Classic & Vintage - 197x motobecane Grand Record Find, and Rebuild

Continued from http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/813123-Motobecane-Grand-Record-queations

Well I picked it up, nuvo record fd and rd, as well as a pristine campy cabe guide, and nuvo record shifters, pivo bars and stem, as well as wiemann brakes and levers.


I have a normandy hub wheelset to finish it out, with RIGIDalu rims. Thoughts on the quality of such a set?
Also this will get a nuvo record seatpost once I get a carbon one for my Bianchi.

Pics are coming, but in the meantime I have a couple questions.

Will the TA cranks be french threaded? The pedals that came with the frame and rusted and beyond use.

Also how hard will it to find some cheaper but usable hoods for the brake levers? Cheaper meaning not more than a new set of brake levers.

Pics:
247456247453247448247444247454247449247445247455247451247447247443

If you're talking about the high flange Normandy hubs that were pretty stock on a good many French bikes, they are pretty decent. Overhaul and if they are not pitted, use them. I'm not sure what you mean by normandy hubs and then rigidalu hubs. Rigida rims were pretty common on French bikes and some were pretty decent. Again if the hubs aren't pitted and the wheels run reasonably true, you have a serviceable wheel set for your bike. It is not the cranks that are french threaded (or english) but the BB. Old French cranks need a different kind of crank puller so you want to make sure you get the right one. But if the BB is in reasonable shape, I'd just repack the BB and ride it.

If you're talking about the high flange Normandy hubs that were pretty stock on a good many French bikes, they are pretty decent. Overhaul and if they are not pitted, use them. I'm not sure what you mean by normandy hubs and then rigidalu hubs. Rigida rims were pretty common on French bikes and some were pretty decent. Again if the hubs aren't pitted and the wheels run reasonably true, you have a serviceable wheel set for your bike. It is not the cranks that are french threaded (or english) but the BB. Old French cranks need a different kind of crank puller so you wa nt to make sure you get the right one. But if the BB is in reasonable shape, I'd just repack the BB and ride it.

Could also have french threads for pedals. These can be tapped to 9/16 at a good bike shop.

Can't tell what year your GR is from that tiny pic...but if it's around '74 it would have a TA 3-arm crank, this one looks like it could be a 6-arm cyclotouriste.More pics, please.
Rigida rims tend to be a little softer than others from the same era, but if they're laced to decent hubs I'd just use them and try to avoid curb-hopping and pot-holes.
Chances are that your Bianchi seatpost will not fit this metric-tubed Frenchie...the GR usually takes a 26.6 or 26.4. Stock post was not NR Campy even tho it came stock with Campy RD and FD...and Weinmann CP brakes.

I picked up a GR this weekend too. Mine was not $50 but a reasonable price, esp for a bike that actually was on my modest want list.

Don't know about the date of mine, either...but for the Pat 74 on the RD.

It's been well used over the years and is quite dirty, and I am really looking forward to cleaning and polishing it up. Yes, I really know how to party.

Pics up... any insight greatey appreciated.

pics of hubs/ wheels. The QR is mallard, hubs are Normandy 247458247459247460

I'd try a $10 set of Cane Creek brake lever hoods for non-aero levers. They only come in brown and black, but they'd look really nice.

I am fine with black they will match the accents anyway.

Did these bikes originally come with Campy cable guides? Only one on the top tube is Campy, so I am curious.

Also I have never worked on anything quite this old. The RD seems to flip around a bit front and back. Is there supposed to be a spring mech somewhere around the frame bolt, or does chain and cable tension solve this problem?

Those could be useful wheels. The hubs are Normandy high flange; they came stock on many French bikes and they're pretty decent hubs. If the cups and cones aren't pitted, I'd throw in some new bearings and ride them. The rims are rigida; they're pretty decent. Shoot some WD 40 around the spoke nipples and rim grommets (after you remove the the tire, tube, and rim strip). There is some rust there and you want the nipples to be able to turn freely so you can true the wheel.

well those pics help some: given the 531 decal (3 main tubes are 531) and the head badge decal, I'd say it probably is pre-'74...so '73 could be right.
you can probably use the standard DiaCompe hoods on those levers, and they are pretty easy to find in several colors. I am not sure what cable clips would be stock on a '73, use whatever you have.
Looks like it just need 'the usual' cleaning, repacking and etc.
based on my '74 GR, I predict you will be very pleased with the ride!

I just noticed in the 1975 and 76 catalogs (thanks velobase) that in 75 the GR is spec'd with 531 frame and fork, while the two higher models, Le Champion and Team Champion, have 531 'throughout.' In 76 the GR also had 531 throughout though the listed weight is still 23 lbs. So that '3 main tubes' decal is a distinct marker.

I think it's time for a 'show your GR' thread as there is not one in the archives.

I am fine with black they will match the accents anyway.

Did these bikes originally come with Campy cable guides? Only one on the top tube is Campy, so I am curious.

Also I have never worked on anything quite this old. The RD seems to flip around a bit front and back. Is there supposed to be a spring mech somewhere around the frame bolt, or does chain and cable tension solve this problem?

Frome the ones I have seen most French bikes of this era had huret cable guides, but a lot have been replaced with campy in later years because the original hurets just weren't available.

I gave some pedals much worse off than those an Oxalic Acid soak and they came out looking pristine. Try it before you go on the hunt for new pedals.

I just noticed in the 1975 and 76 catalogs (thanks velobase) that in 75 the GR is spec'd with 531 frame and fork, while the two higher models, Le Champion and Team Champion, have 531 'throughout.' In 76 the GR also had 531 throughout though the listed weight is still 23 lbs. So that '3 main tubes' decal is a distinct marker.

I think it's time for a 'show your GR' thread as there is not one in the archives.

So I guess the thought is 1975 then? The 5 arm rather than 3 arm cranks hinted something later to me as well. Just found an ebay seller who sells the replica TA decals!


I gave some pedals much worse off than those an Oxalic Acid soak and they came out looking pristine. Try it before you go on the hunt for new pedals.

Downside of the pedals is that they are also bent to the point where they will no rotate without digging into the cranks. I can reshape and clean them, but I was hoping to put some form of clipless pedal on it, that still retains the platform chrome look.
Such as these,http://www.modernbike.com/itemgroup.asp?igpk=2126175332&TID=367, but would be cool if I could find something even closer and not Japanese (although I have no hate for shimano, one can understand the sentiment)

Ohh the GR appears to have the original Weinmann brake pads with nearly no where. Looks like it spent more years in storage than miles ridden.

Ohh the GR appears to have the original Weinmann brake pads with nearly no where. Looks like it spent more years in storage than miles ridden.

I think you're right based on the negligible wear on the chain rings and derailleur wheels as well. That's going to clean up nicely. Very nice find.

[edit] p.s. I would give those crank bolt covers and chainring bolts a serious soaking of liquid wrench before trying to remove them. It's very easy to ream out the allen hole on the bolt covers.

I just replaced the derailleur wheels with some off an old 10 speed suntour that was trashed, the originals were in pieces. All the teeth were cracked off and not worn.

There are some spots where bare metal is showing, and the decals are a bit worse for wear in place. Any tips on what to do with bare metal? I was thinking just some clear over the area rather than match the paint.

I just replaced the derailleur wheels with some off an old 10 speed suntour that was trashed, the originals were in pieces. All the teeth were cracked off and not worn.

There are some spots where bare metal is showing, and the decals are a bit worse for wear in place. Any tips on what to do with bare metal? I was thinking just some clear over the area rather than match the paint.

I've had pretty good luck with either mixing Testor's model paint to match, or finding a close enough color in nail polish. You could just do clear, or some people don't bother with it at all and simply give it an occasional good coat of wax.

So I guess the thought is 1975 then? The 5 arm rather than 3 arm cranks hinted something later to me as well. Just found an ebay seller who sells the replica TA decals!


Mine has the 3-arm and is definitely 74 or later going from the RD. The 74 catalog has some other variations including Nitto bars and stem. And apparently the lugs could be Nervex or Prugnat. Mine has the first TA crankset I've owned and I thought something seemed missing--it was the decals! I was just wondering about replacements.

Mine has the 3-arm and is definitely 74 or later going from the RD. The 74 catalog has some other variations including Nitto bars and stem. And apparently the lugs could be Nervex or Prugnat. Mine has the first TA crankset I've owned and I thought something seemed missing--it was the decals! I was just wondering about replacements.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TA-Specialites-crank-arm-decal-on-chrome-foil-/300544726972?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45f9dc97bc

There you go

From what i remember - I purchased a Grand Record in '73 and it had the same crank, TA Cyclotourite, as the OP's. It however had the plastic head badge.

In "74 they went to the TA 3 pin crank.

Prior to "73 they had Stronglight 93 cranks.

I am guessing the bike is a 72-73 Grand Record. Maybe late in the production year of "72 and they were changing to the TA crank. In 72 the bike was available in silver/Black or Yellow/black scheme. The "'73 was the first year of the black/red scheme.