General Cycling Discussion - New bike!

Parcel Farce finally delivered my new bike yesterday - a late 70's folding Raleigh Twenty.

I confess I was a little disheartened when I opened the box and saw the condition, the previous owner had described it as "rideable but dirty". To be fair it was rideable, although the tyres were badly cracking. Dirty was an interesting way to describe it - I think the owner had decided used engine oil made the best lubricant, for chain, hub, hinges etc. WD40 a toothbrush and a plastic scouring pad make great cleaning tools, but it took me well over an hour just to do the rear wheel and hub.

The chrome work had a light coating of surface rust, but the aforementioned cleaning, followed by a little Autosol chrome cleaner is working really well, even the three heron chain wheel is coming up fairly nicely. The paintwork isn't terrible, but the decals are badly scratched and their are a fair few nicks with surface rust. I can't find a close match in the autoshops so I think I might respray it - anyone tried Plasticote Spray Enamel?

Mechanically - the cranks and bottom bracket are fine, the Sturmey Archer three speed rear hub works smoothly in the gear it was in, but I haven't adjusted the shifting yet. The centre-pull brakes stopped it well enough at about 15mph, so they'll probably stay.

I was tempted to customize it a bit like Sheldon's but the chrome fenders have come up so well I think a traditional look will suit it better.

Wheels, like just about all the UK released models are 20" but 1"3/8 rims, so no BMX tyres. I picked up some cheap tyres in the right size, that should do okay.

Only real problem is the chain - anyone any idea how to remove a three speed chain - it won't quite fit in my chain tool properly, and I can't find a joining link?

I'll post a pic when I've finished the restoration.

Richard

Remove the chainprotector (if mounted), undue the chainstretchers and the axle bolts.
Now you can take out the rear wheel, without removing the chain.
Btw, my chain tool did fit on my old school bike (3 sp. sturmey archer)

Good luck with the project!

Sorry to say this, but Halfords own brand chain tool will do it. Costs £5

I repainted a bike. First I stripped off the paint, to the metal. I think this was a mistake, since the original primer was quite good.
Now I would key up the surface with some emery, and apply some new primer, then spray on some colour. I used Finnigans no 9 paint from an auto parts shop.
Its better to do this on a warm day, but not a dusty one. Aim for a speckling of paint rather than a complete coat. Several thin coats are much better.
Keep bolts on all the holes to protect the threads, and hang the frame from a wire through the headtube or bottom bracket.

My paint job has lasted 4 years, but is really need to be re-done. I might treat it to a professional re-spray. Any good UK paintshops ?

Sounds like an interesting project Rich!

Hope it goes well for you....

Rich

p.s. Michael...I too am looking for a decent paintsprayers, but don't seem to have any in my local area....I was thinking of going through a frame builder to contact one.

Thanks - I might have to try my neighbours chain tool.

Has anybody tried enamel spray paint as an alternative to cellulose? I wondered whether it might be tougher?

Richard

Michael, Give M. Steel Cycles a phone or email. I just had my Dave Yates resprayed and they did a STUNNINGLY good job. The paint job cost £53 +vat for single colour. The bead blast back to metal, couple of coats of acid primer, several of colour and a coat of laquer with a 120c bake between every coat. The paint is tougher than the paint on cars, it's the proper pukka stuff :).

M. Steel Cycles (http://www.msteelcycles.co.uk)

Here's my new paint job

http://www.btinternet.com/~d.b.wood/yatesy.jpg

Originally posted by Astra
Michael, Give M. Steel Cycles a phone or email. I just had my Dave Yates resprayed and they did a STUNNINGLY good job. The paint job cost £53 +vat for single colour. The bead blast back to metal, couple of coats of acid primer, several of colour and a coat of laquer with a 120c bake between every coat. The paint is tougher than the paint on cars, it's the proper pukka stuff :).



Excellent suggestion. I planned to get my audax/tourer/commuter bike "done up" after 18 hard years. Want to add braze ons for canti's and a front carrier too. Will def give M Steel a try.

Chewa - Good idea, M Steel can do absolutely anything with steel frames ie add/remove/change braze ons, bosses, tubes, cable guides etc. They actually mention rennovating classic bikes on their website. If you email, Dave 'Torchmeister' Yates usually mails back in a couple of hours and doesn't seem to mind how many silly questions people ask him :).

I've e-mailed them to see if they'd consider giving my alloy Alan frame a scrub up..now I realised they only deal with steel frames! :crash:

Rich

Probably a silly question - but how bad a finish would the smooth Hammerite give? Anyone tried it?

Hammerite is pretty good on utility bikes. I used it to touch up the dropouts, and its is very tough stuff.

Bob Jackson is another fine paintshop, at about £45 .

Rich, that's right, proper bike frame materials only :lol: !

Originally posted by Astra
Rich, that's right, proper bike frame materials only :lol: !

Hehe, well Dave reckons he can do it so ner! :D Although it'll cost me £125.00 for the pleasure...maybe I should have a crack at it myself?

Rich

Oops, is your Ti ? If it is, I apologise :o .

Nope it is the Aluminium bike...but thanks you for the apology :lol:

Rich