General Cycling Discussion - Help with Buying a Bike!

Hello all!

So I apologize if this is the inappropriate forum but it seemed like the best place to go.

I'm looking to take up commuting via bike to work and just cycling in general. It's only about a 7 mile ride to work so I'd probably be putting in around 100 miles a week total.

One of my friends informed me to look for one with Shimano 105 parts and I found this one on Craigslist, which I assume is an older bike but I wanted to get some input on. I don't have much money at all to put down right now but I could always upgrade, so mainly just want to know if this would be a decent bike to get started with. Obviously I would go test ride it and such first but the seller is a ways away and I wanted to get an idea if it was worthy my time first.

Any input is appeciated.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/bik/2984495646.html

In my personal opinion there are likely better deals to be had. One thing I would suggest doing is finding out if your local municipality holds bicycle auctions. Here is an example (from my neck of the woods) http://www.denvergov.org/denverauctiongallery/auctioncalendar/tabid/429228/default.aspx

I picked up a decent Specialized bike with decent components for $100.00 and replaced the cassette and cables for $60. and the bike is great. I saw a few really nice $1200.00 bikes go for $250-$400. Plus I'm confident that you could find something better on craigslist for around that same price.

In my personal opinion there are likely better deals to be had. One thing I would suggest doing is finding out if your local municipality holds bicycle auctions. Here is an example (from my neck of the woods) http://www.denvergov.org/denverauctiongallery/auctioncalendar/tabid/429228/default.aspx

I picked up a decent Specialized bike with decent components for $100.00 and replaced the cassette and cables for $60. and the bike is great. I saw a few really nice $1200.00 bikes go for $250-$400. Plus I'm confident that you could find something better on craigslist for around that same price.

I know there are tons of places to look for ideas on what to look for in a good used road bike.. but that's also the problem, I'm incredibly overwhelmed!

What are some things I should look for in a sub $500 used bike? Or more specifically, what are some things this bike is lacking on that I should look for better?

From what I can tell the bike in your ad only has a 105 rear derailleur not all 105 components. The front and rear derailleurs are fairly cheap the bulk of the cost of 105 and all other component groups is in the brifters (brake and shifter) and the cranks. For example a 105 crank new sells for around 250.00 and 105 brifters are $340. While a 105 front derailleur is only $50 and a rear derailleur is only $80. So its important to keep in mind that the drivetrain components and the frame are the two major costs of the bike. Now I realize that $180 isn't a high price but I think if your able to wait you can likely find a nice bike with an overall better component group.

I picked up a brand new never been used mountain bike from www.bikesdirect.com for under $400 but the bike's official site sells it for about $800. The bike is sent 90% put together but you will have to do some assembling which isn't hard at all :) Maybe give them a looksie and see if you like anything. So far, I am extremely satisfied with my MTB.

I always try to encourage cyclists to buy new, whenever possible. However, if you must buy used, then the best investment would be an old ten speed road bike from the 80's era.

Also, when purchasing a used aluminum framed bicycle, it would be very important to know its history.

I always try to encourage cyclists to buy new, whenever possible. However, if you must buy used, then the best investment would be an old ten speed road bike from the 80's era.

Also, when purchasing a used aluminum framed bicycle, it would be very important to know its history.

Is there anything new that I can buy for under $500 that's pretty good quality for what I'm looking for?

Is there anything new that I can buy for under $500 that's pretty good quality for what I'm looking for?

Bikes Direct has some good choices in your price range. Check out other online direct sellers.

Bikes Direct has some good choices in your price range. Check out other online direct sellers.

Which of their categories should I be be looking in? Or more specifically, what are the key parts I should be looking at? My friend said 105s but those seem to be $800 at the lowest, which there's no way I can do right now. What's the lowest part I should reasonably go that I won't regret? I keep reading these horrible things about Sora parts.

And.. it's all.. so.. confusing.... Gah!

Above sora is Tiagra and Tiagra is considered to be quite decent and is one step below 105. Tiagra is probably more realistic for your price range.

What bicycle brands are sold in your favorite local bike shop?

Which of their categories should I be be looking in? Or more specifically, what are the key parts I should be looking at? My friend said 105s but those seem to be $800 at the lowest, which there's no way I can do right now. What's the lowest part I should reasonably go that I won't regret? I keep reading these horrible things about Sora parts.

And.. it's all.. so.. confusing.... Gah!

Your just wanting to commute to work correct? and general cycling around town? If yes, consider the "road bike" category or "hybrid category" if you plan to also consider trail or off road riding. I got a mountain bike from there (2012 Gravity Base Camp 2.0) but I plan to ride a lot of rough trails and MTB. I am a newbie though but so far its a great bike!

Hey there GratedWasabi!

These are the two new bikes that I would recommend near that pricepoint:

The Schwinn Sporterra ~ $495
www.schwinnbikes.com/bikes/hybrid/2012-sporterra-sport-mens-14586 (http://www.schwinnbikes.com/bikes/hybrid/2012-sporterra-sport-mens-14586)

The Jamis Coda Sport ~ $560
www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebikes/street/coda/12_codasport_rd.html (http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebikes/street/coda/12_codasport_rd.html)

What bicycle brands are sold in your favorite local bike shop?

Expensive ones! That was the first place I looked and they don't sell a bike under $750. I literally do not have that money to spend.

I'm going to give Craigslist a few days and see if anything particularly interesting comes up, otherwise going Bikedirect.

Thoughts on http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/cafe_latte_x.htm or http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington3_IX.htm?

Or more specifically, what are the best bikes on bikesdirect for $400 or less for my use? Ie.. commuting, long rides with a decent amount of hills, all paved riding.

Yes! The Cafe Latte and the Wellington 3 are both great bikes at their pricepoints.

I would also like to recommend the Diamondback Insight from REI:

The Diamondback Insight ~ $390
www.rei.com/product/826110/diamondback-insight-rs-commuter-bike-special-buy (http://www.rei.com/product/826110/diamondback-insight-rs-commuter-bike-special-buy)

Here is something I believe in and have used ever since I started cycling, try before you buy. Any online ordering has the major flaw of not getting to try first. If you have whenching skills it might not be a problem but if not if you have a problem with the bike you are on your own. Do you have a bottom bracket tool to check the bottom bracket? Do you have a spoke wrench and know how to true wheels? If not looking at a used bike or finding one on sale is a better option. Do you have a Performance store anywhere near you? They have lots of commuter bikes and you can try before you buy. They have several fitness bikes in your price range. http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10052&catalogId=10551&langId=-1&orderBy=4&searchTerm=&facet=&beginIndex=0&pageSize=16&categoryId=400316&metaData=

The problem I have is I don't know enough about what you need to make a reasonable reccomendation. Normally I say get a road bike with Shimano 105 or Apex minimum. For a 7 mile commute a Mountain Bike would work, with SRAM or Shimano shifters. I also agree look to a city auction and even garage sales.

Here is something I believe in and have used ever since I started cycling, try before you buy. Any online ordering has the major flaw of not getting to try first. If you have whenching skills it might not be a problem but if not if you have a problem with the bike you are on your own. Do you have a bottom bracket tool to check the bottom bracket? Do you have a spoke wrench and know how to true wheels? If not looking at a used bike or finding one on sale is a better option. Do you have a Performance store anywhere near you? They have lots of commuter bikes and you can try before you buy. They have several fitness bikes in your price range. http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10052&catalogId=10551&langId=-1&orderBy=4&searchTerm=&facet=&beginIndex=0&pageSize=16&categoryId=400316&metaData=

The problem I have is I don't know enough about what you need to make a reasonable reccomendation. Normally I say get a road bike with Shimano 105 or Apex minimum. For a 7 mile commute a Mountain Bike would work, with SRAM or Shimano shifters. I also agree look to a city auction and even garage sales.

It's an 8 mile commute 5 days a week (or more realistically 3 or 4) but I'm also likely to ride it around quite a bit on my free time. I'd like something that's decent enough for 40-60 mile rides.

Then again, I used to ride a sub-$200 mountain bike on 50 mile rides without much problem.

Everything is so expensive.

This one just popped on Craigslist. Might be able to get him to $350.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/2989276744.html

Thoughts?

*edit* I've read some bad reviews on the FSA Gossamer crankset, which I'd figure is kind of the most important part. Bad piece?

This one just popped on Craigslist. Might be able to get him to $350.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/2989276744.html

Thoughts?


*edit* I've read some bad reviews on the FSA Gossamer crankset, which I'd figure is kind of the most important part. Bad piece?

IMHO that's just way overpriced! I'd be concerned about that fork, too!

Would you buy a pair of shoes if you didn't know your size? Well, bikes come in sizes too. Forget about 105 components or whatever, you only shift now in then. Size affects your comfort, efficiency and performance every single minute that you're on the bike.

If you are buying a new bike from a bike shop it's just like buying shoes. You can pick out a bike in your selected style and price range and depend on the shop to fit you with the right size.

If you're buying a used bike there's usually only one so you have to know what size you need and have the discipline to reject all of the bikes that aren't the right size. Just like buying shoes, regardless of features and price, if it's not the right size, it's not a good deal.

Would you buy a pair of shoes if you didn't know your size? Well, bikes come in sizes too. Forget about 105 components or whatever, you only shift now in then. Size affects your comfort, efficiency and performance every single minute that you're on the bike.

If you are buying a new bike from a bike shop it's just like buying shoes. You can pick out a bike in your selected style and price range and depend on the shop to fit you with the right size.

If you're buying a used bike there's usually only one so you have to know what size you need and have the discipline to reject all of the bikes that aren't the right size. Just like buying shoes, regardless of features and price, if it's not the right size, it's not a good deal.

+1 ^ This is so true! That's the major risk with buying online...

+1 ^ This is so true! That's the major risk with buying online...

Definitely agree. I think I've given up the idea of getting from bikesdirect.

If I could afford it, I'd definitely get from a LBS.. but I simply can't afford it.

Saw this one of Craigslist and emailed him. Says the other components are 105s.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/bik/2989134345.html

I'm worried the size wouldn't be quite right but I'd obviously get to check that and ride it before I bought. Is it worth going to take a look at?

Definitely agree. I think I've given up the idea of getting from bikesdirect.

If I could afford it, I'd definitely get from a LBS.. but I simply can't afford it.

Saw this one of Craigslist and emailed him. Says the other components are 105s.


http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/bik/2989134345.html

I'm worried the size wouldn't be quite right but I'd obviously get to check that and ride it before I bought. Is it worth going to take a look at?

Whenever possible, try to buy new, if buying an aluminum framed bicycle. That way, you're assured many more years of service. IMHO the following recommendations would be more feasible:

The Windsor Wellington 2 ~ $350
www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington2_IX.htm (http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington2_IX.htm)

The Windsor Wellington 3 ~ $400
www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington3_IX.htm (http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington3_IX.htm)

PS.

Upgrading to Tiagra or 105 isn't really that necessary. Sora works just fine...

. If you have whenching skills it might not be a problem but if not if you have a problem with the bike you are on your own. .:eek:

Just in case there's a problem with assembly, you could always watch the following video, as many times as you like:

www.bikesdirect.com/instructionhelp.htm (http://www.bikesdirect.com/instructionhelp.htm)

I always try to encourage cyclists to buy new, whenever possible. However, if you must buy used, then the best investment would be an old ten speed road bike from the 80's era.

Also, when purchasing a used aluminum framed bicycle, it would be very important to know its history.

I have to say I think this advice has merit.

A newbie is more likely to overlook a problem on a used bike, won't know what's cheap to fix vs expensive to fix, and won't have bike specific tools. And they won't know their ideal size or preferred geometry.

An old ten speed should be dirt cheap. They're easier to work on (in general) and require fewer specialty tools.
And they should be just fine for what the OP intends to use it for.

The cost of a used bike, when you rely on a shop to fix any issues that arise, can be far more than a new bike. But you should be able to buy a cheap ten speed in need of cleaning, clean it up, learn the basics of working on bikes, change out stem, seat, and tires to figure out what you like, and ride it for a few months.
And then get the bike you really want, now having a clear idea what that is, and either sell the old bike for the full initial cost plus the cost of replacement parts (maybe even a little extra) or keep it as a backup.

Here's another thought.

Since it's going to be a commute to work bike you'll probably be leaving it somewhere for a good portion of the day. My advice to folks looking for a college campus bike is to get a POS so they won't feel so bad when it gets stolen.

Another advantage of riding a POS is, after you ride it for awhile, you'll have a much better idea of what you really want in your next bike.

Here's another thought.

Since it's going to be a commute to work bike you'll probably be leaving it somewhere for a good portion of the day. My advice to folks looking for a college campus bike is to get a POS so they won't feel so bad when it gets stolen.

Another advantage of riding a POS is, after you ride it for awhile, you'll have a much better idea of what you really want in your next bike.

It is for a work commute and I have inside, completely safe storage for it during the day.

How about this one? http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/3002087849.html

I'm not familiar with the Campagnolo parts. How do they compare to Shimano?

I talked to the guy and I'm pretty sure I could get him to $400 on it.

P.S. Slim, thanks for the messages!! It won't let me respond due to low post count but I read and appreciate the advice!

It is for a work commute and I have inside, completely safe storage for it during the day.

How about this one? http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/3002087849.html

I'm not familiar with the Campagnolo parts. How do they compare to Shimano?

P.S. Slim, thanks for the messages!! It won't let me respond due to low post count but I read and appreciate the advice!

It looks great! Test ride it. If you like it, offer $350, but bring $425. Use your skills to close the deal in your favor!

Good Luck! :thumb:

Ok, that is a really nice bike.

If it is your size that would make a good commuter. If not nothing can make it the right size. How tall are you? Campy stuff is good but campy stuff cost a lot to replace. Different cassettes and everything. Some people like the thumb shifter campys and some don't. But they work well. Univega used to be a well known make haven't heard much about them in quite a while. Go ride it and see.

If it is your size that would make a good commuter. If not nothing can make it the right size. How tall are you? Campy stuff is good but campy stuff cost a lot to replace. Different cassettes and everything. Some people like the thumb shifter campys and some don't. But they work well. Univega used to be a well known make haven't heard much about them in quite a while. Go ride it and see.

I'm a tad over 6' with a 32-in inseam and long arms. I test rode a 59 CM Raleigh Road Bike yesterday and it was pretty much the perfect size, except they had the seat raised a touch too high. I've gone to three shops and they all said I'd fit a 56 to 59 of most frames.

The guy also said he's 6'0 and it fit him perfectly, although there can be any number of reasons why that doesn't necessarily mean I will I think it's a decent indication.

Does the thumb shift mean that's instead of pushing the brake lever? I didn't particularly like the brake lever shifting on the Raleigh I rode, I found it a bit odd (I'm sure I'd get used to it but still.)

I'm going to test ride it tomorrow! I'll let you guys know! I'll try not to be wooed by the fact that it's shiny and mighty purty. Any tips on what to look for besides the test ride and any sort of deformities or rust to the frame or components? I figure those are probably the main things. Fit. Smoothness of shifting and the brakes, overall ride feel. Any non-superficial flaws to the frame or components.

I'm a tad over 6' with a 32-in inseam and long arms. I test rode a 59 CM Raleigh Road Bike yesterday and it was pretty much the perfect size, except they had the seat raised a touch too high. I've gone to three shops and they all said I'd fit a 56 to 59 of most frames.

The guy also said he's 6'0 and it fit him perfectly, although there can be any number of reasons why that doesn't necessarily mean I will I think it's a decent indication.

Does the thumb shift mean that's instead of pushing the brake lever? I didn't particularly like the brake lever shifting on the Raleigh I rode, I found it a bit odd (I'm sure I'd get used to it but still.)

I'm going to test ride it tomorrow! I'll let you guys know! I'll try not to be wooed by the fact that it's shiny and mighty purty. Any tips on what to look for besides the test ride and any sort of deformities or rust to the frame or components? I figure those are probably the main things. Fit. Smoothness of shifting and the brakes, overall ride feel. Any non-superficial flaws to the frame or components.

Make sure the cranks turn smoothly. Make sure it shifts smoothly, well for campy it clicks ito gear rather than pushes so make sure it engages like it should. See how the brakes feel and see if the wheels spin true. I don't know how old it is but I don't see many newer bikes with the quill stem like the on pictured. When I said thumb shifter I meant that little lever on the side of the hoods. With most SRAM and Shimano, except Sora, the levers do all of the work. With that style Campy you simply push the thumb shifter to drom the chain down a gear. On the left it drops from the big ring to the small and the brake lever pushes it up from the small to the big. On the right the little thumb shifter drops the chain down the cassette from the larger cogs to the smaller ones and the brake lever pushes the chain back up to the bigger cogs. Campy is good stuff even if it is harder to find.

As for the quill stem, I have one on my Klein and the only real problem I can see is you have fewer adjustment choices than you have with a threadless fork and stem.

Met the guy up to test ride it. Few things.

1. It's a 2001, last year Univega was in biz I believe (before getting bought by Trek? I think.)
2. Couldn't notice any major flaws besides a couple scratches on the handlebars and the handle bars missing the tube caps.
3. Fit perfectly.

Took it for a ride and the shifting was silky; on most shifts I didn't hear anything, just felt a decrease or increase in pedal pressure. Loved the steel frame; I test rode a brand new $850 Raleigh at a bike shop and felt like I was going to break it and die. Not at all with this bike; I felt in control and like it had no problem handling my weight and strength. It wasn't quite as quick on the takeoff but I'd rather be slightly slower getting to speed than feeling like my bike was going to split in half.

Very comfortable ride, I might raise the seat a touch (he has almost no post showing and I think I'd benefit taking it up an inch or two.)

Oh, and I bought it. Has a wireless computer, two water bottle holders, he had some fancy handle bar arm rest thing I don't really know the benefit of and a Blackburn Air Stik (air pump) that straps neatly onto the frame.

Also, I negotiated him down to only $380 from his original $450.

Considering I was about to order the lowest end Bikesdirect bike for $350 and would have had to buy a pump, computer, mounts, etc.. as well as probably pay to have it assembled, I feel really good about that.

I'll probably take it into my LBS to get them to check it out and do any adjustments that would help.

Overall I think it's clearly the best I was going to do for under $400 and the fact that I like riding it much more than I did the Raleigh is pretty great.

It has clipless pedals on it so I'll need to do something about that; need to research and decide if buying platform pedals or bike shoes is a better option.

Met the guy up to test ride it. Few things.

1. It's a 2001, last year Univega was in biz I believe (before getting bought by Trek? I think.)
2. Couldn't notice any major flaws besides a couple scratches on the handlebars and the handle bars missing the tube caps.
3. Fit perfectly.

Took it for a ride and the shifting was silky; on most shifts I didn't hear anything, just felt a decrease or increase in pedal pressure. Loved the steel frame; I test rode a brand new $850 Raleigh at a bike shop and felt like I was going to break it and die. Not at all with this bike; I felt in control and like it had no problem handling my weight and strength. It wasn't quite as quick on the takeoff but I'd rather be slightly slower getting to speed than feeling like my bike was going to split in half.

Very comfortable ride, I might raise the seat a touch (he has almost no post showing and I think I'd benefit taking it up an inch or two.)

Oh, and I bought it. Has a wireless computer, two water bottle holders, he had some fancy handle bar arm rest thing I don't really know the benefit of and a Blackburn Air Stik (air pump) that straps neatly onto the frame.

Also, I negotiated him down to only $380 from his original $450.

Considering I was about to order the lowest end Bikesdirect bike for $350 and would have had to buy a pump, computer, mounts, etc.. as well as probably pay to have it assembled, I feel really good about that.

I'll probably take it into my LBS to get them to check it out and do any adjustments that would help.

Overall I think it's clearly the best I was going to do for under $400 and the fact that I like riding it much more than I did the Raleigh is pretty great.

It has clipless pedals on it so I'll need to do something about that; need to research and decide if buying platform pedals or bike shoes is a better option.

Like I said my Klein is a 91 and I also love the ride. A good sturdy bike even with a quill stem. Klein was also bought by Trek about 95 I believe. That may well be an upgraded fork and you more than likely will come to love it. It is way above just about anything you could of bought for that price at BD and most Bike shops would be happy to service it. But don't give up on the clipless without giving them a try. But if you are going to use it for commuting it will take at least MTB clipless pedals for use with MTB shoes you can walk easy in. I don't have platform pedals on anything but I do know some people who like them. You are on your way and I hope you enjoy commuting and riding as much as some of the rest of us do.

http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/ff346/Boaz47/Klein4-1.jpg

Full Dura Ace front to rear with dura Ace Hubs and Open Pro rims and DT spokes. Added new saddle, bar tape chain and rear Cassette.

Clean that thing up, polish and some new bar tape and she'll be a real looker! I like your idea of getting your LBS to give it a lookover. If it really shifted well, it was probably treated pretty well and taken care of. Good choice!

Excellent selection, GratedWasabi!

Fit trumps everything else! Since it's made of chromoly and shifts smoothly, that's a sure sign that you're going to truly enjoy this steed for many years to come. Just keep it dry and ride it responsibly.

Hip Hip Hooray!... Hip Hip Hooray!.... For GratedWasabi, and his newly acquired bike! :love: :lol: :speedy: :lol: :love:

PS.

I can quite confidently predict that your Univega will outlast that Wellington from bikesdirect.com...

So, some bad news.

I've since figured out that the front derailleur doesn't work. At all. I tried using videos/tutorials/blah to adjust it but all of those seem to be for Shimano parts and don't match the Campagnolo stuff. It seems to work, just not be adjusted at all properly.

Also, both tires are badly out of true.

So I'm going to take it in for a tune-up.. have to see how much that costs me. :(

So, some bad news.

I've since figured out that the front derailleur doesn't work. At all. I tried using videos/tutorials/blah to adjust it but all of those seem to be for Shimano parts and don't match the Campagnolo stuff. It seems to work, just not be adjusted at all properly.

Also, both tires are badly out of true.

So I'm going to take it in for a tune-up.. have to see how much that costs me. :(

A tune up shouldn't be bad. If it shifts at all it sounds like an adjustment. Truing the wheels should also not be that much.

A tune up shouldn't be bad. If it shifts at all it sounds like an adjustment. Truing the wheels should also not be that much.

Yeah, it works I just can't seem to wrap my mind around adjusting it correctly. I can adjust it so it'll shift to the higher or lower gear but not so it can shift to both.

I'm sure I could also true the tires, but they'll do a much better job than I would, I'm sure, and it probably is good to just take it in anyway to have it looked at.

Yeah, it works I just can't seem to wrap my mind around adjusting it correctly. I can adjust it so it'll shift to the higher or lower gear but not so it can shift to both.

I'm sure I could also true the tires, but they'll do a much better job than I would, I'm sure, and it probably is good to just take it in anyway to have it looked at.

Thus far, it really doesn't sound that bad...

If you can find a bicycle co-op nearby, that would be exactly what you need right now. Otherwise, take the bike to your LBS and just ask for an estimate for a tune up. Perhaps, the verdict won't be that bad.

Just remember, your Univega is a chromoly steel bike, that will most probably last you a lifetime. Whatever amount of cash you spend on that beautiful bike right now, should be considered as an investment towards the future. Whatever amount you spend, it will be far less than driving a car everyday, for a couple of months. In the end, you'll still come out on top.

Why?

Because you independently made the intelligent choice to become a cyclist! :thumb:

Thus far, it really doesn't sound that bad...

If you can find a bicycle co-op nearby, that would be exactly what you need right now. Otherwise, take the bike to your LBS and just ask for an estimate for a tune up. Perhaps, the verdict won't be that bad.

Just remember, your Univega is a chromoly steel bike, that will most probably last you a lifetime. Whatever amount of cash you spend on that beautiful bike right now, should be considered as an investment towards the future. Whatever amount you spend, it will be far less than driving a car everyday, for a couple of months. In the end, you'll still come out on top.

Why?

Because you independently made the intelligent choice to become a cyclist! :thumb:

Yup, definitely not too worried about it. The back derailleur works perfectly and most times I barely even hear it when I switch gears and the front one seems to work fine, it's just not perfectly adjusted.

The LBS does training/demo classes on tuning so I'm going to try and set one up. I'd like to be able to work on it myself, obviously, but I also feel like I'll do that much more successfully if someone experienced with it walks me through the steps; rather than relying on the internet!

I've been out on three long rides with it so far and LOVE IT! Excited that it'll be even better once I true the tires and get the front derailleur working.

Yeah, it works I just can't seem to wrap my mind around adjusting it correctly. I can adjust it so it'll shift to the higher or lower gear but not so it can shift to both.

I'm sure I could also true the tires, but they'll do a much better job than I would, I'm sure, and it probably is good to just take it in anyway to have it looked at.


You need to have someone show you how to true a wheel. It is more than just pulling the wheel in one direction by turning a nipple. Once you have seen it done a time or two it isn't too bad. But most good LBS can true a wheel in a few minutes rather than 30 0r 40 minutes per wheel.

I'm not familiar with the Campagnolo parts. How do they compare to Shimano?

You ask that so inocentally.

So more news..

I took it to my nearby LBS and holy crapola drama.

First, the front derailleur is actually broken. As in needs to be replaced. The good news? Everything else looks good.

Second, I strongly dislike the place I took my bike to. They were rude and clearly overcharging me and when I questioned the price they were indignant. They already have me at two weeks wait to true my tires and replace the derailleur, longer if the shipping is slow they said, so I'm going back tomorrow as soon as they open to take it back and tell them to bugger off.

Third, I contacted the person who sold it to me who has, surprisingly, agreed to pay me back $60 to have the derailleur fixed. The other bike shop a friend recommended to me and that has great reviews will install a derailleur for $15. That leaves me $45 for the derailleur.

How should I go about getting a derailleur and what's the best bet on the Campy side (as I'd like it to match the rest of the components.) It's a 27 speed bike gear set.

So much drama. Not looking forward to getting it back tomorrow, I doubt they've done anything to it as I only signed up for tire truing and having the derailleur replaced and they put that at 2 weeks out.

Sorry you're having such troubles, Wasabi!

Word to the wise...

Whenever you start to get a strange vibe, split immediately! That's especially after you've been given so many indicators...

IMO you should have the bike shop that your friend recommended to true the wheels, as well as install the front derailleur.

Hope things improve for you! :thumb: