Bicycle Mechanics - How Closely Do Front And Rear Rims Need To "Match"?

Sorry, here is another slightly stupid question.

I made the mistake of buying one (1) used rim and building it into the rear wheel of this project kid's bike, blithely assuming it would be no problemo to find a matching rim for the front.

Err, no.

So, tell me how "mismatched" front and rear rims can be, before it would bug you to distraction.

The rear is an old NOS Matrix Mountain rim, 26" (559mm), just 20mm wide at the braking surface, silver, 36 hole. It is for a kid-sized road bike - the 559mm size fits the little frame and will take a nice narrow tire (I bought 26" x 1.25" road tread tires).

The closest I can find is a Sun Ringle CR-18 in 26" (559mm), also silver and 36 hole, but a bit wider at 22mm wide, and not identical in cross-section, though pretty close. I'll remove the stickers from both rims. I can use a buffing wheel to polish both rims to make the texture/polish level look pretty similar.

I'm thinking this will be good enough, and preferable to hunting for months for a matching Matrix Mountain rim.

You agree? Or have you built bikes with mismatched rims and regretted it?

(I know, this is an aesthetic point. Maybe I'm being way too superficial.)

Here's a chart for "typical":

1. Put the slighty wider on the rear.
2. Put the slightly deeper on the rear.
3. Put the slightly heavier on the rear.
4. Put the ONLY one with eyelets on the rear.
5. Put the ONLY one with double-walls on the rear.
6. $ n++;

...I think you get the picture...

=8-)

Look around more, there are lots of 559-17 and 559-18 rims out there to choose from....do some more searching.

=8-)

So, tell me how "mismatched" front and rear rims can be, before it would bug you to distraction.


Either they match, or they don't. There is no in between. Many of my bikes have/have had mismatch stuff. When I can afford it I'll put on matching stuff. Until then, ehhh.

I wouldn't sweat not having the rims match on a kid's bike. If the kid in question is like most, they may give you a reason to do another rim swap in the not too distant future anyway. (They seem to be attracted to "wheel bender" racks, mistimed curbs etc). Keep in mind I come from a "if it works for me I really don't care what it looks like" camp - there are others who are much more interested in aesthetics.

the simple answer for me is, the match must be exact. i can go with mismatched components, maybe even cranks and tires and hubs for sure, but NO mismatched rims. i had a set of wheels made once and even though the mavic rims had the same model number on them they were different model years and design. i made the builder take one back and redo it (he made a face :notamused:) . it is very, very rare for me to return something.

http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSMIh2rgzZ-6UFd407FBQXQaS4JzUh2lzlrean7ug_5Cnvb8dd3

http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQEZ8jpvD4r46IQ_e-KbwrqTs82NBPOWLRTMraJXdAhNiX0Bl8Hrg

http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRraPIMkhO7JdruFpiAJtleJdZaOZAlyh9de_ybRBE1_xJHACxy

They don't need to match at all, at least for the pros.

They don't need to match at all, at least for the pros.

Better to be way different and accentuate the difference so it looks like it was intentional, than to be a little different and make it look like a kludge.

If they are the same size and they roll what possible difference can it make except looks. I would like to read a note from anyone that has a logical mechanical reason.

There has got to be something more important to fret over than whether the rims on a kid's bike match exactly or not. Functionally, no one, not you and not the kid, will notice any difference and it will take a micrometer to tell them apart. If you want to go to the trouble to make them cosmetically look the same, have at it but I think it's a waste of time.

Don't over-analyze this, just put the wheels on the bike and let the kid ride. Terry make bicycles with totally different-sized wheels front and rear and nobody blinks an eye http://www.amazon.com/Terry-Bicycles-Symmetry-Womens/dp/B005RBBLI2
Spend the time and effort getting it set up perfectly and let it go.

Tony Martin even rode a bike with a tubular rear rim and clincher front during the TT world championships last year, and took the victory. I'm sure roadies everywhere were SHOCKED! So mismatch those rims all you want.

Just don't do the 26'' front and 700c rear. That's tacky.

Tony Martin even rode a bike with a tubular rear rim and clincher front during the TT world championships last year, and took the victory. I'm sure roadies everywhere were SHOCKED! So mismatch those rims all you want.

Just don't do the 26'' front and 700c rear. That's tacky.

What about 24"/700?

http://brad.sweat365.com/files/2007/07/shogun1-med.jpg

But this is extreme mismatching:

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee42/Reynolds51/Fatwheel.jpg

But this is extreme mismatching:
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee42/Reynolds51/Fatwheel.jpg

Dannngggg... and I thought my bike was bad:

http://home.comcast.net/%7Ejeff_wills/jeff-big.jpg

That looks fine but can you imagine if the fatty was in the front - aesthetic dissonance!

That looks fine but can you imagine if the fatty was in the front - aesthetic dissonance!

Tell that to all the penny farthing riders out there :P

Spray paint them both the same color and you'll soon forget they don't match.

The truth of the matter is it really doesn't matter. Especially if your talking 20-22mm rims with 31.75mm (1.25") tires.

It's a kid's bike.

You and some of the other posters are WAAAYYYYY overthinking this. It's a 2 mm difference which won't mean diddly.

As for removing the stickers and polishing the rims? Go back and read the first line above again..... Besides, if the rims are anodized and you rip that away the exposed alumiunium is simply going to corrode sooner. So just stick the wheel on, call it good and let him/her go ride to exhaustion.

Yeah, I've come to my senses. Going to Universal Cycle tommorrow, buying the Sun CR-18 rim with the 2mm excess width, buying a handlebar that doesn't require reaming the stem, buying everything else I need (chainrings, derailleurs, cable, pads, seat clamp), and getting the wheel built and the bike up and running ASAP.

I'm dragging this out too long and he's growing all the while.

Here's the frame we're talking about, BTW.

http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy282/jylmks/cbbad48c.jpg

Other than Peer pressure, just need to accommodate the right tire..

Ibis made a great Mountain bike in the 90's 24" rear 26" front wheel..
new stuff, a 29" front, 24" rear would be cool..

new stuff, a 29" front, 24" rear would be cool..
Don't know about 29/24 but there have been a few 29/26 MTBs made.

http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy282/jylmks/cbbad48c.jpg

Holy crap that is a beautiful frameset! Post some pics of the complete bike when you finish her, will ya?

the 24/26 Ibis, was a Mountain Trials bike, smaller wheel , shorter chainstays . stronger rear wheel.

I believe that bike came with 27 inch wheels, at least the one I had that was identical in size did.

Just double checked the catalogs, in the USA, a 1974 UJ10 came with 27 inch wheels. Perhaps yours is a different model, or from a different era. None of them took modern MTB wheel size (to my knowledge).