Folding Bikes - swift folders

those wheels look big.

I'm here to pump you up!!!
Stop being such a girlyman and carry a full sized Zefal or Topeak frame pump. Nothing pumps as well, other than a floor pump or one that runs on electricity. You can also use one to wack dogs should that be neccessary. A tiny pump is almost as useless as no pump! And.......don't start whining about how much extra weight you'll be carrying! Don't eat that extra cookie and stop drinking so many mochas!:D ;) :beer:

hahaha - OK! wasn't actually planning on carrying the pump every day but didnt want one too bulky to fit in my bag for those times I wanted to. As you may know (this being the Swift folder thread) a conventional frame pump does not fit the Swift frame. So it's not about weight... heck just hoist my courier bag and you'll see..

I do plan to buy a floor pump for home use those few times when my shop compressor isn't an option.

PS - whack MY dog with a pump you may lose your arm at the elbow. He's got jaws like a crocodile. If you see him coming I urge ya to just start spinning those pedals as hard as you can.

those wheels look big.

That bike has the larger 451(?) mm rims and tires wedged into it. Look closely at the fork Y, it's been clearance cut to fit them.

oh Swift Fixie Jedi Masters -

Peter Riech wrote me back... " I'd go with a Sugino 103mm bb and R48 crankset when the time
comes."

Others here have recommended a 107mm BB, so can someone clarify why these might differ?

Is an R48 crankset a Sugino product, or is that a generic size specification?

Thanks for kind answers to stupid questions.

hahaha - OK! wasn't actually planning on carrying the pump every day but didnt want one too bulky to fit in my bag for those times I wanted to. As you may know (this being the Swift folder thread) a conventional frame pump does not fit the Swift frame. So it's not about weight... heck just hoist my courier bag and you'll see..

I do plan to buy a floor pump for home use those few times when my shop compressor isn't an option.

PS - whack MY dog with a pump you may lose your arm at the elbow. He's got jaws like a crocodile. If you see him coming I urge ya to just start spinning those pedals as hard as you can.

Yea......thats the one flaw with the otherwise perfect Swift design but what about putting a pump on top of the top (and only) tube? It seems the only place long enough. I purchased a Blackburn telescoping pump for my recumbent and it mounts on waterbottle mounts and seems fairly easy to get my 26x1.4" rear tire pumped plus its fairly compact when not opened up. I am probably going to be confronting this subject myself when I get my steel Swift. Still looking at a couple of options though......Bike Friday or a Swift, I go back and forth. Then a fine Raleigh20 became available to me that I can customize so I am perplexed to say the least. I've looked at several bikes and test rode a couple so I am convinced the folding 20" wheel format is both practical and a good ride. :o

That bike has the larger 451(?) mm rims and tires wedged into it

Specs say thus:

...'requiring same-size wheels, minimum diameter 55 centimeters (22-inches)

So bigger even than 451s... Snug fit eh?

hahaha - OK! wasn't actually planning on carrying the pump every day but didnt want one too bulky to fit in my bag for those times I wanted to. As you may know (this being the Swift folder thread) a conventional frame pump does not fit the Swift frame. So it's not about weight... heck just hoist my courier bag and you'll see..

I do plan to buy a floor pump for home use those few times when my shop compressor isn't an option.

PS - whack MY dog with a pump you may lose your arm at the elbow. He's got jaws like a crocodile. If you see him coming I urge ya to just start spinning those pedals as hard as you can.

Here's a pump mounted on my bike pictured on the Xootr Site (http://www.xootr.com/xootr/swift/images/galleryphotos/bottle-pump.jpg)... I used a Minoura clamp... also, my dog Fred doesn't much care for being whacked either...

Not to hijack the thread but I'm crazy about my dawg. Here's a shot of him... no that's not my rig he's riding in.

hahaha - OK! wasn't actually planning on carrying the pump every day but didnt want one too bulky to fit in my bag for those times I wanted to. As you may know (this being the Swift folder thread) a conventional frame pump does not fit the Swift frame. So it's not about weight... heck just hoist my courier bag and you'll see..

I took two REI 12" velcro straps and attached my Peak Masterblaster to the backside of the seat tube. It won't drop through--the bottom bracket provides just enough lip to assure that when the straps are snug. It's out of the way and doesn't affect the fold.

They're bigger than 451. I'm running 451's on my Swift and I have plenty of clearance

I took two REI 12" velcro straps and attached my Peak Masterblaster to the backside of the seat tube. It won't drop through--the bottom bracket provides just enough lip to assure that when the straps are snug. It's out of the way and doesn't affect the fold.

Nice. Velcro is the wonder tool of the century! You mean the seat post below the fold break, right?

I have been commuting on my Swift. So far so good! But it's a bit disheartening when a crusty guy with holes in his pants passes me and pulls away on a Wal Mart mountain bike. I'm pedaling along pretty good in a high or highest gear too. Are the 20" wheel bikes just less capable of top speed? I expected it would be able to at least keep up with 26" wheel bikes.

Maybe I need to pedal faster... or smoke more meth...

These Nitto B-105 (http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=75_128_129&products_id=204) drop bars are neato...

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p15/suntoryjim/swift/p39_bike.jpg

These Nitto B-105 (http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=75_128_129&products_id=204) drop bars are neato...


James make up your mind! :D

I see you still have grips and the brake lever mounted up high.

Hey tech question for ya-
if a 103mm BB or a 107mm BB will both work to put my Swifts Surly hub fixie chainline within 1 mm L or R of perfect center alignment, then a 105mm will get it centered perfectly? Hmm... searching web... looks like the rub is finding a 105mm BB that is affordable. Ah so.

Looks like I'll be shimming something.

My rims and Surly hubs are ordered. I plan to replace my BB when I fit the new wheels. Any reason to replace the crankset at the same time? The stock Xootr crankset and chainring seem nice enough.

James make up your mind! :D

I see you still have grips and the brake lever mounted up high.

Hey tech question for ya-
if a 103mm BB or a 107mm BB will both work to put my Swifts Surly hub fixie chainline within 1 mm L or R of perfect center alignment, then a 105mm will get it centered perfectly? Hmm... searching web... looks like the rub is finding a 105mm BB that is affordable. Ah so.

Looks like I'll be shimming something.

My rims and Surly hubs are ordered. I plan to replace my BB when I fit the new wheels. Any reason to replace the crankset at the same time? The stock Xootr crankset and chainring seem nice enough.

I can't help myself...it's so dang easy to trick-out the Swift with different handlebar configurations. :p

The thing about BBs...you gotta beware of the assymetrical ones...you know, where a 107mm is actually a 105 with 2mm added to the non-drive side. For example, a 107mm assymetrical BB is the same length drive-side as a 105mm. So you're not losing spindle length on the side that counts. You get the idea. Search the web for specs on your particular BB of choice.

Plan on ending-up with several BB's until you find the one that brings joy. The golden chainline, I've found, is sometimes a hit-or-miss process.

So I assume you got the 130mm Surly NewRoad flip-flop hub with the 47.5mm chainline? Where did you order your wheelset from? I would work with the stock Tracer crankset for now, put some mileage in and get your money's worth out of it, then upgrade to a sweet Sugino set (http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=188_193&products_id=1366) (which is what I plan to do).

Here is an affordable BB (http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=602) in to use until you upgrade to a Sugino crank/BB.

Search the web for specs on your particular BB of choice. Plan on ending-up with several BB's until you find the one that brings joy. The golden chainline, I've found, is sometimes a hit-or-miss process.... So I assume you got the 130mm Surly NewRoad flip-flop hub with the 47.5mm chainline?
Well, you've confused me. ;) I'm not looking at asymmetrical BB's, just the Sugino RD-48 and the Shimano 107mm UN series options. I know the width of my rear forks (132.5). Once my Surly shows up I'll know the hubs actual chain line measurement. Hopefully it's between 47-49mm, which I can get close to matching with a 103 BB or a 107 BB.... I think? :o

Once I know the actual chain line - shouldnt I be able to get the BB correct on the first try?


Where did you order your wheelset from?
I don't know where the parts are coming from. My buddy who is a careful hobbyist wheel builder (and a fixed gear racer) is ordering the parts thru a friend's shop... I just asked for a Surly 130mm 32h flip-flop in polished finish, and a pair of Sun CR-18s also in polished. He'll build my wheels with stainless spokes. He has no 406 wheel experience but I totally trust him to get it right.

Well, you've confused me. ;) I'm not looking at asymmetrical BB's, just the Sugino RD-48 and the Shimano 107mm UN series options.

Once I know the actual chain line - shouldnt I be able to get the BB correct on the first try?


I only put that info out there 'cuz I was lazy to do the research. Here's the actual dirt on the Shimano UN-series:

103mm: symmetrical
107mm: symmetrical
110mm: asymmetrical, non-drive side 3mm longer

I only put that info out there 'cuz I was lazy to do the research. Here's the actual dirt on the Shimano UN-series:
103mm: symmetrical
107mm: symmetrical
110mm: asymmetrical, non-drive side 3mm longer

ah I wondered what you were up to.

hey I forget to mention that based on your advice (IIRC) I asked for a Dura Ace or other quieter 14T 3/32" cog instead of the Surly cog.

Realizing I havent broken any new ground here but am standing in the footprints of others, my thanks to you and all who are being so helpful.

I went and swapped my Crank Brothers Mini Pro pump for the Topeak Road Morph G. It was about $12 more but wow what a difference. I easily pumped the tires right up to 90 lbs. The gauge is a little vague and harder to read but everything else is GREAT. It even comes with a clamp that looks like it could be made to work on the Swift. If nothing else the clamp can be flipped around and used as removable mount (on any 22mm tubing, ie handlebars) for some oddball custom accessory (like an iPod... or a GPS...). :)

I also picked up an OnGuard brand U-lock. The small version, so I could carry it in my hip pocket or tucked into my belt. It's size is a compromise. It is barely big enough to use on the aluminum Swifts. To lock it to parking meters it has to go thru the rear stays or around the vertical frame seat tube. It won't fit around the main spar and a parking meter post both at the same time. Back on the plus side, it came with 5 keys and is coated in thick rubber.

Nashbar sells their cartridge square taper BB from time to time for ~$5-10. Not right now though.. They've had a recent lack of inexpensive parts in many categories.

Nice. Velcro is the wonder tool of the century! You mean the seat post below the fold break, right?

I have been commuting on my Swift. So far so good! But it's a bit disheartening when a crusty guy with holes in his pants passes me and pulls away on a Wal Mart mountain bike. I'm pedaling along pretty good in a high or highest gear too. Are the 20" wheel bikes just less capable of top speed? I expected it would be able to at least keep up with 26" wheel bikes.

Maybe I need to pedal faster... or smoke more meth...

You might be surprised that some of those old fat guys riding walmart bikes are fast for several reasons:
1. Its their only transportation so they ride alot!
2. They have big strong legs and are therefore fast!
3. They might be what is known as a "sleeper" (a fast retired athelete) riding a cheap bike.
4. They are just a naturally fast rider.
5. You are not pedaling hard enough.:D
6. You may have been tired.:rolleyes:
7. He only had been riding for a short time and was rested.:eek:

In order to ride fast, you have to ride fast alot!:o ;)

Remember its not about the bike!

... It is barely big enough to use on the aluminum Swifts. ...

You can always fold, then lock. Makes a much less attractive target.

You might be surprised that some of those old fat guys riding walmart bikes are fast for several reasons: SNIP

I got a big kick out of your reply, CV! :)
but gotta point out uh...that the dumpster diver who passed me was not that old or that fat. But neither am I...

Some reasons why my Swift may not be as fast as I hoped:
6) 100 psi tires only pumped up halfway to ease posterior pain
5) carnitas super burrito from lunch compressing my diaphragm so can't fully utilize lungs
4) knees chanting "40 is NOT the new 30" to help keep wrists awake
3) inverse saddle time to couch time ratio
2) courier bag holding 36 pounds of bike lock, allen wrenches, unread books and removed clothing
1) huge grin on rider's face is highly non-aerodynamic :D

Nice. Velcro is the wonder tool of the century! You mean the seat post below the fold break, right?

And inexpensive.

Yes, below the fold break. The total length of the pump is about a 1/4 inch less than the distance between the break quick release to the top of the bottom bracket. It's completely out of the way.

I got a big kick out of your reply, CV! :)
but gotta point out uh...that the dumpster diver who passed me was not that old or that fat. But neither am I...

Some reasons why my Swift may not be as fast as I hoped:
6) 100 psi tires only pumped up halfway to ease posterior pain
5) carnitas super burrito from lunch compressing my diaphragm so can't fully utilize lungs
4) knees chanting "40 is NOT the new 30" to help keep wrists awake
3) inverse saddle time to couch time ratio
2) courier bag holding 36 pounds of bike lock, allen wrenches, unread books and removed clothing
1) huge grin on rider's face is highly non-aerodynamic :D

Thats awsome, especially the burrito comment!:D

As a birthday gift, my wife went ahead and ordered me a silver xootr swift (xxl) It should be here early next week. I'll be counting the days, that's for sure. I plan on riding it in stock form for a while, but upgrades/additions will come eventually. Besides a saddle swap, is there anything you all would recommend changing early on?

As for proposed upgrades in the future, this is what I had in mind.
Drop bars
Sti brifter for the 105 or ultegra rr derailer
New wheels built up w/ fewer spokes.
Higher psi tires w/ light tubes.
Maybe a new chainring.

Well, my imagination is getting the best of me right now. I still have to get the bike first. I hope to see a big brown truck pull up in the next week. Until then, I will scan over this thread, again. And thank you all for giving such rave reviews on this bike. Without them I may not have ever considered the purchase.

The STI's won't work with the V brakes (assuming you mean Dual-Control Levers for drop bars), need to change the V's for canti's (or possibly mini-V's) and with canti's you need somewhere to fix hangers for the cable (possibly on the front stem, not sure about the back). I have the same quandry with an Airnimal Joey I'm thinking about, want drop bars and sti's, nowhere to fit hangers, mini-V's might work I guess. Anyone have direct experience of this?

The STI's won't work with the V brakes (assuming you mean Dual-Control Levers for drop bars), need to change the V's for canti's (or possibly mini-V's) and with canti's you need somewhere to fix hangers for the cable (possibly on the front stem, not sure about the back). I have the same quandry with an Airnimal Joey I'm thinking about, want drop bars and sti's, nowhere to fit hangers, mini-V's might work I guess. Anyone have direct experience of this?

This is what I've done with my silver swift. The front cable hanger clamps around the stem riser as low as it will go, and the rear hangs from the upper binder bolt. The LBS said the rear was made for a Surly.

One thing to watch is the heel clearance on the rear. I ended up using an old set of diacompes as the new shimano cantis stuck out too far.

Last week I took delivery of a new set of velocity wheels - 20 spoke front and 24 rear velocity fusion rims and sealed bearing hubs. The shallow well in the rims means that mounting tyres is a real pain, but the bike has really grown wings.

My mods so far:

3ttt forma bars with original stem
Brooks swift saddle
Time seatpost
Cantilever brakes (shimano front, Diacompe rear)
Campy ergo brake levers (shift mechinism removed)
Ultegra rear gear mech
dura ace 10sp bar end shifter
11-23 10 speed cassette
speedplay pedals
dura ace crank
cheap, heavy 113mm bb
53 tooth chainring
chain guide clamped to seatpost (put together from odds and ends at the local fastener store)
wipperman chain
Velocity wheels
Conti sport contact front tyre (406 x 28)
Primo Comet rear tyre (406 x 37)
schwalbe presta valve inner tubes
biddon cage cable tied to rear of seat post.

Hi, I wanted to thank all of you that have posted on this thread. I've been lurking here for weeks and as a result ordered a Swift Frameset from Peter. It's a great bicycle; I'm completely satisfied with the way it rides and handles. It cost $390.00 plus shipping for those of you that might be interested in the cost of building one up yourself.

I wanted to use as many parts as possible from my parts bin and a spare road bike I had. The only items I had to buy were hubs, spokes, rims, brakes and cassette. I robbed my Dahon Helios of it's crankset and tires temporarily so I could ride it but I've since bought tires and installed a crankset from my parts bin. It's really nice that so many common parts are usable on the Swift.

I was able to use the Ultegra short cage rear deraileur off the road bike with the 11-32 cassette and it shifts without any issuses. This is nice because the short cage keeps the chain a little further from the ground.

Not so lucky with the Tektro BX3 brakes that were suggested as a solution to using drop bars and I would not recommend them except possibly on the rear and then only if you don't want to use fenders. The brakes don't have enough stopping power and the brake lever bottoms out on the handlebar when coming down a steep hill. The cable interferes with a fender and there's no way to fine tune the cable adjustment without resorting to an in-line adjuster. Tire removal is difficult as a result. I'm going to try traditional cantilevers next.

Thanks again everyone for the great information on this thread!

Hi, I wanted to thank all of you that have posted on this thread. I've been lurking here for weeks and as a result ordered a Swift Frameset from Peter. It's a great bicycle; I'm completely satisfied with the way it rides and handles. It cost $390.00 plus shipping for those of you that might be

Nihonic, what did the basic frameset include? And do you have a feel for the folded size of the bike with the wheels removed and the stem/seat tube removed? (can it fit into a large samsonite oyster or F'lite case)?

PS - no one has used travelAgents to work with STIs? They're a bit clunky, but I've used them before with success on a cyclocross bike. Then no issues with finding a hanger for the cable.

edit- found good description of swift (needs hinge disassembly for suitcase): http://www.phred.org/~alex/bikes/bf-vs-swift.html

Jasong,

I have a travel agent on my Raleigh Twenty's rear V-brake so that I can get more stopping power with my Sora Brifters. It works like a charm. I don't get quite as much stopping power on my Twenty compared to my Road bike (with road brakes), but it's much better than it was, and I trust the brakes on downhills. I didn't need one on my front brakes, for whatever reason,

Juan

The frameset included the two piece frame and bolt, fork, seatpost, stem extension and three quick releases.
After I built it it up I took it apart and it only takes a few minutes. Some have reported the bolt that holds the frame together is SAE but mine is metric, 4mm allen and 10mm socket works. The LBS here in Tokyo had a generic bag that measures 60cm x 68cm x 29 cm that was displayed with a Birdy in it and the Swift fits easily into it with both wheels removed. I can also fit it into the bag with the rear wheel attached but not as nicely.

This is what I've done with my silver swift....

My mods so far:

3ttt forma bars with original stem
Brooks swift saddle
Time seatpost
Cantilever brakes (shimano front, Diacompe rear)
Campy ergo brake levers (shift mechinism removed)
Ultegra rear gear mech
dura ace 10sp bar end shifter
11-23 10 speed cassette
speedplay pedals
dura ace crank
cheap, heavy 113mm bb
53 tooth chainring
chain guide clamped to seatpost (put together from odds and ends at the local fastener store)
wipperman chain
Velocity wheels
Conti sport contact front tyre (406 x 28)
Primo Comet rear tyre (406 x 37)
schwalbe presta valve inner tubes
biddon cage cable tied to rear of seat post.

Steveonbike, sound cool, howabout some photos? :)

So, using sti style brifters can actually work? But with travel agents? What are travel agents? Does someone have a link to a site that sells them?
I know I have seen pictures of swifts on here with road levers.

So, using sti style brifters can actually work? But with travel agents? What are travel agents? Does someone have a link to a site that sells them?


Google: travel agent adapter (nashbar/quality bicucle (ie airbomb/aebike))

Steveonbike, sound cool, howabout some photos? :)

OK, Will try and borrow a camera.

I managed to pry the conti sport contact onto the rear last night. Three tyre levers and a lot of swearing!

Cheers

Steve

[QUOTE=nihonric] Not so lucky with the Tektro BX3 brakes that were suggested as a solution to using drop bars and I would not recommend them except possibly on the rear and then only if you don't want to use fenders. The brakes don't have enough stopping power and the brake lever bottoms out on the handlebar when coming down a steep hill. The cable interferes with a fender and there's no way to fine tune the cable adjustment without resorting to an in-line adjuster. Tire removal is difficult as a result. I'm going to try traditional cantilevers next.
[QUOTE]

Are the tektro's that you tried the mini v brakes? Or are they the long reach dual pivot caliper brakes?

After reading through the entire thread again, I thought I had a better idea of what route to take with my swift. I was still hoping to use brifters, with the mini v brakes, but if you're still not getting enough stopping power with those (if those are the brakes you're reffering to) , I will go with the 287V levers and the stock v brakes w/ a bar end shifter.

I assume the bar end shifter is still indexed, but since I have no experience with them, can someone claify that for me.

[QUOTE=nihonric] Not so lucky with the Tektro BX3 brakes that were suggested as a solution to using drop bars and I would not recommend them except possibly on the rear and then only if you don't want to use fenders. The brakes don't have enough stopping power and the brake lever bottoms out on the handlebar when coming down a steep hill. The cable interferes with a fender and there's no way to fine tune the cable adjustment without resorting to an in-line adjuster. Tire removal is difficult as a result. I'm going to try traditional cantilevers next.
[QUOTE]

Are the tektro's that you tried the mini v brakes? Or are they the long reach dual pivot caliper brakes?

After reading through the entire thread again, I thought I had a better idea of what route to take with my swift. I was still hoping to use brifters, with the mini v brakes, but if you're still not getting enough stopping power with those (if those are the brakes you're reffering to) , I will go with the 287V levers and the stock v brakes w/ a bar end shifter.

I assume the bar end shifter is still indexed, but since I have no experience with them, can someone claify that for me.

I'm using PRoblem solvers' travel agents on both my road bike and swift, they work fine. You just have to dial them in. The problem with the 406 tires and the swift frame is you need a REALLY long reach brake. This was explained by Peter Reich as a compromise so you could get nice fat tires and/or fenders. The other option is to go w/ longish reach brakes and a 451mm wheelset. Obviously the simpler route would be to purchase a couple of travel agents.

So I just got my silver swift!! This bike looks way better in person. Pictures really don't do it justice. I can't wait to ride it. I'd be riding now, but I don't have an allen wrench to tighten down the stem. Bummer. One question, is there supposed to be a cap on top of the stem? There's some plastic stuff in there, looks like a star nut, but I don't see a cap anywhere in the box.
Anyway, I can't wait to go for a spin soon.

Big Boy Phil,
The brakes were the Mini BMX and they are "V" brakes. They're noticably shorter than regular "V" brakes. The initial grab feels good on flat ground at low speed but the levers don't pull enough cable so, they bottomed out on the handlebar. I had them adjusted as close to the rims as possible too.

I installed Shimano cantilevers a few days ago but only had time to ride around the block a few times. So far they feel much better and no heel strike but I'll write back in few days to confirm.

I had to get a 25.4mm stem to go with my new Nitto drops. I found this Truvativ XR stem in the length I needed, and it was on closeout for $9.99 (http://bicyclewarehouse.com/itemdetails.cfm?catalogId=39&id=8237)! :)

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p15/suntoryjim/swift/stem-2.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p15/suntoryjim/swift/stem-1.jpg

I wailed on this stem hammering out of the saddle up varying grades of hills with absolutely no flex.

Does anybody know if they make a titanium seatpost and/or steerer for the Aluminium Swift?

It's weight-weenie time...

Does anybody know if they make a titanium seatpost and/or steerer for the Aluminium Swift?

It's weight-weenie time...

Actually a Ti seatpost is a good idea for several reasons and nothing to do with weight. I wish I had a line on one for you but I'd contact the dudes that make the steel Swift in Oregon.

Actually a Ti seatpost is a good idea for several reasons and nothing to do with weight. I wish I had a line on one for you but I'd contact the dudes that make the steel Swift in Oregon.

I want one - so whoever calls and asks, let us all know what you find. Otherwise I am gonna talk to my local ti fabricator buddy. If I use him, it may not be beautiful but it will be sturdy.

I thought Peter Reich made titanium seat posts, no? I'm pretty sure he at least used to. I'm not interested in one myself, but I thought I'd mention him as a possible source. Contact info (http://www.swiftfolder.com/contact.html)

hi guys. i'm a somewhat serious roadie (not a racer though). who wants to get a portable bike to put some road miles on while i'm traveling. seems like the swift xootr is definitely up to the task from a performance perspective but i was curious about the ability to pack the bike in a regulation suitcase for airtravel. any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

thanks.

jeff

I installed Shimano BR550 cantilevers a few days ago and there's a night and day difference between these and the mini Vs. When I rode with my regular shoes I never hit the rear brake with my heels. On a longer ride with SPDs I managed to get heel strike a few times but it wasn't a big deal and I guess it's because there's a lot of float in the cleats.

My frameset was delivered from Peter Reich in March and I also bought a Zootr for friends and family to use when they visit. There's a difference in the frames. The Zootr seat tube diameter is 4mm smaller and seatstay diameter is 1mm smaller.

On the Zootr site they claim 9.9 kilograms; my stock Zootr weighs 10.9.

I want one - so whoever calls and asks, let us all know what you find. Otherwise I am gonna talk to my local ti fabricator buddy. If I use him, it may not be beautiful but it will be sturdy.

You might try

http://www.xacd.com.cn/

which is where several people in the forums have had bicycles made. They do custom jobs, and even with the shipping/etc. you might come ahead.

OK, so can someone be so kind as to give me a quick summary on switching an 8-gear Swift from flat bars to drop bars?

I don't have any parts around, so I assume I'd need to get a set of drop bars, some tape, and brifters, presumably 8-speed STI's. Will older / 8-speed 105 STI's work? Will only certain shifters work with the SRAM SX 4 derailleur (1:1)? Do I need to change the brakes?

And how good of wrenching skills do I need to swap the stuff out? I can do some things like disassemble the bike, tweak the brakes etc without any major problems.

Bacc: do you have vbrakes on that? Then you'll need travel agents to change the cable pull. Don't forget new stem to clamp onto 26.0 instead of 25.4. Not a hard mod, if you haven't done it it'll be good experience. Yeah, you'll need to switch rear derailleur to shimano cable pull style from the ESPs.

The 2001 AtoB magazine review lists Titanium seatposts at $95. I'm pretty sure they'd still be available, and just as sure that the price would have gone up since then.

http://www.nycewheels.com/swift-folding-bike-review.html
(just do a Ctrl-F for "titanium")