Bicycle Mechanics - Chain cleaning: nifty tool or vat of cleaner?

Searched through the threads and haven't found this topic yet.

I'm a huge newbie when it comes to bike mech -- to the point that, to my shame, I've had yet to clean/lube the chain! The threads point to the park tool site that has a nifty chain cleaner (they call it a CM-5). Anybody use one of these, or does everybody pop the chain off and soak in a vat of stuff?

I'm using this thread for reference: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=77327

Thanks!

Well if you dont have a SRAM powerlink (golden colored masterlink) i would go ahead and buy that machine, i've heard it doesnt clean as well as a soaking and can be messy but it works. If you've got a powerlink i would just soak it, its cheaper and it works better.

Searched through the threads and haven't found this topic yet.

... Anybody use one of these, or does everybody pop the chain off and soak in a vat of stuff?

Thanks!

I've never used a chain cleaning system. They look messy to use.

I believe the only way to give a thorough cleaning is by removing the chain, soaking it and rinsing it well. Personally, I use Simple Green (low cost, somewhat environmentally friendly compared to petroleum based solvents). While it is soaking, I'll also brush it and agitate the chain while in the solution. I follow that with multiple rinsings with hot tap water. The hot tap water heats the chain and helps it dry off.

I like to lube it before I install it on the bike. Sometimes, I'll place the clean, dry chain into a sandwich bag, squirt in some lube (my personal fav is Progold, a "dry" lube) and shake the bag around. Sometimes, I lay the chain out and place a drop of lube at all pivot points.

Also, I use a SRAM chain, which has a tool-less, reuseable "Powerlink". The chain can be disassembled in a matter of seconds using your fingers. Assembly takes half the time.

I soak the chain into a pan of hot, soapy water (dishwashing liquid), use a used tooth brush for the stubborn gunk, and rinse in HOT water. As MudPie says, a hot chain dries faster.

Your removable link may not be a different color (if you have one at all). My KMCs have removable links but you have to look for the retaining clip to know which one to attack.

Anyhow, I'm a big fan of the bottle-o-cleaner method. I like Finish Line citrus degreaser. It's biogradeable and acts as an emulsifier, so I feed in the chain (a Gatorade bottle has a nice wide mouth for this), dump in a little bit of degreaser, shake it all over to coat the chain, then pour in a bunch of water which activates the emulsifiers and really gets the grease moving. Shake it a bunch more, dump the water. Repeate the water step until it comes out clean. Hang dry, put back on the bike, and lube.

Grunge Brush

Since I rarely have a shop around when I have time (like vacations or races) I carry a big spray can of Brakleen. Pop the chain off(Sram of course) rinse it all off with that stuff(be ware it is a little volatile) if you wish to collect the junk have a cup or pan or whatever but it evaporates so fast its hardly a concern. Let it sit a few mins(thats all it takes to air dry) then do whatever you wish for relube.

Thanks!

I'm just amazed at how much random maintenance crud is associated with my new road bike. Today something in the rear assembly just started clicking! I only hear it when I'm not pedaling, just freewheeling, clicks once for every chain link that comes off the rear gear. When I pedal backwards it sounds like I've just cast a fishing line.

It's a good thing cycling is fun . . .

so cleaning the chain amounts to cleaner, tooth brush, and hot water. What is the recommended lubricant? Regards, Henry

lol yea i dont road bike i have an mtb bike but i must say it is a lot of maintenance. I do find with high quality components its less maintenance.

Amen to that, and thank goodness for hydraulic brakes. ;)

I remove and soak my chain a few times a year, but other than that I use a cloth and turn the cranks, running the chain in the oil-lubed cloth. At the least it gets a pretty good amount of hte grit, as well as the largest pieces, out.

Searched through the threads and haven't found this topic yet.

I'm a huge newbie when it comes to bike mech -- to the point that, to my shame, I've had yet to clean/lube the chain! The threads point to the park tool site that has a nifty chain cleaner (they call it a CM-5). Anybody use one of these, or does everybody pop the chain off and soak in a vat of stuff?

I'm using this thread for reference: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=77327

Thanks!

I hope you have a cheapo bike! I don't clean and lube my chain more than a couple times a week!

To answer the headline question:
What mechanic wouldn't if able, buy a new tool?

... Anybody use one of these, or does everybody pop the chain off and soak in a vat of stuff?
...Thanks!

Also, let me add that for weekly maintenance (after every 2 or 3 rides), I run a dry brush over the chain, chainrings, cogs and pulleys. Since I use a "dry" lubricant (I prefer Progold), the majority of crap on my chain can be knocked off with a stiff brush. Then, I apply the lube to each pivot. The whole process probably takes 7 minutes. I ride mountain and typically in dry conditions (except for this past week in Southern CA).

I'm a firm believer in a quiet, smooth chain.

What is the recommended lubricant? Regards, Henry

You would think that one product would rise above the rest considering the info and opinions available on the 'net, but it doesn't seem to be. I use Tri-Flow just because it comes in a drip bottle and I find that spray cans for chain lube are messy and wasteful even with a hose tip. So much for my scientific approach, eh? I'm sure there are some old-skoolers out there that still heat paraffin or linseed oil in a double boiler to soak their chain in.

Ok, gonna totally clean and lube the chain tomorrow and clean the cogs, but yuck! My chain's a Shimano CN-HG53, which means I have to use one of their wacky replacement links. If there is a bike shop open here tomorrow (yay Mississippi), hopefully they'll stock one of these.

Thanks all!

Don't remove it unless you have to. It adds a liability every time you pop a shimano so far as im concerned. They say the links are fine but nothing is as solid as a master link(like a Powerlink) or a virgin unpunched link. Cases like that ill just use a heavy drip of a self cleaner lube like White lightning or Krytech, then follow it with something else. The cleaning comes in the use of a clean rag to wipe as you go. IF you really want to be thorough, albeit a little more messy, take a can of Brakleen(brake parts cleaner) and it has a straw like wd 40. Spray the links as you go and have a big towel or rag behind it to catch the junk and overspray. The stuff dries like it was never there, then use your lube of choice.

I've cleaned chains for years without a chain cleaning tool until two years ago when I decided to buy the Finish Line Cleaning Machine; and now I doubt if I will ever have the need to remove another chain!...well at least not on the road bike.

When I use to remove the chain I really did not like doing it because it was time consuming so I would wait until the chain had about 1,000 to 1,200 miles on it before I would give good cleaning job. Now with the Finish Line tool I clean the chain every time I relube which is about every 150 miles, thus the chain stays cleaner with the more frequent cleanings, and it only takes maybe 10 minutes.

So do I like the cleaning tool? Yes, it's big time saver and the chain remains cleaner, and it's far less messer. Finish Line also sells a biodegradeable cleaner (a small bottle usually comes with the cleaning machine), that works very well. On MTB's if you get things to gunked up on a ride you have no choice but to remove the chain.

Word of caution; according to other people I spoke to and on various forums, the other cleaning machines are fragile, and the Park maybe the worst due to the weird handle on the side breaks off; and the Finish Line was rated best at cleaning.

> Anybody use one of these, or does everybody pop the chain off and soak in a vat of stuff?

I remove the chain. It's not a big deal (once you've been shown or RTFM), even for OEM chains.
I'm lucky to have access to an ultrasonic cleaner. I remove the big chunks with a wire brush first of course! :D
I DO use a different method for lubrication Paraffin.
I bought a 1# brick of paraffin (available at any supermarket/dept store, look near the canning section) years ago.
Clean the chain in the ultrasonic cleaner using your favorite solvent as the liquid.
(BTW, you can buy WD-40 by the jug)
Dry completely (compressed air helps).
Wrap loosely in foil and bake in the oven to remove any trace of solvent.
(If your wife/SO objects, use the grille)
Melt the paraffin on the stove (melt, not ignite; if it smokes, turn down the heat).
Drop (gently, no splashing) the clean chain into the paraffin.
Swish around with tongs, making sure to bend the chain side-to-side.
Remove from heat, let cool.
When the paraffin hardens, chip out the chain from the paraffin.
Use the wire brush again to remove any paraffin chunks/hunks.
VOILA! your chain is dry lubricated, for my use (road touring) for the entire season.
Hint: You have to get the wax really hot, just below smoking, to allow it to flow into the links.
If it starts to smoke, back off on the heat.
BTW, you can remelt the wax and pour it back in the same box just reinforce the corners to prevent leaks, and prop the box up so that the sides don't balloon out while the paraffin hardens.

Works for me.
It's probably not an OSHA approved method, but I never even singed my eyebrows.

i use a chain cleaning tool from performance bike. i got it for 10 bucks. it has 52 spinning brushes and i also got a bottle of their bio-degradable degreaser. it seems to work fine for me. i have a road bike.

The best thing i found to clean the chain is a tooth brush and some white gas. My method is not to earth friendly but oh well.

Morlok, You have WAAAAAY too much time on your hands :). I clean vigorously in a tupperware container with Finishline citrus, rinse thoroughly in hot water, dry thoroughly on radiator, drip of Finishline Wet on each link.

> Anybody use one of these, or does everybody pop the chain off and soak in a vat of stuff?

I remove the chain. It's not a big deal (once you've been shown or RTFM), even for OEM chains.
I'm lucky to have access to an ultrasonic cleaner. I remove the big chunks with a wire brush first of course! :D

An ultrasonic cleaner uh huh sure. What institution is crazy enough to allow this?

Personally a Coke bottle with some degreaser and a toothbrush serves me quite well.

An ultrasonic cleaner uh huh sure. What institution is crazy enough to allow this?

My mom has one to clean jewelry. they do exist...if thats what you're wondering. though hers is only like 3-4 inches in diameter and a couple inches deep. not big enough to put a chain in.

Anyway, FWIW, I use a chain cleaner, a park model. It works pretty well, and isn't much hassle. I've tried the soaking method, and I've found that method doesn't take off a lot of the crap that cakes onto the chain. I have to scrub a bunch to get it all off.

An ultrasonic cleaner uh huh sure. What institution is crazy enough to allow this?

Personally a Coke bottle with some degreaser and a toothbrush serves me quite well.


For a cheap ultrasonic cleaner, immerse the chain into a container with degreaser, then place it on top of the washing machine and wash a load of clothes. The random vibration of the machine agitates the chain bath.

Disclaimer: I've never tried it, so maybe it's an urban myth. But it doesn't cost anything to try. I'd be afriad of the whole thing walking off the washing machine and spilling on the floor.

A lot of these methods sound like an environmental nightmare if not illegal. Especially the part about washing it all down the drain. I know most bike specific degreasers and Simple Green are environmentally friendly, but what they take off is NOT. We really shouldn't be washing it down the drain. Better to take the leftover jar of gunk (degreaser and grease) to an auto parts store and tell them it's antifreeze or motor oil. Their recycling processes will dispose of these materials properly. I think most states require auto parts stores to take up to 2 gallons of antifreeze or oil even if you didn't buy from them. Where this is not the case, most cities have hazardous waste pickups a few times a year as well as drop off locations.

I've used an old Park chain cleaner for years (finally broke last time I used it). The small amount of degreaser it left after cleaning over the years has amounted to about half a Snapple bottle of gunk. I just keep adding to it and will dispose of it properly someday. Then I wipe down the chain with paper towels to dry it off as much as possible. Then I lube. Maybe I should burn the paper towels vs. throwing them away; don't know which is better, as burning probably just moves the grease/pollution to the air instead of the dump.

I believe chain cleaners are better because they are more efficient in their use of degreasers. They might not work quite as well as the bottle or brush method, but who cares? Ride for 15 minutes on any road or path and your spotless chain will be dirty again.

</steps off podium>

Oh come on now, are you serious? I suppose would should all have chain cases with catch basins to catch any grime that may come off the chain while riding as well...

Yes it's illegal to simply dump motor oil or antifreeze, but I doubt the same is true when you're talking about the grease that comes from a bicycle drivetrain.

Tell me, when you wash your hands after working on your bike do you save the runoff and bottle that up for sending to the recycling center as well? Besides all that, you can't actually recycle what you're taking to them. Not only is it not what you say it is (making it real hard to recycle as such), but it's terrifically contaminated.

Perhaps we should all drive to avoid the environmental nightmare that is chain cleaning and lubing. I know cars certainly never drip anything other than the purest shimmering water. Thank god, too, because anything else would certainly be illegal.

When deciding how much to spend cleaning a chain, think about how much it costs just to buy a new one. Chains can be cheap--you can buy a decent 9-speed chain online for $11. Make sure you aren't spending $12 to clean an $11 chain.

Personally, I wipe mine down with a rag and lube it. I ususally go through a chain every 6 months, so more extensive cleaning is just a waste.

I agree with daily. Although on muddy or reall dry days I will sometimes do a little more work. But I use a chain cleaning tool.It gets it clean, then I dry and relube and it is 90% perfect compared to the way I used to do it (take it off and clean in a bucket or something and scrub)...

Good enough for me, chains are cheap and usually after a while they have to much lateral play for my dh bike anyways. (either that or I snap it)

I keep my chains clean and lubed, and when I do that (and not used wax based crap lubes) my chains last 12,000 miles on the average on the road bike, but this bike use's the wider chains which last longer then the newer narrow ones. But my mtb has the newer narrower chain and that bike has about 8,000 to 10,000 miles on it and the chain, but again cleaned and relubed frequently.

Morlok, You have WAAAAAY too much time on your hands :).

For a once-a-year job, do it right.
I ride on roads, not mountain trails (I WALK those
:) _

It's a coupla hours on a rainy weekend, and you can have a coupla other things going on at the same time.
I forget where I learned the technique, but I did pick it up somewhere else.
BTW, the paraffin works quite well as a lube.

An ultrasonic cleaner uh huh sure. What institution is crazy enough to allow this?


Well, medical laboratory. I don't have access to it every year, and it's certainly going over the top, but..if you got access to it, use it.
Ultrasound is used for more than baby pictures, ya no! :D

The home sized ones, for cleaning jewelry, not only won't handle the size, they will break!
There's a feed backprocess that occurs if you put too much mass in the well that overloads the element (somewhat like feedback in a microphone).

I find the rest of the process works well with or without the ultrasound, However.... it's jsu tone of those 'over the top' things to do that others think silly.
So be it :D :D