Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - A bunch of questions..

Should I buy a new seat? I ride a minimum of 70 miles a week, I wear bicycle shorts, and I have had a proper fit. The only thing stopping me from doing my first century is saddle and groin pain despite proper fit and quality bontrager cicyle shorts. If so, are there saddles that I can buy under $65?
Do any of you do spin classes? After doing my first class I quit after twenty minutes because of intense knee pain. Aerobically fit, but my knees cannot handle a spin bike for whatever reason. Should I continue spin classes or keep doing long rides?
I tried the "act like you are wiping mud off your shoe" tecnique to prevent bouncing when spinning at a high RPM but it doesn't seem to work. Should I just invest in clipless shoes? I have R540 pedals but no shoes, maybe that will help?
When riding on the road in a single lane, should I take up the whole lane, or should I ride on the shoulder to let drivers pass? The road is pretty narrow, so I feel like riding on the shoulder is dangerous and doesn't allow room to get out of the way of debris or what not. On the other hand, I feel like an ass taking up the whole lane going 10mph under the speed limit.


I apologize for all of the questions, but they have been bugging me for a few days now. I have a younger brother who rides with me and I cannot emphasize how important it is to NOT ride against traffic. I also want to up my maximum ride distance from 30 miles to 50, and then 50 to a century.

Thanks!

Groin pain? That is not good. Have you asked your Doc about that?
SOmething is wrong, maybe the saddle, maybe something else.

As far as riding goes, do what you need to do.
I'm slow, but if things get tight, I don't hesitate to take the lane.

Good one:

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=BUY_PRODUCT_STANDARD&PRODUCT.ID=9819&MODE=SPECIALS

Because you complain of groin and knee pain, I'd question whether you do have a proper fit, including 1. saddle height and 2.saddle fit and adjustment. I recommend correcting these problems before shopping for shoes. Shoes are secondary, having nothing to do with feelings of pain or discomfort in the groin and knees. I ride all the way to the right side of the lane when riding on the road. Look forward to see any problems on the road ahead and have enough reaction time to avoid them.

Because you complain of groin and knee pain, I'd question whether you do have a proper fit, including 1. saddle height and 2.saddle fit and adjustment. I recommend correcting these problems before shopping for shoes. Shoes are secondary, having nothing to do with feelings of pain or discomfort in the groin and knees. I ride all the way to the right side of the lane when riding on the road. Look forward to see any problems on the road ahead and have enough reaction time to avoid them.

I might stop by a new LBS that I haven't tried before and see if they can fit me any better. And $20 for a saddle seems almost too good to be true! :P

I might stop by a new LBS that I haven't tried before and see if they can fit me any better. And $20 for a saddle seems almost too good to be true! :P

I just bought one. They have some very good deals sometimes.

1. read thru the many threads here that address that.
3. pedals are great for mindless pedaling, but if you're already dealing with knee pain I would have to suggest eggbeater pedals or speedplay pedals.
4. the general rule is travel as far to right as you can. that doesn't mean a balancing act on the edge of the pavement but it doesn't mean you get the whole road, unless you're doing the speed limit or you've spotted debris up ahead that warrants a need for the whole lane. if you need a foot to feel safe then that's as far to right as you can go.

Should I buy a new seat? I ride a minimum of 70 miles a week, I wear bicycle shorts, and I have had a proper fit. The only thing stopping me from doing my first century is saddle and groin pain despite proper fit and quality bontrager cicyle shorts. If so, are there saddles that I can buy under $65?


Groin pain is pretty unusual! Find a bike shop that will let you demo saddles. What works for me may not work for you.




Do any of you do spin classes? After doing my first class I quit after twenty minutes because of intense knee pain. Aerobically fit, but my knees cannot handle a spin bike for whatever reason. Should I continue spin classes or keep doing long rides?


No, my wife does but I hate it. I've ridden the thing though, no pain at all. I don't like the inertia in the pedals, seems pretty hazardous.




I tried the "act like you are wiping mud off your shoe" tecnique to prevent bouncing when spinning at a high RPM but it doesn't seem to work. Should I just invest in clipless shoes? I have R540 pedals but no shoes, maybe that will help?


Wiping your shoes doesn't necessarily prevent bounce, it's just the best pedaling "form" (as opposed to riding tippy toed like some folks). High RPM pedaling takes practice. Lots of practice. And some coordination. A lower saddle will help ironically but will hurt other aspects of your cycling, so it's important to get the height right.




When riding on the road in a single lane, should I take up the whole lane, or should I ride on the shoulder to let drivers pass? The road is pretty narrow, so I feel like riding on the shoulder is dangerous and doesn't allow room to get out of the way of debris or what not. On the other hand, I feel like an ass taking up the whole lane going 10mph under the speed limit.


YMMV, but if there's no bike lane or shoulder, I like to ride far enough into the lane so that cars can't squeeze by me without having to move over a bit. I don't want to intentionally antagonize some 3-brain cell moron driver but I don't want them hitting me either out of sheer neglect.

Should I buy a new seat? I ride a minimum of 70 miles a week, I wear bicycle shorts, and I have had a proper fit. The only thing stopping me from doing my first century is saddle and groin pain despite proper fit and quality bontrager cicyle shorts. If so, are there saddles that I can buy under $65?
Thanks!


Unfortunately, finding the "right" saddle is something that can take more than one try. Some folks are lucky and can cycle forever on any old slab of wood you perch them on. Others of us, are not so fortunate. My first piece of advice is to NOT take groin pain lightly. I have a friend who is impotent due to ignoring discomfort and numbness "down there". Do what you can to find different saddles to try. Ask at your LBS if they have a box of "take offs" that you could work through to find something more suited to you. As for <$65, craigslist and fleabay are your friend.








Do any of you do spin classes? After doing my first class I quit after twenty minutes because of intense knee pain. Aerobically fit, but my knees cannot handle a spin bike for whatever reason. Should I continue spin classes or keep doing long rides?

Thanks!

Yes, I do the occassional spin class, as does Mrs. Fred. Again, don't ignore pain or discomfort. But, if you're comfortable cycling on the road, there isn't any reason why a "spin" bike should cause you pain. Check to make sure you've got your saddle correctly adjusted. Both vetically and laterally. If you're using straps on the spin bike, you're foot may not have been aligned properly. That could definately cause discomfort in short order. Don't try to push(mash) a too big gear.







I tried the "act like you are wiping mud off your shoe" tecnique to prevent bouncing when spinning at a high RPM but it doesn't seem to work. Should I just invest in clipless shoes? I have R540 pedals but no shoes, maybe that will help?


Thanks!

I didn't realize you were riding without any form of shoe retention. I take back most of what I've said about spinning and cadence. Most of it doesn't apply if you're using platform pedals and sneakers. If you're trying to ride with sneakers on those R540's the situation would be even less stable. Secondly, the "scrape and lift" drills are not something you do "while" trying to achieve high cadence. They are something you use to help train your muscles into spinning a complete circle, so that you have good technique and form when you "do" try to achieve high cadence. Without good form, high cadence looks like a sewing machine.

Yes, clipless pedals would definately help with trying to achieve some of what you hear us talking about. Just out of curiousity, on this mornings ride, I spun up a light gear on the waterfront(flat) and achieved 130 without losing much form. That's with 180mm cranks that supposedly limit your spinning ability. I know I've gone 170+rpm on the trainer and suspect that if I want to work on it, I could increase that on road cadence by a fair bit. But, really, cadences that high are most useful for sprinting. Which I don't have much need of.







When riding on the road in a single lane, should I take up the whole lane, or should I ride on the shoulder to let drivers pass? The road is pretty narrow, so I feel like riding on the shoulder is dangerous and doesn't allow room to get out of the way of debris or what not. On the other hand, I feel like an ass taking up the whole lane going 10mph under the speed limit.

Thanks!


Mate, it all depends. I ride to the side, UNLESS, my personal safety dictate that I move over. When I say "the side" I'm talking about the 1.5meters nearest the edge of the road. I have no problem behaving as though I own that 5 feet. Then, if there's some extenuating circumstance that would make it unwise to allow traffic to pass, I'll move further into the lane. Usually for short periods of time. Always in a deliberate and predictable way. Usually, motorist understand why. Very rarely do I hear anything out of them.



I apologize for all of the questions, but they have been bugging me for a few days now. I have a younger brother who rides with me and I cannot emphasize how important it is to NOT ride against traffic. I also want to up my maximum ride distance from 30 miles to 50, and then 50 to a century.

Thanks!

Yep, keep encouraging your brother to ride safely. With regard to ride lengths, if a century is you goal, pick one that is at least 14 weeks away. Committ to that and then we'll have some really basic training plans that will see you complete that goal.

I ride to the side, UNLESS, my personal safety dictate that I move over. When I say "the side" I'm talking about the 1.5meters nearest the edge of the road. I have no problem behaving as though I own that 5 feet. Then, if there's some extenuating circumstance that would make it unwise to allow traffic to pass, I'll move further into the lane. Usually for short periods of time. Always in a deliberate and predictable way. Usually, motorist understand why. Very rarely do I hear anything out of them.

Excellent advice, IMO.

OP, the thing to note here is that riding "to the side" does not mean hugging the kerb. You need to be visible, to give yourself room to manoeuvre, and to discourage drivers from thinking they can squeeze past you in tight spots. So riding roughly where the nearside wheel tracks are, about three feet into the lane, is a sensible starting point from which you can move as circumstances and courtesy dictate.

If you visit the advocacy and safety forums, and especially the vehicular cycling sub-forum, you'll find a string of very heated arguments about this. But everything depends on context. If the shoulder is wide and clear, great. Use it. If not, regard it as your bail-out option and stay in the lane. if you are in the way of a long queue of increasingly impatient traffic, you might consider pulling over, stopping and letting them go. If it's just a question of them being patient for a minute or two, assert yourself. And so on...

Should I buy a new seat? I ride a minimum of 70 miles a week, I wear bicycle shorts, and I have had a proper fit. The only thing stopping me from doing my first century is saddle and groin pain despite proper fit and quality bontrager cicyle shorts. If so, are there saddles that I can buy under $65?
Do any of you do spin classes? After doing my first class I quit after twenty minutes because of intense knee pain. Aerobically fit, but my knees cannot handle a spin bike for whatever reason. Should I continue spin classes or keep doing long rides?
I tried the "act like you are wiping mud off your shoe" tecnique to prevent bouncing when spinning at a high RPM but it doesn't seem to work. Should I just invest in clipless shoes? I have R540 pedals but no shoes, maybe that will help?
When riding on the road in a single lane, should I take up the whole lane, or should I ride on the shoulder to let drivers pass? The road is pretty narrow, so I feel like riding on the shoulder is dangerous and doesn't allow room to get out of the way of debris or what not. On the other hand, I feel like an ass taking up the whole lane going 10mph under the speed limit.


I apologize for all of the questions, but they have been bugging me for a few days now. I have a younger brother who rides with me and I cannot emphasize how important it is to NOT ride against traffic. I also want to up my maximum ride distance from 30 miles to 50, and then 50 to a century.

Thanks!

1- I had the same issue until I went to the Brookes Saddle. Will it help you? I am not sure but it did for me.
2- I hate spinning class. I would rather shoot myself to be frank. I love riding outside and did it all winter but we had no snow. I might do it in the snow when we get some but we will see. If I so not, I will hit the gym and also get a trainer. I hate spin class because the fit sucks on the bikes, period.
4- I take up enough room to feel OK about it.

4 - If there is only occasional traffic do what is necessary to be safe. If there is moderate to high traffic don't take that road.

1. Try different saddles to aleviate saddle discomfort. Finding the right saddle is a crapshoot, and while you can find cheap saddles, the chances of them being satisfactory decrease along with the price, IME. Groin pain, OTOH, is not likely tied to saddle design, but is more likely either a fit issue, or the result of a physical ailment. I agree with those who say you should see a fitter and/or a doc.

2. I'm not a fan of spin classes. I attend them in the winter, only because I dislike riding in the cold. I also think some of what the instructors would have us do is neither helpful nor healthy. I think of them as something to help me prepare for riding on the road, which means two things - one, I don't risk injury. If I injure myself doing what I love, so be it, but I won't put myself in that position while prepping to do something I love. And two, when weather permits, I will be on the road and never in spin class.

3. Are you saying you're using R540 pedals without cleated shoes? Aren't R540s SPD-SL pedals? How in the world are you keeping your feet on them to begin with? As far as your bouncing problem goes, though, it will improve with high-rpm practice.

4. I ride to the right, but never so far as to risk bad pavement, or road debris, And any place my safety would be endangered by a vehicle pulling alongside, I take the lane to prevent it. Like at an intersection where a motorist is likely to turn right and cut you off.

Should I buy a new seat? I ride a minimum of 70 miles a week, I wear bicycle shorts, and I have had a proper fit. The only thing stopping me from doing my first century is saddle and groin pain despite proper fit and quality bontrager cicyle shorts. If so, are there saddles that I can buy under $65?

Im in the same boat as you brother. i even tried wear two pairs of bike shorts at the same time. didnt work. but the pain in the groin, yikes, try tilting your nose down a slight bit untill you get a new saddle. i bought a new saddle and on both ride i got numb bits, took it off right away, i dont mess with "down there"


I tried the "act like you are wiping mud off your shoe" tecnique to prevent bouncing when spinning at a high RPM but it doesn't seem to work. Should I just invest in clipless shoes? I have R540 pedals but no shoes, maybe that will help?

It takes time (more than a week that you have been trying) to get the bouncing in check. keep working at it and it will be second nature. clipless helps a tad but not worth buying just for that aspect.
When i take my road bike to work i ride in dress shoes and i dont bounce unless i get to 115rpms, so its not really the shoes its the practice.


When riding on the road in a single lane, should I take up the whole lane, or should I ride on the shoulder to let drivers pass? The road is pretty narrow, so I feel like riding on the shoulder is dangerous and doesn't allow room to get out of the way of debris or what not. On the other hand, I feel like an ass taking up the whole lane going 10mph under the speed limit.

take the lane when needed, but personally i will route myself around those roads even if it takes me 3 miles the wrong way. I know how you feel, but a 1-2 minute inconvenience in a car is nothing but you fixing a flat, or bending a rim, or taking a wipe out is worse.

Should I buy a new seat? ...
Do any of you do spin classes? ...
... Should I just invest in clipless shoes? I have R540 pedals but no shoes, maybe that will help?
When riding on the road in a single lane, should I take up the whole lane, or should I ride on the shoulder to let drivers pass? ...



These answers are an echo of previous ones.
1. Before investing in a new seat, I would question your fit. Professional fits are around a hundred bucks. If your bike is not comfortable, you won't be riding it very much longer. It is a worthwhile investment.
2. I have personally never taken a spin class.
3. Yes. As mentioned, R540 pedals are SPD-SL. I cannot ride without being clipped in, and have done so since about 1966.
4. Ride as far to the right as safety will allow. Only go to the left of a lane if you are approaching an intersection where you will be making a left turn. If so, be sure to signal those behind you of your intentions.

I have mixed emotions as far as spin classes. They're a great way to work your aerobic system. The downside is the flywheel effect of the machines really hurt my pedalling form. The instructors add in some stuff that has no use in actually riding a bike. I think the reason for this is to combat boredom. Since you're in Florida I'd just ride my bike. Next winter, I plan to spend down there doing that.

When riding on the road in a single lane, should I take up the whole lane, or should I ride on the shoulder to let drivers pass? The road is pretty narrow, so I feel like riding on the shoulder is dangerous and doesn't allow room to get out of the way of debris or what not. On the other hand, I feel like an ass taking up the whole lane going 10mph under the speed limit.

Do an internet search of applicable laws in your jurisdiction. Many state traffic codes require you to use the shoulder when there is one but allow you to ride outside the shoudler if necessary to avoid hazards. Where no shoulder exisists, many codes require you ride as far to thr right as safety will permit. I doubt that is nterpreted to mean you can ride in the middle of the road when there is nothing preventing you from riding further right simply because you fear not having enough time to avoid hazards that you might encounter.

Your field of vision and acknowledgement should extend a ways out so you can see road upcoming road hazads. Sounds like you could benefit from a riding skills course.

Should I buy a new seat? I ride a minimum of 70 miles a week, I wear bicycle shorts, and I have had a proper fit. The only thing stopping me from doing my first century is saddle and groin pain despite proper fit and quality bontrager cicyle shorts. If so, are there saddles that I can buy under $65?
I tried the "act like you are wiping mud off your shoe" tecnique to prevent bouncing when spinning at a high RPM but it doesn't seem to work. Should I just invest in clipless shoes? I have R540 pedals but no shoes, maybe that will help?





1. I've read a lot of good reviews about Specialized's "Riva" seat which retails for $29. On the other hand, I hear a lot of complaints about Bontrager seats, which is what you probably have on your 1.2.

2. Are you at least wearing cleats? If you're riding R-540 pedals without cleats, it's no wonder you can't get a good cadence going. You're doing well to keep your feet from slipping off. :eek:

What I meant was I have R540's that I can install if I want, all I would need are the shoes. Right now I ride platform MTB pedals.

Groin pain? That is not good. Have you asked your Doc about that?


Definitely. Rule out hernia or hip issue before spending money on saddles, etc.

My best advice (and I mean this in a positive manner) is go ride more. Stop worrying about wheels, saddles, cadences, body building,spinning, or the host of other questions and go ride.

I find most answers come from doing.

For some people.

My best advice (and I mean this in a positive manner) is go ride more. Stop worrying about wheels, saddles, cadences, body building,spinning, or the host of other questions and go ride.


hard to go ride when your saddle has been created by the most sinister and twisted human being that is probably my evil twin separated at birth who i stole his highschool sweetheart and i kicked his dog.

of the three points that touch a bike a clyde and his saddle are paramount.

My best advice (and I mean this in a positive manner) is go ride more. Stop worrying about wheels, saddles, cadences, body building,spinning, or the host of other questions and go ride.

I find most answers come from doing.

Did you ride this one?

http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/hh187/10wheels/Got%20It%20Evolve%20saddle/?albumview=slideshow

is THAT a saddle or a bike lock?

My best advice (and I mean this in a positive manner) is go ride more. Stop worrying about wheels, saddles, cadences, body building,spinning, or the host of other questions and go ride.

I find most answers come from doing.

I do ride, but I enjoy asking questions and posting on bikeforums. And if you have wheels that won't hold up during a long ride, or an extremely uncomfortable saddle causing problems, you can't ride.

I guess I have to ask: What do you mean by groin pain? There are a bunch of different structures there, and different stuff can be going on depending on what the pain is.

If it's the feeling of numbness/tingling - like when a limb falls asleep, it may mean a number of things: Saddle too narrow. Saddle too soft and "conforming". Saddle too low relative to bars, putting too much weight on the perineum. It can also mean that not enough of your weight is being supported by your legs. In general, but especially on a long ride, you don't want to sit with your weight primarily on the saddle - you should be supported by your legs and, to a lesser extent, your arms (though too much of that causes pain in the wrists, etc). It's also a good idea, if you're experiencing numbness, to get up out of the saddle every minute or so, to give the area a break.

If you mean a pain more like bruising around the genitals or feeling like you just got kicked in the nuts, that could mean saddle too high relative to handlebars, saddle pointed too far up, saddle too far back (so you're sliding forward and riding on the nose).

I just bought a second-hand bike that had one of the Terry saddles with a big cutout in it. I know opinions on these things are mixed, but considering that the bike gives a pretty upright ride (which means more weight on the saddle), I can't believe how comfortable that saddle is, even for rides of two hours. You may be a good candidate for a saddle with a cutout...

I guess I have to ask: What do you mean by groin pain? There are a bunch of different structures there, and different stuff can be going on depending on what the pain is.

If it's the feeling of numbness/tingling - like when a limb falls asleep, it may mean a number of things: Saddle too narrow. Saddle too soft and "conforming". Saddle too low relative to bars, putting too much weight on the perineum. It can also mean that not enough of your weight is being supported by your legs. In general, but especially on a long ride, you don't want to sit with your weight primarily on the saddle - you should be supported by your legs and, to a lesser extent, your arms (though too much of that causes pain in the wrists, etc). It's also a good idea, if you're experiencing numbness, to get up out of the saddle every minute or so, to give the area a break.

If you mean a pain more like bruising around the genitals or feeling like you just got kicked in the nuts, that could mean saddle too high relative to handlebars, saddle pointed too far up, saddle too far back (so you're sliding forward and riding on the nose).

I just bought a second-hand bike that had one of the Terry saddles with a big cutout in it. I know opinions on these things are mixed, but considering that the bike gives a pretty upright ride (which means more weight on the saddle), I can't believe how comfortable that saddle is, even for rides of two hours. You may be a good candidate for a saddle with a cutout...

The best way I can explain it is this -- think of a garden hose. Now imagine squeezing that garden hose in relation to the "southern" area. It feels sore, like there is too much pressure on the "garden hose" and groin area. My saddle is a Bontrager SSR and it is about half an inch lower than my drop bars. Could this be the issue? I heard the brooks saddle with the cutout (the imperial?) would be a great choice.

The best way I can explain it is this -- think of a garden hose. Now imagine squeezing that garden hose in relation to the "southern" area. It feels sore, like there is too much pressure on the "garden hose" and groin area. My saddle is a Bontrager SSR and it is about half an inch lower than my drop bars. Could this be the issue? I heard the brooks saddle with the cutout (the imperial?) would be a great choice.

I recall seeing a picture of your bike when you got it. Out of curiousity, what is your cycling inseam? And, what is the distance from the center of your bottom bracket to the top of your saddle in line along the center of your seatpost? I think mostly in mm or cm, but, can deal with inches if that's all you've got for a tape measure.

I recall seeing a picture of your bike when you got it. Out of curiousity, what is your cycling inseam? And, what is the distance from the center of your bottom bracket to the top of your saddle in line along the center of your seatpost? I think mostly in mm or cm, but, can deal with inches if that's all you've got for a tape measure.

Because of the deal I took it even though I am 32" inseam and the owner said he was 33" and the bike was 60cm. Although every part of it is comfortable, I have the groin issues. I really don't want to sell it, so I don't know if a new saddle will help. Will a bike only slightly bigger really have that big of an impact? Because when I got it I figured it wouldn't be a big deal at all.

Because of the deal I took it even though I am 32" inseam and the owner said he was 33" and the bike was 60cm. Although every part of it is comfortable, I have the groin issues. I really don't want to sell it, so I don't know if a new saddle will help. Will a bike only slightly bigger really have that big of an impact? Because when I got it I figured it wouldn't be a big deal at all.

Too large a frame sure won't help, but I doubt it's the cause of your discomfort, unless you've already lowered the saddle all the way and you're still struggling to reach the pedals. The bigger issue with marginally out-sized frames is a longer top tube, putting the bars farther out of reach and messing with your position/posture.

I'm still having a bit of difficulty understanding the nature of the discomfort. When I think of groin pain, I think of pain in the musculature from the crotch area down into the inside of the thigh. I get the feeling from your description it's more of a genital issue. Is that right? How old are you? I ask because if you're old enough to be into enlarged prostate territory, some saddles (and their positions) can exacerbate the problem causing increased pressure on the bladder and a feeling of having to urinate. At least they have for me. Of course, if I completely misunderstood your description, then you can ignore all that. :D

It sounds like a shorter stem might help here - your frame might be a little big for you, and you're too stretched out and have too much weight on the "garden hose" area (and the surrounding plumbing).

I assume we're talking about the Trek 1.2.

I wear pants with a 32" inseam and ride a 60 cm Trek Madone. It seems strange to me that your saddle would be lower than the tops of your handlebars. I just measured mine and the seat is 3 1/2" higher than the tops. I believe they're both H2 fits as far as frame geo. A 4 inch lower seat height seems excessive.

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/_M0d_M0par1946/2012-03-30_19-20-26_384.jpg
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/_M0d_M0par1946/2012-03-30_19-20-00_618.jpg
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/_M0d_M0par1946/2012-03-30_19-21-39_100.jpg
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/_M0d_M0par1946/2012-03-30_19-21-14_149.jpg
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/_M0d_M0par1946/2012-03-30_19-20-57_584.jpg
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/_M0d_M0par1946/2012-03-30_19-20-45_589.jpg
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/_M0d_M0par1946/2012-03-30_19-20-36_389.jpg

Is this still the configuration? Have you raised or lowered the saddle since these photos were taken?

Is 32" your pants size or your "cycling inseam"?

If that's the bike I can see why there's so much difference. Spacers and extreme stem angle.

After seeing the pics, I take it back about suggesting the shorter stem. I'm stumped, other than thinking that the saddle is awfully long and skinny - I couldn't ride one like that.

I want a stem like that! It looks effectively really short.

Craig, Ax is 18. He is our baby Clyde.

Craig, Ax is 18. He is our baby Clyde.

Well, forget what I said about the prostate then. When you get to be my age you see things through a decidedly different lens.

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m596/hessejef/up.jpg

Trousers too low.

I took those pictures after I got it, so that was the setup the original owner had. I swapped the seat out for a Bontrager SSR, and I had the seat lowered about an inch. The fitting I got was only $25 so I kind of regret spending the money since I still have fit issues. Oh, I also switched out those R540's with Bontrager platform pedals. The owner said he had a stem extender? maybe if I get that removed it would help? And 32" is my inseam.


Trousers too low.

I always keep my pants pulled up, so I don't think that is the issue.

And, what's the saddle height?

1) Yes you should buy a new saddle but you have to find the correct size and shaped one for your build. good luck with that. Many people here including myself are pleased with the offerings from fizik, unfortunately $65 wont cut it, more like $100. I have an antares.

2) No need for a spin class in my book. especially if you dont benefit from it and it causes you pain.

3) Yes, get clipless pedals and shoes. I ride speedplay lite actions with diadora shoes. total price $150ish. speedplay have alot of "float" in their design, thats to say that you foot isnt stuck onto the pedal at one angle, you have some clockwise/counterclockwise rotation before it unclips. this alleviates alot of knee pain caused by other pedal systems. clipless pedals are not made for walking in so they are all tricky off the bike but speedplay may be the "trickiest". you will want a pair of cleat covers if you plan on spending any time off the bike. ($10)

4) No you should not take up the whole lane when you are riding straight. If you are turning left, then yes you should move from the right shoulder to the left turning lane but then get back to the right shoulder after your through the turn. When You re coming up on a stop sign or a red light in traffic it is acceptable for you to take the lane like a car for added visibility and to avoid the "right hook".

Your 18 with no back issues and you lowered the seat 1 inch since the picture?

the set up is all wrong, you are sitting way to upright on a saddle that isnt made for upright sitting. That stem needs to go, and go fast. and you need to smack the $25 fitter for letting you out of the bike shop without telling you this.

i will forgive you for having a white sheet over your chair because your 18 years old.

Should I buy a new seat? I ride a minimum of 70 miles a week, I wear bicycle shorts, and I have had a proper fit. The only thing stopping me from doing my first century is saddle and groin pain despite proper fit and quality bontrager cicyle shorts. If so, are there saddles that I can buy under $65?
Do any of you do spin classes? After doing my first class I quit after twenty minutes because of intense knee pain. Aerobically fit, but my knees cannot handle a spin bike for whatever reason. Should I continue spin classes or keep doing long rides?
I tried the "act like you are wiping mud off your shoe" tecnique to prevent bouncing when spinning at a high RPM but it doesn't seem to work. Should I just invest in clipless shoes? I have R540 pedals but no shoes, maybe that will help?
When riding on the road in a single lane, should I take up the whole lane, or should I ride on the shoulder to let drivers pass? The road is pretty narrow, so I feel like riding on the shoulder is dangerous and doesn't allow room to get out of the way of debris or what not. On the other hand, I feel like an ass taking up the whole lane going 10mph under the speed limit.


I apologize for all of the questions, but they have been bugging me for a few days now. I have a younger brother who rides with me and I cannot emphasize how important it is to NOT ride against traffic. I also want to up my maximum ride distance from 30 miles to 50, and then 50 to a century.

Thanks!


1) Try out a variety of saddles. I prefer Brooks myself, but they're all over the $65 mark you mention. Saddles are a highly personal thing, so you should try out a bunch. Most bike shops will let you try one out before buying.
2) I've never tried spin classes, but if you are experiencing knee pain it's probably a fit issue. See if you can adjust the seat more. More experience cycling will let you know if the seat is too low or too high. For me personally, if the pain is at the top of my knee cap, I raise the seat, if it's at the bottom, I lower the seat.
3) I recommend clipless. My average cadence jumped by about 12 going from platform to clipless, from about 78 to 90. I could never even approach 100rpm on platforms, but now I routinely get up to 110 on intervals before my lungs tell me to stop or I'm going to die.
4) If the shoulder feels dangerous, take the lane. Your safety is more important than making a driver behind you 30 seconds later to his destination. They will pass when it's safe.

I really appreciate all of the help! :)

I plan on visiting a different LBS in a couple of days and look at a new stem and seat. I will also raise the seat and get a professional fit by the end of this month. And it looks like Brooks of F'iziki (I believe this is how you spell it) will be the two main brands of saddles I'll be looking at.

Axiom,

Don't make seat adjustments based on a bunch of speculation from us, when you haven't even provided the pertinent details with regard to what your current seat height is. If you actually want to attempt a decent "internet" fit. Get a friend to help take your "cycling measurements". Follow the instructions on Competitive Cyclist's fit calculator. That will give you some rough starting points. Then, measure where your bike is set right now. Compare the two. Then, before making any adjustments. Get on said bike while on a wind trainer, rollers or even leaning against the wall and get the same friend to take a couple photos of your self, in riding position, with the cranks parallel to the ground and with the crank and your leg at full extension(in line with the seat tube). Make sure your heel is roughly at the height it would be while cycling. Repeat these photos with your hands on the flats, hoods and drops.

From that, the collective here will be able to give you a pretty good idea of where you might want to consider making fit adjustments. It's not rocket science. Not at the begining stages, at least.

With regard to pedals. If you're going to continue to use your bike for commuting to class and/or work, leave the platform pedals on, so you can ride in sneakers or other non cycling footwear. Typicaly with platform pedals your seat height will be slightly lower than it would be with cycling shoes (which tend to be designed with a false high heal). Also, your ability to spin in sneakers and in the absence of foot retention will be slightly limited, due to the fact that you can't effectively scrape and lift. If I were going to make a recommendation with regard to pedals while maintaining the bikes commuting function, it would be to invest in clip and straps for the platforms you have. Or, purchase platforms that can accomodate clips and straps. This would allow you to ride with any street shoe you choose and still achieve an improved pedal stroke over platforms alone.

Don't limit yourself to Brooks and F'zi'k(Sp?). Just find what works for you. I ride Selle Italia and have for years. A friend of similiar proportion rides San Marcos. Specialized make a good range of widths. Saddles are an extremely personal fit issue and no one on the internet knows what shape your sit bones are. Sit bone shape has little to do with weight. Weight is just the exterior coverage. Underneith their is your skeleton and thats what needs to be accomodated.

Hope this helps,

Axiom,

Don't make seat adjustments based on a bunch of speculation from us, when you haven't even provided the pertinent details with regard to what your current seat height is. If you actually want to attempt a decent "internet" fit. Get a friend to help take your "cycling measurements". Follow the instructions on Competitive Cyclist's fit calculator. That will give you some rough starting points. Then, measure where your bike is set right now. Compare the two. Then, before making any adjustments. Get on said bike while on a wind trainer, rollers or even leaning against the wall and get the same friend to take a couple photos of your self, in riding position, with the cranks parallel to the ground and with the crank and your leg at full extension(in line with the seat tube). Make sure your heel is roughly at the height it would be while cycling. Repeat these photos with your hands on the flats, hoods and drops.

From that, the collective here will be able to give you a pretty good idea of where you might want to consider making fit adjustments. It's not rocket science. Not at the begining stages, at least.

With regard to pedals. If you're going to continue to use your bike for commuting to class and/or work, leave the platform pedals on, so you can ride in sneakers or other non cycling footwear. Typicaly with platform pedals your seat height will be slightly lower than it would be with cycling shoes (which tend to be designed with a false high heal). Also, your ability to spin in sneakers and in the absence of foot retention will be slightly limited, due to the fact that you can't effectively scrape and lift. If I were going to make a recommendation with regard to pedals while maintaining the bikes commuting function, it would be to invest in clip and straps for the platforms you have. Or, purchase platforms that can accomodate clips and straps. This would allow you to ride with any street shoe you choose and still achieve an improved pedal stroke over platforms alone.

Don't limit yourself to Brooks and F'zi'k(Sp?). Just find what works for you. I ride Selle Italia and have for years. A friend of similiar proportion rides San Marcos. Specialized make a good range of widths. Saddles are an extremely personal fit issue and no one on the internet knows what shape your sit bones are. Sit bone shape has little to do with weight. Weight is just the exterior coverage. Underneith their is your skeleton and thats what needs to be accomodated.

Hope this helps,


Sage advice here ^^

Axiom,

Don't make seat adjustments based on a bunch of speculation from us, when you haven't even provided the pertinent details with regard to what your current seat height is. If you actually want to attempt a decent "internet" fit. Get a friend to help take your "cycling measurements". Follow the instructions on Competitive Cyclist's fit calculator. That will give you some rough starting points. Then, measure where your bike is set right now. Compare the two. Then, before making any adjustments. Get on said bike while on a wind trainer, rollers or even leaning against the wall and get the same friend to take a couple photos of your self, in riding position, with the cranks parallel to the ground and with the crank and your leg at full extension(in line with the seat tube). Make sure your heel is roughly at the height it would be while cycling. Repeat these photos with your hands on the flats, hoods and drops.

From that, the collective here will be able to give you a pretty good idea of where you might want to consider making fit adjustments. It's not rocket science. Not at the begining stages, at least.

With regard to pedals. If you're going to continue to use your bike for commuting to class and/or work, leave the platform pedals on, so you can ride in sneakers or other non cycling footwear. Typicaly with platform pedals your seat height will be slightly lower than it would be with cycling shoes (which tend to be designed with a false high heal). Also, your ability to spin in sneakers and in the absence of foot retention will be slightly limited, due to the fact that you can't effectively scrape and lift. If I were going to make a recommendation with regard to pedals while maintaining the bikes commuting function, it would be to invest in clip and straps for the platforms you have. Or, purchase platforms that can accomodate clips and straps. This would allow you to ride with any street shoe you choose and still achieve an improved pedal stroke over platforms alone.

Don't limit yourself to Brooks and F'zi'k(Sp?). Just find what works for you. I ride Selle Italia and have for years. A friend of similiar proportion rides San Marcos. Specialized make a good range of widths. Saddles are an extremely personal fit issue and no one on the internet knows what shape your sit bones are. Sit bone shape has little to do with weight. Weight is just the exterior coverage. Underneith their is your skeleton and thats what needs to be accomodated.

Hope this helps,

I will have a friend assist me tomorrow and do exactly what you suggested. And you are right, it's not rocket science. However, ever time I mention something about what I have learned when it comes to cycling I have someone else tell me something differently, so it's hard to take advice if I am not sure whether or not it is correct -- though your advice seems sounds and logical unlike the advice some local riders and local bike shops give.. :lol:

I will have a friend assist me tomorrow and do exactly what you suggested. And you are right, it's not rocket science. However, ever time I mention something about what I have learned when it comes to cycling I have someone else tell me something differently, so it's hard to take advice if I am not sure whether or not it is correct -- though your advice seems sounds and logical unlike the advice some local riders and local bike shops give.. :lol:

Just make sure that whoever is taking the photos is holding the camera at approximately the same height as the vertical mid-point of you on the bike (they might have to get down on one knee or hold the camera close to the height of the top tube) and they're straight back from your bottom bracket(close to 90 angle from the bike). This way you'll avoid any perspective distortion in the photo and it will be easier to see exactly what is going on.

This would be a good example:
248440

This would not be as good, due to the camera not being at a 90 degree angle to the bike (too far in front of the bike) and holding the camera too high:
248441