Classic & Vintage - 1960's Raleigh "Rough"storation (w/ Pics)

Hello Folks,
The wife of a dear friend was checking out my Black Lighting the other day> She was talking about her old bike that she rode her whole life. I was curious, so I asked to see the bike in question. She pulled out this 1960's Raleigh. Her parents bought this new 50 years ago. Of course, I was intrigued. I offered to tune it up for her. This is what I brought home....
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics408.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics410.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics411.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics415.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics416.jpg

I've had a chance to spend some time with the bike. I cleaned the handle bars with the 000 steel wool and some silicone based cleaner on the grips.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics424.jpg

I'm having trouble with one of the crank cotter pins. It is frozen in place. I am reluctant to use my gangster/mafia/thug techniques to remove the pin (any tips would be nice). Underneath the nasty chain cover hides a cool crank that has been hidden from view for decades.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics419.jpg
I cleaned off a section to test it's finish. After finding this, I will not be reinstalling the chain guard. It will be packaged in a box for some Raleigh freak who loves punishment to enjoy.

Just a tune up? ;) Edit; Ah,,you added more pictures.

From the sixties? Could it be earlier? I'm curious of the date on the hub.

The hub is a Sturmey Archer AW 51 ( I would provide more pics but this hub photographs like Amy Winehouse). It needs a bit of rehab.
http://scrapetv.com/News/News%20Pages/Entertainment/images-10/amy-winehouse-meth.jpg
I think I have a pic of the serial number on the bike.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics421.jpg

I would keep the chain case intact... Heron cranks are lovely but are not rare or uncommon while the full chain case is something one does not see on export models very often.

They also doa wonderful job of keeping everything clean, including your wife.

That hole in the downtube lug, is there a similar hole on the other side? It seems like it was a mounting hole for a rear rod brake.

The finish on that chaincase may be shot, but is the steel deformed? It may need only some oven enamel to bring it back to its glory. You might also have to mess around with the spacers in the rear to properly bring down any noises.

Did the original owner have the original fenders? A Raleigh looks really weird with a chaincase but no fenders, putting the cart before the horse.

The down tube lug has another hole on the other side. The goal of this build is to get the bike ride able, while replacing as few parts as possible. The brake pads and cables will be new. If I remove the chain guard, it will be preserved with all of the hardware. So far, the crank pin has won the battle. The original/current owner rode the fenders off this bike.

That's a 1951 Raleigh Dawn converted to cable brakes. In addition to the downtube lug hole, the replacement bar and stem are also indicative of a rod brake system since removed.

Mastering the adjustment of a Raleigh chaincase is not difficult. I could understand its removal if it were damaged beyond repair, but it isn't (not only that, it's complete) - and you'll spend more time and effort removing it than readjusting it properly.

If you so consider removing an intact chaincase such as this as a form of "repair," you're only negating your legitimacy as a skilled mechanic. We already have too many slap-dash LBS mechanics who follow this improper philosophy, B.S.ing customers into believing that chaincases and other such items are doomed to fail and unfixable - when the real problem lies in mechanics that don't know jack about how to fix such equipment properly (hence, they seek said scapegoat).

-Kurt

Those old Raleighs are nice. You only need to pour motor oil in the holes and air up the tires in many cases. Copper wool is a bit more gentle that the steel wool and won't scratch the chrome.

The cotters are removed with a cotter press. The bottom bracket requires special tools also. In fact, all the bolts are an unusual size. Not metric or fractional.

That's a 1951 Raleigh Dawn converted to cable brakes. In addition to the downtube lug hole, the replacement bar and stem are also indicative of a rod brake system since removed.

Mastering the adjustment of a Raleigh chaincase is not difficult. I could understand its removal if it were damaged beyond repair, but it isn't (not only that, it's complete) - and you'll spend more time and effort removing it than readjusting it properly.

If you so consider removing an intact chaincase such as this as a form of "repair," you're only negating your legitimacy as a skilled mechanic. We already have too many slap-dash LBS mechanics who follow this improper philosophy, B.S.ing customers into believing that chaincases and other such items are doomed to fail and unfixable - when the real problem lies in mechanics that don't know jack about how to fix such equipment properly (hence, they seek said scapegoat).

-Kurt

Thanks for the info Kurt, I was wondering about this bikes origins. I'm not sure how to take your last comments about removing the chain case. It's obvious that you feel this is wrong. But there is no need to consider me a lesser mechanic because I don't see the beauty in it. For the record, I'm not an accomplished bike tech. I'm just a cyclist that loves to tinker on bikes. Most of what I've learned has been gleaned from this forum or learned the hard way. I post threads about the bikes I'm working on to get more information, not to flex my "skills".
The original goal was to pop it off to service the BB, however, it's taking a little more time to get that done. After creating so much controversy, the chain cases fate will be decided by the owner of the bike, not me.

Thanks for the info Kurt, I was wondering about this bikes origins. I'm not sure how to take your last comments about removing the chain case. It's obvious that you feel this is wrong. But there is no need to consider me a lesser mechanic because I don't see the beauty in it. For the record, I'm not an accomplished bike tech. I'm just a cyclist that loves to tinker on bikes. Most of what I've learned has been gleaned from this forum or learned the hard way. I post threads about the bikes I'm working on to get more information, not to flex my "skills".
The original goal was to pop it off to service the BB, however, it's taking a little more time to get that done. After creating so much controversy, the chain cases fate will be decided by the owner of the bike, not me.

Please, don't take it personally - I was hoping that the comment may entice you to take on the chaincase just to spite me ;) . That, and I've seen so many people get fed false information about chaincases, rod brakes, and similar iconic componentry from local shops that I'm a bit sensitive to their removal - especially when they're mechanically intact.

That aside, chaincase adjustment is quite easy. Though the front bolt behind the chainwheel is fixed, the two screws that fix the clamp on the chainstay allow you to rotate the chaincase slightly, allowing you to adjust its clearance with the crankarm. Removal is simply a matter of pulling the rear plates out, and pulling the rear screws and front bolt (after the crankset is removed, of course).

Though I do recommend removal of the chaincase so you can clean behind it, removal of a Raleigh fixed cup is not fun in the least bit, especially on an older machine. I'd highly suggest cleaning the bearing surfaces with your fingers and a rag run through the opposite side of the BB shell, and greasing it up the same way. Use a heavy grease such as Mobile 1 Synthetic to hold the loose bearings in place. Even with a workstand, you'll probably need to angle the bike on its side for ease of dropping the bearings in. I've sometimes slid them through the fixed cup's spindle hole too. Whatever works.

Best of luck.

-Kurt

No problem Kurt. I respect everything you say about bike repair. I get the same way about guitars and motorcycles.:)
I will be taking your advice on the BB process, however, I have to get through the pesky task of removing a stubborn crank cotter pin first. Having never used or even seen a cotter press, this is what I've come up with...

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics426.jpg

The socket is there to allow the pin to push through the crank arm. I also have a liberal amount of PB blaster soaking it down. I left it preloaded to see if the pin will change it's mind.
In the mean time, I pulled down the front end for a thorough cleaning. The balls need to be replaced.
Before.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics423.jpg

After.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics425.jpg

I have zero plans to paint anything on this bike. Is there a good way to bring a little bit of the original shine out of this paint? Also, What do I do about this rusty chain case? It will be removed for cleaning, but I will be reinstalling it after all of the mechanical stuff is sorted. I figured, Kurt's right, and besides, Mrs. Girdy kept it on the bike this long....
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics410.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics426.jpg

This is good. Good photo, and you clearly have the right idea of the technique. It might work better if you put a spacer of some kind between the c-clamp and the threaded end of the cotter so less of the c-clamp's thread is extended; the more thread is out of the c-clamp, the more the bolt will flex, and that flex can cause problems. Other than that, you're doing great. Sometimes, by the way, after you have all the bits in place and you've cranked down on the c-clamp as far as you're comfortable cranking, nothing happens; at this point a gentle tap with a hammer may be all it takes to pop that cotter loose. That is, you hammer on the c-clamp at the top of your photo. Good luck!

A rub down with Meguires paint cleaner or scratch-X will bring back some of the life in the paint.

One trick I've found with the C clamp technique, if you torque it down and it still doesn't come, is to tap it with a hammer. Get a lot of torque on it and then just give it a light tap, not a big hit.
The headset looks great. I love polishing old Raleighs, they reward an honest effort.

Well Sunday had it's ups and downs. I was able to get some work done but the damned crank cotter won't let go.

I did get some work done on the handlebar/stem unit. One grip needs some attention.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics433.jpg

I found a lizard skeleton in the chain case today. When I dumped it out of the back, the master link circlip came with it. I found the master link and removed it. I could only imagine what a PITA this would have been if the chain came apart while riding.
I spent some time on the wheels today. They're in really rough shape. I can't replace them so I'm considering an acid bath. I've never worked with it, but I'll read up before I do anything.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics431.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics432.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics429.jpg

Removing the rear wheel finally exposed the infamous chain case.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics438.jpg

You can't UNSEE what you have seen. So I will leave you with a sliver of eye candy...


http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics355.jpg

Hit the frame with some Meguiars Scratch X or KIT Scratch out. It'll come out shining better than that million-dollar iPhone on wheels.

-Kurt

A more period correct piece of eye candy..
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_hW3gsfulrDU/SlXUqZsa-II/AAAAAAAAA-k/HTrBb6BrkEY/s1600/MV%2520in%2520da%2520house%2520010.jpg

Speaking of flat trackers, The husband of the woman who owns this bike is an accomplished flat tracker from the 60-70's. I met him late in the restoration phase of his 1968 Suzuki A100 Flat Track bike. I helped with some final assembly and was the test rider once it was running. I was the first person to ride this bike in 30 years.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics332.jpg

http://assets0.ordienetworks.com/images/GifGuide/clapping/citizen_cane.gif

SUCCESS!!! I finally won the battle with the pesky cotter pin. I left the pin preloaded in my makeshift press and added a little bit of heat from a propane torch and CRACK! The pin let go. I pulled the crank and took a picture of victory..
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics441.jpg

Here is why I wanted to pull the chain case in the first place.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics442.jpg

The BB needs attention anyway. I took Kurt's advice on BB dis assembly and pulled everything out from the LH side. I snapped a pic of the error I made in this task. I should've reinstalled a nut onto the cotter threads before adding power. Check out the damage to the threads.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics443.jpg

I know, terrible pic, I'm not a great photographer either.

All the more reason to get some good replacement cotters from Mark Stonich (BikeSmith Design). You'll be glad you did.

Be sure to use your improvised press to seat the new cotters too - I highly recommend it.

-Kurt

Cool project. Nice work on the bars/grips & congrats on the cotter pin removal. There are few C&V delights comparable to unsticking a stuck part. Btw, don't throw that cotter pin away. You may be able to salvage it. If not, it may prove useful in matching the cotter face angle should you need to file a new cotter pin.

Now that you have the chaincase removed, you may consider dropping it in a weak concentration of Oxalic Acid (avail at paint stores such as Sherman Williams, or sold as wood bleach in many hardware stores), followed by Meguiar's Scratch X as suggested above to bring the pain back to life.

If you don't want to shell out $50+ for the bikesmith cotter press, I found success with a vise and a socket (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/805100-Bench-vise-socket-cotter-press?highlight=).

You'll be replacing the chain, right?

I'm off from work today. Now that I have over come this delay in the teardown phase, I can move forward with cleaning up the frame. I have been considering the Oxy bath method. I've never done it, but I've read a lot about it on the forums. I will be donating a chain to this project. The parts list so far looks like chain, cables, tubes, ball bearings, and a couple of screws that I had to cut while removing the brake levers. Does anyone know what size ball bearings this bike uses? I'm going to do the steering stem, BB, and both wheels. I would look it up but i'm ready to get out in the garage.

Nice work. I had a month long battle with a cotter pin on a 1966 Raleigh (possibly a Superbe - it had a Dynohub on the front wheel and the lamp bracket, but maybe that was added later? it was blue with white highlights, very battered up). I eventually drilled it out and bashed it out with a hammer. I wish I'd tried your clamp and socket method first though!

Looking forward to seeing the end of this. It amazes me how, underneath all the dirt and grime and surface rust, a lot of these 40-50 year old bikes have parts that still look like new.

We made progress today. I'm happy to say that the Scratch x worked out better than expected. I had a nice day in the driveway rubbing on this beauty queen. Of course, the rust is still there but the frame came out decent...

Before
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics446.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics448.jpg

During. I took this pic to show the dramatic difference Scratch x makes. Here I was testing the product on the bottom of the chainstay.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics449.jpg

After 4 beers...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics451.jpg

You can see that the sun has crept up to the edge of the garage. Time to move this project into the shade.
There is still plenty of rubbing left to do. I was wondering what you guys think about the steering stem/ headbadge. My first instinct is to polish the paint around the badge and leave it alone. I don't want to loose what color is left on the badge.

The fork joins the party
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics452.jpg

Cant wait to see the end result !

She's moving in a very encouraging direction. I'd have to say nice work! I know I've commented on this before, but you have THE BEST avatar on the forums. :)

I've been screwing around in the garage this week. I'm cleaning up individual components with varying success. I was able to swing by my LBS and pick up some critical stem and BB bearings today.
Here is the BB shaft ready for install.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics453.jpg

NEW BALLS!
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics454.jpg

Final assembly
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics456.jpg
She turns smooth as butter.

Next came the steering stem. I assembled it upside down. This is the lower cup with fresh bearings and grease.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics455.jpg
My hands were to greasy for a "mid-stroke pic" but you get the idea.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics457.jpg

I found some oxalic acid today at my local ACE hardware. I'll be learning the ropes this week.

It's pretty unusual to see that much of the human form on BF.

The project is coming along fantastic. I guess it's late to mention it but the seat tube is hollow all the way to the bottom bracket bearings and there is a removable shield inside the BB shell.

I overlooked cleaning out the seat tube on an older machine and went back to find an entire civilization living in the bottom of the seat tube.

Shouldn't there only be 24 balls in a raleigh headset? Or am I recalling wrong?

Shouldn't there only be 24 balls in a raleigh headset? Or am I recalling wrong?

Good question Mos. I'm not really sure. Most of the original balls were desentegrated or ejected out of the stem during disassembly. (Now you see why I post these threads, so you guys can check my work). Lets ask the experts. 24 or 25 balls? At this point, it won't be to painfull to correct this mistake.

Very nice work. Thanks for posting this beautiful bike. I like the other pic, but it's not the sort of thing I should be looking at during my break at work.

4 beers ? Looks like a 6 pack worth of work to me. Great job ! C Clamp works great for that , just did 2 on my Raleigh Grand Prix, same exact method .

Well I pulled the stem down to double check my work. The top had 24 balls so I pulled 1 ball out of the bottom and reassembled. My inner feeling is that 24 is the correct number. Thanks for calling me on it.
Gravity, I keep my local booze depot in business while I work on bikes. For better or worse, that's just the way I do it.
I found the perfect container to hold the Oxy while soaking the chain case. I think I'll throw a few other parts in the mix to soak while the chain case gets some love. In the mean time, I have to figure out how much water it will take to submerge the case and mix the acid accordingly. I guess I should clean the case as much as possible before turning it loose on the acid.

Might try vinegar first, to get the worst of it off .

The Raleigh has been patient while I screw around cleaning sub-assembly's and figure out this acid thing.
Rear brakes, I know, not the correct pads.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics459.jpg

Front hub components (the best bearings in the bike so far) Also, a pic of the pedals. The left pedal is as clean as I can get it and the internals are clean and regreased. The right pedal is how they both looked. If anyone knows how to remove the rubber for cleaning, please speak up.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics458.jpg

My current batch of crap in the oxy.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics460.jpg

Some other parts and pieces.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics461.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics463.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics462.jpg

To clean the pedals you need to take the cap of the end, then you remove the nuts where they go through the rubber. You should be able to pull off the end caps at that point and disassemble the rest of the pedal and reassemble it. Below are what mine looked like before and after they have been disassembled and cleaned.

BTW, thanks for the pic!! I should have known that she was wearing French heel hose. :p

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7028/6616774523_3d44d876a9_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/threefamilyalbum/6616774523/)
Pedals - Before and After - 1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/threefamilyalbum/6616774523/) by Sallad Rialb (http://www.flickr.com/people/threefamilyalbum/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7149/6616777557_21a797c701_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/threefamilyalbum/6616777557/)
Pedals - Before and After - 2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/threefamilyalbum/6616777557/) by Sallad Rialb (http://www.flickr.com/people/threefamilyalbum/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7159/6616780551_7a1512192d_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/threefamilyalbum/6616780551/)
Pedals - Before and After - 3 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/threefamilyalbum/6616780551/) by Sallad Rialb (http://www.flickr.com/people/threefamilyalbum/), on Flickr

Can't believe what you are doing. My sweetheart is coming back to life.

Can't believe what you are doing. My sweetheart is coming back to life.

Please allow me to introduce Mrs. Girdy, she owns the Raleigh.
I snapped some pics today before going to visit Mr. Ted and Mrs. Girdy. These are the most up to date shots so far. Sorry for the cell phone pics.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics470.jpg

Here is my take on the OA bath. I can use about a gallon of solution with this setup, however, I have to rotate the rim once a day. You can see the difference from one side to the other.

The front wheel has been through this process and the hub had been cleaned and regreased.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics469.jpg

Here is a shot of the bike as it sits today.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics468.jpg

While visiting Mr. Ted, I helped him with a true C&V bike. He has a beautiful 1954 Ariel Square Four, the same year as the Raleigh.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics300.jpg

We changed the head gasket, so I snapped some shots of the inside of a motor you will never see.
Manifold and valve covers removed.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics464.jpg

Head gasket surfaces prepped and ready.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics465.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics466.jpg
What we came to do...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics467.jpg

photogravity

She's moving in a very encouraging direction. I'd have to say nice work! I know I've commented on this before, but you have THE BEST avatar on the forums.




It's pretty unusual to see that much of the human form on BF.

My avatar got pulled guys. Sorry. Now it's just me looking back at YOU.

My avatar got pulled guys. Sorry. Now it's just me looking back at YOU.

Bummer. :( As you had the best avatar EVER, I'm slightly disappointed. :cry:

Well it got hot here in Florida and my garage moral has been low. Despite the baking temps, I've been able to make slow progress on the Raleigh. The bike is now ride-able and nearly complete. I've been cruising around the block and tightening/adjusting stuff today.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics477.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics478.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics479.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics481.jpg

To commemorate the speed of this build, I took this photo yesterday after a storm....
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics476.jpg

Sorry if I'm bumping a dead thread here, but I have wheels that are surprisingly true but about as rusty as the ones that were on this bike. Now that I see there is hope for them I was wondering if you could give me a rundown on the process.
Thanks.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics470.jpg

This pic pretty much sums up my wheel program. I clamped a trash bag in a plastic bin to minimize the amount of solution needed to soak a round wheel. This method was good for me because it was my first time using OA and the rear hub could not be submerged. I was able to soak 6-9 inches of rim per day, so the process was a bit drawn out. After soaking a section, I blasted it with water, blew it off with compressed air and wiped/polished the section.
Doing one section at a time let me refine my water/OA ratio and taught me to change the solution every 1-2 dips as the acid would lose it's effectiveness.
I encourage you to search this subject before trying it. My experience is minimal compared to the others in this forum.

Don't forget, if the rims are that bad, the bearings probably need attention.

Great bike and thanks for the detailed thread! The pics make it look like you just soaked the brakes and rims (with spokes installed) in the oxalic acid bath without dis-assembling them. Is that what you did? Do you expect these moving/threaded parts to hold up without overhaul and grease/lubricant?

Good question RBG. The spoke nipples needed some lubrication before I could do the final truing of the wheel. The front brake calipers were soaked "mostly" assembled. I found the aluminum spacers to be brittle once reassembled. Luckily, I had some spares to correct my mistake. To answer your question, I do expect these parts to hold up, but they need some love after soaking them in OA.

Hey, your friends bike is looking good. Just get a big fan and get some air moving in your shop space :)

Aren't those stainless steel rims? I had an older Rudge with those rims and I found they were 400 series stainless steel. I had no idea OA would work on SS.

Hey, your friends bike is looking good. Just get a big fan and get some air moving in your shop space :)

Aren't those stainless steel rims? I had an older Rudge with those rims and I found they were 400 series stainless steel. I had no idea OA would work on SS.

Thanks for the encouragement FT. I'm pretty much done with this bike for now. I've been fighting myself away from putting that POS basket back on. Mrs. Girdy says she has to have a basket but the one it came with is so ugly, I'm having trouble bolting it back on.

I didn't see the second half of your post until I quoted it. I'm not sure if the rims are stainless or not. I can say that they were rusty as hell and the OA helped the situation.

I've been a little distracted. I "borrowed" this from my shop for the long weekend....
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics486.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/SUPAFAST213/jasonsmobilepics485.jpg