Classic & Vintage - Raleigh Sports 1960

Hello,

I just purchased a used Raleigh Sports, which despite appearances actually is in really good condition. I'm planning on cleaning and restoring it as much as I can.

I stumbled upon it online while searching for the best durable, post-apocalypse bike I could find. Having the idea that vintage bikes were what best suited my needs, since they already proved their durability, and they usually are easier to repair (simple mechanics, steel that can be welded etc.) The online auction started at 10 euros and that's the price I got it for. It comes from a house on the sea (Knokke, Belgium). The salt there can't have done him much good, which can be seen on the fenders.

The story from the previous owner (52 y.o.) was that he got it when he was 12. So 1972 was my first guess. Actually, inspecting the rear AW hub the date was 1960, which, combined with a steel pulley and a brooks B66 saddle instead of the B72, has me convinced (by Sheldon Brown's information) this bike is more likely to having been built around 1960. But tell me if you think I'm wrong.

It has had a refit in the seventies though. I don't think the 'made in Switzerland' Lucifer headlight is typically Raleigh, as are neither the speedometer (Huret) and the rather interesting bell. (see pictures).

All lights are still working, gear shifting is very good, brakes function perfectly (I think they're original, see photos). I just replaced the flat inner rear tire, the bike was good to go. I did 30 km (20 miles) on it today, and the ride was a real treat!

So I came on this forum to ask some questions:

- How to remove the rust! I know this is possibly the most asked question about vintage bikes on this forum, but in this case you'll see how the rust on some points, and especially on the fenders, has penetrated the paint. I wonder how I can try to minimize this rust appearance, without damaging the paint too much? I already successfully tried to remove the rust on the unpainted parts (handlebar, rims) with steel whool soaked in vinegar (a good idea?).

- Should I replace the steel rims with aluminium ones? I did notice that braking power is less than on other aluminium rims, but it doesn't bother me too much. I do appreciate how the steel rims, when cleaned, shine in their chrome.

- Should I try to open and reassemble the Sturmey Archer hub? Or is just lubricating it through its oil cap enough?

- The brooks saddle. As the pictures show, it's quite dry, probably hasn't been treated for years or even decades. I was thinking about treating it from the underside with pure beeswax? (since we have some beehives in our garden).

- What are other adjustments / modifications I might consider? Keeping in mind that I primarily bought this bike for its ease of maintenance, durability. Although I'm quite falling in love with its vintage aspect, I wouldn't mind customizing it a little for practical reasons. But preferably nothing I can't undo.

Finally, does anyone have more information on my lamp brand? (Lucifer, Swiss) Or about the speed meter? (Huret) I would be very thankful.

Thank you all very much for any input!

Here are some pictures (almost as I bought it, it's been more cleaned since, and I have replaced the flat rear tire).

247528247529247530247531247532247533247534247535247536247537247538247539

Anyone? :crash: Just a tip on the brooks beeswax treatment?

It's a lot of questions and some of them only you can answer. Dig a little deeper and read some more threads on OA or Oxalic Acid treatment (for rust) and Brooks saddles and Sun CR-18 rims. It'll help you make educated choices rather than polling the forum to vote on what to do with your bike. Personally I wouldn't put anything other than proofhide on the top of that saddle, nothing on the bottom. A car polishing compound like Scratch X or McGuires will make your bike shine after the rust is gone. New red Kool Stop pads will help your brakes out. New rims will defeat the whole restoring of a cheap bombproof bike, right?

Your bike has circa 60 decals and the correct double ended brake cables. I think the light and speedo are Euro mainstream accessories but I find the bell really interesting as well as the rack. It looks like an export market bike made for a European country, maybe Switzerland or the like. Tough to say.

It's the perfect, durable, post apocalyptic bike! Congrats, now get to work cleaning it up like Norm did with his '49

Reading through this thread will probably help you immensely.
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/623699-For-the-love-of-English-3-speeds

My understanding is Beeswax is not to be used with Brooks saddles...I always go with Brooks Proofide, but have heard of other oils working (neat oil or something like that?). If it doesn't come back to life, shell out the cash and buy one...they're worth it.

I would absolutely change out the rims to modern aluminum...I would also change out the brake calipers and, possibly, levers. To me stopping is one of the most important things a bike does, and if it doesn't do it well, including in rain, the bike has no value to me in real world commuting applications.

If you intend to commute with it, I'd also change out the lighting (assuming it has lighting) and go with modern LED or a modern generator hub/LED combo. Other modifications I'd consider would be lighter fenders, lighter bars and lighter cranks.

It's a lot of questions and some of them only you can answer. Dig a little deeper and read some more threads on OA or Oxalic Acid treatment (for rust) and Brooks saddles and Sun CR-18 rims. It'll help you make educated choices rather than polling the forum to vote on what to do with your bike. Personally I wouldn't put anything other than proofhide on the top of that saddle, nothing on the bottom. A car polishing compound like Scratch X or McGuires will make your bike shine after the rust is gone. New red Kool Stop pads will help your brakes out. New rims will defeat the whole restoring of a cheap bombproof bike, right?

Your bike has circa 60 decals and the correct double ended brake cables. I think the light and speedo are Euro mainstream accessories but I find the bell really interesting as well as the rack. It looks like an export market bike made for a European country, maybe Switzerland or the like. Tough to say.

It's the perfect, durable, post apocalyptic bike! Congrats, now get to work cleaning it up like Norm did with his '49

clubman always offers sound advice to folks here on the forums when it comes to these old English steeds. Heed his advice.

I really think just cleaning the bike and servicing will serve you well as I don't see anything alarming with the rust that would call for much more than that.

My understanding is Beeswax is not to be used with Brooks saddles...I always go with Brooks Proofide, but have heard of other oils working (neat oil or something like that?). If it doesn't come back to life, shell out the cash and buy one...they're worth it.

I would absolutely change out the rims to modern aluminum...I would also change out the brake calipers and, possibly, levers. To me stopping is one of the most important things a bike does, and if it doesn't do it well, including in rain, the bike has no value to me in real world commuting applications.

If you intend to commute with it, I'd also change out the lighting (assuming it has lighting) and go with modern LED or a modern generator hub/LED combo. Other modifications I'd consider would be lighter fenders, lighter bars and lighter cranks.

I'd disregard a good bit of KonAaron Snake's advice, other than what he mentioned regarding Proofide and saddles. As rhm said in a thread the other day:


Ah, don't listen to Aaron! He hates bikes with internally geared hubs. :lol:

I'm largely in the camp of those that like to keep these old bikes original the the extent possible.

Aaron, I'm not picking on you here, but for someone who's not into 3-speeds you're sure showing a lot of interest in them lately. I suppose it's just a matter of time before you're trying to get us to convert them to derailleur gear bikes! What gives, man? :P

Wow,Theres Alot going on around the handle bars.You could probably lose ten pounds by cleaning up the cables. ;)..And those electrified reflectors. :D

Wow,Theres Alot going on around the handle bars.You could probably lose ten pounds by cleaning up the cables. ;)..And those electrified reflectors. :D

I think the reflectors are a nice touch! :P

I'd disregard a good bit of KonAaron Snake's advice, other than what he mentioned regarding Proofide and saddles. As rhm said in a thread the other day:
Ah, don't listen to Aaron! He hates bikes with internally geared hubs. :lol:

I'm largely in the camp of those that like to keep these old bikes original the the extent possible.

Aaron, I'm not picking on you here, but for someone who's not into 3-speeds you're sure showing a lot of interest in them lately. I suppose it's just a matter of time before you're trying to get us to convert them to derailleur gear bikes! What gives, man? :PI don't like them personally...but if someone is asking for advice on modifications, I feel I do offer valuable advice...and it's advice others here don't offer. I think it's good to let folks with questions know that 3 speed steel rim braking is lacking...and suicidal in the rain. If he's going to commute with it...and ask...i'm going to offer my perspective. To me, the lighting and braking on these bikes are inadequate.

Others can explain why lights that don't work and brakes that don't stop are preferable.

I'm not picking on 3 speeds, it's any bike with steel rims, antiquated lighting and flexy calipers.

I don't like them personally...but if someone is asking for advice on modifications, I feel I do offer valuable advice...and it's advice others here don't offer. I think it's good to let folks with questions know that 3 speed steel rim braking is lacking...and suicidal in the rain. If he's going to commute with it...and ask...i'm going to offer my perspective. To me, the lighting and braking on these bikes are inadequate.

Others can explain why lights that don't work and brakes that don't stop are preferable.

+1 Old does not always equal better. IGH's are people who think about riding rather than riding.

....
Others can explain why lights that don't work and brakes that don't stop are preferable.....

I would offer that they add much to the excitement of riding a real vintage 3-speed!:)

:lol:

I love you man.

This really isn't a 3 spd issue, or an igh issue, it's a braking/lighting issue. I don't want vintage safety.

Clubman, thank you. I did quite some reading beforehand, but I thought it couldn't go wrong asking about this specific bike. I read about oxalic acid, but am a bit afraid I might damage the original paint. I think I'll just leave the rust on the paint. If I were to remove it, the steel would be bare and it would rust again. I'll follow on your advice for the Brooks. Information on beeswax was rather vague, and proofide isn't that expensive anyway. Thanks for the tip on the car polish, hadn't thought about that yet. My breaking pads are still in good condition, but I've read about these Kool Stop pads before. If they make me brake better I'll get those too. And yes, the rack is uncommon indeed! I had my father see the bike, and he owned a very similar raleigh when he was young. First thing he noticed that was different was the rack.

Fenway, thanks for the link, lots of nice bikes in there!

KonAaron Snake, thanks for your tip on the beeswax. I'll get the proofide then. As for the rims, the chromed steel ones are quite beautiful. I also like the idea between the 32/40 spokes count. The wheels do need some truing. I'll first see if the Kool Stop pads improve the braking, I haven't yet ridden in the rain, but since I won't be using it for commuting (I've already had 2 bikes stolen), I don't think braking in the rain will be a problem since I will probably mostly take it out when the weather is nice. I just came home from riding the bike in the dark, and the lighting works well enough, so the LEDs are an option maybe for later, right now I'm happy with it. Finally, I don't consider improvements on the weight front that important. The bike is already quite heavy, but as I understand it weight doesn't really matter much if you don't rely on quick accelerating/decelerating and mostly tour on flat roads. I actually like the weight of the bike, it gives a very solid, stable feeling. With a cruising speed of 25 km/h (for 50 km this weekend), with as only service having replaced a flat tire, I'm very happy already with the bike's performance compared to my lighter, aluminium commuter...

photogravity, yes I spotted KonAaron on Norm's thread also :D But I do understand his opinion a bit. Myself I am a little torn too now between saving the vintage aspect, or fully go for the practical bike.

Michael K, yes, and it's not only the handelbars.. All those cables are quite a sight too. 2 brake cables, gear shifter cable, bell cable and speedometer cable...

Thank you all, I'll be posting updates when I'll work on the bike (will be rather slow going, exams are around the corner now). I hope to have it finished beginning of July, when I'll be able to make a bike trip around Italy (getting there by train).

+1 Old does not always equal better. IGH's are people who think about riding rather than riding.

Lets see if you say that after rhm drops you on our ride Friday as you struggle to maintain the pace he keeps riding his IGH equipped RRA or Fothergill! :p

Lets see if you say that after rhm drops you on our ride Friday as you struggle to maintain the pace he keeps riding his IGH equipped RRA or Fothergill! :p

Stop using RHM as your IGH proxy! I want to see you climb the hills of Topton PA w/ a not-low-enough-low on a bike that weighs 20lbs too much!:p

There's 2 three speeds in the garge now,no thanks to this forum.:p:p:p

I see the bell now,very unique! :thumb:

Stop using RHM as your IGH proxy! I want to see you climb the hills of Topton PA w/ a not-low-enough-low on a bike that weighs 20lbs too much!:p

Oh, I very seriously doubt I'd drop anyone, no matter the bike I'm on. After all it's the engine, yes? :) As of now, it's a toss up between the Norman Rapide (http://www.flickr.com/photos/threefamilyalbum/sets/72157629377648749/) (37, 45, 57 and 72 gear inches) and the Peugeot PX-8 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/threefamilyalbum/sets/72157627745147882/) (32, 42, 48, 54, 62, 70, 80, 104 gear inches). Which do you suggest, since you seem to know the area a little bit?

Aluminum rims are much better than steel, particularly in the rain. Sun CR-18 26" x 1-3/8" rims are available in 32, 36, and 40 hole drillings with either a satin or polished finish and are a drop-in replacement for the stock rims. This means that you can use the spokes from your present wheels, if they aren't seized to the nipples.

If the hub is working well, there's no point in opening it up unless you're curious about what happens inside. Those hubs are very durable, and just regular lubrication through the oil port will keep them going strong for decades.

Re: the saddle -- I've had good luck with a combination of Proofide, shoe polish, and SnoSeal. Start with a Proofide treatment, and let it soak in for a day or so. You don't need to drown it in Proofide; just a thin layer on all surfaces. Follow it up with shoe polish of the appropriate color, with particular attention to scuffed areas. Then apply SnoSeal on top of the polish. The solvent in the SnoSeal will carry the pigment from the polish deeper into the leather, and the beeswax in the SnoSeal will keep it there when the solvent has evaporated. A hair dryer will help the SnoSeal penetrate the leather. You may need to repeat the polish/SnoSeal step once or twice depending on the condition of the saddle and how it responds.

I've done this with several old Brooks Pros with good results.

My understanding is Beeswax is not to be used with Brooks saddles...I always go with Brooks Proofide, but have heard of other oils working (neat oil or something like that?). If it doesn't come back to life, shell out the cash and buy one...they're worth it.

Beeswax is a component of Proofide, and does not soften the leather the way Neat's foot oil does. I'd avoid treatments other than Proofide and beeswax for that reason.

http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/proofide.jpg

I don't like them personally...but if someone is asking for advice on modifications, I feel I do offer valuable advice...and it's advice others here don't offer. I think it's good to let folks with questions know that 3 speed steel rim braking is lacking...and suicidal in the rain. If he's going to commute with it...and ask...i'm going to offer my perspective. To me, the lighting and braking on these bikes are inadequate.

Others can explain why lights that don't work and brakes that don't stop are preferable.

I'm not picking on 3 speeds, it's any bike with steel rims, antiquated lighting and flexy calipers.

I guess I must have a death wish... :innocent: :D

In reality there are several ways to greatly improve some of the issues that KonAaron brings up with out resorting to a multi million dollar overhaul.

I use modern LED lights with old dyno hubs, adding Continental Koolstops to the brakes makes a huge difference on the steel rims, even in the wet. FWIW I have been riding these damned deathtraps for over 40 years and am still here to tell about it. I even ride rod brake roadsters in the rain, but plan my trips to avoid stopping. :P

Aaron :)

oh, i very seriously doubt i'd drop anyone, no matter the bike i'm on. After all it's the engine, yes? :) as of now, it's a toss up between the norman rapide (http://www.flickr.com/photos/threefamilyalbum/sets/72157629377648749/) (37, 45, 57 and 72 gear inches) and the peugeot px-8 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/threefamilyalbum/sets/72157627745147882/) (32, 42, 48, 54, 62, 70, 80, 104 gear inches). Which do you suggest, since you seem to know the area a little bit?

px-8.

[QUOTE= and flexy calipers.[/QUOTE]

On my two Raleigh Sprites, I have found the one with the standard steel Raleigh caliper brakes to be far less flexy than the one with the classic Weinman alloy brakes. Easier to adjust, too.

Beeswax is a component of Proofide, and does not soften the leather the way Neat's foot oil does. I'd avoid treatments other than Proofide and beeswax for that reason.

http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/proofide.jpg

Thanks John...I get this stuff confused. Part of why I use proofide is to avoid getting this stuff mixed up.

I know others are less enthused with modernizing rims, but that's not an area where I'm willing to compromise.

Oh lovely! I would definitely upgrade to alloy rims, especially if you have rim brakes. But, make sure you get the right size and something that is polished...unlike my recent wheel build for my raleigh sports. grrrr!! CR-18's are highly polished and come in 650a.
I just found 4 sturmey archer hubs at the recycling depot-on very mysterious wheels. I have no idea what to do with them or how to tell if they would work.
Do you keep bees or do you just have some friendly honeybees willing to give up some wax? I use proofhide and have no idea how natural beeswax would go, but I think you could try use it just like proof hide-wax on, wax off.

+1 for the "continental" kool stop salmon pads. I plan on getting them for my other raleigh which is in gorgeous condition with gleaming chrome rims. They DO NOT stop in the rain. If your rims are rusty, then just upgrade to CR-18's. I live in the pacific northwest, so that bike only goes out in nice weather spring, summer and fall. The brake levers are pretty and flexy, but what a ride.
My raleigh sports had a fair bit of scratching and rust, and someone suggested just waxing it and hoping for the best. The raleigh sports is going to have drum brakes if I ever get the wheels rebuilt...

Nice bike Xardas, and rare to get a bargain in Knokke :)
(for US members, Knokke is Belgium's version of the Hamptons)

If you find a source for the legendary CR-18 wheels, I'd love to know it. I've done a lot of Googling, but it seems that they are not available in Europe.

Hey Norm, I enjoyed the thread on your bike.

Here I found a dutch link for the CR 18: http://r.twenga.nl/g3.php?pg=VDszNzkxOTA1MTM1MjIzNzU1NTAyOzE2OTcyMjE7aHR0cDovL3d3dy5raWxsZXItYmlrZXMuY29tL2luZGV4LnBocD 9wYWdlPXNob3AucHJvZHVjdF9kZXRhaWxzJmNhdGVnb3J5X2lkPTE0JmZseXBhZ2U9c2hvcC5mbHlwYWdlJnByb2R1Y3RfaWQ9ND QwJm9wdGlvbj1jb21fdmlydHVlbWFydCZJdGVtaWQ9MTsyMzJmNTUwMTEwM2Y0ZTFhOWJlMDM1YjRmNzllMDNiNg==

Thanks, but it's the wrong size :(

That's for VTT. You can find those relatively easily, but not the 650A / 590 size we need...

If the hub is working well, there's no point in opening it up unless you're curious about what happens inside. Those hubs are very durable, and just regular lubrication through the oil port will keep them going strong for decades.


Thanks for the rim suggestion. Apparently this is quite a popular change. I will see if I can find those rims here in Belgium. Your saddle treatment is also very interesting. I read mixed opinions on the snoseal treatment, I'll first sea if proofide alone does the job.

The hub has been used for 50 years without having been opened as far as I know. I saw some very good tutorials on the internet (it's the common AW hub), and I'd like to get a better understanding of how it works. I've nowhere read it's difficult or damaging to the hub, so I think I'll manage it.



Do you keep bees or do you just have some friendly honeybees willing to give up some wax? I use proofhide and have no idea how natural beeswax would go, but I think you could try use it just like proof hide-wax on, wax off.

Thanks for the rim tip; We keep bees at home. When we harvest the honey, can can take some of the wax too. The bees are also the reason we keep a steady supply of oxalic acid at home, for parasite treatment. So the bees unexpectedly come in handy here :D


+1 for the "continental" kool stop salmon pads. I plan on getting them for my other raleigh which is in gorgeous condition with gleaming chrome rims. They DO NOT stop in the rain. If your rims are rusty, then just upgrade to CR-18's. I live in the pacific northwest, so that bike only goes out in nice weather spring, summer and fall. The brake levers are pretty and flexy, but what a ride.
My raleigh sports had a fair bit of scratching and rust, and someone suggested just waxing it and hoping for the best. The raleigh sports is going to have drum brakes if I ever get the wheels rebuilt...

My rims are rusty, but it I got it off fairly easily. Now they shine! I'll have to take out the bike in the rain once to test this notorious brake issue. Yes I'll be waxing it too, will post pictures when that's done.

Do you keep bees or do you just have some friendly honeybees willing to give up some wax? I use proofhide and have no idea how natural beeswax would go, but I think you could try use it just like proof hide-wax on, wax off.

SnoSeal (http://www.amazon.com/Sno-Seal-7-oz/dp/B005L9EEHU) is essentially just beeswax in a volatile solvent. The solvent makes it easy to apply and helps it penetrate the leather. When it evaporates away it leaves behind plain beeswax.

The hub has been used for 50 years without having been opened as far as I know. I saw some very good tutorials on the internet (it's the common AW hub), and I'd like to get a better understanding of how it works. I've nowhere read it's difficult or damaging to the hub, so I think I'll manage it.

No, they're not overly complicated. Sometimes the ball ring can be a chore to remove, but that's usually the worst part. Do take care not to lose any of the pawl springs, though -- they're quite tiny and hard to find, particularly if you have a cluttered work area.

I've got a Raleigh Sports torn down and ready for re-finiishing. A set of CR-18 will replace the stock wheels. I haven't found a saddle for it yet but am leaning towards a Brooks. I just don't know for sure which model. I've ordered a new set of decals that should be here in a few days.

I'd love CR-18s, but they don't seem to be available in Europe. The closest I can find are these:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rigida-rm19-26-x-1-3-8-inch-590-silver-alloy-rim-36-hole-prod18604/

Where did you order the decals from?

Silvercreek, I think the two main brooks models between which to choose for a sports model are the B66 or the B72. The B66 has larger springs on the back, and is good for a upright riding position, or for when you're heavy.

The B72 would allow for a better forward lean, is thus a sportier model. Has less springs to it too.

My Sports model came with a B66 (I guess it's original). According to Sheldon Brown, until 1960 the sports were delivered with a B66 brooks. After 1960 they came with a B72. (The superbes still came with the B66).

But you can also try other brooks, the B17 for example for touring use;

All I know about this is from browsing the internet though.

I'm also interested where you got the decals from?

Silvercreek, I think the two main brooks models between which to choose for a sports model are the B66 or the B72. The B66 has larger springs on the back, and is good for a upright riding position, or for when you're heavy.

The B72 would allow for a better forward lean, is thus a sportier model. Has less springs to it too.

My Sports model came with a B66 (I guess it's original). According to Sheldon Brown, until 1960 the sports were delivered with a B66 brooks. After 1960 they came with a B72. (The superbes still came with the B66).

But you can also try other brooks, the B17 for example for touring use;

All I know about this is from browsing the internet though.

I'm also interested where you got the decals from?

I ordered my decals from VeloCal (http://www.velocals.com/servlet/StoreFront). Thanks for the information about the saddles.

Thanks, the quality looks great, but unless they're not shown on the site, they don't list correct ones for earlier Raleigh Sports, like mine and Xardas'.

i waaaaaaaant it!

Well, golly. There is so much advice on this thread already, some of it good and some of it contradictory, and so many non sequiturs, that I hesitate to add anything. But what the heck.

If you're a beekeeper, and want to use your own beeswax, I say go for it. You can make a pretty good Proofide substitute by mixing equal parts beeswax and neatsfoot oil (not "neatsfoot oil compound"). Forum member Blaise put me onto this. What you do is melt the beeswax in a double boiler, add the neatsfoot oil while it's cooling, and stir while it sets, so you end up with a paste rather than a block. Then use this more or less the same as proofide.

How are your bees doing? Mine were done in by hive beetles and wax moths the summer before last, and I have not replaced them yet. Dang parasites! I am hoping to catch a swarm this weekend (:lol:).

As for the rims, it is true that aluminum rims are better; but they are not much better. It is also true that you can get better brakes than the original steel ones; but again, better brakes will not be much better. I think you will be happier cleaning up what you have and leaving it original. I may, of course, be wrong about this: but I believe if you clean and polish the original stuff up, put good brake pads in the existing shoes (orange koolstop pads are indeed much and I mean much better than the alternatives, and I strongly recommend those), you will be happy and proud of the bike in its 50+ year old glory. Change the 18T sprocket to a 22T and it will feel 10 lbs lighter. Ride it for a few months before you make radical upgrades, and I am confident you'll decide not to upgrade much, if anything.

As for the light, Huret speedometer, etc., my suggestion would be to remove it all, carefully, and deal with the bike without them. It will look better and ride better wnen rid of all that stuff. Once you have it all clean and lubed and adjusted to your liking, start working on the accessories.

- How to remove the rust! I know this is possibly the most asked question about vintage bikes on this forum, but in this case you'll see how the rust on some points, and especially on the fenders, has penetrated the paint. I wonder how I can try to minimize this rust appearance, without damaging the paint too much? I already successfully tried to remove the rust on the unpainted parts (handlebar, rims) with steel whool soaked in vinegar (a good idea?).

I think you already have some advice on this. Personally, I just treat
with some product that stops the process (Rustoleum sells one here,
they are labeled as rust converters or just rust treatment) . Then I wax
the frame and fenders once or twice. I like to think of it as theft deterrent.:D


- Should I replace the steel rims with aluminium ones? I did notice that braking power is less than on other aluminium rims, but it doesn't bother me too much. I do appreciate how the steel rims, when cleaned, shine in their chrome.

Aaron may not ride three speeds, but I do. IMO, He's correct in all he said .
The single most practical change I made to mine was the alloy rim relace.
Make certain you use a rim size for which there exists a wide selection of
readily available high quality tires. And add the kool stop pads to the package,
you'll be happy you did. You might even consider better alloy rim brakes,
which can be had in a range of reaches these days very cheaply (Tektro).


- Should I try to open and reassemble the Sturmey Archer hub? Or is just lubricating it through its oil cap enough?

It's not hugely difficult to do, but if it works, lubricate it
with some 20 weight machine oil, ad a little triflo, and ride
it as is until it stops working well.


- The brooks saddle. As the pictures show, it's quite dry, probably hasn't been treated for years or even decades. I was thinking about treating it from the underside with pure beeswax? (since we have some beehives in our garden).

I've used beeswax based products on similar saddles with
what I consider to be good results, so I'm with the "try it" guys
on this one.


- What are other adjustments / modifications I might consider? Keeping in mind that I primarily bought this bike for its ease of maintenance, durability. Although I'm quite falling in love with its vintage aspect, I wouldn't mind customizing it a little for practical reasons. But preferably nothing I can't undo.

Large capacity wire carrying baskets on the rear, possibly some straighter
bars like a North Road bar for a better balanced position on the bike, possibly
a more modern seat, definitely replace the pedals.....modern sealed bearing
pedals are the bee's knees.:p

Thanks for the PM Silvercreek, I've dropped them a message about the correct decals.

(only 5 more posts and I can answer PMs directly - crazy system!)

rhm, good tip on the beeswax, thanks! The bees are doing well here. Of the 3 colonies, 2 survived winter in pretty good shape. One was left (probably) without a queen, it died out. The 2 remaining are infested by varroa, but we'll to wait a bit before we can treat them. In the meantime, they appear to be holding out quite well. I hand't heard yet about hive beetles. Apparently they're quite recent in the US, and in 2004 they appeared in Portugal. I live in Belgium, it can be long before they reach us here now :( Last year we lost all our 3 hives. 2 on varroa, one just vanished..

Thanks for you other comments on the bike, I agree 100%. I'll just restore it, change brakes and sprocket and then wait and see before changing anything else.

3alarmer, thanks for your comments, but I don't think I'll make such radical changes now; I've already ridden the bike and did not feel the brakes / pedals etc. need replacement. Maybe after some more riding I'll see again.

i waaaaaaaant it!

I still can't believe I have it! One look on the internet, and I find it, and ridiculously cheap. I've a friend who wants a same one now, but now I can't find one anywhere..

Due to approaching exams, things move only very slowly with my bike.

I now treat piece by piece of my bike with an oxalic acid bath. I put 3g of it in 1 liter water.

Apparently I can only put steel or other chrome steel parth in this OA bath. But how can I know if a part is good or not to go in the bath? How can I distinguish between zinc plating and chrome plating?

For example, can I treat the Sturmey-Archer gear shifter? (the steel version, on the handlebar)?

250110

The only non-painted metal parts I put in the acid bath which I maybe shouldn't have done was the brake caliper springs. They went a slightly blue colour. All the other shiny parts came out fine. I heard that some spokes might not come out well, but mine were fine. Might be worth testing a small section of one first.

Weren't the spokes zinc plated? So the OA removes the zinc, and the spokes will rust easier afterwards? My spokes aren't rusty anyway, so I don't think I'll treat them.

How are your spokes? Do they shine? Mine are a dull grey.

(btw did you participate in the tweed run in Ghent recently? I couldn't make it sadly.)

I wouldn't say they are shiny, but they look fine.

I wanted to go to the Gent tweed run, but the weather was so bad I didn't make it. Hopefully they'll do it again next year, maybe a bit later in the season as well...

The bell leaves some very small bubbles floating up. Is this a bad sign?

Here a picture of my bell:

250156