Fifty Plus (50+) - So what was not good enough on your bike?

Have 3 road bikes and all are pretty well sorted now so no problems but I am wondering what you have changed on your "Newly Purchased" bike that was not suitable for your use.

When I got the Boreas it was a custom build and I specced everything on it with a bit of help from the LBS. Other than the saddle that I did eventually change- it has stayed with all the original parts as bought. The Giant TCR-c was similar in that I fitted all the parts from a TCR3 onto a light weight frame the shop had and just changed the Crank to a compact and the Wheels to Mavic Aksiums. The wheels were a mistake and took a long time to find out about. Once the handbuilt wheels went on- the bike settled down. Since changed the crankset to a triple as this has turned into the Long rides or Hilly ride bike and a Century with hills did get a bit tiring by the end- even with a compact crank.

Last bike was a Pinarrelo FP UNO and is the cheapest of the Race Geometry bikes from them. not a cheap bike compared to the Usual big name ones being fitted with a complete Tiagra groupset other than the brifters that are 105 and the wheels that are Shimano R500's. This a downgrade from the mix of 105/Ultegra that I have on the other two but is the 2012 version that is an improvement on previous years. The brifters are Noticable but I did have my doubts about the wheels. Weight is a bit high at 17.5lbs compared to Boreas and the TCR but this is for a different use. It is the runaround bike when speed or hills or LONG distance is not involved. Only had it a couple of months and is a superb ride. Only one thing changed and that is the tyres. The OM's fitted were puncture prone so now have My favourite brand of Michelin Pro Race fitted and this has also improved the ride. Only problem with the bike is it is white and this has been made worse by fitting white tyres to it

So what have you changed on your bike(s) from the original spec that were not up to your standards?

http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj566/VolKS47/Cycling/DSC00185-1.jpg

When I first started riding, I didn't realize that eventually, everything on my first bike would fall short of my standards. Instead of buying a new bike I rebuilt what I had. Then I rebuilt it again. Eventually I got to the point of building new bikes from scratch (less frame welding which I still don't do).

Given a budget and an idea of what I want a bike to do, everything fits my likes. This isn't for everyone. First, it's expensive to find out what you like. I've literally tried many different equipment fits, changed pieces and completely redone bikes just to see how it felt. My friends have obtained many of my past projects at reduced prices as I worked my way through various bits and pieces. Second, you need to like tinkering, taking notes, tinkering again. I guess that I have as much fun building bikes as I do riding them.

Now, if I only had a bigger budget! :eek:

I removed the RED front derailleur and replaced the damaged chain and big ring and it's perfect now.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7134/6954312320_d08f912d30.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/frankthewelder/6954312320/)
29 781 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/frankthewelder/6954312320/) by frankthewelder (http://www.flickr.com/people/frankthewelder/), on Flickr

Switched to carbon bars, saddle of course.

For now, the motor...

I build my bikes from sourced parts and I select every item. I'm value oriented, so nothing on my bikes is Dura-Ace or at that level. But the bikes are optimized for my individual needs and completed within budget.

Same here, only thing wrong with my bike now is the motor, and a few scrapes.

... saddle of course.

Of course?

I know what you mean, and I have Brooks on a couple of my bikes. One because the stock saddle didn't work for me, one that I specified when I ordered the bike. But on one of my Giants the stock saddle, which looked improbable, frankly, has turned out to be absolutely fine.

I purchased a Cervelo during the January sale. The Rival group is OK, but I have a Centaur group waiting for me to find the time to swap it in. I'm a long time Campy fan.

I bought a Volagi last November. The bike would normally come with Ultegra. I had the LBS switch out the handlebars for CF, change the shifters to Campy Chorus and the RD to SRAM X9 for compatibility. I also have an 11-32 cassette. I put on a stem with a bit of a rise, but I'm going to a 100mm stem as I get used to the bike.

After I do a tough-ish 100K in June (6000' of climbing), I'll figure out whether I want to either put on a triple or just change the cassette to 11-36 which we have on our tandem. Since the RD will handle the 36t that is a much cheaper alternative; I don't ride in pacelines so the steps between the gears is not a big deal.

I don't really ride the single enough to consider updated rims and I'm not sure the selection would be great as I would want rims without brake tracks (the Volagi is disc-equipped)

When I started biking again, I was 235 lbs, a "Clyde." First to go was the 12-23 cassette, for a 11-34 and Deore RD. Wheels failed next, so replaced. Rear wheel failed again after a couple more years so now have been running with 36 spoke rear and 32 spoke front, weight came down to around 200 plus or minus a biscuit, and have swapped out the drive train for Ultegra 6600 10 speed with a FSA compact crank and all is good!

On the Giant road bike, the seat post and stem were changed before the purchase based on fitting the bike, the saddle and tires were changed within the first three weeks. After the first year, I replaced the wheels with Ksyrium Elites, wish I had done that out of the box.
On the MTBs, I changed nothing out of the box. After a few years, none of the original components remain on the hardtail, but that's another story.

Much changing as experience accumulates. One year ago I bought my first bike in many many years. It was the first bike I looked at. I understood the Giant Defy had a relaxed geometry thank goodness but the 12-25 cassette sucked for a new rider in the extreme hills around here. That bike was stolen. I replaced it with a Trek 2.1 for its H2 fitting and the SRAM Apex 11-32 cassette. Well I just don't like the geometry on the Trek much and the Apex gearing is too wide but the bike pulls hills like a John Deere. Live and learn.
I've got my sniffer on a Giant Defy Advanced with 105 components and rumor has it that Ultegra will be distributing a 12-30 cassette that should drop right in. This will be my combination. The Trek is my third bike in my first year returned to cycling. I'm still getting my hybrid commuter set up just right.
65 degrees and 100 mile visibility; I gotta go.....

It's been a while since I've gotten a new bike, but after a couple decades using Selle Italia "Turbo" saddles, my butt decided it didn't like them anymore. I've switched 3 bikes to Brooks "Professional" saddles now, and my butt is much happier.

Biggest thing usually is the engine. But like everything else, working on improving it :lol:

Changed the saddle on my 2012 Giant Defy 1 to a Specialized Avatar Gel. Butt is a lot happier. I also changed the tires from the OEM to Gatorskins.

I didn't change anything, but I changed everything. :)

I rode my Coda Comp as-is for 8 years, while I learned what I actually wanted in a bike. When it came time for N+1 recently, the only logical choice for me was a new Coda Elite. But, contemplating things, I realized I'd have to change most of the bike off the top. They've gone downmarket to keep it price-relevant. I'd have had to change out the entire drivetrain. I don't need a Triple, so that's hauling wasted weight. I wanted better ders and crankset, so they'd have to go. An 11-32 9-speed was irrelevant at both ends; a 12-28 10-speed gives me more usable cogs where I need them. $25 hubs won't cut it with a bike I ride hard in all weather, so the rims had to go. No need for an adjustable stem, so that was excess weight which had to go. The rear disc was extra weight unnecessary on a road-oriented ride. I didn't even like the darn grips.

So, by the time I was done with a Coda Elite, the only remaining original components would basically have been frame, fork, front brake and bar.

I kept my original Comp frame and am hanging all-new components on it instead. Nothing but the frame stays. The downside is, I have the price of a Coda Elite just in the wheels and crankset, but by the time I was done with the Elite I'd have had in excess of $2000 in it anyway. And my Comp has a unique unpainted polished/clearcoated steel frame that I haven't seen before or since - it must have been a bear to produce - so the end result will be a unique ride where every bolt and nut is precisely what I want.

Wheels, tires, pedals, cassettes, stems, and saddles.

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The 143 mm Specialized Avatar saddle was too wide and terribly uncomfortabele. The handelbars were also too wide.

All other mods were optional. All mods below:
Ultegra Di2 electronic shifting replaced Ultegra mechanical shifting
Selle Italia Monolink SLR Flow saddle and seatpost (tried Specialized Toupe and Selle Italia SLR Fibra)
Roval Fusee SL 25 wheels (replaced EL45)
Dura Ace chain (longer life and quieter than original Ultegra chain)
New bottom bracket with ceramic bearings (original started clicking)
Ritchey 40 cm carbon fiber bars
Lizard Skins bar tape
Speedplay Zero pedals with titanium spindles

Swapped out the Vittoria Zaffiro tires that were on the Colnago, at the time of purchase, for some new Conti Ultra-Gatorskins that I had recently purchased for the Defy. I'm now about to change the OEM Colnago saddle for an ISM Adamo Prologue saddle. I also changed the white bar tape from the OEM cork tape to white Zipp washable tape. Dirt cleans off the bar tape very easily but I can't get the dye from my gloves off the tape. Didn't have that problem with the cork tape. I don't know that I will use the Zipp tape again unless it's in a different color.

what you have changed on your "Newly Purchased" bike that was not suitable for your use.

So what have you changed on your bike(s) from the original spec that were not up to your standards?

http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj566/VolKS47/Cycling/DSC00185-1.jpg

Honestly, not much.

22 YO Specialized Sirrus Triple, steel fast tourer - I put on a Brooks and Brooks Bar tape, but honestly I didn't need to, it was just dressing it up as a cosmetic 'retro'

20 YO Santana Visa tandem - as it came until it needed new wheels after 17 years. Superb wheels from Loveland, Colerado!

2007 Rocky Mountain Solo ST 50 - as it came

2009 Xootr Swift Folder - as it came

Spouses 2006 Trek 7.5 FX - as it came, with a rack on the back

Wow. I don't know enough about my bent to change much with it.

I did change the tires from Kenda Kwests to Schwalbe Marathon Plus. I've also experimented with different helmets until I came across the Giro Ionos, which I am totally happy with.

The engine needs an overhaul and a valve job.

I don't think I'm going to play the upgrade game otherwise, except if I crave speed and get the engine running better and fall into money I might look into the carbon fiber version of my bike, the Aero CA 2.0.

All that is left stock on my cruiser is the frame,wheel assembly, and running gear. Everything else is from different sources.

My bikes are functional but, to be honest, I consider them to be part art object too. You wouldn't believe how much money I've spent on hand grips but they're real cool looking and nobody else has them. As time goes by, the bikes just evolve. The last change that I made was to paint the crankset on my beater bike. I also painted the rims for my fixed gear bike yellow and there's a chance that it may get a red or yellow crankset too.

On my 2011 Trek Soho Deluxe, everything met my needs as delivered. I only bought a trunk bag to put on the included rack. I doubt that I will ever modify it. Obviously I will need new tires sometime and will most likely change to Michelins.

I don't consider myself much of a gear futzer, however all that is left of my Simoncini from when I bought her almost 20 years ago is the frame and bars, I wore out the drive train, wheels and seat. All that has changed on my Tarmac was the seat, cassette and BB, the wheels I upgraded before I ever brought it home. Except for the seat every modification was to help make it a better climber. My Gary Fischer is just about stock, I changed the tires to road tires, I added fenders and paniers and thats it.

My monstrcross bike was built up from a frame, so everything on it was custom.

The Specialized Roubaix is stock except for the change to a 100mm stem to replace the stock 110. I had expected to need to change the saddle, but to my surprise, the stock 143mm Specialized Avatar has been fine.

The Salsa Casseroll started as a single speed and I converted it to a geared triple, changing the wheels, crank and bottom bracket and adding derailleurs, shifters, cassette and a longer chain. For cosmetics, I changed the bar tape, brake levers, seat post and seat post clamp. For fit I changed to a shorter reach, higher rise stem. The original saddle was too narrow, so I switched to a Brooks B17, later swapping it for a Koobi Enduro PRS, which is even more comfortable on rough roads.. I added Honjo fenders for a while, but removed them after a stick rolled up on the front tire, crumpling the fender. Recently I moved most of the running gear from the Salsa to the new monstercross bike and went back to the original single speed crank, bottom bracket, wheels, chain and freewheel. I added a fixed cog on the other side of the flip/flop hub so I can run the bike fixed gear. I changed to a Velo Orange Model 6 leather saddle as much for cosmetics as for comfort. It is fine for 10-25 miles.

The Stumpjumper is pretty much stock except for the 17 degree sweep Salsa Bend 2 handlebars.

Stem shifters (yes, I'm oldschool C&V mostly) to downtube. Dork disc outta here. Turkey levers gone. Kickstand....seeya.

This was what I did to my old '72 Motobecane Mirage when bought new. Come to think of it, it's what I did to the Super Mirage last summer that I bought stone-stock in excellent condition.

Only thing I am changing will be the Schwalbe tires on the CAAD 10. They seemed alright at first but they are not as smooth rolling as my Michelin PR3 were on the R500. New PR3 or PR4 will be swapped out soon. 700X23 is best for me.

Bill

The 1982 Stumpjumper is stock. The 1982 Santana was switched from 27" wheels to 700C in the late 1990s. The 1984 Alex Moulton AM7 got a Brooks saddle the day I got it. The 1997 Trek 750 got randonneur bars and bar-end shifters. The 2007 Cannondale Capo got a three-speed hub and brifter. The 2009 BikeFriday tikit had its nasty, ill conceived and poorly functioning factory drivetrain swapped out. The other bikes were built up from bare frames.

2000 Bianchi Veloce. I wanted a triple, but the LBS only had a triple in yellow. If I was buying a Bianchi it had to be Celeste. They were nice enough to do a component swap to the Celeste frame for me.

Items immediately changed out were:

-The saddle, for a Brooks Team Pro
-The pedals. Switched out the look compatible for SPD's (I apologize for putting SPD's on a Campy equipped bike, but that's what I ride with)
-The stem, swapped out the monstrosity it came with for a sexy TTT model. This was simply for looks.

2001 Kettler Silverstar. The stock AXA sidewall generator required fiddling and slipped badly in snow, and had no voltage regulation, causeing short headlight life. I replaced it with a Shimano hub dynamo and regulator/switch. The taillight required an obscure bulb available only from Europe and Peter White, so I replaced the whole assembly with a B&M Toplight LED unit. Result -- hassle-free lighting with a bulb life of several years and hundreds of hours.

The stock Vredstein tires were grossly inadaquate with regard to flats. Schwalbe Marathon Plus brought tire reliability up to a flat every 20,000 miles - better than for my car, as it had a flat just last week.

After a few years, the stock plastic saddle fell apart. Several replacement saddles failed similarly. I finally bought a Brooks B67, and have over 10,000 maintenance-free miles on it. I bought it for durability, not comfort, but it's the most comfortable saddle I've owned.

After ten years, the stock steel fenders rusted out and I replaced them with Giles Berthold stainless steel ones. In general, aftermarket bike fenders are noisy, floppy trash, but these far exceed the quality of the original equipment.

So what have you changed on your bike(s) from the original spec that were not up to your standards?



My last road bike was a custom build, including wheels. So it was perfect; to my specifications.

However, I just purchased a new production mountain bike (Santa Cruz Juliana). When I have the money, I will have custom wheels built for it but for now I have added a Chris King Headset, a new XT Crank, and a Raceface setback seat post in order to get the geometry correct. I also change out the tires to Kendra Nevegals with work best with SoCal's sandy conditions. Or yeah another saddle. The bike actually came with a very expensive saddle (WTB Volt ProTeam) but I like my cheaper WTB Speed She. Gotta stay with what works for me.

Tandem and the only parts left from OM are the frame and the stokers stem.

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Forks are Rockshox Boxers- Brakes-Hope Mono M4's with 200 mm discs- Wheels Hope BigUn hubs with 36 spokes to Mavic downhill rims-Bars are Freeride spec for strength- XT Drivetrain with XTR rear Derailler- Stokers seat post is not the one shown as that failed in a big way on a training ride so was replaced with a Thudbuster. Cranks are Sugino XD and runs 48/36/24 rings with an 11/32 cassette. Not your standard Cannondale MT 2000

It works. Oh--Tyres are Panaracer FireXC's in 2.1 and last for about 200 miles before they get too cut up to use.

On my Jamis Xenith Comp, first thing changed was the saddle to a Fizik Aliante. Next, out with the compact double for an Ultegra 53/39 and then replaced the Shimano wheels with Easton EA90 SLX.

On my last big ride two weeks ago, we missed a critical turn and ended up well over 25 miles off course. That cost us valuable sleep time and we pulled the plug after about 31 hours and 325 miles. I need new glasses and the gotdamn patience to double- and triple-check the cue sheet. Readin' while riding isn't my strong point. The bike, on the other hand, is fine.

My Cannondale T1 was bought for touring but really wasn't set up for touring with a trailer. I changed out the stock 50/39/30 crankset for a 46/36/24 unit and went with bar end friction shifters to control the derailleurs. I got rid of the horrible canti brakes and replaced them with a set of Deore V brakes.

The only thing changed on my singlespeed was the seat. I went with a B17N. Nice change. Al

I swapped out the saddle and put on my old Brooks as soon as I got my new Bianchi Volpe home. The tires will go when I can find a good sale. Other than that nothing.

On my first road bike: Bars, stem, seatpost, saddle, and crankset.

Second road bike: nothing so far, but could use narrower bars.

So far, as of May 2012:
Saddle went first within first few weeks;
Got Velocity A23 rims to run 28mm tiers - nice plush ride good for my back;
Changed out square taper crank for Shimano with wachamacallit outboard bearings;
26 T inner chain ring;
Modified cogs to 30 T low gear;
New bars to get rid of those awful ergo type that always mad me angry when in the drops.
Now I'm thinking about a new fork with a bit less rake. Been very happy with the bike.

My MTB got new saddle (WTB Speed V), tires (reverse knobbies), grips and clipless pedals (M520s). Road bike got new saddle (E3 Form Ti), tires (Gatorskins), compact crankset (105 Hollowtech II) and clipless pedals (105 SPD-SL). CX commuter got new saddle (Terry FLX), tires (slicks) and clipless pedals (M520s).

Replaced the saddle with a B17. Replaced the tires with Pasela Tourguards. Added Split Second aerobars and an aero bar rear brake lever. Added sweat and dirt.

So far, as of May 2012:
Saddle went first within first few weeks;
Got Velocity A23 rims to run 28mm tiers - nice plush ride good for my back;
Changed out square taper crank for Shimano with wachamacallit outboard bearings;
26 T inner chain ring;
Modified cogs to 30 T low gear;
New bars to get rid of those awful ergo type that always mad me angry when in the drops.
Now I'm thinking about a new fork with a bit less rake. Been very happy with the bike.
I suspect you wight have larger hands than me. My hands are small and I love the Ergo bars. I would probably hate them if my hands were larger. I have a 30 cog, but it will be removed after Ride the Rockies.

I've got a box with seven stems in it. So I guess I must have swaped a few of them on new rides.

Hard to answer your question. Stuff changed on a bike bought new? The only bike that qualifies is my '72 UO8. I've changed the wheels, the freewheel, the crank, the derailleurs, the chain, the handlebar, the seatpost. I'm thinking it's about time to swap out the saddle. My aging prostate might appreciate it. It still has the pedals. Ah, I've got it. When it was new I swapped out the stem shifters for DT shifters, still Simplex though. And I added toe clips and straps.

None of my other bikes qualify as new. Sorry.

2010 Sirrus Comp
2010: Saddle (to Avatar); pedals (XT); grips (Ergon); brake levers (to Avid SD7)
2011: decided to keep bike, and use as a 'frame/fork set' to build up a proper flat-bar road/Fred bike, so drivetrain (complete change, to SRAM Apex/Rival); brakes (TRP CX9); headset (to full cartridge bearings); tires (Conti GP4000s, 25c)
2012: will be wheels (haven't decided what yet; probably a straight-forward-but-lighter 32h set, e.g. Mavic Open Pro on Ultegra or similar).

Bought a frame this winter - a Merckx Team SC. Used a few parts I had in a box, a few I found on Craigs List. Have done just a few rides on it, but may need a crank with shorter arms - 172.5 rather than 175 - and a seatpost with zero setback. Overall, a very fun bike! As mentioned above a few times, the engine needs the most work ;)

For now, the motor...

I build my bikes from sourced parts and I select every item. I'm value oriented, so nothing on my bikes is Dura-Ace or at that level. But the bikes are optimized for my individual needs and completed within budget.

I'm in the same boat but I'm seldom completely satisfied with a bike. I'm always exploring new parts. Especially bars, saddles, and bar tape. Wheelsets get moved around too, in search of the perfect combination.

When I was a boy the jet engine was just beginning to get popular but most airplanes were prop driven. Anyway I would pretend that I had two small jet engine on each side of my rear wheel to give me that extra boost. That what my bike is lacking now, those two small jet engines.

On my 2011 Trek Soho Deluxe, everything met my needs as delivered. I only bought a trunk bag to put on the included rack. I doubt that I will ever modify it. Obviously I will need new tires sometime and will most likely change to Michelins.

Hey how do you like that Gates Belt Drive on your new Soho? I’ll bet that is something you are not going to change.

I bought a Trek cruiser last week. It has the cheapest, crap pedals. I guess they figured if you are on a cruiser you are not going fast and you don’t need good pedals. I am going to get me some nice pedals. I just have to make up my mind which pedals.
I also ordered a rear rack as I didn’t like the ones the LBS had. Got to get a Bell too, a cruiser has to have a Bell.

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My new Trek Cruiser