Bicycle Mechanics - rusty freewheel removal

Hi.
I recently came across a set of campy hubs from the 70s. problem is there is a rusty old freewheel stuck on there. the hubs did not come with rims so i have no leverage to remove it.

i don't mind destroying the freewheel, i just want to salvage the hub.
I have a chain whip and the correct locking removal tool

any help/ tip will be greatly appreciated
i have attached a couple of pics if that helps

Thanks in advance
B

you might need to destroy the freewheel to remove it from the hub . or you could put the hub in a vise with wood or rubber to hold it as you remove the freewheel .

Build it up partially to a rim, then use a standard freewheel tool. Probably don't need all the spokes, but work several of them in.

Who ever unlaced the hub kind'a screw up because now will be even harder to get that stuff off the hub. You cant lever in the hubs.

If you can lace half a wheel and use that to lever the thing out. Hope it works.

Second option if you cant take that out.... start using a dremel (buy several cutting wheels) and go cog by cog cutting. Once the cogs are out...then you have to cut the piece that holds the bearings, once that ones is out together with the bearings you will have the piece that holds the threads... this is the easy part because you have to use a big ass pipe wrench and pretty much maybe at the 1st try will go out.

Once you do one of this ones u never forget what you have to do :D

I would have to admit the every freewheel I have removed was attached to a complete wheel. Since I have never been faced with your exact situation I can only tell you what I would try and it may or may not work.

I would measure the diameter of the center of the hub. I would then make me a wood block. Cut about 4 inch off of a 2 x 4. Draw a center line on the 2 x 4. Then drill a hole on the center line the same size as the diameter of the hub. If the hole is a few thousands bigger or smaller it will not matter. Then saw the block into 2 halves along the center line. The width of the saw blade will give the clearance for the block to clamp the hub tightly. How that you have a wooden vice to hold the hub you need some way to clamp and hold the wood. If you have a bench vice that will open wide enough to hold the 2 x 4 block use that. If not then before sawing the 2 x 4 block into drill two 5/16 holes through the sides of the block and use 4 inch long 5/16 bolts with washers and nuts to clamp the block to the hub. If the hub turns inside the wood block I would try wrapping a strip of sand paper around the hub and clamping it again.

Someone else may have a far better idea. This is what I would try and there are no guarantees.

Build it up partially to a rim, then use a standard freewheel tool. Probably don't need all the spokes, but work several of them in.

In addition lace a few Spectra-fiber emergency replacement spokes (flexible like string, strong like steel) into the drive side flanges and of course into the rim.

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fiberfix.htm

www.twinline-usa.com

Your quest is a noble one, but I have doubts that you'll be satisfied in the end. The freewheel might have been left on simply because it was impossible to remove, and if so the hub may be corroded.

Rather than building and un-building a temporary wheel, you could try driling the flange hole pattern into a big scrap of sheet metal and securing the hub to it with a lot of (small thin) bolts.

You'll obviously need a freewheel remover. Then you can try holding the flange with a band wrench (https://www.google.com/search?q=band+wrench&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=fflb) on the right flange (do not hold the left flange you'll twist the shell. The best way is to put the freewheel remover in a hub and use the band wrench to turn the shell.

****I assume you know how to remove freewheels, if not, ask before you make this worse)

Depending on the band wrench you might get some slippage, so you can help yourself by putting some very coarse lapping compound (abrasive grit in a grease base) on the inside of the band for bite.

If you don't own or can't get a band wrench the right size, you can use a pipe wrench, use an old belt to protect the hub shell.

I would have to admit the every freewheel I have removed was attached to a complete wheel. Since I have never been faced with your exact situation I can only tell you what I would try and it may or may not work.

I would measure the diameter of the center of the hub. I would then make me a wood block. Cut about 4 inch off of a 2 x 4. Draw a center line on the 2 x 4. Then drill a hole on the center line the same size as the diameter of the hub. If the hole is a few thousands bigger or smaller it will not matter. Then saw the block into 2 halves along the center line. The width of the saw blade will give the clearance for the block to clamp the hub tightly. How that you have a wooden vice to hold the hub you need some way to clamp and hold the wood. If you have a bench vice that will open wide enough to hold the 2 x 4 block use that. If not then before sawing the 2 x 4 block into drill two 5/16 holes through the sides of the block and use 4 inch long 5/16 bolts with washers and nuts to clamp the block to the hub. If the hub turns inside the wood block I would try wrapping a strip of sand paper around the hub and clamping it again.

Someone else may have a far better idea. This is what I would try and there are no guarantees.

Ditto on this. I'd try to make a grasping block out of wood and/or hard rubber, and clamp the hub - freewheel side up - in a vise. With the correct freewheel tool you should be able to back it off.
But first, before you put it in your vise jig, spray some WD-40 on the hub threads on the back of the FW. Then heat it for a few seconds with a propane torch. My local bike mechanic couldn't get a FW off for me, so he pulled this trick. The darn FW then came off! Apparently the flame vaporizes the WD-40, and drives it into the thread junction. Plus, the hub (aluminum) expands at a different rate than the FW (steel), so you get a touch of looseness as well. Don't over due it - keep the torch moving at all times. If the WD-40 smokes, no problem. Just don't breathe the vapors.
I wouldn't have believed it either if I hadn't been standing right there and seen it.

i would do destructive removal then lace it up to a junk rim. doesn't even need to be built properly. just lace the drive side with some spokes and then turn the rim

yeah, was annoyed when i found out the hubs weren't attached to a rim. I have several choices now.
hopefully one will work. thank you all for such detailed responses,grandaddybikers 2x 4 plan sounds promising.

B

success! thanks to all..
what a process
soaked overnight in WD40
managed to loosen the bearing shield with a hammer and punch
dismantle the freewheel
more wd40 from the inside
built a wood block jaw set for the hub flanges ( the wood block still slipped in the centre of the hub)
clamped it in the vice
big ol pipe wrench + lockring tool (skewered)

Success!

I was going to say, DO NOT lace just the left-hand flange of the hub to a rim and try to unscrew the freewheel that way. I tried that at my local co-op with a wheel that had a load of broken drive side spokes (no idea how). I twisted the hub barrel in two surprisingly easily, I wasn't using anything like as much force as I've used to remove freewheels from build-up wheel. Since you seem to have managed without lacing it, I'll just say it now for the benefit of anyone who finds this thread by searching.

yeah, i was worried about twisting the hub,
grandaddy bikers wood blocks in the vice jaw worked a treat.
i used a bit of scouring pad on the wood for added traction.