Classic & Vintage - Brake Lever Hoods with Turkey Wings--Success

I needed new handlebar tape and decided to put some brake lever hoods on. About a week ago I posted here asking if it were even possible to put hoods on brake levers with turkey wings, and a few users enlightened me (especially dddd) on how to do it. I was asked to post pictures of it once I was done, so here goes.

Thanks a lot, guys!
I don't know how to post pictures into a thread without making them the click-and-enlarge kind, so here goes. If any of you could enlighten me on that process, I'd be forever thankful. :p

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Without the turkey wings, my brake levers can't operate, so removing them is out of the question. putting the hoods on was remarkably easy, though. Just had to take the whole lever apart, put the hood on, and take a razor blade to the screw holes; then just put it all back together!

THAT was a clean installation! Good job with the cutting, I have to say.

For those not familiar with these particular 1970's levers, the turkey wings are the solid PRIMARY actuator to the cable, with the normal main lever actually second-in-command. These levers were never offered with hoods, and need the big hole cutout because of the huge, protruding (and rotating with lever movement) screw-head on the side of each lever.

The new cockpit looks like a huge upgrade on this bike.

To put a normal-sized photo in your post, get the cursor where you'll want the photo in your post just before adding your photo by clicking the "insert image" icon.

When the dialog box appears, click the "FromURL" TAB, then UN-check the little "retrieve remote..." box below the URL entry line.
Then just paste the URL for the actual, appropriately-sized photo you want to post, click the "OK" button, and click the SAVE button to complete your posting.

The photo should then appear normal-sized.

This thread is relevant to my interests.

I've got some nice DiaCompe levers, nice DiaCompe hoods, Suntour bar ends and a bunch of beers.

Thank you!
And yes, it's amazing how re-doing the cockpit makes the whole bike look that much better. Went on a nice ride today to break it in. :)


THAT was a clean installation! Good job with the cutting, I have to say.

For those not familiar with these particular 1970's levers, the turkey wings are the solid PRIMARY actuator to the cable, with the normal main lever actually second-in-command. These levers were never offered with hoods, and need the big hole cutout because of the huge, protruding (and rotating with lever movement) screw-head on the side of each lever.

The new cockpit looks like a huge upgrade on this bike.

Whoa, I've never seen a lever of that type! That's kind of a sophisticated way of doing that, so long as you're committed to using the turkey-wing.

Those hoods modify easy and seem like they'll last a long time. I drilled the tops open a bit for some barrel adjusters and trimmed the bottom for lever movement on a set, and they're still working nice after two years of semi-frequent use.

I did a pair of those myself for a friend, so took a picture today in her basement.

I found it very amusing that dylan's bike, and this bike here (Concord DeLuxe), are both lower-mid level Japanese bikes that came stock with DURA-ACE brakesets! That screw head rotates with, and screws DIRECTLY into the turkey lever's integral shaft.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8028/7602671778_43c458dde2_z.jpg

I have a old Fuji bike with these levers and I love them.

Where did you guys buy these hoods and also appreciate the thread where dddd gave the instruction. I cannot find it in a search.

Thanks,

dddd, nicely done! Much better than my installation, I must say.


I have a old Fuji bike with these levers and I love them.

Where did you guys buy these hoods and also appreciate the thread where dddd gave the instruction. I cannot find it in a search.

Thanks,

These hoods are your regular Cane Creek brake lever hoods--I got mine off Amazon for 9- bucks.
All you really have to do is figure out where that screw needs to go and take an exacto knife to it.

I just wish I could find a set of the shipmano Exage aero levers w/ safety extensions. But these will do for now.

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=274700&d=1348527827

274700

I am thinking about either doing away with mine or doing this. I like to ride on the hoods but the stock levers hurt after a while, will the hood covers really help?

(Also if I am incorrectly using terminology just holler!)

I am thinking about either doing away with mine or doing this. I like to ride on the hoods but the stock levers hurt after a while, will the hood covers really help?


The Cane-Creek hoods are pretty thick, so will not only have a softer feel and better grip, but will also increase the suface area quite a bit, which should all translate into much lower "contact pressure" with the bones in your hand.

The Cane-Creek hoods are prone to splitting if you try to fold the open end of the hood back on itself, because of the extra thickness but also because of a different rubber formulation, so use appropriate care when fitting the bar tape around the levers.

The Exage aero levers are quite rare with auxiliary levers attached, but any regular aero or Ergo/STI levers will allow modern auxilliary "cyclocross" levers to be used instead, clamping on and interrupting the cable housings along the upper part of the bars.

I have a old Fuji bike with these levers and I love them.

Where did you guys buy these hoods and also appreciate the thread where dddd gave the instruction. I cannot find it in a search.

Thanks,


Here's the text of the instructions that I sent to Dylan:

Re: Cane Creek Lever Hoods
You don't want to cut any holes until the hood is on the lever body.

First you've got to take the BIG screw out, then unscrew the cable head latch lever that's inside the lever and points FOREWARD. Use the slot for a screwdriver.
Then the aux lever should slide out.
It's been 1.5yrs since I did this, so take note of any little washers and the order of disassembly.
Do one complete lever first. If you need to refer to the one that's still assembled you'll have it as a reference for correct assembly.

With the hood in place nice and straight on the body, first cut the hole where the aux lever protrudes, just big enough for clearance with the lever. This is a custom-fit, so use care for a good look later.

I forget exactly how I did the bigger hole. I think I put a small hole there first, so I could screw the BIG screw into the threaded hole in the aux lever pivot shaft, holding it centered that way so I could then cut precisely around it.
This is the most-visible part of your modification, so keep the hood stationary and use a really sharp blade with a slow cutting action for accuracy. Cutting the smaller hole first will give you some practice with that sharp blade cutting the thick rubber.

BTW, these hoods will slide easily over the lever bodies from the FRONT, once the cable and aux lever are removed, and with a spritz of rubbing alcohol to slide the hood precisely in place where it wants to go.
So maybe the levers bodies can even remain clampeded to the bars if you prefer, while all the work is done.

I'm pulling for you here, so you can post a photo of a sanitary installation. Like I said, these levers never came with hoods, so it's a nice custom touch if the holes line up.

Also, if you have some LocTite handy, I would put a small spot of the stuff on the big screw's threads to prevent it loosening.

dddd

OK, loubapache, post a photo of your work too, if you can.

Thanks, dddd. Will try to get the hoods.

Right now, I have been hooked onto the old 3-speed hubs.