General Cycling Discussion - Keep old bikes as is, upgrade, or buy something new?

I have been away from cycling for the last 18 months but I ready to get back to riding. I currently have two bikes. A '97 Bianchi Advantage hybrid (chro moly frame, 7 speed AceraX/Alivio, gripshift) and a mid 80s Schwinn Le Tour Luxe Touring bike (Suntour group components, downtube friction shifters, 6 speed freewheel, triple on front.) Both bikes are set up with SPD pedals. Both bikes are in decent, rideable shape. The Bianchi was tuned up a few years ago and the Schwinn completely tuned up and overhauled by a LBS 4 years ago. So aside from some minor adjustments, both bikes are pretty much in rideable condition.

So, I realize that I have some work to do to get back into riding shape. What that means to me is, weekend rides of 30 to 40 miles, and weeknight rides of 15 or so miles. Riding is almost exclusively road or paved trails, though I have occasionally done dirt or crushed limestone trails. 4 or 5 years ago, that is what I did with the Bianchi, though I found that even when I was in good riding shape, 30 or 40 miles was about the limit for the Bianchi, which is why I bought the Schwinn.

Thing is, I think I am done with the C & V thing, and especially the whole downtube shifting. Also, even 18 months ago, I had trouble riding the Schwinn in the drops. I thought about trying to modernize the Schwinn, but my other thought is to sell it as is and put the money towards something like a Salsa Casseroll, perhaps fitted with wood chipper bars or some sort of modified drop bar that I could actually use.

So, modify the Schwinn, buy something new like the Salsa, or maybe a Kona Jake, or just ride the hell out of the Bianchi?

What is the problem with the drops? If it is simply that you are out of shape, that will come back - and anyway, for ordinary riding on a touring bike I don't spend that much time in the drops, using them mostly for headwinds or just for variety.

Personally I'd suggest you ride what you've got to get yourself back in shape. At that point you can evaluate what you feel about the current bikes, and more importantly, you'll be better able to assess what you might want in a new bike.

One thing I wouldn't recommend is immediately spending the money on modifying the Schwinn. A new groupset is expensive, and you'd need a new wheelset - well, at least a new rear wheel - to accommodate it. For that money you could pretty much have a new bike.

I have been away from cycling for the last 18 months but I ready to get back to riding. I currently have two bikes. A '97 Bianchi Advantage hybrid (chro moly frame, 7 speed AceraX/Alivio, gripshift) and a mid 80s Schwinn Le Tour Luxe Touring bike (Suntour group components, downtube friction shifters, 6 speed freewheel, triple on front.) Both bikes are set up with SPD pedals. Both bikes are in decent, rideable shape. The Bianchi was tuned up a few years ago and the Schwinn completely tuned up and overhauled by a LBS 4 years ago. So aside from some minor adjustments, both bikes are pretty much in rideable condition.

So, I realize that I have some work to do to get back into riding shape. What that means to me is, weekend rides of 30 to 40 miles, and weeknight rides of 15 or so miles. Riding is almost exclusively road or paved trails, though I have occasionally done dirt or crushed limestone trails. 4 or 5 years ago, that is what I did with the Bianchi, though I found that even when I was in good riding shape, 30 or 40 miles was about the limit for the Bianchi, which is why I bought the Schwinn.

Thing is, I think I am done with the C & V thing, and especially the whole downtube shifting. Also, even 18 months ago, I had trouble riding the Schwinn in the drops. I thought about trying to modernize the Schwinn, but my other thought is to sell it as is and put the money towards something like a Salsa Casseroll, perhaps fitted with wood chipper bars or some sort of modified drop bar that I could actually use.

So, modify the Schwinn, buy something new like the Salsa, or maybe a Kona Jake, or just ride the hell out of the Bianchi?

I have been in a simular situation as you. But it was after I got back into cycling for about 4 years. I started looking for a more classic backup bike for a N+1. The search was a bit harder than I thought it would be because I had several spare wheels I could use that were set up for 8-9-10 speed hubs. That meant I needed a rear axle setting of 130 rather than the classic 126. So whatever you decide on just remember it is easier to upgrade a more modern frame. I won't get into trying to cold set a old steel frame. If it were me I would keep the Bianchi and replace the Le Tour with something newer or with newer equipment. Just my opinion, and I ended up going with Klein with 130 rear drop outs.

I would not suggest modernizing an old frame unless there is something special about it. (sentimental value, wonderful ride, classic model ....) Otherwise go for a modern bike of some sort from the start.

Keep one of your bikes for a rain/winter/commuting bike.

@ Homebrew01. Not sentimental over it. I bought the Schwinn on CL, had it overhauled at a LBS. I thought about modernizing it back then, but the guy at LBS suggested just basic things like tires, brakes, and parts that were actually worn out, which were surprisingly few. It is a classic, lugged chro moly frame, but is it a stone, cold classic as it sits? Don't know. I figured that if I can find the right buyer, I should be able to get at least a couple of hundred for it, maybe more.

@ chasm 54. With bar ends, the Bianchi gives me 3 hand positions. In theory, a drop bar should also offer at least 3 hand positions, though I find riding the tops hard on my shoulders and riding the drops, hard on my back. Yes, I am out of shape right now so I agree, I need to ride more before making a purchasing decision.

@ mobile155. Thanks for the advise. I think you are right about the Schwinn. I bought it on a lark, at this point I am in it for a couple of hundred, but I think as it sits, I might just about break even if I can find the right buyer.

Run what ya brung! I would be riding the hell out of the Bianchi, try a handle bar swap if you need a change up. FWIW I have wayyyyy to many bikes (30+ :o) most are vintage, but that is what I prefer to ride. Get in better shape then decide if you really want an upgrade.

Aaron :)

Once you lose some weight and firm up, you'd be surprised as to how much your bike's performance improves. ;)

You've got some really nice bikes...Keep 'em! :thumb:

Thanks guys. Appreciate the feedback. Looks like the consensus so far is to stick with the Bianchi, sell the Schwinn, and hold off on any new purchases. I was wondering if anyone thought it made sense to modernize or upgrade the Schwinn, but so far the consensus is no.

Much as I respect the advice I get from my LBS(s), every one of those guys happens to have a bike or three that will outperform my old rides.

Thanks guys. Appreciate the feedback. Looks like the consensus so far is to stick with the Bianchi, sell the Schwinn, and hold off on any new purchases. I was wondering if anyone thought it made sense to modernize or upgrade the Schwinn, but so far the consensus is no.

Much as I respect the advice I get from my LBS(s), every one of those guys happens to have a bike or three that will outperform my old rides.

Just one more point. If you already have tried CL then look there again for something with STI shifters and at least 8 rear cogs. That way if you fall in love with the machine it will be easier to upgrade and keep when the N+1 urge hits you. Lots of people but some pretty good road bikes and never ride them. Look for Giant OCRs, what they made before the Defy, maybe a Cannondale, Early Trek, Specialized or a Jamis Ventura anything made to take a 8-9-10 speed hub. If you get something that is the right size for you and a bit more relaxed like the OCR the drop from the saddle to the top of the ramps will be higher and easier on your back. Flip the stem up and you might find the drops are easier as well. Just remember maybe half to 70 percent of the people that buy new bikes give up riding in the first year. Hold out for a clean bike and you could be on your way. If you have questions simply come back and ask.

Just one more point. If you already have tried CL then look there again for something with STI shifters and at least 8 rear cogs. That way if you fall in love with the machine it will be easier to upgrade and keep when the N+1 urge hits you. Lots of people but some pretty good road bikes and never ride them. Look for Giant OCRs, what they made before the Defy, maybe a Cannondale, Early Trek, Specialized or a Jamis Ventura anything made to take a 8-9-10 speed hub. If you get something that is the right size for you and a bit more relaxed like the OCR the drop from the saddle to the top of the ramps will be higher and easier on your back. Flip the stem up and you might find the drops are easier as well. Just remember maybe half to 70 percent of the people that buy new bikes give up riding in the first year. Hold out for a clean bike and you could be on your way. If you have questions simply come back and ask.

I hear you, and will keep my eye out on CL for a modern road bike, cyclo cross, or touring bike that might be a substantial upgrade.

Whatever bikes you currently have-Ride them. It will take a while to get your fitness back and if you work hard enough should be by the end of Summer. Keep the bikes running and decide what you need in a bike- different size- different style- better components.

Then come Autumn and the 2012 bikes will have to be shifted by the dealers at a good price for you. By that time you will have found out that your current bikes do the job you want from them- OR NOT.

Whatever bikes you currently have-Ride them. It will take a while to get your fitness back and if you work hard enough should be by the end of Summer. Keep the bikes running and decide what you need in a bike- different size- different style- better components.

Then come Autumn and the 2012 bikes will have to be shifted by the dealers at a good price for you. By that time you will have found out that your current bikes do the job you want from them- OR NOT.

Thanks for the reality check. You are correct that it may take several months to get back to where I was even 2 years ago, or even 4 or 5 years ago. Your advice also reminded me of a group ride I did about 4 years ago back when I was much fitter. That summer, I did a Saturday group ride every weekend over the summer. I consider it a point of pride that I finished every group ride I went on, including one particularly hot day we set out on a 40 mile ride when some of the folks in high end road bikes seemed to have been snake bitten, with one guy giving up because of 2 flats, and the rest (including the group leader) cutting the ride short because of the hot weather. Ironically it was a small group of us riding the "slower" hybrids that actually finished the ride. The group leader sent us ahead, telling us the faster road bikes would catch up down the road. It wasn't until we were more than 15 miles out that we realized that they weren't coming.

It isn't just the gear, but rather also the rider.

Update. Just took a liittle detour. Saw an add for a Bianchi Milano on Craigslist. Didn't hear back from the person for a week, then got an email saying the seller had been out of town and just got back. 12 hours later, I am the proud owner of a mid 2000s ('07 maybe?) Bianchi Milano, in black, but wiith celeste fenders.

Took it for a spin yesterday. I like the feel of the 8 speed internal hub gears. Very smooth. Saddle is harder than I like. Love the feel of the leather grips and the slightly swept back handle bars. That being said, with 26" wheels and stock 1.5" tires, it feels a bit slower than my hybrid.

Today, my wife will riide it and give me her impressions. I know this is a detour, but the Bianchi is so pretty.

254020

looks like the river on Commerce St!

That is a good solid bike for general riding. I wouldn't use it for the TdeF, but for getting to and from places under 10 miles away it will be hard to beat. Most of my bikes fall into that category.

Aaron :)

looks like the river on Commerce St!

Don't know. It is the seller's picture.

I would not suggest modernizing an old frame unless there is something special about it. (sentimental value, wonderful ride, classic model ....)

Well, I guess that's why they have both chocolate and vanilla.

I'd modernize any old frame in a heartbeat unless there happened to be something special about it.

Well, I guess that's why they have both chocolate and vanilla.

I'd modernize any old frame in a heartbeat unless there happened to be something special about it.

Cost of parts will quickly exceed the value. If you have parts laying around that is one thing, but to go an build up a bike from scratch is expensive. I bought a Redline Graduate to get the wheels and crankset off of it, then sold the frame to someone that wanted to make a fixie out of it. I came out money ahead over buying the components and building up wheels, even allowing for my time in taking the bike apart.

Aaron :)

Cost of parts will quickly exceed the value.

Sometimes there's a difference between cost and value. Cost is what it is. Value depends on what you plan to do with it. True, if you plan to sell it, value is what you can get for it. If selling it isn't your intention, value becomes more subjective. What's the value of a grand child?

I don't build bikes to sell so what I can get for them isn't relevant.

Well, I guess that's why they have both chocolate and vanilla.

I'd modernize any old frame in a heartbeat unless there happened to be something special about it.


Cost of parts will quickly exceed the value. If you have parts laying around that is one thing, but to go an build up a bike from scratch is expensive. I bought a Redline Graduate to get the wheels and crankset off of it, then sold the frame to someone that wanted to make a fixie out of it. I came out money ahead over buying the components and building up wheels, even allowing for my time in taking the bike apart.

Aaron :)

That is the question. Since I am not much of a DIY er, is the quality of the columbus tubing on the LeTour as good or better than, say, a modern steel frame from Salsa, Surly, Raleigh, or maybe a few others.

is the quality of the columbus tubing on the LeTour as good or better than, say, a modern steel frame from Salsa, Surly, Raleigh, or maybe a few others.

What are you looking for?

A Wally World special might be made from gas pipe. It'll be heavy but it won't break. As you move up the steel tubeing food chain the alloys get stronger but not necessarily the bike frames. They just use less steel to produce a frame that's lighter yet still strong enough not to break.

You could say that the lightest frame that won't break has the best quality. You could also say the Wally World frame is best because it's cheapest yet still doesn't break.

What are you looking for?

A Wally World special might be made from gas pipe. It'll be heavy but it won't break. As you move up the steel tubeing food chain the alloys get stronger but not necessarily the bike frames. They just use less steel to produce a frame that's lighter yet still strong enough not to break.

You could say that the lightest frame that won't break has the best quality. You could also say the Wally World frame is best because it's cheapest yet still doesn't break.

The ride and durability of a classic Cro Moly road or touring bike but, perhaps a more upright riding position, and modern 8 or 9 speed gearing, and indexed shifting.

Sometimes there's a difference between cost and value. Cost is what it is. Value depends on what you plan to do with it. True, if you plan to sell it, value is what you can get for it. If selling it isn't your intention, value becomes more subjective. What's the value of a grand child?

I don't build bikes to sell so what I can get for them isn't relevant.

I will let you try and explain VALUE to my insurance company.:bang: I wanted a rider on our homeowner's insurance to cover the cost of my C&V collection in case of total loss. None of my bikes are particularly valuable from a collector's point of view, however trying to replace them would be difficult and in some cases expensive. I have a couple of bikes where the closest new bike to replace it would cost in the $750+ range, insurance adjuster can't see it. He wants to assign a value of ~$250 because that is what I paid for it a couple of years ago, and isn't interested in the cost of parts that I have used to upgrade some of my bikes.

FWIW I don't typically build bikes to sell either, and in some cases have spent 5 or 6 times the cost of the bike in upgrades. But I own those upgrades and can move them to another bike quickly if I choose. If someone is not building their own bikes it is most likely a losing proposition.

Aaron :)

I will let you try and explain VALUE to my insurance company.

Believe it or not, there are insurance companies that do that. What you have to ask for is an "Agreed Value" policy. I have no idea what the cost would be for bicycles. For collectable cars it's actually pretty reasonable because they have so little road exposure.

The ride and durability of a classic Cro Moly road or touring bike but, perhaps a more upright riding position, and modern 8 or 9 speed gearing, and indexed shifting.

I'd think the trick would be to find a frame that's the size and geometry that you're looking for and that has the "panache" that you're looking for. Once I found that, I doubt the frame tubeing sticker would be a stickler.

I have to agree with Retro Grouch. Frame material is only one part of what makes a good bike. Fit and componants are a much bigger part. The Schwinn was a medium class bike at best and came in about maybe 31 pounds and there were a lot of classic bikes that came in way under that. Also when you stay with some of the older bikes you get stuck with 27 inch tires. Not that they are bad tires buti they are limited in size and wheels can be harder to find. There were some classic steel, Aluminum bikes that came in at mid to low 20s and some had wide rear spacing like the early aluminum Canondales, Treks, Giants and Kleins. If you get a bike of a frame that you can use modern STI shifters on it doesn't mean you have to use them you can still use downtube shifters or bar end shifters if you want but you options over the long run will be bigger. I know this may be hard to believe but the right frame or bike will almost speak to you. That might be a classic Cro-mo bike but it might be something with a bit more room for upgrades. So keep your options open.

I resumed biking 1 year ago and dropped 40 pounds. I had my old 1982 road bike but was so out of shape i couldnt handle the drop bars and the bike seemed too small on me.

I then collected some other old bikes 2 hybrids and a few old road bikes. Here is what i have learned.

Drop bars: they are the way to go. If you are out of shape you may not think so but as you get more fit and do group rides you need them-- straight bars are not comfortable on long rides, no alternative hand positions and the trigger or grip shifters get annoying over time.

STI or brifters etc. Not needed. Nothing wrong with downtube friction shifters. Drop some weight, get fit and you will find them easy to use. Once you are accustomed to friction shifters the brifters can be annoying and not preferable (at least with low level ones that feel clunky.) If you stick with friction shifters it allows you to keep using old parts or mix new and old parts and not be concered re STI compatibility.

Handlebars too low-- you need either hybrid adjustable stem or Nitto Technomic stem, check it out.

The big issues that concerned me--
Gearing range. Not number of gears but the range. A lot of the old bikes especially higher end have gears with range in back of 12-21 or 12-24. This isnt good for low level recreational use, going up steep hills etc. But you dont have to get a brand new 10 speed setup. You just have to get a new freewheel or cassette (whichever is applicable.) You may be able to keep using the original deraillers especially if you keep the back gearing to max of 28 and go with a triple in front.

Triple in front: this is what i care about to make the bike most versatile to me. IF it doenst come with a triple crankset i want one. That means new crankset, new bottom bracket, and new front derailler (or differnet used parts).
You can use modern new parts in front with the crankset and use vintage 5-7 speed parts in back. No need to replace/modernize the rear wheel other than getting a new wider range cassette or freewheel.

About 27 inch wheels-- in my opinion there is no need to modernize to 700cc. As to tires there are still good tires readily available in 27 inch-- for example Panasonic Pacela standard and tourguard. Also I dont see a need for sti so i dont care about sti. Also new freewheels are readily available for 5 6 and 7 speed on 126mm hubs. New hubs rims and complete wheels are still avaialble. Also theres a lot of easily obtainable used 27 inch wheels. Also you can keep your original brakes.

I resumed biking 1 year ago and dropped 40 pounds. I had my old 1982 road bike but was so out of shape i couldnt handle the drop bars and the bike seemed too small on me.

I then collected some other old bikes 2 hybrids and a few old road bikes. Here is what i have learned.

Drop bars: they are the way to go. If you are out of shape you may not think so but as you get more fit and do group rides you need them-- straight bars are not comfortable on long rides, no alternative hand positions and the trigger or grip shifters get annoying over time.

STI or brifters etc. Not needed. Nothing wrong with downtube friction shifters. Drop some weight, get fit and you will find them easy to use. Once you are accustomed to friction shifters the brifters can be annoying and not preferable (at least with low level ones that feel clunky.) If you stick with friction shifters it allows you to keep using old parts or mix new and old parts and not be concered re STI compatibility.

Handlebars too low-- you need either hybrid adjustable stem or Nitto Technomic stem, check it out.

The big issues that concerned me--
Gearing range. Not number of gears but the range. A lot of the old bikes especially higher end have gears with range in back of 12-21 or 12-24. This isnt good for low level recreational use, going up steep hills etc. But you dont have to get a brand new 10 speed setup. You just have to get a new freewheel or cassette (whichever is applicable.) You may be able to keep using the original deraillers especially if you keep the back gearing to max of 28 and go with a triple in front.

Triple in front: this is what i care about to make the bike most versatile to me. IF it doenst come with a triple crankset i want one. That means new crankset, new bottom bracket, and new front derailler (or differnet used parts).
You can use modern new parts in front with the crankset and use vintage 5-7 speed parts in back. No need to replace/modernize the rear wheel other than getting a new wider range cassette or freewheel.

Actually, the Schwinn has a triple in the front. As for the back, not sure of the range, but I had the old 5 speed freewheel replaced with a modern 6 speed one when I first got the bike.

As for your other points, I will take your word for it about drop bars being the way to go. Whether I keep the Schwinn or go wiith something different, I will certainly pay attention to fit so I can actually use drops, if I go that route. I don't quite understand how gripshifters or trigger shifters can become annoying, but downtube friction shifters do not. My experience has been the opposiite. I will take your word for it that some cyclists just love downtube friction shifters. I have tried to love them for the last 4 years. Even when I was riding a lot, I just didn't love them.

About 27 inch wheels-- in my opinion there is no need to modernize to 700cc. As to tires there are still good tires readily available in 27 inch-- for example Panasonic Pacela standard and tourguard. Also I dont see a need for sti so i dont care about sti. Also new freewheels are readily available for 5 6 and 7 speed on 126mm hubs. New hubs rims and complete wheels are still avaialble. Also theres a lot of easily obtainable used 27 inch wheels. Also you can keep your original brakes.

I agree with you there. I have Panaracer Pacela TGs. No problems there. And my LBS installed Kool Stop pads on the old cantilever brakes. They work just fine.

I am currently away from home due to work, its been at least six months now. I am debating when I return if i should buy a new bike, something like a Trek Madone 4.7 or a Specialized Cronus or upgrade my current bike which is a GT Transeo. I mostly do road cycling for fitness/pleasure, with some smooth trails, if any. My conundrum is, if I upgrade, can I modify my bike to be more similar to a road/cyclo-cross bike or because it is a comfort bike maybe I should get a road/cyclo-cross bike?

Here's why i say grip shifters, trigger shifters and even low level brifters can be annoying as compared to down tube friction:

The old 1990's grip shifters and trigger shifters on my hybrids are clunky. They dont have a very smooth or easy feel, even after being serviced by my pro mechanic. I also have a bike with RSX brifters and find it clunky even after servicing. You shift gear by gear by gear click click click, clunk clunk clunk. I also test rode a bike with Tiagra brifters and didnt like it either.

With good well maintained friction shifters there is a smoothness and ease not found with the indexed gears, particularly with grip and trigger shifters. With new high level brifters it might be smooth but it is still gear by gear by gear click click click.

With friction shifters you can jump gears. You can shift over 3-4 cogs up or down. There are times when i want to do this. For instance if i am on the bike path going about 12mph and there's 3 bikes ahead of me going slower and i want to quicly get out of their way, I can shift about 3 gears harder in 1 shift and pedal harder and accelerate quickly to 16mph. Or when i am stopping for a light i can downshift 3 or 4 gears at once before stopping so i dont have to start up pedaling in a hard gear. It gets old to have to shift click click click 1 gear at a time with indexing particulalry with trigger shifters or grip shifters that take more force of movement. (My trigger shifters have significant resistant when going to harder gears and the grip shifters take a fair degree of wrist movement and effort.) The friction shifters make me move my arms and hand but are less resistant when shifting. With the front derailler when i have a triple cog, with the friction shifters i can jump cogs from smallest to largest or vice versa. Im not sure if if i push harder with the indexed shifters i can jump more than 1 cog but even if it works that way it takes a lot more physical effort and certainly isnt as smooth. It's similar to driving a standard shift car-- i may be in gear 4 on a country road and want to downshift to 2 suddenly to pass or to maneuver fast around an obstruction or if i am suddenly losing traction.

About 27 inch wheels-- in my opinion there is no need to modernize to 700cc. As to tires there are still good tires readily available in 27 inch-- for example Panasonic Pacela standard and tourguard. Also I dont see a need for sti so i dont care about sti. Also new freewheels are readily available for 5 6 and 7 speed on 126mm hubs. New hubs rims and complete wheels are still avaialble. Also theres a lot of easily obtainable used 27 inch wheels. Also you can keep your original brakes.

I think that speaks to the overall durability of bicycles. There may be some exceptions, but I'm thinking 27 inch wheels = 25 year old bike. How many other 25 year old products can you think of with such easily obtainable replacement parts.

Update. Test rode a Trek 520 today and really liked it. Surprising as it came out of the blue. Stopped by a LBS I hadn't been to in many years, and they had it on sale. I had my eye on some other bikes at another shop, namely Salsa Casserol and the Salsa Vaya. Thing is, LBS is out of Casserols in my size so I would probably have to wait until the end of the summer riding season, and Vaya is basically full retail at $1,600. Have an opportunity to buy the Trek at a significant discount (25 or 30% off retail). If I get it now, I can still get a lot of riding in this season. Decisions, decisions.

I guess I am still stuck on steel.

There's nothing wrong with the 520. it's a solid looking touring bike with high end components from a solid company. If you can get a good deal on it, why not?

I would buy a 520 in a heart beat at that price if it was my size.

Aaron :)

I would buy a 520 in a heart beat at that price if it was my size.

Aaron :)

Thanks for the advice.

N+1, is the path of least resistance, 2nd bike purposed for different uses.

I know this may be hard to believe but the right frame or bike will almost speak to you.


Update. Test rode a Trek 520 today and really liked it. Surprising as it came out of the blue.

Yup.

Do a comfort fit on the schwinn and ride the heck out of it! Make it a performance fit when your happy with yourself.

And today I went back to the Salsa Dealer and tried the 55 cm bike and really liked that. :eek: Don't know why they first salesmen said it was too big. Final price isn't so important to me as getting the right bike. The two bikes are a bit different. Salsa is a little lighter, has Tiagra shifters and derailleurs, with proposed upgrades will have better tires, comes with a cool front rack, integrated brake/shift levers, canti brakes, Panaracer tires. Trek has barcon shifters, Deore drivetrain, built in rear rack (though, truthfully, the interchange rack is nothing special), and Bontrager tires. Standard saddles on both bikes will probably need to go, as neither was that comfortable. Thought about going with Brooks on either. Salsa is 55 cm frame, Trek is 54 cm.

And today I went back to the Salsa Dealer and tried the 55 cm bike and really liked that. :eek: Don't know why they first salesmen said it was too big. Final price isn't so important to me as getting the right bike. The two bikes are a bit different. Salsa is a little lighter, has Tiagra shifters and derailleurs, with proposed upgrades will have better tires, comes with a cool front rack, integrated brake/shift levers, canti brakes, Panaracer tires. Trek has barcon shifters, Deore drivetrain, built in rear rack (though, truthfully, the interchange rack is nothing special), and Bontrager tires. Standard saddles on both bikes will probably need to go, as neither was that comfortable. Thought about going with Brooks on either. Salsa is 55 cm frame, Trek is 54 cm.

Two different animals, as you've said. between the two I'd call the Casseroll the sportier of the two, whereas the 520 is built for comfort on the long haul.
Like you said, it's all about what feels best.

I was trying hard to convince myself to get an 80's Japanese steel bike but the Salsa Casseroll in a 58cm that I tried was so comfortable that I am strongly leaning in that direction. Also in the corner of my eye are the Jamis Bosanova and the Soma ES. I have been debating a new bike for close to two years and the Casseroll has been on top of my list for the past year.

Update. Bought the Casseroll. :) It was a close call, but I spent a lot of time with the Salsa guy getting things dialed in for my needs. On the LBS rec, I upgraded tires to Panaracer Ribmo. Swapped the stock handle bars for a wider one. Added a Brooks Saddle, with matching bar tape, and small trunk bag for the front rack. He even had bottle cages that matched the Salsa Logo. Topeak seat wedge bag was something I already had. The guy also took my old Schwinn in trade, and transfered my SPD pedals and Planet Bike bike computer.

Anyhow, rode it home, 18 miles. I think I made the right choice. Here is a quick pic I took when I got home. Sorry I forgot to turn the bike so you could see the derailleurs.

Hells Bells that's a sweet looking commuter!

Hells Bells that's a sweet looking commuter!

Thanks. :commute:

I suggest you buy a new .http://www.okhealthy.com/image/18.jpg

What is the problem with the drops? If it is simply that you are out of shape, that will come back - and anyway, for ordinary riding on a touring bike I don't spend that much time in the drops, using them mostly for headwinds or just for variety.

Personally I'd suggest you ride what you've got to get yourself back in shape. At that point you can evaluate what you feel about the current bikes, and more importantly, you'll be better able to assess what you might want in a new bike.

One thing I wouldn't recommend is immediately spending the money on modifying the Schwinn. A new groupset is expensive, and you'd need a new wheelset - well, at least a new rear wheel - to accommodate it. For that money you could pretty much have a new bike.

I completely agree here. I was, or am, in a very similar situation. I bought a nicer mountain bike about a year ago, and brought it home for the summer from college. While cleaning the garage, I found an old road bike with drops, larger gears, you know, an average beater bike.

I loved it. I rode faster and could get in much more aerodynamic positions because of the drops. However, the bike was very old, had a rusted chain/rims, and was just in terrible shape. I really thought about selling the mountain bike and buying a brand new road bike, but the fact that I could easily buy a few new tires and new bars, saving a ton of money, outweighed it.

If you have to get back into shape (which I had to do on the two bikes), do it on what you have, and THEN look at spending a lot of money. For me, I'm just doing it for the exercise and enjoyment, so spending ~50 bucks on attachments on a MB makes a lot more sense than dropping 300+ on a used road bike when i'm STILL out of shape.

Not to mention I have a perfectly fine, great condition bike to ride now. Now if you can sell both for a great price and get a newer bike for "free" or dirt cheap from the costs, then I'd be more inclined to go that route, but, overall, a new bike isn't going to help you get in shape any faster.