Classic & Vintage - Paint chips good and bad places on a frame

Ok i'm disgusted by the whole situation.

About one hour ago i more or less surrendered by the thought that my frame must undergo a respray

When i bought the bike there where loads of tiny spots of rust (i hate rust) around the lugs of the frame. About the worst places it can be imho.

So after removing the rust and primer it with the preval sprayer to get a evenly layer on it i went the next stet to send and get it as smooth as possible with sanding paper. This however proved to be near impossible. How impossible and the result of that proved when i had it painted in red. Like i was watching the skin of a orange. I blame it on the fact that due to the location of the former rust (on the edges of the lugs) it proves to be nearly impossible to do a good job of sanding and making the surface smooth.

So here i am.

I am very much for to keep the 1st paint however i don't know how to make a step forwards than doing the inevitable and that's a respray no matter how much i hate that.

Any advice is more than welcome

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z177/2yummy/Moser/IMG_5849.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z177/2yummy/Moser/IMG_5848.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z177/2yummy/Moser/IMG_5846.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z177/2yummy/Moser/IMG_5845.jpg

There's quite a bit of bare metal there, a respray is basically the only option. Unless you want terrible looking touch ups. I don't see any realistic way of painting those areas and blending them in with the old paint and making it look even half way decent.

That's exactly what i found out the hard-way, but than again i'm no painter at all.

Let alone that i know how to tackle this the best way keeping the 1st paint.

Strip it all and refinish, if you don't want a bodge job.

-Kurt

Sadly yes, but i fear this is the only thing left.

Sadly thought that this a moser with the 51.151 decals and those are not around.

It has 2 decals that are not included from cyclomono

Ah well why not my brain can handle a few more setbacks i guess ...

Another q'n being too late, but than again.

Is there a tip of how i should have tackled the problem in the 1st place with the rusty spots.

Is there a tip of how i should have tackled the problem in the 1st place with the rusty spots.

Take photos of the decals and have them reproduced before you strip and paint.

-Kurt

Is there a tip of how i should have tackled the problem in the 1st place with the rusty spots.

Yes, instead of taking a dremel or other abrasive tool to the rust (which likely greatly enlarged the area), treat small spots with a rust converter paint. OK, you will still need the dremel to expose the rust (if it is under paint), but there is no need to grind away. To me, beyond saving the original paint, the other huge benefit of minor treatment is it saves the original decal work.

And if all the rust is exposed to the surface, then treat chemically, which has been discussed 500 to 600 times already at length.

I really only do the spot treatment when there are a handful of small spots, otherwise, I do the chemical treatment. The big advantage of the chemical treatment is that it only attacks the rust, paint and decals survive fine, and it also attacks internal rust. But of course, rust under paint will need to get exposed first for the chemical treatment to work, so that again can mean careful use of a dremel.

I have a vintage MASI right now, it will get the full soak, as saving the original paint and decal work is too important to me.

There are several problems with abrasive rust removal. First, anything abrasive cannot tell the difference between what you want to keep (paint, decals, chrome) and what you want to get rid of (rust). Secondly, without a microscope, getting ALL the rust with abrasive attack is difficult. Any rust left behind will be back. Third, it turns a small spot of damage into a large spot with no paint.

If that was mine, I would sandblast it down to bare metal. Then I would use a high build primer, use several coats it should fill in all the rust pits. Paint then clear.

before you throw in the towel-

seriously just think if you could make look good as a 2-tone.

I have a simmilar dilemma and I am considering on how to mask it off and save the decals

before you throw in the towel-

seriously just think if you could make look good as a 2-tone.

I have a similar dilemma and I am considering on how to mask it off and save the decals

+10

There appears to be no shortage of bikes painted like this Tom Kellog example or where only the lugs and joints are sprayed/oversprayed a contrasting color to the tubes.

264501

Everybody thanks a lot for your advices and thoughts.

After reading it all my biggest issue is that even when all gets blasted the problem area's even then has to be taken care of.
So when it's needed than wouldn't it be possible to do it now while the paint is still there ....

I will send the pix to several painters to see what they have to say about it as i need some experts in the field to share there thoughts as this is way over my head to get a good result.

I'll keep you posted as i'm not the only one having this problem i'm sure.

Again thanks everybody for your thoughts and advice