Classic & Vintage - what is your secret technique for clean paint in pantograhped parts
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07-16-12, 05:34 PM
I am cleaning up and repainting as needed torpado pantographed seat post, crank, stem, seat stay and fork sholder.
Any suggestions on getting a nice durable paint fill and keeping the paint in the engraved area?
07-16-12, 05:38 PM
I think you wanted this in the main C&V forum. ;)
07-16-12, 05:40 PM
you are correct I will get mods to move
07-16-12, 05:45 PM
This must have been meant for the regular forum, and not the sales sub-forum. Mods, can you move this? (^Beat me to it while writing)
Meanwhile, I'll start...I did quite a bit of fill paint on my last build. I simply applied a generous amount of paint right over the panto/engraved area, waited 15 minutes or so until it started to get a little tacky, and then wiped of the excess with a clean rag. You can also wait a little longer, maybe an hour, and scratch off the excess with your fingernail. I used a fine model brush with a flat brush tip. The hard bristles help to push in the paint into the panto/engraved areas. I've only done this for one bike, so I'd be curios to hear how some of the experts such as Drillium Dude and Otis go about it.
Since I just spent an hour doing a five color group for a Kessels I'll give you a few tips.
Clean your parts with q-tips, toothpicks, and some thinner before you start.
If you are doing flutes on a post, stem, or crank it's really worth buying a good sign-painters brush (about $13). I also suggest buying One-Shot sign paint over model enamels, but if you are only doing a few parts that might be too much money. But One-Shot flows out nice and is meant for signs and pin-striping so it will hold up really well. Again, not a big issue for filling lettering and logos, but if you want a long flute to look nice with no lap marks it's the way to go.
The best way to get a clean line and take overage off is first not to get too much overage (again why a good brush is handy). But basically fill your designs and flutes. Let sit up a bit (5-20 minutes). Take a smooth rag or not so linty paper towel. Fold and hold over the opening of your thinner can and splash on some thinner. Blot that on a clean rag (you don't want it soaking wet. I wrap a bit over my index finger and then wipe away any excess paint. THE most important tip is wipe only ONCE in ONE direction (no back to front jokes here, children). Do not go back and forth, and always pick a clean spot on your rag before making a another pass. That sounds simple, but it's common nature to try to keep wiping missed spots as you go, and this just makes a mess. Always use a fresh part of the rag.
If you are doing multiple colors you might find it easier to do one at a time and let them dry completely before moving on to the next.
07-16-12, 08:29 PM
Good stuff Otis.
07-16-12, 09:04 PM
Since someone asked :)
I do it quick and sloppy - and 24 hours later take off all the excess paint with some Goof-Off on a rag. Similar process to what gaucho777 suggests, just with a paint remover on the rag, in other words.
I use a paint brush - nothing fancy, just Testors modelling brushes - on component pantographs/flutes/engravings.
I use a toothpick if I'm doing something like a frame cutout/window - in those instances, Goof-Off on a rag is not a good idea!
And once I used a spraycan of Tamiya acrylic black on a Super Record seatpost I milled out; I painted the inside and the edges of the flutes this way, taping off the head of the post. Once done, I did the Goof-Off on a rag trick.
One last thing: whether it's a frame cutout/window or a component engraving, keep it level when you apply the paint and while it dries; you don't want it pooling at one end.
Good luck - and I hope we get to see your results. I like pantographing :)
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