Commuting - Is a commuting bike a touring bike?

Touring bikes and commuters are rarer than racing bikes and mountain bikes If you design a bike that tours and commutes maybe the manufacturers will start making them.

that's called a surly cross check cyclos cross bike.

I don't get it, what are you looking for. Many companies now have flat bar road bikes which IMO seem to be a good choice for Commuting and or Touring. For instance my Marin Mill Valler has 700c wheels centilever brakes plenty of room and braze-ons for racks and fenders and larger 700c tires plus a more upright riding position. Anything missing that you need for commuting or touring?

It could be.

No. But a touring bike is definately a commuter bike.
And yes. By all means make it a CrossCheck.

DanO

There are plenty of bikes on the market now that fit that description. It's not really a rare thing.

There are plenty of bikes on the market now that fit that description. It's not really a rare thing.

For me, the ideal bike that could be used for both commuting and loaded touring would have chainstays at least 18 inches long (to use wide saddlebags), a wheelbase 42 inches long (to soak up rough roads), braze-ons for front and rear racks, braze-ons for fenders, and clearance under the brakes for beefy tires (at least 32mm or larger) plus room for fenders.

If there are "plenty" of bikes on the market like what I am describing, they are well hidden at Houston bike stores.

Check out the Specialized Sirrus. I just got me one.

Touring bikes and commuters are rarer than racing bikes and mountain bikes If you design a bike that tours and commutes maybe the manufacturers will start making them.

Surly Long Haul Trucker. :D There are others, too, but you have to dig to find them.

My touring bike I use for both touring and commuting..I carry too much stuff to work, I guess...So it works for me.

If there are "plenty" of bikes on the market like what I am describing, they are well hidden at Houston bike stores.

They are well hidden at most bike stores. For whatever reason, the market seems to have fallen into two categories - MTBs which are often impractical (and almost always inefficient, as spec'ed), or racing bikes. The former seem to come with varying degrees of suspension and knobby tires. Not so hot for a road commute, at best. These may have rack/fender brazeons, but often do not.

The racing bikes, if they actually do have fender clearance along with clearance for wide enough tires for comfort/durability, often lack braze ons. And almost always lack chainstays with heel clearance.

Either bike is a sub-par commuter.

The alternative, the hybrid, is OK for short commutes and noodling around town, but falls flat for longer commutes.

You can get an LHT or a Cross check or a Soma double cross or a Soma Smoothie ES, but try and find one stocked/built up.

When you consider how much time your average rider spends actually (a) offroad or (b) racing versus the time they could spend profitably commuting, or just running around town with a practical bike, it makes no sense.

From mainstream manufacturers there is the Specialized Sequoia. This seems perfect for commuting, if a little flash to be left unattended on the street.

A commuting bike is one that has wheels. And all the stuff to make the wheels go. That's all that's really needed. I commute to work on a mountain bike, on a touring bike, on a very short and sporty road bike. I've even commuted on a tandem. Commuter bikes don't have to be task specific, they just have to go.

Stuart Black

I ride my Bianchi Volpe 4 miles to work everyday. I also rode it 5,000 miles across the country. I guess if you're totally anal about comfort and weight and all that, then you'll need a different bike for every application... that's good for bike manufacturers, bad for your garage.

So, do they make a commuter bike that's also a touring bike? I think the real question is, will you ride your touring bike to work; will you tour on your commuter?

Yep, 'cos I have one do-all everyday workhorse bike. Get a bike you're happy on every day and there's no reason not to take it on tour!

A commuting bike is one that has wheels. And all the stuff to make the wheels go. That's all that's really needed. I commute to work on a mountain bike, on a touring bike, on a very short and sporty road bike. I've even commuted on a tandem. Commuter bikes don't have to be task specific, they just have to go.

Stuart Black

yup. couldnt of said it better myself. anything can be a commuter or tourer. you could even use a mtb for a road race if you wanted to. you wont win any races, or anything, but you could.

The bike shops stock what sells, and the manufacturers make what sells. There is a lot of overlap for the jobs that different bikes can do. There is a huge amount of overlap of the definition of commuting or touring. There are bikes made and sold as touring bikes. They need to go a long way, be reliable, and safely carry a lot of weight. They make wonderful commuter bikes..

Just about anything can be a commuter bike for someone.

A track bike with no brakes, to an all out down hill bike, to a $10,000 road bike. For me personally a commuter has fenders, a huge mud flap, and is somewhat of a beater bike too not attract to much attention, and so I don't leave my best bikes locked up outside unattended. I use a single speed with fenders, and two or three bikes I bought for a few bucks and added fenders. I can use an mtb with studded tires in the snow and ice.

If I lived in L.A. and could store my bike in my own office, then I could ride an expensive road bike every day, and be happy.

I think this makes it hard to market a bike labeled as mainly for commuting.

Thanks everybody With 16.7 inch chainstays my feet hit the brakes never mind panier clearance. A commuter needs a stronger frame longer chainstays and stronger wheels. The people putting the most stress on the wheels would be people with a child in a safety seat on the back. There was an article in cycling science that tested a lugged joint and a bronzed welded joint and a tig welded joint. The lugged joint was over twice as strong as the tig welded one. A tig welded frame needs bigger tubes the surley uses a 1 x 1/8 seat tube.

Thanks everybody With 16.7 inch chainstays my feet hit the brakes never mind panier clearance. A commuter needs a stronger frame longer chainstays and stronger wheels. The people putting the most stress on the wheels would be people with a child in a safety seat on the back. There was an article in cycling science that tested a lugged joint and a bronzed welded joint and a tig welded joint. The lugged joint was over twice as strong as the tig welded one. A tig welded frame needs bigger tubes the surley uses a 1 x 1/8 seat tube.

My understanding is that welded construction superseded lugged construction simply because it is cheaper mass produce welded bikes. A lugged steel frame will have significantly stronger joints than a welded steel frame of the same quality. Don't know about weight, but that's not very relevant for a tourer/commuter.

Those older touring bikes make great commuters! :D

Hmm, I was half tempted to trade in my mountain bike for either a LHT or cross-check...so in comparison, what's the differences between them? Can they both use wide tires, riding stance, etc?

FWIW, my current commuter is a road racer, and it really doesnt seem to like the rough roads it's seen the past month. my mountain bike is just not fast enough to deal with traffic, so I'm looking for something in between.

Hmm, I was half tempted to trade in my mountain bike for either a LHT or cross-check...so in comparison, what's the differences between them? Can they both use wide tires, riding stance, etc?

FWIW, my current commuter is a road racer, and it really doesnt seem to like the rough roads it's seen the past month. my mountain bike is just not fast enough to deal with traffic, so I'm looking for something in between.

If you want to use fat tires, you need surly's large marge.

What is slow about your mtn bike? Mine's slow, but I have fat, agressive tires. If I get off my lazy @ss and actually start commuting I'll put slicks on there. Its pretty easy to tell myself that now ain't the time to start commuting, though it has warmed up to 20° today.

I'm happy with mine:
http://www.gunnarbikes.com/sport.php

If you want to use fat tires, you need surly's large marge.

uhh, those are rims for snow tires... unless your commuting across unplowed roads preparing for the iditarod, your gonna NOT want those.

i built my surly crosscheck for about 600-700 bucks total, new frame, used wheelset, and used parts from my garage. i can't imagine anything much more versitile for commuting/touring for 400/500 bucks (except maybe something you find in the trash or used at a thriftshop).

i'd imagine the long haul truckers gotta ride like a cadillac as this bike is pretty damn stable already.

Touring bikes and commuters are rarer than racing bikes and mountain bikes If you design a bike that tours and commutes maybe the manufacturers will start making them.

It seems like any touring bike should make a good commuter.

Cyclocross bikes might be worth looking at, I have a LeMond Poprad and that has plenty of clearance for any tire/fender combo you might want and with a rack on the back it seems to work well. I can't use some of the bigger panniers because I have size 14 feet and I kick them. It does have 17" chainstays though and I think you will have to get a touring bike to get longer ones.

Some of the hybrids or 29" mountain bikes look like they might work well if you prefer straight handlebars. I thought the Trek 7700 FX looked pretty good. My brother plans to build a karate monkey for commuting, it should be just about bullet proof.

Hmm, I was half tempted to trade in my mountain bike for either a LHT or cross-check...so in comparison, what's the differences between them? Can they both use wide tires, riding stance, etc?

Those questions and more can be answered at Surly's site. Just look under the Frames section.

A brief glance shows the Cross Check taking only 700cm tires, up to 45mm, with fender clearance.
The LHT takes 26" tires up to 2.1", and 700c tires on only the larger sized frames. So the LHT
can take wider tires, but 45mm seems wide to me. Maybe not to some.

Hmm, I was half tempted to trade in my mountain bike for either a LHT or cross-check...so in comparison, what's the differences between them? Can they both use wide tires, riding stance, etc?


The LHT has longer chainstays so you could carry larger panniers without kicking them.

I bought my 2005 Poprad as a commuter/tourer. I'll be doing more commuting on it than touring. But, I think it will work well if I ever get a tour planned. I did 1500 miles through France years ago on a Diamond Back Apex mountain bike with hp bald tires and loaded with front/rear panniers. I had no complaints about the Apex. I think the Poprad will do better than that. It's a real comfy and reasonably efficient ride so far!

My commuter has ended up, quite accidentally, looking like a flat-bar cyclo cross bike. It's got canti brakes, CroMo frame, Deore LX/XT drivetrain, 700x38 light-tread tires. It's nearly identical to a co-worker's 2001 Bianchi Volpe except hers has drop bars with Tiagra shifters.

uhh, those are rims for snow tires... unless your commuting across unplowed roads preparing for the iditarod, your gonna NOT want those.

I stand corrected. I routinely confuse the rims with the bike for which they were designed. The Pugsly.

http://forum.bikemag.com/forum/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=78585&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=56&vc=1

my only dissapointment is the LHT is a 26" in my size :(

To me it seems a bit against the point of the efficiency of a roadbike to move to smaller rims....I could be totally off here, but that's just my first thought.

It seems that as the frame size changes, the wheel size also needs to change in order to maintain ideal geometry. Theoretically, each frame size should have different size wheels. However, that ain't so practical. Look at it this way - the 26" wheels are stronger. Anyway, wheel size shouldn't impact efficiency at all, just use a narrow 26" rim & narrow tires. Choose a gear ratio based on your wheel size; the efficiency of your legs' energy getting applied to the road shouldn't change because of wheel size.

my only dissapointment is the LHT is a 26" in my size :(

To me it seems a bit against the point of the efficiency of a roadbike to move to smaller rims....I could be totally off here, but that's just my first thought.

I went biking a few times last summer with a woman from work. She has a small bike with smaller rims, I forget the size but they're metric and smaller than 700c, maybe about the same size as 26". Anyway, she had no problem keeping up with me on my road bike and despite weighing less and having smaller rims she would blow past me on the downhills because she was more aerodynamic. I guess I'm trying to say that I don't think smaller wheels slowed her down much.

I went biking a few times last summer with a woman from work. She has a small bike with smaller rims, I forget the size but they're metric and smaller than 700c, maybe about the same size as 26". Anyway, she had no problem keeping up with me on my road bike and despite weighing less and having smaller rims she would blow past me on the downhills because she was more aerodynamic. I guess I'm trying to say that I don't think smaller wheels slowed her down much.

Mountain bike wheels are called "26 inch". Road wheels of the same size are called "650C" (French sizing). They're the same size bead seat, but you'll probably have better luck finding quality narrow rims and tires if you look for 650's. See Sheldon Brown's tire sizing (http://sheldonbrown.com/tire_sizing.html#french) for more info.

Mountain bike wheels are called "26 inch". Road wheels of the same size are called "650C" (French sizing). They're the same size bead seat, but you'll probably have better luck finding quality narrow rims and tires if you look for 650's. See Sheldon Brown's tire sizing (http://sheldonbrown.com/tire_sizing.html#french) for more info.

i thought the same thing (i have an old tri bike with a 650 front wheel) but 650c tires will not work on 26" mtb rims, they are too big.... i know cause i was gonna throw a couple of my old 650's on my GF's mtb to see if she dug road riding but it just didn't work... you might be able to get 650c rims AND tires to work on a mtb but you cant interchange 650c and 26" wheels and tires (at least in my experience)....

i thought the same thing (i have an old tri bike with a 650 front wheel) but 650c tires will not work on 26" mtb rims, they are too big.... i know cause i was gonna throw a couple of my old 650's on my GF's mtb to see if she dug road riding but it just didn't work... you might be able to get 650c rims AND tires to work on a mtb but you cant interchange 650c and 26" wheels and tires (at least in my experience)....

Ya, so I looked at Sheldon Brown again and it turns out that (believe it or not) not all 26" tires have the same bead size!! So 650C is the same as 26x1 1/2" tire, but not 26x2" tire!!!! It's nuts...

Ya, so I looked at Sheldon Brown again and it turns out that (believe it or not) not all 26" tires have the same bead size!! So 650C is the same as 26x1 1/2" tire, but not 26x2" tire!!!! It's nuts...

It gets even worse. A 26x1 1/2 tire is not the same size as a 26x 1.5. Decimal sizes are different from fractionals. Try explaining that to my 3rd grade teacher :eek:

I guess the moral of the story is...

Just because your bike comes with small ("mountain-sized") wheels doesn't mean that you can't get small rims and small tires for it, even if it is extremely confused. Hopefully the bead seat of the rims is appropriate for 650C road tires rather than 26"xWhatever mountain tires.

My head hurts.

I guess the moral of the story is...

Just because your bike comes with small ("mountain-sized") wheels doesn't mean that you can't get small rims and small tires for it, even if it is extremely confused. Hopefully the bead seat of the rims is appropriate for 650C road tires rather than 26"xWhatever mountain tires.

My head hurts.

If you really want to make your head hurt, add in smaller wheels and tires. They come in fractional, decimal and a metric version in a whole variety of diameters. It's really fun to keep them all straight.

It seems like any touring bike should make a good commuter.

Cyclocross bikes might be worth looking at, I have a LeMond Poprad and that has plenty of clearance for any tire/fender combo you might want and with a rack on the back it seems to work well. I can't use some of the bigger panniers because I have size 14 feet and I kick them. It does have 17" chainstays though and I think you will have to get a touring bike to get longer ones.

Some of the hybrids or 29" mountain bikes look like they might work well if you prefer straight handlebars. I thought the Trek 7700 FX looked pretty good. My brother plans to build a karate monkey for commuting, it should be just about bullet proof.

The 700 FX is a NICE bike, i have one.
It comes with 38mm tires, i am sure you could get slightly fatter ones if you thought you needed to.

I am convinced that a cross bike is a good commuter because my commuter bike has been evolving into one. I realized that with every upgrade I make, it's starting to look more like a cross bike. The other day I was thinking about putting a longer stem and drop bars, and if I do that, the transformation will be complete :)

I am convinced that a cross bike is a good commuter because my commuter bike has been evolving into one. I realized that with every upgrade I make, it's starting to look more like a cross bike. The other day I was thinking about putting a longer stem and drop bars, and if I do that, the transformation will be complete :)

Considering that before they got all uppity and purpose driven, crossbikes were just modified touring bikes, it isn't too suprising that your commuter bike resembles a crossbike.

Considering that before they got all uppity and purpose driven, crossbikes were just modified touring bikes, it isn't too suprising that your commuter bike resembles a crossbike.
Hehe, ya, I was being slightly facetious, considering that my bike started out as a Trek Multitrack frame (apparently what they call "decent touring frame and wheels with crappy comfort bike components").

I started out looking at cyclocross bikes as my commuter, but two of the local bike shops told me I would want a more erect riding position, and they recommended what they call hybrids.

I now ride a Jamis Coda Sport with a steel frame and forks, fenders, V brakes, modest-rise bars and bar ends, a bar mirror on the left, a rear rack and saddle-bag type pannier, and a Messenger Bag.

Since I mix as much as I do with urban traffic, the upright position, flat bars and bar ends have proven their worth.
On dry pavement I ride with Panacracer T-servs; in snow I ride with Innova studded tires; and, in both cases, 35mm.
The thicker tires have made road debris less of a threat, and I feel like I've made a good trade of safety for speed.

So, for me, a commuter has a more upright position than I see on most touring bikes, although certainly not in the comfort bike class.
Also, I find the 35mm tires the least width I feel safe with in the dark and in all road conditions.

So, for me, a commuter has a more upright position than I see on most touring bikes, although certainly not in the comfort bike class.
Also, I find the 35mm tires the least width I feel safe with in the dark and in all road conditions.

Yeah, I think that's about where my commuter lies. As I've gotten to be a more agressive rider, I feel like I'd rather be a little more leaned forward. But I should be able to fix this with a new stem.

Moxfyre wrote:

"As I've gotten to be a more agressive rider, I feel like I'd rather be a little more leaned forward."

I've gone through about three different handlebar and stem configurations.
I started out more erect than now; then I put myself quite down and forward; and now I ride somewhere in between.
The most down and forward position gave me the most speed and power, but I lost some ability to look around, and the down and forward position didn't work as well when I had to get out of the saddle.
I expect to keep refining my position over the years, especially as my body changes for the better and the worse.
I really appreciate cheap bike parts that let me experiment.
Thanks Nashbar and Performance!

I commute on a recumbent. It's comfy, fast, has a rack and paniers, a 16 inch wheel and a 26 inch wheel. The only thing it doesn't do well is big bumps in the road. It would be great for touring because it's so comfortable. I could ride it all day. I'm not some pot-bellied guy with a beard, or a person with injuries, either. Just a regular person. I love riding a recumbent. It's great. So there you go: a bike that's a commuter and a tourer.

Well I decided to just fit my mountain bike with some 700c wheels. I found they will fit, and nowhere near as tight as I thought it would be....I might even have room for fenders :)

How to find a pair of good 700c rims and disc hubs to build up a wheelset.


I figured it out by ghetto mounting a junk 700c road wheel I had to my mountain bike...the hub was way too narrow, but the fit was enough to see that it is feasable.

Check out REI.COM they have two bikes classified as touring , The Novara Safari (which I own) and the Novara Randonee They could not look much different. And now they have a new one that they call Novara Fusion, its the only one in the commuting section. It's like a cross of the other two with extras like fenders, internal generator hub, and a dashboard of a handlebar. While in China I saw a number of folding bicycles coming up to the 16th floor offices.

A commuting bike is one that you are comfortable enough in your circumstances to commute to work with it. Touring bikes often are better for carrying the laptop, change of clothes, lunch, office papers, oh and yes the coffee and newspaper.

Reviving a dormant question...

Is there really a market for a commuter specific bike? And if so, what's the ideal geometry and equipment?

I've been working in a bike shop for a while now, and no one seems to come in looking to buy a commuter... though we stock ones specifically built for this task. I see people commuting on full suspension mtbs, 15lb carbon roadies, single speeds, fixies both converted and production models like the pista, low end trek mountain bikes and comfort bikes, every kind of bike you can imagine... but I don't see anyone riding these bikes they sell as commuters.

Such as... Bianchi's Castro Valley... any owners out there? Seems like a dyno hub would be a good addition to a dedicated commuter... lighting without all the thinking about batteries. Also, myself, I like to commute on a bike with one gear, because the drivetrain needs less maintenance, and I'm gonna be riding the thing daily and not feeling like cleaning in the morning or at night.

Now that it's winter, I wish I had fenders on my fixie, because of the snow. I also wish I could fit that studded tire on the front. But for now, it offers the agility, speed and dependability I need to get there in all conditions at any pace... though I might get wet or fall over.

Of course, the days a use a bike with multiple gears, I get to the destination faster.

But I think first and foremost in a commuter, is that I don't want to have to maintain the thing to have it work acceptably. A bike that works when abused and unmaintained.

They made my Commuter/Touring bike in 1972.

T.J.