Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Link to a cheap coaster brake wheel?

i remember someone posted a link a few weeks ago, but i cant find it in the search function. i remember it being pretty cheap...

nevermind, found it... http://www.nycbikes.com/item.php?item_id=353

Is this wheel considered to be any good? I'm considering buying one for my commuter. Is the hub 130mm spacing?

Is the hub 130mm spacing?

Almost every coaster brake hub is spaced for 110mm. However, it's very common for them to have rather long axles. My old mtb, spaced 135mm, has a single speed no-name coaster brake hub, with extra axle nuts and a washer used as spacers, and a rather long axle. Works fine as mostly a commuting/light trail bike.

Thanks shecky.

I have one of these for Test Bike and so far so good. Before putting the thing on you may want to tighten up the cones a bit and try to find an old hinged seatpost clamp for the arm. Dia-comp used to make them years ago.

Are you riding around in all sorts of weather on this wheel? How's it take salt and slush? Not like DC has that much but Boston's conditions would be a good proving ground!

What do they mean by "simplicity of a Fixed gear" in the description. Fixed? I don't get it? I was just thinking that I would love to have something like that for my SS cyclocross bike se4t up.

I just bought one of these last week from NYC Bikes (Spokes and Strings is the name of the actual shop in Brooklyn) and put it on an old Schwinn Conti. over the weekend. Here are the specs as best as I could figure:

- The axle is about 165mm (so there is some room to play).
- 110mm from inside nut to inside nut (Does that make sense?)

Like I said, I put this on an old Schwinn steel frame and had to crank down pretty hard to get the thing in and, once I did, my chain line was all kinds of wrong. I took it to my LBS and picked up an extra nut that took up some of the extra room and gave me a decent chain line.

As for the quality ... hmmm ... it looks a little flimsy to me - esp. the arm. I'm not too worried because the bike is for short, fun runs anyway. I would say you get what you pay for - and a rear wheel with cog for $65 isn't much - but you might be able to score a decent (and bomb proof) old school coaster hub on e-bay and build up a good wheel for not much more. I just didn't want to invest the time.

Good luck and let us know what you come up with.

ill be in brooklyn this weekend anyway so might as well check it out. id much rather ride a SS with a coaster brake rather than a freewheel and brakes. whenever i ride a freewheel, i forget that its not fixed and it freaks me out when i need to brake quick. "Simplicity of a Fixed gear?" riding a coaster brake bike is much like a fixed gear because its a single speed and action of braking is similar (although not quite as good on the coaster).

I ride it everyday now since I bought it and besides the first day when I didn't adjust the cones it has been a solid performer. It's by no means the greatest hub I have ever had but it works.

Solid performer works for me.

rim is on the narrow side, imho, 25mm tires at best i bet. I inquired, which is why i didnt buy one.

Anyone have any experience with the Shimano (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=36144&item=7128845235&rd=1) coaster brake hub E type?

Want a cheap coaster brake? Buy a old Huffy and rip one off of it.

Want a cheap coaster brake? Buy a old Huffy and rip one off of it.
or "liberate"... :D

Anyone have any experience with the Shimano (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=36144&item=7128845235&rd=1) coaster brake hub E type?

Both of the HiStop and Shimano Coaster brakes are made by Kun Teng (KT) In China. While I'm not a fan of these brakes, there is no reason to believe that they can't provide a long (ish) and useful life if maintained. I would clean and regrease them yearly (assuming they're not seeing heavy use). I would also keep an eye on the cone adjustment.

It is really easy to over tighten the bearings. With the wheel secured in the drops (and the chain in place) grab the rim along the leading and trailing edges and move the wheel back and forth while looking at the cog. I like seeing just the hint of movement in the cog. These hubs are alot more forgiving of a slightly loose cone than an overtightened one. Obviously, too loose will be a problem too.

If you live in a hilly area, I would recommend a front brake too. Coaster brakes can and will get really really hot when applied for any length of time.

Besides that, congrats to anyone using a coaster brake, I love them and that's all I'm riding now.

Take care...

Jim

It is really easy to over tighten the bearings. With the wheel secured in the drops (and the chain in place) grab the rim along the leading and trailing edges and move the wheel back and forth while looking at the cog. I like seeing just the hint of movement in the cog. These hubs are alot more forgiving of a slightly loose cone than an overtightened one. Obviously, too loose will be a problem too.

If you live in a hilly area, I would recommend a front brake too. Coaster brakes can and will get really really hot when applied for any length of time.

Besides that, congrats to anyone using a coaster brake, I love them and that's all I'm riding now.

Take care...

Jim

Thanks for the tips ... and the props. Your advice led me to search out some more info on my new wheel. I found this from the ... ahem ... helpful people at Park Tools: http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/coaster.shtml. It seems useful to me but I'd be interested in any comments the more mechanically experienced among us might have.

(Nothing against Park Tools ... I just always feel a little weird about pointing folks to corporate sponsored sites.)

The Parktool site is pretty good. The hub shown is a generic Shimano/KT-type.

The Shimano hub on ebay is fine. Before using it, I'd probably regrease it. Don't be stingy with the grease. Everything on the insides needs liberal grease application. I use black moly grease. I suspect any high temp grease will suffice. Once that's done, you're golden.

Keep in mind that a properly adjusted hub will feel "stiff" when turned by hand (though it shouldn't "catch" the way tight bearings will). Particularly when new. This is due to at least a couple of factors, the "loose" brake shoes and the clutch spring/clip. In use, the effect is not really noticable.