Classic and Vintage Bicycles: What's it Worth? Appraisals and Inquiries - Schwinn Passage

http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/bik/3206146952.html

Looks like a 1994 or so....I'm waiting for a call back from the guy, but it looks like a great deal for $100. Any opinions? Everything I google sounds positive about this bike.

Fair deal at $100, but I would offer $75. Seat will need to be replaced. On the plus side, that looks like a Blackburn rack, which is usually worth at least $20.

Looks like an 86 to me: http://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1981_1990/1986Ltwt17.html

I think it's a great deal at $100. I sold an 86 Voyageur frameset for $90 on craigslist a while back. The Voyageur was higher end than the Passage but the frame I had was a huge 25" size in fair condition. If you're looking for a touring bike I'd jump on that Passage before someone else does.

I got it...$90. It's a bit dirty, guy never really rode it, and besides that, it's in pretty good condition.

My initial hope is to flip it after cleaning it up and maybe some new cables. My first question, is how to use the serial # to determine exactly the year?

Edit: and of course, google is my friend. Next to the badge it's stamped 2117, which seems to indicate July 30, 1987.

Question: what is this loop thing? Both wheels have them, but I have no idea what they are other than they seem intended to "scrape" the wheel. Any help here?
267495

Serial # is L619316 and also there's another number on the bottom of case: 840.
Other than that, some quick, shaky phone cam pics.
267497267498267499267500267501

They are indeed intended to scrape the wheel. The idea is to scrape off bits of glass or other debris that could work into the tire and cause a flat. Some people swear by them, but I have no personal experience.

+1

They're called "tire savers" or "flint catchers"...

http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=25c86a1a-7d72-4996-a232-fa4547b14fef&Enum=103

L6 in the serial number is November 1986, and that's the manufacture date of the frame. The four digit date code on the head badge is the assembly date of the bike.

+1

They're called "tire savers" or "flint catchers"...

http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=25c86a1a-7d72-4996-a232-fa4547b14fef&Enum=103

L6 in the serial number is November 1986, and that's the manufacture date of the frame. The four digit date code on the head badge is the assembly date of the bike.

Flint catchers eh...learn something new all the time..thanks.

Also the serial/assembly. Where did you find this info? I googled all over and found nothing talking about the L6 date for these type of bikes. Is this bike an american bike...built in Mississippi?

Overall, I cleaned up the bike and it looks pretty good. Not a speck of rust, just some normal grime and cobwebs. It's got some nicks which look consistent with bike racks, but nothing of real concern.

Can't wait to get out tomorrow and give it a spin around the block and shake it down. My main idea was to try and flip it (a quick search of forums and CL show this bike going $200-$300) but I may just fall in love with it instead.

I believe it was made in Japan based on the serial number, but an article in one of the 1985 Schwinn dealer newsletters indicated the 1986 Passage would be one of seven lightweight models to be built in Greenville, so there's conflicting info.

From Schwinn Bulletin 23, "Schwinn Bicycle Identification Numbers":

Bicycles from Japan have a production month letter in either the first or second position and a production year number in the other (first or second) position. Examples J677123 = September, 1976, 6J77123 = September, 1976.

A=January, B=February, C=March, D=April, E=May, F=June, G=July, H=August, I=Not Used, J=September, K=October, L=November, M=December

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d7/k4drd/Bicycles/Schwinn%20Publ%20Pages/1985GreenvilleLtwtProduction.jpg

1986 Passage is quite nice, excellent score. Be thankful it is not a 1994 (I just picked up a 1995). By the 1990s, the Passage was pretty basic, nothing special for sure.

The 1980s Passage was a really nice bike in comparison.

As far as serial numbers, even though Schwinns had some usable serial numbers, I don't bother. Instead, I just read the date code off the headbadge, takes two seconds to date a Schwinn. I wish other mfrs did this.

Although the 1986 lightweight catalog showed the Passage, the 1987 catalog did not. If 2117 was stamped into the headbadge, I suspect it was mis-stamped.

I have the same bike. It is one step down from the voyagour of 1986. I would say it is easily worth $250+. I would say it stacks up well against the Trek 520 of the mid 1980's.

Although the 1986 lightweight catalog showed the Passage, the 1987 catalog did not. If 2117 was stamped into the headbadge, I suspect it was mis-stamped.

I noticed the same thing from looking at the catalogs. However, I also noticed the 1986 model didn't come in the color that mine is (Imperial Rose?), but the 1987 Voyageur does. I wonder if they had the extra frames and just decided to paint them up with the Voyageur color?

I noticed the same thing from looking at the catalogs. However, I also noticed the 1986 model didn't come in the color that mine is (Imperial Rose?), but the 1987 Voyageur does. I wonder if they had the extra frames and just decided to paint them up with the Voyageur color?

That wouldn't surprise me.

I noticed the same thing from looking at the catalogs. However, I also noticed the 1986 model didn't come in the color that mine is (Imperial Rose?), but the 1987 Voyageur does. I wonder if they had the extra frames and just decided to paint them up with the Voyageur color?

Mine is the rose color as well and I assumed the same thing, that I got a Voyageur in disguise. One intesting thing about mine is the 5 speed freewheel on a 1987 bike. The geometry is also a little strange with a fairly short top tube for the length of the seat tube. The bike has a full complement of braze ons, including three bottle cages. I rode mine to work today and will post the serail number when I get home.

Mine is the rose color as well and I assumed the same thing, that I got a Voyageur in disguise. One intesting thing about mine is the 5 speed freewheel on a 1987 bike. The geometry is also a little strange with a fairly short top tube for the length of the seat tube. The bike has a full complement of braze ons, including three bottle cages. I rode mine to work today and will post the serail number when I get home.

From what I've read, the geometry being short like that is normal for this bike. I'm guessing that being a touring bike, you generally want to sit more upright. The guy I bought it from had the bars angled very low; I upped them a bit to what seems a more normal position.

I do think, unfortunately, the bike is too large for me. I'm 5'9", and have to lower the seat all the way to get my legs set correctly. The tube measures 23" and I probably need 21" or even 19". So....I'm gonna ride it a few days, but as much as I want to keep it, I have the feeling it's gonna wind up on CL this weekend. Make a little profit hopefully and keep looking for one that fits.

I do think, unfortunately, the bike is too large for me. I'm 5'9", and have to lower the seat all the way to get my legs set correctly. The tube measures 23" and I probably need 21" or even 19". So....I'm gonna ride it a few days, but as much as I want to keep it, I have the feeling it's gonna wind up on CL this weekend. Make a little profit hopefully and keep looking for one that fits.

Wow, you must have short legs. What's your inseam? I'm also 5' 9" and have ridden frames as large as 25" without issue. But I fit best on a 22" seat tube.

Wow, you must have short legs. What's your inseam? I'm also 5' 9" and have ridden frames as large as 25" without issue. But I fit best on a 22" seat tube.

I'm like 5'9" on a good day in shoes. I measured my inseam at 32". The standover on this bike is 32.5", and it's *just* a tad too high.

However, I finally got the seat adjusted just right, and with the bars being adjusted upwards, it's much better and probably rideable. I'm gonna take it out for a 10-12 mile tour off the town and see how it feels. I'll try to take a few pics along the way. It cleaned up pretty good and really is in great shape for a 25yr old bike.

The pedals on this bike are SP SR-250 - LINK (http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=311CB3FA-EE98-4DD4-B8D2-85261C0E488F&Enum=109&AbsPos=9) shows in detail.

Are these supposed to have some sort of toe clips or straps? Some searching isn't turning up much for me.

They are. I have a pair from a Trek 310 and they came with plastic cages and nylon straps.

I noticed the same thing from looking at the catalogs. However, I also noticed the 1986 model didn't come in the color that mine is (Imperial Rose?), but the 1987 Voyageur does. I wonder if they had the extra frames and just decided to paint them up with the Voyageur color?

Catalogs are just a snapshot of time, I have a lot of Schwinns that did not show up in the regular catalog, like my two February 1987 Prologues for example (Prologue did not appear until 1988). Catalogs are a great starting point, but do not represent everything made for sure.

Although the 1986 lightweight catalog showed the Passage, the 1987 catalog did not. If 2117 was stamped into the headbadge, I suspect it was mis-stamped.

My rose colored passage is stamped 3257 - 325th day of 1987.

My rose colored passage is stamped 3257 - 325th day of 1987.

So much for my theory. :)

Well, I've got a dilemma. Rode just around the city roads tonight, and my initial thought is to just keep the bike. I've been wanting a road bike for a couple months now (I also have a cheap Xmart Schwinn MTB that I picked up for a song, just to see if I would get back into riding) and despite maybe being too large, after adjusting it to fit me it actually seems pretty good. I just need to be careful not to "rack" myself on the top tube when stopping. Hopefully the weather is nicer tomorrow and I can get out on the country roads and do some real riding and get a better idea of what it's like. But after riding that heavy MTB around, even with road tires on it, this bike is like a dream.

My real goal is to just ditch my car eventually, and this bike seems like a good balance between a utility/commuter that I need and the road bike that I want when I just go out riding. With the rack already there, I can eventually get some panniers as well. It really seems perfect.

But, is the fact that it seems too big going to bite me eventually? Should I just flip it and put that money towards another, maybe purer road bike that fits me better? And if I do flip it, is $250 or so a decent asking price (I know market will ultimately determine that)?

If you can sit astride the bike with both feet flat on the ground without your crotch touching the top tube, you can safely ride it. A more important question is whether the top tube is too long for you, but since the TT on the Passage - a touring frame - is shorter for the frame size than it would be for a racing frame you probably won't feel too stretched out.

I'd ride it for a while and work up to some 40 or 50 mile rides and see how you feel.

If you can sit astride the bike with both feet flat on the ground without your crotch touching the top tube, you can safely ride it. A more important question is whether the top tube is too long for you, but since the TT on the Passage - a touring frame - is shorter for the frame size than it would be for a racing frame you probably won't feel too stretched out.

I'd ride it for a while and work up to some 40 or 50 mile rides and see how you feel.

That's the thing, I can't...it's a nut-squisher. But the TT seems ok, my arms are slightly bent and feels fine.

That's the thing, I can't...it's a nut-squisher. But the TT seems ok, my arms are slightly bent and feels fine.

Maybe you should consider a slightly longer stem and larger barset.

I'm 5'9 as well and I think I have the same size Passage. I also ride a Trek 500 and a Sekai 2400 in similar size and find each is different. I am just touching the top bar on the passage (30" pants inseam) and the seat is just a couple inches over the bar. When riding it is a really nice ride, very stable no hands type touring bike. I would ride it as you can always flip later. It is very hard to find a real touring bike (cantilevers and 3 bottle cages) for reasonable $'s.

I wouldn't ditch the car, cycling all the time to work isn't always feasible depending on weather, after work commitments, bike broken down, etc.

Those Schwinn Passages were fantastic bikes; if it fits and you like it then why flip it? Those bikes are not exactly easy to come by and you got it for great price. The Tennax frame was a great frame, though a tad heavy due to having to support the weight and rigors of touring, but still a great frame at least equal to anything out there today for touring purposes.

Ok, so then say I'm going to keep it...is it possible to get the correct pedal cages/straps for it? After some looking it seems you can only buy new pedals and not just straps...but I'm surely wrong about that.

Ok, so then say I'm going to keep it...is it possible to get the correct pedal cages/straps for it? After some looking it seems you can only buy new pedals and not just straps...but I'm surely wrong about that.

If you want the original style quill pedals with straps and clips you can still buy those and get then new or NOS. MKS Sylvan makes some really nice ones including a beautiful copper cage and body set that cost only about $45 a pair...not real high end as far as weight and bearing smoothness but plenty adequate. You can even get copper colored bottle cages from Tanaka. It's a great look for those with Brooks B17 seats that have the copper rivets.

Here is a site with a bunch of quill style pedals: http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/index.php?resultpage=2&category=113

Otherwise if you want the original specd pedals go to E-bay and you can find them NOS or NIB if you look long enough. The original pedals were SR SP-250 that were alloy semi platform pedals.

Thank you for the info rekeyata.

I'm keeping it. I put my crappy MTB up on CR with a high-ish but fair price, and it sold in an hour(for full price no less), so I'm kinda devoted now.

Besides the pedals, I think I need some new brake pads. Since it was stored for so long w/o being ridden, the rubber is like a rock and stopping power is lacking, at best. The marking on the brakes say "Dia-Compte", any idea where I can find some new ones to replace them?

And a big thanks to all in the C&V...I've learned a lot and have somewhat converted from a person who thought I needed to get a carbon fiber superbike to an appreciation of the older, yet still worthwhile bikes.

Oh...and another question. These are 27" tires, what kind of tubes do I need? I know....27" tubes is the answer, but are they readily available at my LBS or Walmart, or do I need to head to Amazon or somewhere and order some now before I need one?

First on the brake pad issue, try rubbing the braking surface with an emery pad first and get the top micro layer off and see how they work. If that fails then go to your LBS and see if they have pads or know where to get them, I would have to see the pads to know what your's are. I think Kool Stop makes the Salmon pad that will fit those brakes.

The cool thing about 27" tires is that 700c tubes fit as long as they have schrader valves. Again your LBS will know that and steer you to the right size. You can use a presta valve tube but you would have to purchase a grommet that fits into the schrader valve hole opening in the rim to convert it to presta; not a big deal since the grommets only cost about a $1 or so for a pair; see: http://www.amazon.com/Schrader-Presta-Rubber-Rim-Hole-Adaptor/dp/B000XNZU1S

And 27" inch tires are not an issue but there are more cheap quality tires then good ones in that size. The best quality tire for the money is the Pararacer Pasela TG, this is a very nice tire designed for commuting and light to medium touring with excellent flat protection and cost about $30; see: http://www.amazon.com/Panaracer-Pasela-Guard-Bicycle-27x1-1/dp/B001G0QXSG/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1345179114&sr=1-1&keywords=panaracer+pasela+tg I use those on my 85 Schwinn Le Tour Luxe. You can get even nicer touring tires made for heavy touring but their more expensive and weigh at least twice as much but will last a long time with superior flat protection, these are called Schwalbe Marathon.

This might be a good time to move the conversation over to the main C&V forum, where it will get more attention. Oh, they will expect new photos :)

Nice score Bahnzo!