Fifty Plus (50+) - Basics of Bike Selection

I'm getting bored with my daily 1 hour walk on a nearby paved multiple use recreational trail. I'd like to get a bike but haven't a clue what to get. I'm 55, 6', 185 lbs. with a large frame and have a really bad lower back (minimizing stress on my lower back and straightening up occasionally to stretch will be important). But sitting bolt upright on a single speed CCM with a basket up front, like the one the Wicked Witch of the West rode, sure doesn't appeal. I pass regular stress tests with my cardiologist and use a heart rate monitor - so I'm serious about fitness. What do I need to know in shopping for a bike? MTN bike, touring, road - what type of bike would be most appropriate? What size of wheel, type of tire, shape of seat, frame and handlebars, etc. Cost is an issue so the best bang for the buck is important. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

There is a FAQ on choosing a bike that might be helpful:

http://www.bikeforums.net/faq.php?faq=how_to_buy_a_bike

Cost is an issue so the best bang for the buck is important.
I've had lots of new cyclists say that the cost of a decent entry level bike (~$800-1000) is much cheaper than a day in intensive care.

Any "good" bike salesperson can answer your questions and should take the time to ask you the important ones about how often, how many miles per ride, where you want to ride, goals, $$, etc. and any health concerns. You may have to talk with the store owner/manager.
If you don't feel comfortable with the person or are being rushed, head for the door.

I'm about the same height and weight but a few years older than you and IMHO you DO NOT want a bike with a comfy saddle or fat tires and suspension!!
Get your questions answered and make sure the bike FITS!

I'm getting bored with my daily 1 hour walk on a nearby paved multiple use recreational trail. I'd like to get a bike but haven't a clue what to get. I'm 55, 6', 185 lbs. with a large frame and have a really bad lower back (minimizing stress on my lower back and straightening up occasionally to stretch will be important). But sitting bolt upright on a single speed CCM with a basket up front, like the one the Wicked Witch of the West rode, sure doesn't appeal. I pass regular stress tests with my cardiologist and use a heart rate monitor - so I'm serious about fitness. What do I need to know in shopping for a bike? MTN bike, touring, road - what type of bike would be most appropriate? What size of wheel, type of tire, shape of seat, frame and handlebars, etc. Cost is an issue so the best bang for the buck is important. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Please make it a point to test ride a Specialized Sequoia (comes in various configurations). It has very relaxed geometry yet I can regularly get mine up to around 34 mph. It was my entry level bike, and when I went nuts of cycling, I wound up spending a few K for my Roubaix, but liked the Sequoia so much I kept it. BTW, I am 64.

Hello!
I'm not as big as you are but I recently went through a bike purchasing process and this forum was very helpful. I had begun with the idea of getting a commuter type bike (sitting upright with a basket) but none of the ones I tried fit so I got a hybrid... still upright but very comfortable, easy on my back, and more efficient than a cruiser. I would say get something that fits and worry less about "style."

Best advice is to go to your Local Bike Shop and discuss with them. Worst advice is to go to a department store and buy a cheap bike. Decide what type of bike you want-- Road --Mountain or probably better for beginner A hybrid.

Others will advise you on road bikes but for a mountain bike go for a Steel frame, without suspension, unless you do plan plenty of off road riding, and if using it solely on pavement, change the tyres to slick tyres. Suspension sounds good but a full suspension bike at a beginners price will be rubbish. Sensible ones in this line start at around £1000 in the UK. Front suspension means that only a cheap fork will be fitted and it won't last.

Paying for your riding does not stop there though. Get a helmet right from the start, and a sensible wind/rain proof right from the start. A spare tube and pump are also advisable, and the Saddle pouch to carry the tube and sandwiches in. Then go out and ride, and get your neighbours to join in your fitness programme at the same time.(Make certain that they are just as unfit as you, or a lot older. 20 year olds are not fun to ride with at our age)

That FAQ is absolutey brilliant. I think that sums everything up.

Chances are, if you get "hooked" on cycling, you will eventually have more than one bike. A "first" bike ought to be one that can handle a variety of tasks, including riding on roads, bike trails, and off-road trails. And, it should be designed for a "custom" fit.

One series of bikes you should look at is the Trek 7000 series. These bikes come in a range of sizes, so you can get a good fit. The big tires provide both stability and comfort. Later, if you want to do some "fast" riding, you can put narrower, lighter tires on the same rims.

As much as I enjoy road bikes, I don't think a road bike is the best choice as a "first" or as an "only" bike, for most people over forty. The narrower tires and lower riding position is more suitable for an experienced rider who has some riding miles under their belt.

Be sure to investigate the recumbents; they are the most comfortable of bikes. Like you, I have a very bad back. I'm 53, 5'11", 213 lbs. I did not think my back would let me seriously ride a bike at all until a recumbent stationary bike convinced me I might be able to ride a real recumbent bicycle. Now I ride 80 to 100 miles a week, really pushing myself one or two of those rides each week, and it doesn't hurt my back at all. Come to think of it, I don't hurt anywhere from riding my bent.

I second what Bud Bent said. I used to be a roadie, but getting a 'bent made all of the little aches and pains go away. Oh, I have a bad back too. No back pain, not even after a long ride.

'bent Brian

A lot of riders like the Specializes Sirrus. It's a flat bar bike, but much lighter and sportier than most "hybrids". It works well as a general purpose, utility and commuter bike .
The features you need on a utility bike are:
Low enough gears.
Fittings for luggage rack and fenders.
Clearance for wide-enough tyres.
A comfortable riding position, suited to YOUR favourite position.
The Sirrus ticks all these boxes.
Compared to the Sequoia, it can take wider tyres more suitable for tracks and rough roads. The Sirrus uses MTB style V brakes rather than road style caliper brakes which limit the Sequoia to 28mm width. If you look at other brands of flat bar road bike, note that some use road-style caliper brakes.

I want to thank you all for your advice. I did indeed find a good local bike shop - http://www.pedlarbicycle.com/ - and as the first step I telephoned the manager, a fellow with a thick European accent. Not that he didn't know his bicycles. Interestingly, he suggested what some of you advised - a hybrid, prices starting around $600. He said he's assembling bikes now and to come for inspection next month. In the meantime, he stated he'll give me a book about buying a bike. What I liked most was his attitude - he enjoyed talking about a suitable bike more than making a sale. When asked he also stated he had a used Raleigh for $150. Even though that might be in rough shape, I'm thinking it might be most suitable just to see how much biking is going to appeal (horseback riding is my life passion). His shop sells helmets that may be mandatory for adults soon if not now - I should be wearing one like many others for recreational horseback riding anyway. Recumbents are interesting - both the trikes and bikes - and likely best for a bad back. But the recumbent position looks utterly vulunerable - to traffic and whatever might be overhead - which must be just about everything. Hunched over the handle bars of my metallic dark red 3 speed Raleigh imported from England, pushing down hard going up hills and racing with my brothers, is how I remember biking as a kid (I usually beat them all, at least that's how I remember the races). I might be wrong, but I suspect recumbent cyclers are a breed onto themselves. I have seen them around Niagara...flying warning flags on arterial roads and wonder if they auger into the local bike accident statistics http://www.rnbc.info/Accident%20Stats.htm. Finally, with a little research, I've found a lot more biking activities than I realized, right in my own back yard which is one of the most beautiful locales in Canada http://www.cycleniagara.com/ Thank you all again. Mark

I primarily mountain bike. While mountain bikes are great all around machines, they are relatively slow on the road. Road bikes are fast on the road, but I find the riding position a problem. I don't have a bad back, but I do have some bone spurs that cause some numbness if I get to much shock transmitted into my back from my arms. With the road bike riding position you also spend more time watching your tire. Road bikes are also more prone to flats, particularly when when you get off pavement.

I bought Specialized Crossroads (a hybrid) for my wife and I to take day rides, and I also use mine to ride in town for training. The primary difference between the Crossroads and the Sirrus is in the fork (Crossroads has a shock fork) and the Crossroads has a shock seat post. They have the same tires which are a good compromise for paved and hard packed bike path trails and the drives trains are similar though the Sirrus components are more road bike centric and the Crossroads are more MTB centric. Both use MTB v-brakes. I am really happy with the Crossroads because it is comfortable to ride and I don't aggrevate the bone spur problem, fast enough, and the Shimano Deore components work well and are very similar to those on my MTB components. The only thing that could be better is the seat if you use padded riding pants.

In chosing between the Sirrus and the Crossroads, I would focus on the the importance of the effect of shocks. A shock seat post is relatively inexpensive and could be added, so the fork is the big differential.

DJColorado - Which has the shock fork and which the shock seat post? I may have similar back issues to your "spur" problem. I have, in part, degenerative disc disease involving my spinal facets with a little neurological involvement. In 1969 I was warned by a surgeon not to ride horses, which was good ignored advice to an indestructible muscular 20 year old. To accommodate the bad back and go on 4 hour rides, I add extra padding under the saddle and stand in the stirrups when I trott. Medications too. So getting a suspension seat on a bike and leaving trails to the horse sound like the approach for me. As an aside, I understand that medical complaints get boring and even morbid. But hearing I'm not alone with my problem means the world to me ... and IMHO one of the best benefits of a forum. Mark

Actually your visibility to drivers when you are on a typical recumbent is not an issue (exception being a low racer), at least that is what I've found. Perhaps recumbents are more noticable to traffic because they are so different. I've ridden the same streets and roads on both my road bike and my recumbent. The traffic treats me far better when I'm on the recumbent. Your normal head position is about the same as that of a driver oin a typical passenger car. Your forward visibility on a recumbent, particularly a USS model, is better than on most road bikes. Recumbents may not be for everybody but in my opinion they offer too many good things to totally ignore.

'bent Brian

Okay Bent Brian - if the local shop has one, I'll give it a try with an open mind. You never know.....

Sounds like you are getting good advice. Unless you can just roll out of your driveway, you will need a bike carrier of some type. If you've got back problems, you will probably want a hitch mounted carrier or a trunk mounted carrier. Factor cost into your purchase. A new bike (even lower end) from your LBS will be a delight to ride and probably get you hooked. You live in a beautifull area and should have some really nice riding options. Have fun.

Thanks Terex - I've got a pickup - hoisting up a reasonably light bike onto a mat in the back shouldn't be a problem. Thanks again guys for taking the time and making the effort to reply.

You're about my size and weight - and I have a back that feels like a stack of broken bottles. I hopped on my old road bike - against many naysayers' advice and decided to see how my back would handle the correct cycling position. Turns out that bending over was the BEST THING that ever happened to my back. I stretched muscles and loosened things up in my back to the point that I consider my bike to be the cure for my achin' back. I HOPE you have the same kind of experience. Good luck and best wishes.

Turns out that bending over was the BEST THING that ever happened to my back. I stretched muscles and loosened things up in my back to the point that I consider my bike to be the cure for my achin' back. I HOPE you have the same kind of experience. Good luck and best wishes.

Ditto to everything you said. If my back is out of whack, it means I need a ride on my road bike.

I might be wrong, but I suspect recumbent cyclers are a breed onto themselves. I have seen them around Niagara...flying warning flags on arterial roads...

Pardon me for posting here when I'm not 50 yet and won't be until this summer. :) Actually, a lot of recumbent riders don't fit the stereotype of a bearded fat guy wobbling at 10 mph and flying a 5-foot whirlygig. I'll never be serious enough with my training to be a true racer, but my lowracer gives me the edge to keep up with all but the fastest roadies, something I take perverse pleasure in doing. Overall, 'bent riders are just as diverse as upright road riders.

Please--What is a 5 foot whirlygig? Thank you.

(Class of '73? Me too.)

Hello!
I'm not as big as you are but I recently went through a bike purchasing process and this forum was very helpful. I had begun with the idea of getting a commuter type bike (sitting upright with a basket) but none of the ones I tried fit so I got a hybrid... still upright but very comfortable, easy on my back, and more efficient than a cruiser. I would say get something that fits and worry less about "style."

I'll add to this reponse..............Don't forget to buy.....and use.....the proper safety gear......a helmet
as well as a safety vest. Now that you're an adult rider you'll ride on the streets so visiblity is VERY
important unless you want to get hit by a passing car. Both pieces of gear are inexpensive and
can save your life. The bikes you'll ride now are NOT kids toys and can be changed to fit you with
different bars, seats, adjustable stems, etc. for a few dollars.

When asked he also stated he had a used Raleigh for $150. Even though that might be in rough shape, I'm thinking it might be most suitable just to see how much biking is going to appeal

I think that's a wise insight. One of the problem with buying articles like computers and bikes is that until you get some miles under your belt, you don't understand all of the parameters well - especially what you want. Even though you can (and should) make an informed judgement, it's not the same as having experienced your likes/dislikes on a long ride where it's physical - not intellectual. My goal was to spend no more than 1K on a mainstream road bike which I did, and I'm learning a tremendous amount (as well as having a lot of fun). But I know it isn't my "ultimate" bike; I'm still figuring that out. A $150 Raleigh might be a little extreme, but if you understand that you're going to learn a lot through the process, the approach makes sense.

Just make sure that you get a good fit. I think that's really the critical thing.

A $150 bike is not an extreme choice for those of us who have lower incomes and cannot afford $1,000 bikes. And that would probably be about 99.9% of the world's population.

The Crossroads has the front shock and the seat post suspention. The seat post suspension is a $15-$20 accessory that can be added to any bike easily. I think the front shock makes the most difference for me. It's better to buy a bike with a front shock already installed, because it can become a expensive and complicated project depending on the components of the bike you are starting with.

I'm reading that FIT is fundamental - it's been years since I've cycled so I've forgotten how different bikes feel. That gives a thumbs down for another way of getting a cheap bike - although I've never heard of them, I've been following a few eBay auctions for Cannondales - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7125196574&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

A $150 bike is not an extreme choice for those of us who have lower incomes and cannot afford $1,000 bikes. And that would probably be about 99.9% of the world's population.

I hear you. It's relative to what the poster was suggesting from his experiences. My concern would be that the fit is wrong, in which case it would not be a well spent $150. FWIW, a couple years ago, I would have thought a thousand dollar bike would be gold-plated.

Please--What is a 5 foot whirlygig? Thank you.

(Class of '73? Me too.)
I don't know the official name, but picture a 2-foot fiberglass hoop, with fabric propeller blades and 5-foot kite-tails, all made from multicolor nylon and mounted with a snap swivel. Slowly spins behind the bike as you ride. Way worse than a bike flag.

Yes, Class of '73. Middle of the Mitten - would that be near Alma? I live in the Lansing area.

I had some strange ideas about bikes and happily my local bike store steered me into a steel hybrid with no suspension except in the seat.
They told me they would exchange stems with me for awhile until I found the right riding position for me.
I also went through three sets of relatively cheap handlebars looking for THE fit.

I would advise any new rider, and especially an overweight rider with back issues, to avoid a cushioned saddle.
I eventually invested a little over a hundred dollars in a Thudbuster (http://www.thudbuster.com/) suspension seat post, and, with a conventional firm saddle, that keeps my back happy.
I highly recommend the Thudbuster to anyone with back issues.

I finally settled in on a position halfway between erect and bent over, and perhaps a little more erect than bent over.
I have a sense of my weight as evenly distributed between my hands, butt and feet.
Getting the correct reach, the distance between my hands and the saddle, seemed the determing factor in my comfort.
In that regard, I recommend a flat bar or riser bar with bar ends.

After my third flat, and a missed appointment, I invested in kevlar reinforced tires.
I ride 24/7, in all kinds of weather, and I can't afford to miss an appointment.
I just seems rude to inflict the consequences of my choice to ride a bike on other people.
I recommend bullet proof tires.
I use Panaracer Tserv's.

I have invested about $1000 in my bike and about the same in clothes, helmet and a good Messenger bag.
Goggles made a surprising contribution to my comfort in cold weather.
$2000 seems like a lot of money, and then again, compared to a car or most hobbies, it doesn't come to much at all.

In a year and a half of riding I have lost 60 pounds of weight, I have a blood pressure of 105/65, and a resting pulse in the mid fifties.
My friends think me a little weird, but they call me Superman, too.

Stack the deck to give yourself the best chance of succeeding, and reap the benfits.
I love riding my bike.
Endorphins have some nice side effects besides the pleasureable state of mind.
When I arrive at my destination, I have a cheerful and alert mindset that works for me in my relationships.
I get along with everyone much better than I did before I started riding my bike, and I get along better with myself, too. :)

Excellent post Ken! You sure strike a few chords with me, particularly about endorphins, a brighter mindset and better relationships, particularly with myself! I get pretty sour after a few days without exercise, forgetting how much endorphins lift my mood and quell anxiety. A fast one hour walk puts me on that road - I'm eager to see how much more a bike will do when the weather allows cycling. Thanks again Ken. Your details will give me a head start this spring.

A $150 bike is not an extreme choice for those of us who have lower incomes and cannot afford $1,000 bikes. And that would probably be about 99.9% of the world's population.

A $300 bike, purchased from an LBS, and serviced by an LBS, will provide at least 10 years of good service. The purchase price works out to about $30 per year of use.

A typical Wal-Mart and K-Mart bike has serious flaws in assembly and set-up from day one, often involving the brakes. Industry studies show that K-Mart type bikes provide less than 500 miles of riding during their career. They are a "one size fits all" bike and bad fit is a serious safety factor.

One year of hard riding is likely to destroy a K-Mart bike. The use of non-standard parts (plastic headset bearings, etc.), means these bikes are non-repairable, or that the costs of repair will be more than the original price of the bike. If someone got two years of hard use out of a $120 K-Mart bike, the purchase cost works out to $60 per year. K-Mart bikes cost TWICE as much per year of use as an entry level LBS bike, while providing half the safety, half the fit, and half the enjoyment.

My job involves working with low income inner city teenagers. Some of the poorest kids in America. Most of the guys have a closet full of "Air Jordans", at $100 a pair. Not unusual to buy five pairs a year. Poor families often make unwise "investments" of their limited funds. Air Jordans are a waste of money. K-Mart bikes are a waste of money.

A $300 bike, properly cared for, can take a young person to school, to a job, to recreationl opportunities...nothing else can provide that sort of value for about $30 per year of use.

In fairness to Roody, the $150 bike was in reference to the used Raleigh at my LBS. The notion was that before investing $600 and up for a decent entry level bike, with limited funds a wise option might be to spend $150 on a trial used bike, just to see if cycling is for me. Cycling to work isn't feasible so any bike is a recreational expenditure, not an investment, competing with other alternatives -- like a 3 month membership at Hard Bodies as one example. So a cheap used bike could be a hedge against a wasted outlay on a new one I might rarely if ever use.

Even as a novice, I'm heading to my LBS -- not for the pricing but for the advice. Wal-Mart, at least in Canada, sells junk. And it's an uphill battle to get them to accept a return no matter what the reason. I hesitate to even buy socks from them.

Riding a bike specifically for fitness doesn't work for me.
I need a destination and a reason to get there, even if I have to invent it.
TrailRider might want to sit down and make a list of destinations for trips on his bike.
Begin with the bike shop itself, and then add trips to the store for small items.
How about appointments with the doctor, lawyer, and candlestick maker?
Think about the places you CAN go on a bike.
I find it enormously satisfying to get my exercise and get where I need to go at the same time; almost better than a free lunch.
If the list of destinations gets long enough to justify a bike, then make a private commitment to eventually not drive a car to any of those destinations, and then work up to them and check them off as doable and done, one by one.
With practice and experience with equipment and clothing, I now consider it normal to ride to appointments and run errands to destinations seven miles away, regardless of weather.
Studded snow tires really help.
If, in the beginning, anyone had suggested to me that I would ever ride with studded snow tires, I would have thought them mad.
Anyway, make a list of places you go every week and figure out which ones you can reach on a bike.
It might take six months of practice to get to that level, but it will bring a joy beyond description.

Give the traditional road bike a FAIR trial before rejecting the concept. This means getting a slightly shorter-reach stem and raising the top of the bars perhaps as high as the saddle, and putting the hands on the brake hoods much of the time. You do not need to be in a full racer's crouch to get most of the benefit of a road bike with little, if any, discomfort. As others have noted, many of us find the "bent-over" position theraputic. Also, consider a good old-fashioned tensioned leather saddle, such as a Brooks B-17 or Brooks Pro. I refuse to part with my old road bikes because I find them so comfortable, efficient, and practical.

If you plan to use a mountain bike predominantly on the street, consider getting higher-pressure, narrower, smoother tyres for it. You'll be amazed by how efficient it can be.

Ken - you list some good suggestions. But biking from my rural home is dangerous - I'm on a 2 lane arterial road, a truck route, with average vehicle speeds near 100 Km/h (60 mph). The shoulders are loosely gravelled and slope toward deep ditches. Disregarding this, a neighbour with hypertension took the advice of his doctor and started to bike to his office in town but within a month was hit and killed. I drive these arterial roads and limited access hiways into work and neighbouring towns - a half hour drive just about anywhere at 80 Km/h. Besides, biking in winter on the west coast might be possible, but here (a stones's throw from Buffalo, NY) it's plain dangerous - you'd break your neck, studded tires or not! Not to mention biking for an hour in 15 F temps with a 20 mile per hour headwind on snow covered ice. In town, it's unlawful to ride on sidewalks. Along the roadside beside snow banks you'd often be a traffic hazard in slippery conditions, annoy drivers and cause traffic delays - you'd likely be stopped by police. Parents forbid their kids to ride bikes in winter for good reason.

I horseback from home to nearby clay roads impassible to even 4x4 trucks much of the year. One of them leads to a gravel road route I use to ride into the post office in a neighbouring small town. But you'd end up a muddy mess trying to drag a bike through a foot of slimey clay.

But there's a beautiful paved recreational trail 150 Km in length that circles the region. It travels along the Niagara River, the international border between the US and Canada, above Niagara Falls past stately homes and 200 year old farmsteads. Winston Churchill described the route beside the River as the most beautiful drive in the world. It's only a 5 minute drive from home - and my diamond in the rough. And Southern Ontario is dotted with similar recreational/biking trails.

Ken - you're lucky to be able to commute on a bike. I'm limited to recreational cycing which isn't half bad.
Mark

John - I have an amusing picture in my mind of all of you at my LBS with me - everyone yelling at me as to which bike to buy! Just my musings, no offense. Before heading off to my LBS, I'll have to print out this thread and analyse it carefully to find a concensus. It's already an interesting read.

John - I have an amusing picture in my mind of all of you at my LBS with me - everyone yelling at me as to which bike to buy! Just my musings, no offense. Before heading off to my LBS, I'll have to print out this thread and analyse it carefully to find a concensus. It's already an interesting read.

Couple of points- If you ask 10 people on what is the best type of bike to get, you will get 10 different answers. The only bikes not mentioned so far are a Tandem and a penny farthing. Any takers for the penny farthing as I can vouch for the Tandem.

On back problems-- I have an occasional back problem and Getting out riding on my Mountain bike completely alleviates this. Stretched out bikes will not necessarily cause the problem.

Talk it over with your LBS. They know what type of terrain you have locally and what type of bike will suit it. If you have no mountainous off road in your area, then it is pointless buying a full suspension Off road bike. Not that I would suggest that in any case. You may be able to eliminate certain types of bike in this way.

It will be possible to sit on the bikes in the shop. 5 minutes on each type will give you an indication of what type suits you. Then do get a test ride. That is the only way to check out a bike.

Good luck in your choice of bike, and hope you will find the muscle relaxant to help you sleep after your first ride.

My situation two years ago was similar to yours. My wife had a bike and I had none. I bought a used bike at a garage sale. The fellow had two, both over 10 years old and both 10 speeds. I straddled them both and took the one that fit me the best. Had it not been close, I would have not taken either. As I was nearly 195 lbs. and 5'4" tall, I was overweight and out of shape. I rode this bike for most of a year and really liked it. One thing that did buy for both bikes is an electronic odometer/speedometer. It makes all the difference in the world to me. I can see how fast I'm going and how far I have gone. I can set goals for myself. I knew then that biking was a good thing and I would continue. I then went bike shopping with my oldest son and looked at several brands of bikes. Trek was a close second in my selection. I ultimately bought Specialized "Crossroads A-1 Elite" in small size for about $450 on close-out. The bike is light, quick, and comfortable with the "Geometry" seat. It looks kind of weird but it fit me so well I bought a "Milano" for the 10-speed.

After two years of riding (after a 40 year hiatus) I have only two gripes about the Crossroads. First, this particular bike came with 26 by 1.5 tires and rims. This increases rolling resistance and makes the longer trips more effort. The factory denied (and the literature states otherwise) that the bike had 26 inch rims and could only have 700C. For traveling on paved roads the 27 by 1-1/4 moves much easier and I suspect the 700C in 28mm would be just about perfect.

I am now begining to look for a better road bike, and it will be a road bike. I like the Speicalized and am looking at Trek and Giant.

After two years of riding (after a 40 year hiatus) I have only two gripes about the Crossroads. First, this particular bike came with 26 by 1.5 tires and rims. This increases rolling resistance and makes the longer trips more effort. The factory denied (and the literature states otherwise) that the bike had 26 inch rims and could only have 700C. For traveling on paved roads the 27 by 1-1/4 moves much easier and I suspect the 700C in 28mm would be just about perfect.

I've got a Crossroads and a Sirrus - I got the Crossroads and rode every day - so 10 weeks later I got the Sirrus its a great bike and actually I find it more comfortable. Either is a great choice. After 8 months my fitness level has improved so much that I'm going to by an Allez Comp (Disclaimer - I'm not over 50, I'm 48 but that likely makes little difference in training level)

The crossroads should have 700C, but there is not control over what the LBS does - my Crossraoads sport was built with an upgraded rear derailer. Perhaps it was set up for trail riding where the 26's would be better?

Hey TrailRider,

I just read your series of posts. I'm in Niagara and have a little experience with the local shops. Let me know how the shopping goes and whether you have any concerns about going in the right direction. I picked up road cycling about 18 months ago and had a lot of good advice (and a little not so good) from the local stores. On the whole, it's been a blast.

By the way, I've cycled out of NOTL to St. Catharines and the Falls without a break since I got started (commuting and for fitness). The 80 km/h traffic is a concern and has it's risks, but I've had more close calls in the Casino district and in downtown St. Catharines than I've ever had in the country.

Hey TrailRider,

I just read your series of posts. I'm in Niagara and have a little experience with the local shops. Let me know how the shopping goes and whether you have any concerns about going in the right direction. I picked up road cycling about 18 months ago and had a lot of good advice (and a little not so good) from the local stores. On the whole, it's been a blast.

By the way, I've cycled out of NOTL to St. Catharines and the Falls without a break since I got started (commuting and for fitness). The 80 km/h traffic is a concern and has it's risks, but I've had more close calls in the Casino district and in downtown St. Catharines than I've ever had in the country.

Hey there! What's the reputation of the Pedlar Bike shop in the Falls? What LBS do you deal with? From what you know is available locally, what's an entry level/priced bike for the recreational trail - and suitable for a few longer excursions?

I live in Stevensville, off Netherby Rd. west of the QEW, where the cyclist was killed.... Throwing a bike in the back of the truck and driving 7 minutes to the Parkway sure appeals. You tackle the Niagara Stone Rd. in this weather? Even with a bicycle lane part of the way, boy that sure takes grit! Rain is bad enough but heading into the west wind in 10 F weather? Yikes!

Good to hear from someone local! Mark

Hey Mark,

I bought my first road bike from Pedlars. They don't specialize in road bikes and only had a couple, but what they did have was perfect for me because I was just getting started. I haven't been in too often because they don't cater to the types of accessories and equipment I'm into.

I'd really have to stick with the advice you've seen from the other posts as far as the type of bike your looking at, I've gotten so wrapped up in the road bike experience that I tend to ignore all the other bikes when I'm walking through the local shops.

I spend some time in Rapid City Cycle, Liberty, BikeFit and Clarkson's in Thorold. I tend to spread my business around because they al have good stuff. You might want to consider a day in Toronto in March for the Toronto International Bike Show (http://http://www.telsec.net/bicycleshow/index.html)

As far as the weather goes, I always think it could always be worse, we could live in Regina. heheh

And, the headwind is a tailwind coming home.

... As far as the weather goes, I always think it could always be worse, we could live in Regina. heheh And, the headwind is a tailwind coming home... With the weather we've had the last week or more, you gotta tell me if you've been riding back and forth to work. Even a polar bear would freeze off his tail, tailwind or not, in these windchills!

Help! Now a month or so later, my choice is down to 2 hybrid bikes at 2 differing LBS's- a 2004 Trek 7100 at a discounted price and a 2005 Norco "Malahat" (http://www.norco.com/05/2005bikes/hybrids.php) which is $30 cheaper still. I was leaning to the Trek but now I've read some bad consumer reviews, specifically rear spokes that break continually and braking rear axles. Both LBSs have excellent reputations. Anyone with experience with these bikes? Mark

Please look into a Recumbent, they usually are more expensive, but are very comfortable

Please look into a Recumbent, they usually are more expensive, but are very comfortable

It's been almost 4 years since the OP's post (01-06-05) and the post just prior to yours. Hopefully the OP has found a suitable bike in those 4 yeears!!

TrailRider's last BF post was 4/23/06.......................

I'm 57, 6'4", and with a lower back that hurts almost every morning when I get out of bed. (I told the wife we should get a waterbed, but she said no.) I take a long bike tour every summer. The morning back situation gets worse when I sleep on the ground (although my Big Agnes air mattress is one of the best products I've found in recent memory!) However, once I get on my bike, the back problem is gone. I ride a road bike with drop handlebars. I think the riding position actually takes the strain off my back and puts it on my arms and hands, which do get tired and sore. I think the riding position stretches out my back and makes it feel better.

I think the upright position on "comfort" bikes would make my back hurt worse.

I think road bikes should be the most prevalent, because most people ride on pavement most of the time. But that's just me.

I suggest you borrow a road bike for awhile. Find someone with an old one they'll let you have for a couple of months. Try it out. Get used to the riding position. Go on a few short rides, then some longer ones. See how the back feels.

A road bike might turn out to be what you like. Then again, you may hate it. I know plenty of people who would never consider a road bike (most of them haven't given one a serious try.)

Couple of points- If you ask 10 people on what is the best type of bike to get, you will get 10 different answers. The only bikes not mentioned so far are a Tandem and a penny farthing. Any takers for the penny farthing as I can vouch for the Tandem.

:thumb:One of my best friends rides is "Penny Farthing/Ordinary" 90% of the time over his bottom level MTB, he loves that thing:love: I ride my DSB MTB and I'm really happy to have it's "crappy level brakes", etc. when we ride together:twitchy:! Your right, bicycles are to each his own, I'm ok with my current Roadmaster Mnt. Sport SX DSB MTB, it's all I can afford to ride, I'd sell a kindney for a Jamis Durango 1 MTB or possibly a decent straight bar tandem for the Mrs. and I but till then, riding a POS DSB is wayyyyy better than not riding at all, jmho.

Trailrider, whatever you buy, I'm sure you will enjoy it since your working with a LBS to start with, bicycles of any type can put a SMILE on your face!:D