General Cycling Discussion - New here....first purchase help, please

Hello all,

I am just getting into "fitness" biking with my g/f and other friends and am looking for a used road bike. The use would be flat, paved park trail riding in 15 and 22 mile increments, keeping a speed of 16-22 mph (so approx 45-60 minutes at a time).

I have been looking at some used bikes listed on Craigslist, and even went and test rode a few at a place that had many used bikes. I really liked a (late-90's model?) C'dale R300 CAD2 and have the guy holding it for me and would like to just go buy it and be happy with it. However, there is a C'dale R600 CAD3 listed for a few $$ less in another listing, and I am wondering how the 2 bikes compare, in general. Is it worth holding out to see the R600 (the seller is not very quick to reply). Both bikes are in the $325-$350 range.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Things like: Years these models were built? Weight? Quality? and any other comparisons that help me differentiate the 2 bikes would be great.


thanks

I would not wait if I found a used bike that I liked.

Good buys on used bikes go very fast.

If you're riding on a flat and paved road surface, then buy a brand new single speed.

www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/thehour.htm (http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/thehour.htm)

If you're riding on a flat and paved road surface, then buy a brand new single speed.

www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/thehour.htm (http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/thehour.htm)

Not know where the OP hails from: What happens 4 weeks after purchase when OP and gf change route and tackle some small hills? Single speed seems a bit risky for a beginning cyclist.

I'm in Tampa FL...not too many hills here, but there are some "inclines"...lol. Not sure I would consider a single speed, but I did look at a 14 spd that was missing a front derailleur and would just be a 7-speed, because even us "flatlanders" use 2 or 3 speeds...getting started, headwinds, or just casual riding.

I have the R300 on hold for a couple days, so as not to miss out on it. I just need to know how those of you that know way more about bikes than I do feel about the 2 choices?

Not know where the OP hails from: What happens 4 weeks after purchase when OP and gf change route and tackle some small hills? Single speed seems a bit risky for a beginning cyclist.

Trust me, he won't be running into those kinda hills in Florida.


I'm in Tampa FL...not too many hills here, but there are some "inclines"...lol. Not sure I would consider a single speed, but I did look at a 14 spd that was missing a front derailleur and would just be a 7-speed, because even us "flatlanders" use 2 or 3 speeds...getting started, headwinds, or just casual riding.

I have the R300 on hold for a couple days, so as not to miss out on it. I just need to know how those of you that know way more about bikes than I do feel about the 2 choices?

I personally, would never buy a used aluminum framed bicycle, if I have an opportunity to buy a completely new bicycle. Living in Florida affords you the unique opportunity to purchase a single speed bike that would serve all of your commuting, recreational, and "fitness" needs. A single speed requires less maintenance and a quality bicycle can be purchased new, at a much lower pricepoint.

* You simply don't need the extra gears when riding in the flats....

Slim you are giving out BAD Advice...

"* You simply don't need the extra gears when riding in the flats...."

Riding on flat roads in high winds requires changes in gears.

Those CAAD3 frame sets are stiff! I don't know about the CAAD2, but I briefly had a C3 and hated it!

Not knowing the years involved here, it's difficult to suggest one over the other, but things to consider beyond fit and color would be component spec and the ease of upgrade. For example, a later model 300 with Ahead style headset/stem would probably give you more options and make for easier mods than an earlier quill stem equipped R600.

In short, I'd say yeah, a look at the 600 is probably worthwhile.

Slim you are giving out BAD Advice...

"* You simply don't need the extra gears when riding in the flats...."

Riding on flat roads in high winds requires changes in gears.


It's not bad advice, because most days in Florida don't have high winds...

It's not bad advice, because most days in Florida don't have high winds...

nah, no HURRICANES or thunderstorms or anyhing like that here on the Gulf Coast of Florida! lol

But seriously, we do get a noticeable wind all spring and summer long here. I'm an inline skater, and turning into the wind creates a noticeable difference.

The R600 is a 60cm frame and just a little too tall, so I bought the R300 last night. I'm looking forward to getting it on the trail this weekend and see how it feels and performs while on it for an extended time.

nah, no HURRICANES or thunderstorms or anyhing like that here on the Gulf Coast of Florida! lol

But seriously, we do get a noticeable wind all spring and summer long here. I'm an inline skater, and turning into the wind creates a noticeable difference.

The R600 is a 60cm frame and just a little too tall, so I bought the R300 last night. I'm looking forward to getting it on the trail this weekend and see how it feels and performs while on it for an extended time.

I have relatives who live in Key West. As a kid, I used to spend time during the summers with them. I don't remember the high winds at all, except for the occasional thunderstorm. Sometimes it would get a little windy, but I wouldn't consider those winds as "high winds"...

I'm getting lazy in my old age.

Look up the thread by GratedWasabi. Read my post to him. The same advice applies to you.

I'm getting lazy in my old age.

Look up the thread by GratedWasabi. Read my post to him. The same advice applies to you.

You might get the wrong sized bike, buying online. Not all bicycle manufacturers size their bikes in the same manner. For some reason, buying online usually involves a slight pinch of chance.

The OP has already bought a bike, so Slim's special brand of misinformation has done no harm here.

The OP has already bought a bike, so Slim's special brand of misinformation has done no harm here.

Is that the best an aluminite can do? :lol:

I got out and rode the bike a few miles in my neighborhood, going through all the gears, testing brakes, etc. Wanted to make sure it felt good as well. Everything A-OK

Got out to the park to do our 22 mile trip with a couple bikers and a skater. Got 9 miles in at 19mph and then.....flat front tire! Another rider had a canister of air, but the adapter wouldnt go on right, so I hoofed it back to the cars (about 2 miles). (She also had a spare tube, but I didnt want to stop them that long). The seller I bought from reluctantly agreed to replace the tube for me at no cost (not that a new one is much money).

It got me realizing, I need to get some emergency equip to put in my under-seat pouch. I have a small pump mounted to my mtn bike, I guess I can move that back and forth. What else should I get? (tube, 2 changing levers, etc).

The seller is a better man than me... I certainly would not think there is any warranty against flat tires implied for a used bike.

Well, I've had the bike 3+ months and am enjoying it. I look back at this conversation and have to laugh at the thought of a single speed. I mostly use 3 gears (9, 10, 11) of the 14...but am in all of the upper 7 at one time or another.

I mostly do a 2 or 3 bike + 1 or 2 skater group every other week at the county park trail. We do 3 laps around the 7 mile loop and keep our pace at 18-20 mph. Sometimes we get out with just 3 bikes and hold 21-23 mph. Both trips usually end with a half mile sprint up to 26 mph.

I've invested in one upgrade: Shimano PD5700 pedals and Scott shoes. Well worth it! Only other thing may be a saddle, if I start getting into longer rides. Otherwise, I'm thinking I am going to leave the bike as-is for a while. If I really keep up with it for another few months or more, I'll look into either upgrading components, or just buying a newer (carbon?) bike with something like Ulteggra components. Christmas is only 4 months away! lol

Sweet man. I am in the process of gathering the parts for a bling new bike myself. The pedals do make life nicer. Ride on buddy.

I know I alluded to future plans in my previous post . My "problem" is that I am always asking myself, and anyone else who will listen, if it is smarter to spend the money on component upgrades little by little, or save the money and get a new(er) bike at some point?

New components and wheels can cost just as much as a used entry level carbon race type bike would....and they come with components and wheels that are quite good.

I know I alluded to future plans in my previous post . My "problem" is that I am always asking myself, and anyone else who will listen, if it is smarter to spend the money on component upgrades little by little, or save the money and get a new(er) bike at some point?

New components and wheels can cost just as much as a used entry level carbon race type bike would....and they come with components and wheels that are quite good.

Unless there is a problem or something broken on your existing bike and you need to replace something, 'upgrading' is almost always a waste of money. There is nothing you can do to a well maintained bike that will magically make it faster or better to ride... except for replacing tires which can make a noticeable (but still small) difference... but since tires always wear out, buying new better (lighter and more supple casing, or tougher more flat resistant - whichever you think you need more) tires when the current ones wear out is a nice reward for riding your bike enough to wear out the tires. Put the rest of your money in your piggy bank, replace tires, chains, cables, and handlebar tape when you need to, and buy a better bike when that one is dead.

Unless there is a problem or something broken on your existing bike and you need to replace something, 'upgrading' is almost always a waste of money. There is nothing you can do to a well maintained bike that will magically make it faster or better to ride... except for replacing tires which can make a noticeable (but still small) difference... but since tires always wear out, buying new better (lighter and more supple casing, or tougher more flat resistant - whichever you think you need more) tires when the current ones wear out is a nice reward for riding your bike enough to wear out the tires. Put the rest of your money in your piggy bank, replace tires, chains, cables, and handlebar tape when you need to, and buy a better bike when that one is dead.

that's what I needed to hear. makes total sense to me. thanks

for the riding that I do, this bike is plenty. there is no reason for me to be looking at carbon/race bikes.......but they are so pretty! lol

UPDATE: Made a new friend in our skating and biking group, that is very good at building bikes. He saw me riding my 54cm bike and told me I should be on a bigger frame (I'm 6'-1"). I rode his 58cm and wow, what a difference! So he had an old 85 Cannondale polished aluminum frame and steel fork he gave me. We took most of the stuff off my old bike, bought a couple used shimano 600 sti shifters and new cables and chain. Loving it so far. The shiny aluminum really turns some heads.

One of my rims is a little warped, it rides OK, but needs to be replaced in the long run. Id like to find some quality lightweight rims for a couple hundred or less.

Also need a comfortable seat. I have ZERO "natural padding" and after 30 minutes or so I start to feel it.

Other than that, Im doing pretty much the same riding as mentioned above.

if you are looking to upgrade your wheels look at nasbar.com they have a nice selection at good prices.
i installed these wheels on my bike and like them very much, i also picked up 1 mph average speed over my regular 40 mile route i usually ride. and yes my bearings were properly lubed and adjusted on my old wheels.

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_507097_-1___202478

also maybe look into getting biking shorts or tights with some padding. this might help your rear.

you MIGHT have to spread your fork and rear triangle a bit to fit modern wheels on a vintage bike but they will work on your bike.
also if you have a 7 speed cassette you will need to install a spacer to install it on a 8-9-10 speed hub.

you could also drop your wobbling wheel in to a bike shop to get straightened.

UPDATE: Made a new friend in our skating and biking group, that is very good at building bikes. He saw me riding my 54cm bike and told me I should be on a bigger frame (I'm 6'-1"). I rode his 58cm and wow, what a difference! So he had an old 85 Cannondale polished aluminum frame and steel fork he gave me. We took most of the stuff off my old bike, bought a couple used shimano 600 sti shifters and new cables and chain. Loving it so far. The shiny aluminum really turns some heads.

One of my rims is a little warped, it rides OK, but needs to be replaced in the long run. Id like to find some quality lightweight rims for a couple hundred or less.

Also need a comfortable seat. I have ZERO "natural padding" and after 30 minutes or so I start to feel it.

Other than that, Im doing pretty much the same riding as mentioned above.
Wow! 6'1" riding a 54c?!?! You must have been pretty jammed up on that, knees hitting the handlebars n' sh*t!

Congrats on the upgrade, no doubt. How about a pic?

UPDATE: Made a new friend in our skating and biking group, that is very good at building bikes. He saw me riding my 54cm bike and told me I should be on a bigger frame (I'm 6'-1"). I rode his 58cm and wow, what a difference! So he had an old 85 Cannondale polished aluminum frame and steel fork he gave me. We took most of the stuff off my old bike, bought a couple used shimano 600 sti shifters and new cables and chain. Loving it so far. The shiny aluminum really turns some heads.

One of my rims is a little warped, it rides OK, but needs to be replaced in the long run. Id like to find some quality lightweight rims for a couple hundred or less.

Also need a comfortable seat. I have ZERO "natural padding" and after 30 minutes or so I start to feel it.

Other than that, Im doing pretty much the same riding as mentioned above.

Even if you had more "natural padding" your sit bones would probably still not like your present saddle. The problem is that everyone has to find the best one for them.

I have zero natural padding too, but God must have given me the world's only universally compatible butt, because I can even ride on a Buttraper--uh, I mean Bontrager---saddle. :lol:

you could also drop your wobbling wheel in to a bike shop to get straightened.


My friend has worked on the wheel a couple times on his "alignment apparatus" (dont know what it's called), I don't think it is going to get much straighter.





if you are looking to upgrade your wheels look at nasbar.com they have a nice selection at good prices.
i installed these wheels on my bike and like them very much, i also picked up 1 mph average speed over my regular 40 mile route i usually ride. and yes my bearings were properly lubed and adjusted on my old wheels.


http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_507097_-1___202478


also maybe look into getting biking shorts or tights with some padding. this might help your rear.


Thanks for the info. I do have some bike shorts, though I have been told there are better pairs out there, with better padding.




As for buying a wheel that might not fit, thanks for letting me know that, i wouldn't have thought of that. Fortunately, I wont buy something without my buddy's input. It was his old frame, so he knows all about what will fit.


I will post pics as soon as I get my new Continental 4000S (i think that is the model) tires on it. I have popped 2 tubes (once on the front and once on the back) putting them on. I cant get that last foot over the lip, so I use the tools. Most of the time i get it to work, but not so much luck this weekend. I am taking it to the shop tonight to buy another tube and have them put it on!

UPDATE: Made a new friend in our skating and biking group, that is very good at building bikes. He saw me riding my 54cm bike and told me I should be on a bigger frame (I'm 6'-1"). I rode his 58cm and wow, what a difference!

Wow, indeed. You didn't mention in your OP how tall you are, nor the size of the bikes you were considering. I'm surprised a) you found a way to ride a 54 in anything close to a comfortable fashion, and b) it took this long riding in groups for anyone else to mention the fact that your bike was way too small for you.

It really wasn't that bad of a fit, in and of itself. I had the seat pretty high, got on and rode it...simple. Once I got on the 58....THEN I realized I had been really hunched over.

My riding group consists of a couple friends and that's about it. Most are inline skaters. This "new" guy (had moved out of town for 8 months so wasn't around when I bought it) is the one who immediately noticed.

Live and learn!

It really wasn't that bad of a fit, in and of itself. I had the seat pretty high, got on and rode it...simple. Once I got on the 58....THEN I realized I had been really hunched over.

My riding group consists of a couple friends and that's about it. Most are inline skaters. This "new" guy (had moved out of town for 8 months so wasn't around when I bought it) is the one who immediately noticed.

Live and learn!


It is hard to notice a bad fit when you have nothing to compare it to.

I used to think I could ride any 62 cm road bike or 21" mountain bike, until I bought myself a shiny new 21" mountain bike sight unseen, and couldn't figure out why I was suffering so much and could not ride as fast as I could on my last bike... I almost gave up cycling, figuring I was just too fat and it was too difficult. Turns out the bike was a poor fit! I got a new frame with taller head tube and longer top tube and I enjoyed riding again.
FWIW, my major complaint about BSOs (bike-shaped objects - the craptacular bikes sold at big box stores), besides the absolute absence of skill and care used during assembly, is that they generally only come in one size, and if you are not between ~5'6" and ~5'10", the bikes will not fit and you wouldn't even know what a bike is supposed to feel like.

It is hard to notice a bad fit when you have nothing to compare it to.

Exactly!

Here's pics of the original and new bikes:


Original 54cm CAD2 R300
293798


New 58cm 1985 Cannondale aluminum
293799

That is a sweet bike dude.

thanks!

components are a mix of old Ultegra, 105, 600 and RSX....nothing special. Cables, chain and tires are new (yellow tires looked horrid on the silver bike).

That seat is one of three I am borrowing from the guy I bought the original bike from. I need to get out and put at least half an hour on each to see how they feel.

As mentioned above, wheels will be my next venture. Would like to find some good used ones.

That seat is one of three I am borrowing from the guy I bought the original bike from. I need to get out and put at least half an hour on each to see how they feel.


If I were you I would adjust the angle of the saddel to be closer to level, as tilted forward as it appears to be will cause your weight to slide forward and put more pressure on your hands and arms.

If I were you I would adjust the angle of the saddle to be closer to level, as tilted forward as it appears to be will cause your weight to slide forward and put more pressure on your hands and arms.

agreed. I haven't even sat on this yet, I just put it on last night. I usually like my seats tilted up even more than normal, and you are right, this looks down (though I don't think it is as much as it looks in the photo).

agreed. I haven't even sat on this yet, I just put it on last night. I usually like my seats tilted up even more than normal, and you are right, this looks down (though I don't think it is as much as it looks in the photo).

I like my saddle slightly nose up - I feel that keeps my weight on the wider back part. Of course, too far nose-up and it sorta gets jammed up into your crotchular region.
Often you have to adjust saddle height a little bit when you adjust saddle angle. And too high a saddle height will make it less comfortable.