Folding Bikes - swift folders

invisiblehand, thanks for the link. The FD clamp on that Birdy was custom made by Kataoka-san, whom I will email if I can find the current URL. At present, I plan to use a large hose clamp on a hacked 34.6 mm clamp, and when the position is optimized, a braze-on.


Hmmm, that sounds like an interesting idea. If you have time, I would be interested in the result regardless of success or failure. Good luck!

Anyone know of FD clamp for the Swift (steel version), or is a FD a braze-on deal?

I have a 5 year old steel frame and Peter said it was 32mm although I think he meant 31.8mm. Needs front derailleur clamp on.

Definitely not 40mm.

Hi All. I've been lurking here for a long time, and now I have some questions. I love the idea and looks of the Swift, and I'm trying to decide if I should pull the trigger. I don't know much about bikes, so bear with my stupid q's

I'm a commuter, either 6 or 14 miles each way, depending on whether I ride the whole distance or take the train. The ride is a flat straight shot (chicago's lakefront path). Right now, I do it on an old, light mtb with slicks. The whole ride takes me about an hour on the way there. A little longer at the end of the day.

1) Will the Swift be faster? I'm in decent but not superb shape and I'm tired of being blown past by people who look even less fit than I am, especially in stupid lakefront headwinds.
2) Not a dealbreaker, but can you put a rack and child seat on a swift?

The longer version of these questions has me going back and forth between the Swift and something like a Bianchi Castro Valley. I could probably get away without the fold, but the fold helps for a variety of reasons (not least is small storage space at home). I just don't want to feel like I'm paying a big speed penalty. Thanks for your advice.

I was riding both the Lakefront Trail and the Des Plaines River Trail (full length of both) last week on my Swift. I typically stay near ORD on Chicago trips, and take CTA trains into the Loop. Did so with the Swift... just fold it and carry it through the turnstiles, holding it over the turnstile spokes. Several pax on the train asked about the bike. I saw no other folders ... the Loop is a bikeshop desert. The only riders faster than me on the LF Trail were all-out roadies... no MTBs were faster. I was alone on the DPR Trail except for a few trail runners. So ... the Swift is the bike for the Windy City.

Racks: seatpost
Childseat: wouldn't try it

I have the 50mm ones (2.0"). I also have fenders too.

Thanks for your recommendation. I got the Big Apples, and they deliver a really plush ride. The bike, already stable for a folder, is now incredibly so. Suspension? Fuhgeddaboudit.

The Big Apples have the reflective stripe on the sidewall. I thought I saw some Big Apples on a full-size bike that did not have the reflective stripe, so this was a nice surprise.

While I was at it, I made another great upgrade -- 2 Salsa seatpost QRs. Expensive ($25/each), but worth it, IMO.

Hi there - thinking of a folder, and see more and more nice things about the Swift.... my question is this - did you get hit with any import charges on the way back from the States? I figure that a nice trip to NYC and WAshington would nearly pay for itself (!) if I got one of these things at source without import fees....

Cheers!

Sorry about the delayed reply - I've been travelling (sadly without the bike) for the last few weeks.

I got hammered by customs importing my Swift and paid about £180 in total I think...but with the decent dollar exchange, it was ok. and obviously Peter @ Swift didn't charge US sales tax.

Buying it out there would be ok, but obviously you would be 'breaking the law' if you bought it back into the UK and didn't pay sales tax.

If you do shipping, pay the extra and get Priority US Postal (insist on a tracking number(, or even better, use UPS, Fedex etc. - I don't rate the USPS service - my Swift was severely delayed, and I couldn't figure out where in the system it was (to be fair, this was probably a UK postal issue, because of the tax -but I couldn't 'find' the bike)...

Let us know how you get on.

Let us know how you get on.



Found out that there's a place in the netherland doing them!

By the way, for the people looking for the 40mm front derailer clamp ... here is the shop that sells them.

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.ikd21.co.jp/ikd/items/i170.html&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=6&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dbrompton%2Bderailer%26hl%3Den%26hs%3DjAt%26lr%3D%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official

What is the seat tube diameter for a Dahon Helios? Here is the link for the front derailer clamp for that bike.

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.ikd21.co.jp/ikd/items/i170.html&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=6&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dbrompton%2Bderailer%26hl%3Den%26hs%3DjAt%26lr%3D%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official

Alternate Handlebars?

Anyone have suggestions for different handlebars for the Xootr Swift, that can use the original grip shifter and brakes? I'm planning to do a century in a few weeks on my Swift, and I'd like to get some more hand / riding positions.

Alternate Handlebars?

Anyone have suggestions for different handlebars for the Xootr Swift, that can use the original grip shifter and brakes? I'm planning to do a century in a few weeks on my Swift, and I'd like to get some more hand / riding positions.

Here is Sheldon Brown's solution ...

http://www.sheldonbrown.org/raleigh-international/index.html

Yikes!! same as the Aluminum Swift... for lack of finding a 40mm clamp-on, I'd probably get a readily available 35mm(1 3/8") clamp-on and hog it out a little ..

Bruce

Now that I think about it, is this right? I could have sworn that there was an earlier post that wrote that the steel swift has a smaller seat tube that the aluminum version.

later edit --> I see that stargazer48 addressed this above. Maunakea ... is your seat tube 40mm?

Here is Sheldon Brown's solution ...

So, uh, I don't look like a big enough dork when I'm on a folding bike, is that the idea? :D

Unfortunately that won't work for me, as my handlepost is already crowded with 3rd party water bottle cages. Nowhere else to put the danged things on this bike....

I have a 5 year old steel frame and Peter said it was 32mm although I think he meant 31.8mm. Needs front derailleur clamp on.
Definitely not 40mm.

I had a friend using a caliper measure the seat tube and it is 32mm. Sorry Peter.

So, uh, I don't look like a big enough dork when I'm on a folding bike, is that the idea? :D

Unfortunately that won't work for me, as my handlepost is already crowded with 3rd party water bottle cages. Nowhere else to put the danged things on this bike....

Hah! Last I checked, no one cycles to be cool ... that is what motorcycles are for.

Did you see the hubbub bar-end mount for the shifter? That would avoid cluttering the handlepost.

Here is Sheldon Brown's solution ...

http://www.sheldonbrown.org/raleigh-international/index.html
I like the iPod remote control mounted next to the cyclocomp. That's funny.

OK, I've settled on a slightly more standard solution -- Ergon grips plus bar ends. I had to pick up a bigger handlebar to make it work, seems ok so far.

Next up is fussing with stem size and height. It seems like the best thing to try right now is raising and lowering the stem and maybe flipping it to experiment. Any recommendations on this process are appreciated.

I know this is probably going to sound idiotic but... Has anyone tried aero bars on a Swift / 20" wheeled bike? I doubt I'd go this route, but I am a bit curious as to whether they'd work.

I have the steel framed Swift with planet bike fenders and I finally replaced my marathon plus' with big apples tires. I have only ridden the bike 50 miles with them and can feel the difference.
Until April, I have only ridden road bikes with drop bars. Since the folder has a straight bar, I will need more hand positions as well so I probably will enventually try some bar ends. I did get a Nashbar stem extender for under $5 to extend my stem riser by 2". When I go out for a long ride I like to do at least 50 to 60 miles. I would love to average 80. maybe with the big apples I can.
Since this is my main bike now, I have ridden about 1900 miles since April.

Bacciagalupe, which Ergon grips and bar ends did you settle on? How long of a handle bar did you get?

Bacciagalupe, which Ergon grips and bar ends did you settle on? How long of a handle bar did you get?
I got my Ergons awhile ago and initially used 'em on my Dahon. I use the original ones (http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=4834&category=708) and cut the right grip down. Oddly enough, they seem to work a little better with a more upright position; on the Dahon the bars were 3" above the saddle, on the Swift they're even, so I assume I'm putting a little more weight on my hands now.

The bar & bar ends are both Nashbar brand, just the 580mm flat mountain bar and their bar ends. Maybe it's just my imagination but the handling feels a touch more solid now. I'll post pics at some point....

Finally... this one has been a long time in the making! When it finally arrived on Wednesday I was too busy to start work on it until Friday night. But then it flew together in a couple of hours.

The interesting bits:

Sturmey-Archer "Phoenix" 8 speed hub
Ti saddle
46 cm drop bars
DiaCompe 287-V levers for v-brakes
Home made twist shift adapter (like Sheldon Brown's HubBub, but it cost me $4 instead of $50!)
Primo Comet 406 * 1.5" kevlar tires, 100 psi


I chose the Sturmey Archer instead of the Nexus Redband 8 for several reasons, but one of the big ones is that direct drive is in 1st gear, and the 305% range goes above that. So when I'm struggling up the San Francisco hills, at least it's in the most efficient gear! And this also means that I can use a fairly normal size chainring, even with these small wheels. My 42/25 combination gives me a range of 31" - 96".

The hub was super-easy to set up, though the cable routing is not exactly ideal. It works very nicely too, and if there is any extra resistance compared to a derailleur setup I can't tell ;)

As for the shifter adapter, I just happened to notice that an old 7/8" quill stem fit perfectly inside my drop bars. So I cut it down to suit the length of the twist shift and bought a shorter bolt. I also made up a 0.75 mm shim using a PET bottle, since the quill stem was just a little smaller than the inner diameter of the shifter. I had intended to mount the shifter on the right bar, but when it arrived the shifter turned out to be asymmetrical - so I mounted it on the left. I'm left handed anyway, so it may even suit me better!

So do I like it? Well, on San Francisco's TERRIBLE roads the ride is bone-jarring! Seriously, there's more pot-hole than tarmac here :( But where's there's a small bit of smooth road, this bike can really fly. It feels stiff and I really like the handling. It's very light, and accelerates well. I'm really happy with the gear range so far, though I haven't put my rack on yet and tried it with a full load of shopping ;)

Lastly - big thanks to Peter Reich for building the wheels for me, and to James_swift for patiently answering questions and letting me have a little go on his Swift fixie!

Pictures - sorry about the messy & distracting background! I'll try to find a plain background and take some better ones, but no time today.

http://home.no/yangmusa/Swift/072506Swift.jpg
http://home.no/yangmusa/Swift/072506Swift_folded.jpg
http://home.no/yangmusa/Swift/072506Swift_rear_hub.jpg
http://home.no/yangmusa/Swift/072506Swift_shifter.jpg
http://home.no/yangmusa/Swift/072506stem_hubbub.jpg

Apologies for confusing the new Xootr Swift specs with the specs for the older steel frame. I had the specs for the Al Xootr Swift at hand from an email from Steve K at Xootr. According to Steve K, the new Al frames have a 40 mm seat post. I just did a rough (non-caliper) measurement of my steel Swift, a 2003, and it looks like 30 mm seat post OD, with a 27.4 mm saddle post.

Well it's about time! That's an awesome ride. The drivetrain looks totally tricked-out! I know that you've put a lot of planning and research into the bike for the longest time, and it shows. Well done!

If you think the bike is bone-jarring on 20x1.50 Comets, take that feeling and double it and you'll know what it's like to ride SF on the 20x1.35 version. ;)

BTW: how are the brake levers working for you?

Yang- nice looking bike. Nice to see I am not the only one going with an internal hub. The SA is a good hub even if not as smooth as the Nexus. I can't wait for the new SRAM 9spd to come out! You put a lot of thought into the build and it shows. This Swift thread is probably now the most popular thread in the folding forum. Amazing for a bike that doesn't receive much in the way of marketing out than by all of our word-of-mouth testimonies!

I hadn't ridden mine for a few days and took it out last night. I am always impressed by what a nice bike it is every time I swing my leg on it and go for a ride. It is one of the few things in my life that didn't become boring in short order. I must have ADD and my Swift is the antidote...

FYI- I just checked and at this point in time this thread has had the most views AND the most replies! Woo-hooooo!!! It should be like a party. Bruce, you bringing the cake? I'll bring the drinks. James maybe you can bring some appetizers or something. We'll all meet at Peter's place and surprise him. It could be cool to have a big Swift get together.

The SA is a good hub even if not as smooth as the Nexus.
Do you have personal experience with it? I tried to do my homework first, but could only find one lengthy review of the Phoenix hub (in Velovision) and that was quite complimentary. Apart from that I could just find "hear-say" on the web. An interesting snippet from the Velovision article is that Sturmey Archer have apparently constructed Phoenix in such a way that they relatively easily double the gears in the future - giving 16 speeds with a 610% range. Now that would be something!! (Wav: I hope I don't sound defensive; as I wrote I am impressed by the Phoenix and am happy that it does what I wanted. I'm just curious!)

The SRAM iMotion 9 speed does indeed look like a nice bit of kit. It's heavy though, I think the first version they will release weighs 2400 g with coaster brake (again, from Velovision). Contra the Sturmey, at 1400 g..

I have a SA 8 on one bike. I bought it after market. I didn't really care too much for the shifter though. Most people don't realize but you can even get trigger shifters for the Nexus 8spd.

In all reality I have adequate range on my Swift. I have the dual chainrings up front and coupled with the Nexus in the rear I have more than adequate gear range for about 99% of my riding.

When I bought the SA I didn't pay attention to what gear was the 1:1 ratio. Had I done that I wouldn't have bought it for that bike. My thought was to have the 1:1 ratio in the gear you will use the most. On the Swift and with the dual rings up front I have 2 good choices. I pretty much factor in how I plan to ride and then move the chain up front to the ring that will most likely keep me in 5th gear as much as possible on my ride.

I am rarely in first gear and usually not for long so the improved efficiency there wouldn't buy me much. However if you are in San Fran that might be a good selling point.

I think if more people tried the 8R25 Nexus, more people would buy internal hubs. It really is that good. I love being able to shift when stopped. The way it downshifts is better than almost any other bike I have except for one bike with Campy. Sure it's not the ultimate hub for a weight weenie but it is a great all around hub and has worked great for me.

A 16sp SA hub wouild definitely be of interest to me. I would like to see something to compete with the Rohloff but a greatly reduced price and something that is far quieter.

@yangmusa - very nice work.

I am starting to think that I will have to join the ranks of the Xootr club.

FYI- I just checked and at this point in time this thread has had the most views AND the most replies! Woo-hooooo!!! It should be like a party. Bruce, you bringing the cake? I'll bring the drinks. James maybe you can bring some appetizers or something. We'll all meet at Peter's place and surprise him. It could be cool to have a big Swift get together.

I'm in!!... Since location is everything, maybe rumored Swift owner (nothing confirmed due to no pics... haha) maunakea can extend us an invite to the islands... I'd love to take in some of that gorgeous scenery and bike those roads on my Swift..

Bruce

ps .. Yangmusa!! really nice job on yours.. maybe I'll get over across the Bay some weekend and the Swifties can go for a ride along the coast...

Here is my fixed gear xootr swift. I am using 451 rims (about 2 inches bigger than bmx ones) I got from bike friday. Rear hub is surly with axle swapped for a longer one. Front brakes are paul bmx ones. All else is fairly standard. Note: old style QR for handlepost is better than the stock ones.

Thats Awesome!!! Commander Taco I salute you, that is a great looking swift. The lines are so simple and clean. I hope you don't mind, but when I pick up my swift, I am going to use yours as a model to gain inspiration from.
How is the clearance with the 451 rims and tires? Any major modifications needed to run them?

Thats Awesome!!! Commander Taco I salute you, that is a great looking swift. The lines are so simple and clean. I hope you don't mind, but when I pick up my swift, I am going to use yours as a model to gain inspiration from.
How is the clearance with the 451 rims and tires? Any major modifications needed to run them?

Thanks! There is no issue with 451 rims and tire clearance. The biggest tire I could get was comet 1-3/8 (from bike friday), and there is tons of clearance. Stock brakes dont' work. I used paul brakes with pads setup high enough to be in line with the rim. This reduces leverage at the brake pad, but it is mitigated by using a brake lever meant for canti/caliper brake (not v-brake). v-brake levers pull a lot of cable and therefore have less leverage at the lever. Brakes work great, lots of stopping power. There is another option as well. You could use long reach caliper brake. Here is what Peter Reich wrote to me:

> On the aluminum frames, 451s will fit both front and
> rear, but you need an
> extremely long-reach rear caliper- I can't find a
> releable source, but you might
> have better luck. Front will just barely work with
> a 68mm Shimano, so you
> can only do a brakeless rear/fixed 451 with
> off-the-shelf components.
>
> The new steel one will work with 68mm calipers front
> and rear.
>

p.s. I measured the rear reach on my alu swift. A 68mm caliper should work.

Hey Commander Taco - sweet looking bike!!

It's hard to tell from the photo - is your bike a silver Swift with the stickers removed, or have you stripped the paint completely? As has been commented previously, the paint quality is not great. After only a week of fairly light use the paint has almost as many scratches as my 30 year old Raleigh ;) (Ok, a slight exaggeration, but not much...)

One of the reasons I went with the Swift and not the Xootr painted (Swift) is mine is powdercoated. No problem with that finish so far. When I saw the Xootrs in the shop I was concerned enough to go with the powder coating even though I really liked the silver.

On CT's bike it sure looks like the bare aluminum color and not the silver it comes in. A little polishing and it could be an almost mirror finish. I'm thinking bare aluminum due to the "splotchiness" of the finish and what appear to be oil prints from possibly gripping it.

CT: very nice! I like the riser bars.

Nothing like the clean lines of a fixed Swift.

Broke the 2k mile mark on my Swift...

One of the reasons I went with the Swift and not the Xootr painted (Swift) is mine is powdercoated. No problem with that finish so far. When I saw the Xootrs in the shop I was concerned enough to go with the powder coating even though I really liked the silver.

On CT's bike it sure looks like the bare aluminum color and not the silver it comes in. A little polishing and it could be an almost mirror finish. I'm thinking bare aluminum due to the "splotchiness" of the finish and what appear to be oil prints from possibly gripping it.

Wav and yangmusa, your guesses are close. Mine is silver xootr swift. I didn't like the decals, so I tried to peel them off. But it left a gaping hole in the clearcoat. I then started to peel off all the clearcoat from the entire main tube. It was a mistake. It felt easy until I got to the edges and near the seat tube, where the silver paint started to come off leaving bare metal. I then tried to remove silver paint from the rest of the main tube but it did'nt come out uniformly. At this point I got fed up. I smeared some touch up paint to cover up the splotches and then applied a coat of clear enamel (another bad idea). Enamel is shiny but it is not as uniform and hard as original clearcoat. All in all, the top tube looks hedious. I removed the decal from the seat tube and that was a disaster as well. I will eventually get the whole frame powdercoated. I was in favor of buying a frame directly from Peter but he ran out of frames and I was not willing to wait 2 months. In retrospect I should have waited. Now I am left with all these parts I don't need (anyone looking for unused swift wheelset, tires, brakes, derailers, shifter, levers, cassette, handlebar, crank, anything, send me an email).

CT: very nice! I like the riser bars.

Nothing like the clean lines of a fixed Swift.

Thanks James. I am very impressed with the ride quality of Swift, esp. after a bad experience with Dahon (handlepost and seatpost flexed too much for my comfort). This thread has been very helpful in making my decision.

IMO the most amazing thing about the Swift is the complete lack of tuck-under. On my other 20s (Dahon and DT), I have to have constant vigilance if I am out of the saddle ... but on the Swift, I can enjoy the climb.

Dumb question: What's 'tuck-under'?

The tendency of the front wheel to deflect sharply to the R or L, or tuck under, the bike, when the rider "stands" on the pedals (aka "dancing" or "out of the saddle").

Oooohhhhh .... I get it! Thanks!

Creaks & groans...

I find the joint between the headset and the riser creaks and groans quite loud. Especially bad when I'm climbing or hammering out of the saddle, but even riding over a rough road (ie. anywhere in SF ;) ) it makes noise.

I think I've set it up right: I have the quick-release on the front side, and it's tightened pretty much as tight as it's going to go.

Any good ideas?

Thanks, Magnus

(PS - apart from that I'm still enjoying my new bike enormously!)

I thought the creaking on my Bike Friday also came from the headset and stem. Turns out it was the seatmast hinge area. Perhaps tightening the quick-releases holding your seatpost may do it?

Creaks & groans...

I find the joint between the headset and the riser creaks and groans quite loud. Especially bad when I'm climbing or hammering out of the saddle, but even riding over a rough road (ie. anywhere in SF ;) ) it makes noise.

I think I've set it up right: I have the quick-release on the front side, and it's tightened pretty much as tight as it's going to go.

Any good ideas?

Thanks, Magnus

(PS - apart from that I'm still enjoying my new bike enormously!)

I had this problem as well (though admittedly not of out of the box). Try removing the riser and tightening the headset. Mine had worked its way pretty loose, courtesy of all the potholes around town, no doubt.

hello folks. my debut here.

I am crazy about the wonderful swift-folders and I am going to buy one.
I like the slick black look of the Brooklyn-Swifts and would rather go for the steel-swift for my project.
My plan is to use classic 70-ies campagnolo-parts to build a nifty retro-race-style bike. Also I would like to use the classic breaks, front and rear, but I fear that is not possible with the original frame and fork. Is it? (I Think I found some pictures of customized swifts in the net using a race-bike break in the front, but I am not sure as the pictures where blurry)

Also I would like to ask you friendly folks here, if you see any other problems fitting retro italian bottom-bracket, head-set, crank, hubs? Bottom-bracket and headset will most probably not fit, right?
Any suggestions here? I really want to get the retro-look.

Also I intend to use a set of track-bike hubs and switch the rear weel, according to requrements, to one fitted with a classic sturmey archer "racing" gear-hub. I guess that will work great with the swift frame.
Does somebody use a setup like this?

Thank you all.

z.

http://www.tsetse.cc/ebay/woodburn0271.jpg

This is sort of what I want to do with the swift. (I am aware that the pic shows a moulton)

ebay: 150015467148 US $689,00 final bidding for a used steel swift-folder with Titanium seatpost and Nexus gear-box. :( cool bike.

I thought the creaking on my Bike Friday also came from the headset and stem. Turns out it was the seatmast hinge area. Perhaps tightening the quick-releases holding your seatpost may do it?
I'll check that - I'm tall, so the seatpost is looooong. I've noticed that sound carries really well in the frame, like the brake cables slapping the main tube will make the whole frame go GOING! Still, I really suspect the riser joint, because when I consciously flex the bars with my hands it also makes a noise. Of course, I'm sitting in the saddle at the time, so the force could equally well make the seatpost creak..



Try removing the riser and tightening the headset.
I can't say I've noticed any play in the headset, but I'll ask someone with more know-how!

Thanks :)

I thought the creaking on my Bike Friday also came from the headset and stem. Turns out it was the seatmast hinge area. Perhaps tightening the quick-releases holding your seatpost may do it?

Same here. I simply greased the quick-release ends and also put a bit of grease at the point of contact where the 2 halves of the seat tube meet.

Big THANK YOU to the various suggestions!

I sprayed silicone lubricant on the seatpost and tightened the quick-releases. I also put silicone lube on the front riser stub. Hey presto! No more squeaking! It makes a big psychological difference, the bike feels much better to ride without the chorus of squeaks and groans ;)

(I wasn't very scientific, since I did all 3 at once to save time. Hence, I don't really know what was causing the noise. For my money, it might have been the quick-releases. The lower one is a little awkward to get to and was probably looser than it ought to have been. But hey, silicone lube was only $4 and now all my closet doors fly open too!!)