford a fancy bike.

oh, oh, somebody got their butt hurt...and it affected their reading skillz! :eek:

If you ride a 58-61 size I have a couple bikes that you might like. :innocent:

Well, after reading all this advice and also soliciting advice from friends on Facebook, I have decided to not go ahead with the bike. The main reason is that it became increasingly clear as I read the comments that the more expensive bike with the components I had in mind were not necessarily the best bike for me. I had the mistaken notion that the better components would necessarily mean a more enjoyable ride, and from what I have read, the expensive bike I had in mind was built for speed. Speed is not my main aim here.

I am more interested in getting out in the morning, enjoying the fresh air and sunshine and getting some exercise before heading to the office. It seems, and correct me if I am wrong, that the bike I had in mind is designed for serious racer types and that for my purposes would not be more satisfying to ride than a more modest machine.

My feeling is that if it is not going to be, at the outset, a "great" experience to be riding a high end bike, I really should not spend the money. A high end stereo will sound better than a cheap set up, but it seems like a high end bike will not necessarily "ride" better than a more humble model. I don't see myself riding with highly accomplished athletes or anything of that sort....

So, I have an old ten speed "Sutton" sitting in my garage...a Japanese bike, apparently. I will take to a dealer and see if it can be rehabilitated. One dealer already told me it is too far gone, but I am skeptical...thanks for all your advice!

Those more expensive components can still make for a more enjoyable ride, even if you're more of a recreatonal rider like I am. I have a mid range Ultegra set up on my bike, and find the shifting very easy for the most part. A couple of years ago on vacation I rented a road bike, that had low end Tiagra components and there was a big difference in the smoothness and ease of changing gears. All in all you will find a good fit to be the most important component in your bike. If the bike is comfortable you will want to ride it more. Go into your shop and explain to them the kind of riding you want to do, what you're looking for, and what you want the bike to do for you. i.e, I bought a custom built bike from a shop that specializes in such builds. Most of their clients are triathletes and racers. After getting a fitting that took over 2.5 hours, we discussed frame types, gearing, wheels etc. I explained I was new to a road bike, had only been riding mountain and comfort bikes in a more upright position, etc. Wanted sturdier wheels as I have a tendency to find potholes, curbs, etc. In the end they assembled a bike for me based on a custom fitted Ti frame that gets ridden at least 10 hours week in the warmer months. My wife purchased her bike from the same shop 2 years later and with prices dropping her custom built CF bike also with Ultegra, (but a rear MTB deraileur since she wanted a very large granny gear) was even less than mine, and only $800 more than another LBS wanted for Specialized Roubaix CF bike. Buy what you find both comfortable and what you can afford.
As for the old bike in the garage save that for a later restoration project.

OK, I am totally confused now. I went to a dealer and looked at the Trek Hybrid bikes. The best one was a 7.7 model. Of course, I will pay full price there, but the guy was really helpful and patient with me. He had the road bikes there also and I just kept feeling that I wanted a road bike, not a hybrid, but so many people are recommending a hybrid for me. The one message on this board that really disturbed me compared a new bicycle rider to a brand new motorcycle rider, with the claim that a new bicycle rider could easily get into a lot of trouble on a high end bike just as a new motorcyclist could get killed on a powerful motorcycle for which he lacked riding skills. Are there really so many new skills to learn on a bicycle? I rode bikes as a kid constantly. So, at the moment, no bike, and really unsure. I guess the only way to know is to bite the bullet, and see how it goes. Next week I am supposed to return to the dealer and take a closer look at a Trek 7.7 hybrid.

Well, after reading all this advice and also soliciting advice from friends on Facebook, I have decided to not go ahead with the bike. The main reason is that it became increasingly clear as I read the comments that the more expensive bike with the components I had in mind were not necessarily the best bike for me. I had the mistaken notion that the better components would necessarily mean a more enjoyable ride, and from what I have read, the expensive bike I had in mind was built for speed. Speed is not my main aim here.

I am more interested in getting out in the morning, enjoying the fresh air and sunshine and getting some exercise before heading to the office. It seems, and correct me if I am wrong, that the bike I had in mind is designed for serious racer types and that for my purposes would not be more satisfying to ride than a more modest machine.

My feeling is that if it is not going to be, at the outset, a "great" experience to be riding a high end bike, I really should not spend the money. A high end stereo will sound better than a cheap set up, but it seems like a high end bike will not necessarily "ride" better than a more humble model. I don't see myself riding with highly accomplished athletes or anything of that sort....

So, I have an old ten speed "Sutton" sitting in my garage...a Japanese bike, apparently. I will take to a dealer and see if it can be rehabilitated. One dealer already told me it is too far gone, but I am skeptical...thanks for all your advice!

The best advice you can gleen from these exchanges is:
1. Try before you buy.
2. A good bike shop will help you make a better decission.
3. People that enjoy cycling learn the N+1 rule. N= the bike or bikes you have. +1 = Bikes you want, need, or get.
4. A first bike teaches you what you next bike should be.
5. There is no perfect bike.
6. You will learn to love cycling by cycling more.

OK, I am totally confused now. I went to a dealer and looked at the Trek Hybrid bikes. The best one was a 7.7 model. Of course, I will pay full price there, but the guy was really helpful and patient with me. He had the road bikes there also and I just kept feeling that I wanted a road bike, not a hybrid, but so many people are recommending a hybrid for me. The one message on this board that really disturbed me compared a new bicycle rider to a brand new motorcycle rider, with the claim that a new bicycle rider could easily get into a lot of trouble on a high end bike just as a new motorcyclist could get killed on a powerful motorcycle for which he lacked riding skills. Are there really so many new skills to learn on a bicycle? I rode bikes as a kid constantly. So, at the moment, no bike, and really unsure. I guess the only way to know is to bite the bullet, and see how it goes. Next week I am supposed to return to the dealer and take a closer look at a Trek 7.7 hybrid.
There is one big difference between a motorcycle and a bicycle and that is on a bicycle you are the engine. No matter what bike you buy it wont be faster than you're capable of pedaling it. Test ride a road bike, and test ride a hybrid. Buy what you feel most comfortable on. When I got the road bike one of the things I felt uncomfortable with was the skinny road tires, so I started out with 25's instead of 23's - my old hybrid had 28's on it. The biggest skill for me to learn was going to bike shoes and clipless pedals. I did fall down quite a bit.

The best advice you can gleen from these exchanges is:
1. Try before you buy.
2. A good bike shop will help you make a better decission.
3. People that enjoy cycling learn the N+1 rule. N= the bike or bikes you have. +1 = Bikes you want, need, or get.
4. A first bike teaches you what you next bike should be.
5. There is no perfect bike.
6. You will learn to love cycling by cycling more.

Nice summary

To the OP: Don't let them push you into a hybrid. If you feel you want a road bike, try some road bikes. Try all kinds of bikes and buy what fits and feels best to you. My only concern would be over-spending on this initial bike, because even odds say you might find out after some time riding that perhaps this particular bike isn't best suited to the type of riding you actually end up doing.

FYI, at our age way too many bike shops will just assume we want a hybrid or a comfort bike. :(

OK, I am totally confused now. I went to a dealer and looked at the Trek Hybrid bikes. The best one was a 7.7 model. Of course, I will pay full price there, but the guy was really helpful and patient with me. He had the road bikes there also and I just kept feeling that I wanted a road bike, not a hybrid, but so many people are recommending a hybrid for me. The one message on this board that really disturbed me compared a new bicycle rider to a brand new motorcycle rider, with the claim that a new bicycle rider could easily get into a lot of trouble on a high end bike just as a new motorcyclist could get killed on a powerful motorcycle for which he lacked riding skills. Are there really so many new skills to learn on a bicycle? I rode bikes as a kid constantly. So, at the moment, no bike, and really unsure. I guess the only way to know is to bite the bullet, and see how it goes. Next week I am supposed to return to the dealer and take a closer look at a Trek 7.7 hybrid.

I think you may be letting your motorcycle experiences take up too much space in your head. Yes, the first time I got on a fast motorcycle, was doing 65 mph, opened the throttle all the way, and had the front wheel come off the ground, I knew I needed some additional skill and riding time. So, I backed off and worked on the skills. But even the fastest bicycles won't put you in a situation like that. In my mind it's apples and oranges (Unbelievable speed with the flick of the wrist vs speed produced by my own body with considerable work). But for the sake of argument, let's say you had the hybrid going down hill at 50 mph and a road bike going down the hill at 50 mph, you're still going 50 mph on a bicycle. Which probably wouldn't be the smartest thing to do as a relatively new rider. So, taking those kinds of risks wouldn't be too smart on either machine. I would, once again, strongly encourage you to find a shop that will let you test ride different styles of bikes (and it needs to be more than just around the block or in the parking lot). There are dealers out there, that with a credit card number as a deposit, will let you take a bike out for long enough to get a real feel for it. Keep in mind, however, that a good fit will either make or break your riding experience on most bicycles. So, spend some time getting the seat height and fore/aft position adjusted before heading out (until you actually buy one, there's not much else that can be easily adjusted).