Bicycle Mechanics - Chain Lube

Clean the chain on the bike with Brakleen parts degreaser. Yes this is death to the environment and Bad For You. It's mostly TCE, which if you don't know what that is you don't want to know. On the other hand if you use it sparingly, a can will last you months and months. Compared to what the refinery down the road is dumping into the air, all the amateur bike mechanics in the world are a drop in the bucket.

This will get the chain bright shiny clean. Let it dry (won't take long).

Lube the chain with Liquid Wrench Chain Lube. This beats any cycling specific lube hands down. Stays on well, doesn't attract dirt, lubricates well, doesn't make a mess like waxes. Wipe off the excess, let it sit overnight. Ride.

Tri-flow, light machine oil and 3-in-1 (developed for bike chains BTW in ~1902) all wash off too easily. This stuff really sticks *without* attracting dirt at all.

See you out there!

You can't get a chain clean on the bike. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html

It's true, you can't get a chain 100% clean on the bike. But you can get it plenty clean enough. After 2 miles of riding, it's already dirty again in the rollers anyway. bk

:popcorn

I LOVE chain lube and chain cleaning threads.

I LOVE chain lube and chain cleaning threads.

lol

So, a guy comes to these boards and tells us, "How to do it".
OP, I still prefer my way... what are you going to say about that?
Mineral spirits for cleaning and Superlube aerosol for lube.

It's about time someone started a chain lube thread. :D :p

It's about time someone started a chain lube thread. :D :p

If we don't have one of these at least every 2 weeks or so, some of us get withdrawal symptoms.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PK155B24Mqc

Alrighty then. I'll re=post my favorite lube method for any chain you especially care for that will see hard use or be in long term storage.

Remove chain from bicycle.
Clean the living heck out of the chain in a harsh, earth hostile solvent ( kerosene works great) using a wire brush.
Rinse well using an equally earth hostile carb cleaner.
Put the chain in a shallow pan and slather it with 80-90w gear oil. Swish and shake it around in there real good.
Wipe off as much oil as you can with clean rags or paper towels, give a very quick lite rinse/spray again with carb cleaner and quickly wipe again with a rag.
The idea is to have only a lite film of oil ON the chain but leave oil IN the chain.

Yes, I know this is a lot of work for a stupid chain.

http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean/images/chainclean01.jpg




The ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System (http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html)


It is well-known that proper chain cleaning is the most vital and important aspect of cycling. There are zillions of doo-dads and gimmicks out there intended to make this task easier for spoiled, lazy cyclists.
Unfortunately, there's no "free lunch" in bicycle maintenance, and all of these existing systems are fundamentally mono-buttocked kluges.

The only proper way to clean a bicycle chain is to disassemble it, otherwise there is no way to be sure you've thoroughly cleaned and properly lubricated the critical internal parts where chain wear occurs.

Similarly, there's no way to apply correct lubrication to an assembled chain, since the rollers have different lubrication needs than the link articulation pins do!



While this is an excellent system, it is labor intensive. I've
developed a system that uses dental floss, and i can clean
a chain in under seven hours that way.............:thumb:

http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean/images/chainclean01.jpg




The ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System (http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html)





While this is an excellent system, it is labor intensive. I've
developed a system that uses dental floss, and i can clean
a chain in under seven hours that way.............:thumb:

That is awesome! :D

I wipe, I lube, I wipe, I done.

How often are people removing the chain and getting it "perfectly" clean? Once a week, or way less? bk

I LOVE chain lube and chain cleaning threads.

Same. Gourmet popcorn anyone?

Can anyone cite any semi-scientific testing done?

I'm in the Liquid Wrench camp btw... 1700 miles on the winter bike... pretty used when I bought it. Not showing any added wear. Considering adding some moly to the container...........

I rub my chains in dirt - I find that it attracts lube.

How often are people removing the chain and getting it "perfectly" clean? Once a week, or way less? bk

I give mine the full treatment about twice a year. In between I freshen it with a little 30w and a wipe off.

I rub my chains in dirt - I find that it attracts lube.

+1 If your cassette/freewheel seems a little dry, it really helps to attract lube by laying the bike down in the dirt driveside down and dragging it for about 10 seconds.

I rub my chains in dirt - I find that it attracts lube.

This!

Anybody doing a chain off clean more than twice a year? bk

OP, yes I know what TCE is because I used to work in electronics manufacturing. It's a carcinogen that's readily absorbed through the skin. I don't want to have anything to do with it.

Anybody doing a chain off clean more than twice a year? bk

Yes, but not because I'm a clean fanatic. I rotate multiple chains on each bike at 1,000 miles or so. That means, for example, the chain on my commuter comes off every three months or so. While it's off, each chain gets a long soak in napatha, then (when I have nothing better to do) , I finish the wash, oil the chain, and put it into a zip lock bag until it comes back up on the rotation.

If they weren't off anyway, I'd never bother washing chains. I'd run them through a dry or slightly damp rag once in a long while and re-oil as needed.

A leading Beverly Hills plastic surgeon claims to have found an environmentally friendly way to combine two of America's great obsessions –
after converting his 4x4 to run on fat removed from clients during liposuction operations.


Alan Bittner, who founded a high-profile clinic on Rodeo Drive, the Bond Street of Los Angeles, claims to be able
to power both his Ford Explorer and his girlfriend's Lincoln Navigator on biofuel converted from excess flesh from human tums,
bums and thighs. "The vast majority of my patients request that I use their fat for fuel – and I have more fat than I can use," he says.
"Not only do they get to lose their love handles or chubby belly, but they get to take part in saving the Earth."

Sadly, Dr Bittner is no longer around to bask in his new-found fame. His practice in Beverly Hills suddenly closed shortly
after last month's raid, and he is believed to have moved to South America.
http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/health-and-families/health-news/surgeon-uses-human-fat-to-run-his-cars-1211431.html

Can you say, "This stuff would make a great chain lube ?" Sure you can, boys and girls.:D

So, for all this talk about how great "off bike" chain cleaning is, it's really just "cover" for running around with filthy chains. OTOH, it is comforting to know that when "off bike" chain cleaners actually get around to it, they do a really good job. I've suspected this for a long time. bk

So, for all this talk about how great "off bike" chain cleaning is, it's really just "cover" for running around with filthy chains. OTOH, it is comforting to know that when "off bike" chain cleaners actually get around to it, they do a really good job. I've suspected this for a long time. bk

Sir, I feel I must protest. My chains are not filthy................they are casual.:o

Protest duly noted. bk

every 650 to 750 miles in an ultrasonic cleaner with simple green and water.

Once a week, on the bike, with a towel and evaporating solvent of choice. Takes five minutes and keeps the chain a lot cleaner in the long run. If you spend 10 minutes, you can floss the cassette too. bk

Sir, I feel I must protest. My chains are not filthy................they are casual.:o

Let's have some respect here.

The stuff stuck to chains isn't dirt it's history. It includes dust from recent volcanic eruptions along with dust from centuries of history going back to the dawn of civilization in Mesopotamia, and beyond. Some comes from outer space having traveled millions of miles before being trapped by earth's gravitational pull.

I take my chain off and clean it probably once month or two... Single speeds are sooooo easy, it's actually fun sometimes.

every 650 to 750 miles in an ultrasonic cleaner with simple green and water.

Ultrasonic is a very, very easy way to clean almost all smallish bike parts, including chains, bearings, derailleurs, etc,---if it fits in the tank it will get cleaned. 50/50 water and simple IMO is the stuff to use in the tank, none toxic(as far as I know) and really works great. Wipe the chain/part with a rag just to get the heavy crap off, put into the tank 15-20min(mileage may vary depending on condition of part), remove, dry(parts are hot when they come out, dry pretty fast), lube, done. Do not put any body parts in the solution when the unit is on, bad thiings happen. Units start at under $50 for cheap junk and go and up as high as you care to spend(you know, like bikes). All this has been probably been stated here before, if so pardon the redundancy.

Brian

I get 8-10k miles out of my chains before 1/16" wear.

I don't use an aqueous cleaner. I don't thin my oil. I use an oil recommened by Honda for their motorcycle chains. I never have a clean chain beyond the 1st 10-miles after cleaning & lubing.

I clean my chain by first dipping the whole bike in a vat of gasoline, let soak overnight. Remove from gas and let drip dry. Then remove the chain, resoak in the gasoline for a minute or two, take it out and light it on fire. The throw the flaming chain into a bucket of No. 2 diesel that you keep in your refrigerator. What this does is that when the hot chain goes into the cold oil, the space between the parts cools and pulls the oil into those spaces, thus lubricating the inside of the chain.

I searched for days on the internet tubes and couldn't find any tips on how to clean a bike chain. My chain has been making grinding sounds for months was badly rusted. Now it's beautiful looking and my Di2 Tarmac is much quieter. If you have any tips on how to fix a flat tire that would be great too because I'm tired of carrying my floor pump with me on every ride cause everyone in the peloton makes fun of me.

I searched for days on the internet tubes and couldn't find any tips on how to clean a bike chain. My chain has been making grinding sounds for months was badly rusted. Now it's beautiful looking and my Di2 Tarmac is much quieter. If you have any tips on how to fix a flat tire that would be great too because I'm tired of carrying my floor pump with me on every ride cause everyone in the peloton makes fun of me.



Everyone in the peloton makes fun of you anyway. It is because
you are slow and weak and has nothing to do with your pump.

I clean my chain by first dipping the whole bike in a vat of gasoline, let soak overnight. Remove from gas and let drip dry. Then remove the chain, resoak in the gasoline for a minute or two, take it out and light it on fire. The throw the flaming chain into a bucket of No. 2 diesel that you keep in your refrigerator. What this does is that when the hot chain goes into the cold oil, the space between the parts cools and pulls the oil into those spaces, thus lubricating the inside of the chain.

I like this one............................I'm gonna try it.:thumb:

Everyone in the peloton makes fun of you anyway. It is because
you are slow and weak and has nothing to do with your pump.

That was supposed to be MY secret! (and my mama dresses me funny in shiny black shorts)

I get 8-10k miles out of my chains before 1/16" wear.

I don't use an aqueous cleaner. I don't thin my oil. I use an oil recommened by Honda for their motorcycle chains. I never have a clean chain beyond the 1st 10-miles after cleaning & lubing.

Tell me your secrets! I got 1/6" at 600 miles :cry: How often do​ you clean/lube, and what with?

Tell me your secrets! I got 1/6" at 600 miles :cry: How often do​ you clean/lube, and what with?


I see 3 possibilities

1- you're an animal
2- you're using some seriously poor chain lube (maybe lapping compound?)
3- and most likely, you're measuring with one of those little chain wear gadgets. Those are notorious for reading high, sometimes showing a brand new chain 80% of the way to the (1/16"/12 stretch) replacement point.

If you're not using one of those gadgets, then we're down to 1&2, so congratulations, or you ned to reconsider your choice of oil. Obviously I'm biased, but besides my stuff, the Honda MC oil, Phil Tenacious, straight heavy duty gear oil, or most if not all of the specialty lubes sold for bike chains will do better for you if used according to directions. Fact is the factory grease/oil packed into chains by all the maker will outperform that if you just leave them alone.

Tell me your secrets! I got 1/6" at 600 miles :cry: How often do​ you clean/lube, and what with?

If you're not joking then you need to get a new chain. You may find you have already done so much damage to your chain rings and cogs that the cogs and maybe even the chain rings will need replacement. You'll know when your new chain skips and fails to change gears properly. I change mine out before or by 1/16 at the most. I have, in the past, waited too long and had to replace my cogs but now many chainrings are aluminum and greater care has to be taken to not allow your chain to get too long and damage them

FBinNY, I cannot tell you how many people I see lubing their chain and just plain do it wrong. They'll either use a high viscosity oil and wipe it off too quickly, use way too much light chain lube and never wipe off excess, or absolutely never ever cleaning it. I also find some people think you can oil a chain once and it is okay.

Tell me your secrets! I got 1/6" at 600 miles :cry: How often do​ you clean/lube, and what with?I measure centre-to-centre on the pins between 12 full-links with a metal straight-edge. A lot of chain-durability depends upon your environment. If you off-road on dusty roads or ride in the rain, it's going to be impossible to get very long chain-life no matter what you do. The "dry chain" proponents are in this camp and they don't get more than 2-3k out of their chains before 1/16" wear.

Most of my riding has been race-training on clean tarmac. Anywhere between 8-12k miles/year for 10-years straight. Here's a good thread where we discussed oil & maintenance regimen: THe pro's chain lube (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/644314-THe-pro-s-chain-lube/page4). FB & I go into the nitty-gritty background behind chain-lubes and what makes it work and why it doesn't have the same tasks as auto-oil and why an auto-oil is not the proper lube for chains.

BTW - there's a lot of misconceptions & not-updated information on chains. The vast majority of bicycle-chains in use nowadays are bushingless chains. These are tremendously different in construction, maintenance and lubrication requirements than the bushing chains of yore. First, the much, much smaller contact-area of bushingless chains place a much higher demand on the lubrication's extreme-pressure and anti-wear properties. The larger clearances also makes thinning your oil an artifact of the past. You no longer have to worry about wicking oil into the tight clearances at the ends of the bushings where they meet the end-plates (air is no longer trapped inside a bushing with nowhere to go).

In the end, the results speak for themselves, 8-10k miles before 1/16" wear. FB's Chain-L lube is amongst the best.

If you're not joking then you need to get a new chain. You may find you have already done so much damage to your chain rings and cogs that the cogs and maybe even the chain rings will need replacement. You'll know when your new chain skips and fails to change gears properly. I change mine out before or by 1/16 at the most. I have, in the past, waited too long and had to replace my cogs but now many chainrings are aluminum and greater care has to be taken to not allow your chain to get too long and damage them


1- you're an animal


Thank you :P Seriously, yes, I was measuring with one of these chain tools, but the chain had started skipping, so that was when I asked the LBS to measure it. All sprockets and chainrings were replaced at no small charge. I am using a special (bike chain) wet lube on it, and often clean it with Muc-Off degreaser and one of their machine thingies, dry it, leave it for a while and then oil it. Next time I'm at a Honda dealer I might look for some of their oil in that case.

And DannoXYZ, I have no idea which type of chain I have. How do I tell the difference?

I am using a special (bike chain) wet lube on it, and often clean it with Muc-Off degreaser and one of their machine thingies, dry it, leave it for a while and then oil it.


This may be the root of your problem. There are two issues.

1- Depending on how dirty the chain is and how well you rinse, you might actually be washing more dirt deeper into the chain than you;re washing out. Once you start washing this way, you need to change the solution, and continue rinsing until All the dirt is flushed form the chain. This can involve a number of rinses, and some black may continue coming out almost forever, so you'll make a judgement call after a few rinses and call it quits.

2- Washing with good solvent strips out all the factory lube, making you all the more dependent on the quality of the replacement lube, and the way you apply it.

3- The main problem with washing is that most people don't give the chain enough time to dry. This is especially true of water based cleaning solutions, which can stay trapped withing the chain for an amazingly long time (if you've ever have water run under a glass table top you know how long long can be. Some other solutions such as diesel fuel, kerosene and other similar distillates will never dry on their own at room temp.

Thoroughly drying is absolutely critical, because your newly applied lube needs to get into the chain which it cannot do in the inner spaces are still full of cleaning solution (try wiping up a spill with a wet paper towel). If you're washing on the bike the best way to ensure the chain is dry is to put the entire bike into a solar oven.

Nothing new to buy here, you probably have one sitting in front of your house. Put the bike inside your car, with one window cracked open about 1/2" and leave it in the sun for the afternoon. Now you can apply a decent lube, and give it time so soak in, (from 10 seconds to 20 minutes according to what you use). Wipe off excess, and you're good to go.

You might be able to reduce the washing frequency by keeping the outside of the chain free of excess oil. Wipe off after lubing, and dry wipe it as needed to avoid building up dirt and dust. In many cases you can dry wipe the chain decently clean before lubing, sparing yourself the washing ordeal altogether.

Dry wiping after every ride(obviously not if you just ride to a store near you, etc) probably prolongs the need to clean/lube. Will it help for sure? Don't know, but it seems like common sense. Yeah, sounds like a hassle, but takes about 10 seconds. Get off your bike, hold a paper towel/clean rag on the chain sides with one hand and spin the cranks backwards with the other. prevents buildup of crap that may work its way inside the chain. Even dry wiping every few rides is better than letting it go until there's a layer of easily seen of crud. .

Brian

I stopped cleaning my chains off the bike about 8 years ago, and the chains last the same length of time. I use the FinishLine Chain cleaning machine and it does a good enough job that the chain's durability is not compromised, and that's good enough for me. In fact there's been plenty of talk that deep cleaning a chain is bad for the chain because it removes vital lubricant from deep inside the chain that can't get lubed by conventional method of drip lubes. All I know is that my chains last the same length of time whether I deep cleaned or used the cleaning machine.

I do know that whenever I used waxed based lubes my chains did not last as long, in fact they lasted only a third as long with wax vs petro based lubes. I can see the difference in lubes used on chains but not cleaning methods.

Dry wiping after every ride(obviously not if you just ride to a store near you, etc) probably prolongs the need to clean/lube. Will it help for sure? Don't know, but it seems like common sense.

After every ride is probably a bit of overkill. You can see what the chain has picked up - it's glued there on the outside. When you decide it's too much, dry wipe the chain and you're good. There's an advantage to dry wiping vs. washing, and that's that it removes dirt and the excess lube on the outside, without removing or compromising the lube inside (where it's needed). That means you don't need to relube as often, and after a few wipes the outside is dry enough that it picks much less dirt.

Interesting idea with the car based sun oven, though I don't think my Dad is going to let my put my mucky bike in his new car. I do have a chain breaker, so maybe I need to take the chain off and give it a really good clean every so often. I do try to leave the chain to dry for a couple of hours, but I don't think there's much I can do about it without buying a massive kiln to go in the sheds.

Calstar, I usually do that, especially after a long ride or one in the wet. Unfortunately most of my rides are currently two miles each way at the moment due to college, but none the less there's a lot of wiping going on. One thing I do notice is that the pulleys on the derallieur seem to get a lot of muck stuck to them, no matter how much I clean them. Is there much I can do about that? It seems to happen on and off road and in all weathers.

Thanks for all the replies by the way. Nice to see so much knowledge :D

Interesting idea with the car based sun oven, though I don't think my Dad is going to let my put my mucky bike in his new car. :D

If you put the bike on pavement (esp blacktop) with some protection under it and secure a clear plastic tarp over it I think you would get the same effect. I do that to solarize planting beds and weeds that I have pulled.

Alternatively - you could skip the whole chain lube thing by buying a really inexpensive bike from one of a few popular BBSs and rest easy knowing that the chain will easily last as long as the rest of the bike! :p