Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Raleigh Record Franken-Stealth bike conversion complete

I had posted a couple of weeks ago about a 1970s Raleigh Record that I'd picked up on craigslist and was modifying. I finished the mods this weekend, and wanted to give an update as some people expressed interest in seeing it when it was done.

I got a LOT of help on the drivetrain mods from folks on the Bike Mechanics forum, and one of the essential parts was supplied by a BF member (I didn't ask his permission to reveal his identity, so I won't mention it unless he does...) My thanks to everyone who contributed advice, etc.

The objective here was to create a bike that looked like a beater, that would not be a theft target, and that was cheap enough, even after modifying, that I wouldn't be overly upset if it did get stolen. The bike gets ridden in "iffy" neighborhoods, and is sometimes parked on the sidewalk for hours in a fairly urban area. So I wanted the bike to look as uninviting as possible, while still performing well enough to make it safe and fun to ride.

I also wanted it to be comfortable, and good for climbing when I'm on the way to places where I can't afford to be really sweaty on arrival. I started the conversion while I was still obese, and in much worse shape than I am now - I may not have gone as far in the "easy climbing" direction if I had been just starting now, but I'd already bought parts, etc, and I was anxious to try anyway. I learned a lot by doing this.

So - the bike has had the following modifications, not including routine maintenance like new brake pads, cables, tubes and tires (which were also done):

- Replaced stem, bars and brake levers with recycled MTB components that I had. Also added bar ends, all to get me more upright and put the brake levers closer to me. I ride this bike in a lot of urban traffic, and the drops weren't doing it for me.
- Replaced 52/42 chainring pair with a 52/36 chainring pair from an old Peugot. (Thanks to a BF member who happened to have one that would fit this very quirky BCD, and that he was willing to sell.)
- Cold-set frame to accept 126 mm hub/freewheel, (stock was 110 mm).
- Replaced rear wheel and old 5-speed 14-28 freewheel with a new wheel and a 6-speed 14-34 "Mega-range" freewheel. With the new chainrings, this took the lowest gear ratio from the stock 3:2 to 18:17 - almost 1:1. I took it for a little test ride yesteday, and it's really nice to have that granny gear, even though I don't feel I "need" it as much as I did when I started this work.
- Replaced stock RD with a long-crank MTB derailleur. (Stock one wouldn't clear the big cog.)

I kept the stem-shifters - I actually like them, and keeping them made the conversion a little easier, maybe even saved me having to replace the FD.

I learned a lot doing all this, including getting my first experience cold-setting a frame. I think I achieved all the objectives except the one about not caring much if gets stolen. While I stuck to fairly low-end or recycled parts, so the total cost including the purchase price of the bike was still under $150 (and that includes the tubes, tires and brake pads), I've put so much thought and effort into doing this that I'd still be pretty upset if it disappeared. But I guess I'd still have all the learning ...

I'm going to post a pic, knowing that the bike still looks like junk. That's what it was supposed to look like - I intentionally didn't do anything to pretty it up. So, hopefully, I can lock it up for a couple of hours on the sidewalk and still find it there when I get back...

250403

Well done. I still think it is sacrilege to have flat bars with bar-ends on that frame, but hey - what matters is that it works for you. And I'm impressed with your cold-setting the frame. I do all my own wrenching and I would hesitate before attempting that.

Well done. I still think it is sacrilege to have flat bars with bar-ends on that frame, but hey - what matters is that it works for you. And I'm impressed with your cold-setting the frame. I do all my own wrenching and I would hesitate before attempting that.I was so far into the project at the point that it became apparent that it needed doing that NOT doing it wasn't an option.

I had bought the wheel and freewheel, thinking (based on what it said on the Sheldon Brown site) that I was only going from 120mm to 126, and that I could get away with just forcing the wheel into the dropouts. I found out the hard way that English bikes of that era often had 110mm rear dropout spacing and 90mm front dropout spacing.

Actually, it was learning all of this sort of trivia that was invaluable and made the whole project interesting. I saved the old parts, so if my neck issues ever works themselves out (doubtful), or I pass the bike along to somebody else, it can easily be restored to something that looks more original. For now, though, this was strictly a utilitarian and learning project.

As it happens, the Raleigh Royal that I have been boring people about for weeks, had a seven-speed block squeezed into it by a previous owner. I haven't gone back to the five-speed, but have compromised on six. Seems to have worked fine just on the available tolerances.

What I like best about my first build is now I have no fears doing most anything to my bikes. If I decide to do some heavy touring all I need is a frame.

I like it. I'm a big fan of practicality. Hope it lives with you for a long time.

I like it. I'm a big fan of practicality. Hope it lives with you for a long time.Thanks!